the city is well fortified, and boasts a spacious bay.

We reached Malta on Tuesday, October 29. Here again are immense military fortifications, among the most extensive in the world. We found that our time was too limited for us to visit the bay where Paul was wrecked, but we had a good opportunity of seeing the town of Valetta and some of the objects of interest it contains.

One of the most important of these is the cathedral of St. John. The exterior of the building is plain, but the interior is profusely decorated with the most elaborate carving and gilding. There were also some fine marble and bronze statues of the ancient knights of Malta. We afterwards visited the governor's palace. Proceeding through King Alfred's court, we ascended a flight of stairs and entered a spacious corridor, the floor was composed of rich marble mosaic, wrought in the most beautiful designs, and exquisitely polished; the ceiling corresponded in magnificence; while on either side were ranged numerous busts and military trophies. We also entered several rooms to see the tapestry and furniture, for which the palace is famous.

From the time we left Malta till we came in sight of the low sandy shore of Alexandria, no land was visible, and few incidents occurred worthy of note; but as we were rapidly approaching Egypt, and had not yet heard what was to be the method of our conveyance through that country, this gave rise to various conjectures. At the time we left England the most extravagant accounts of the overflow of the Nile had been circulated, and up to the present time no certain information had been gained as to the extent of the damage done, or whether the repairs had been executed, we only knew that some parts of the railway had been washed away, so that when we reached Alexandria we were in utter ignorance of the time or manner of our future progress.

We landed early on the morning of Saturday, November 2nd, amid

such a tumult of shouting, yelling, struggling, and fighting, as I had never witnessed. It appears that whenever the overland passengers reach the place, scores of donkey boys with their donkeys assemble at the pier, and as every boy is eager that his own donkey should be taken, and is not afraid of using either his voice or his stick, some idea may be formed of the uproar that ensues. I had made arrangements with some friends to accompany them to the Hotel de Europe, but lost sight of them almost immediately on landing. I took the first opportunity of jumping into an omnibus provided by the company, taking care that it was bound for the proper hotel, and made my way thither as quickly as possible.

Our first care now was to secure apartments, dispose of our luggage, and ascertain the time of departure for Cairo. The time stated was seven o'clock in the evening, so that we had the greater part of the day before us. While arrangements were being made for visiting the objects of interest in this ancient city, I took my stand on the balcony of the hotel, where I could overlook the great square, the most important part of the city. Here a scene presented itself which I shall not easily forget. The square is very large, and is surrounded by buildings, many of which are very elegant, and all are limewashed a yellowish white, so that they are very dazzling to the eyes as the sun glares upon them. Through this square were passing and repassing people of all nations, in every variety of costume, and of every shade of colour, from the fairest Saxon lady to the coal black Nubian; one of the latter especially attracted attention, he was said to be one of the Pasha's eunuchs, he wore a black satin dress, and his face was actually as black as the dress he wore.

Here I saw the peculiar dress of the Egyptian ladies. The first lady that attracted my attention rode past on a donkey, she wore a large black silk cloak, having a hood for the head, so that her whole person was

enveloped in it with the exception, of the face, over this she wore a thick white veil suspended by a brass ornament from the hood of the cloak, in such a manner that it left only a pair of little holes for the eyes to peep through. Long strings of camels were patiently carrying heavy loads of merchandize, while now and then an Arab waterman might be seen carrying on his back a goatskin full of water, or else with the muzzle in his hand, and with a movement of his body at the same time making an outlet for the water he dexterously scattered it on the streets to lay the dust; this I afterwards found to be the common way of watering the streets.

Immediately after we had taken lunch I was again attracted to the balcony by what seemed to me the most dreadful cries and shrieks; | here another very characteristic scene presented itself; the donkey boys who had been unusually troublesome were rapidly dispersing as a fierce-looking Turk belaboured them right and left with a terrible instrument, apparently a cowhide, some four feet long, about as thick at one end as a broomstail, and tapering to about the thickness of a little finger at the other, it was also very flexible. This is the way in which justice is administered.

113

rubbish; the one that is prostrato was some years ago presented to the English Government by Mehemet Ali, but was not thought worth the cost of removing to England. It would be a very valuable addition to our antiquities. The cost was estimated at £15,000. The one that is standing is seven-and-a-half feet wide at the base, and seventy feet high. It is covered on three sides with hieroglyphics, and is said to bear the name of Thothmes III, one of the Pharoahs who oppressed the Israelites. It had more than almost anything I saw the tranquil look of antiquity about it. I could willingly have sat for hours musing at its base, and grieved that it had no tongue to tell me of the strange scenes it had witnessed in the many centuries of its history.

We also saw some of the ruins of ancient Alexandria, the emporium of ancient commerce, and the seat of ancient learning, the home of some of the most illustrious Christian fathers, and the hot-bed of schisms and heresies. The ruins may still be seen of the ancient library destroyed by the Saracens, said to have contained 700,000 volumes. It is related that when Omru, at the bead of the Saracens, took the city, he wrote to Omar, his royal master, to ask what should be done with the books; the caliph replied, "If these books of the Greeks agree with the Koran-the Koran is sufficient with

be preserved; if they disagree, they are pernicious and ought to be destroyed. Let them be burnt." They were distributed for the purpose of heating the baths, and in six months were consumed.

In addition to the palace we visited the catacombs, Pompey's pillar, and Cleopatra's needles. I was most interested with the latter, they consist of two obelisks, cach a single block of red granite, of these one is standing erect, the other lies prostrate, and is almost covered with

We left Alexandria about the time appointed, and travelled by railway twelve or fourteen miles, when we alighted, and were shown the way to the Mahmoudi canal, a quarter of a mile away. Savage-looking Arabs, with swarthy skins and uncombed hair, ran on before to light us with pine splinter torches; it was now late at night, and the ground seemed half-alive with lizards, frogs, and bloodsuckers, their croaking was

anything but agreeable, and we were in danger every moment of treading upon them.

When we reached the canal we found that there was only one small river steamer waiting to receive us ; this vessel contained two general cabins, one for the ladies and the other for the gentlemen. I made my way into the latter to stow away the little luggage I had brought with me, and then returned on deck to see the vessel leave the shore, this was a work of some time, owing to the rudeness of the apparatus employed. When we were fairly off, I returned to the cabin to ascertain more exactly the extent of accommodation afforded, but I had seen all, there was not a single berth for sleeping in, so that our prospects for the night were rather gloomy; cushioned seats ran along either side of the cabin, and a long table stood in the middle. I took a position on one of the former, placed my carpet-bag for a pillow, and being weary with the excitement of the day, laid myself down to sleep; just as I was about to realize that bappy state, I was roused by a polite request to make more room, I immediately complied by sitting upright, the only possible way. As I looked around a curious scene presented itself; every foot of room that was available was occupied; gentlemen had spread their rugs on the table and under it; the seats were both crowded, and the floor was literally covered by would be sleepers. Sleep was now to me an impossibility, for we were not only inconveniently crowded, but what I had before been too weary to observe, I now found most exciting. The canal is narrow for such vessels as the one we were occupying, and there were many other crafts plying in the opposite direction, so that great care was requisite in passing them; the Arab boatmen had no other way of signaling than by means of their voices, answering each other from the opposite ends of the vessel with the most peculiar intonations, and at the top of their voices, while every boat, great and small, was greeted as it passed by a long shrill whistle from the

engine. There was moreover the trampling of feet on the deck overhead, where many of the passengers were spending the night, as well as the constant hum of the mosquitoes, ravenous for their evening meal, nor were other creatures wanting of similar propensities, and even less agrecable name.

At three o'clock in the morning we emerged from the canal by means of a lock and entered the river Nile, this was a work of some nicety and occasioned more than a repitition of all the former hubbub; and as my confidence in the Arab officers of the vessel was but limited, I was not a little relieved when it was brought to a successful issue. I then returned to my former quarters and made a new attempt to sleep; this time with better success. Iwas awakened by cries for towels and water, and soon began to make other unwelcome discoveries; for the whole of the gentlemen on board only two washing basins had been provided, so that it was long before it came to my turn, and when it did I found that all the towels had been used up, but the Arab attendant, as a mark of favour showed me the corner of a clean one he had in his bosom, offering me the use of it for sixpence, but I had previously discovered a tolerably clean duster in a corner, and having all an Englishman's hatred of being imposed upon, I declined his hospitality, and used the duster, while à Roman catholic priest, a Portugese, who had washed without taking any precaution, stood by looking aghast with face and hands all dripping with wet.

We were now on the waters of the Nile, and I shall never forget the scene of almost fairy loveliness that presented itself, at times we gained glimpses of the pathless desert extending as far as the eye could reach, but for the most part our view was bounded by the beautiful valley of the Nile, decked with topes of graceful palms and stately acacias; there were fields of sugar canes and many other crops whose names I did not know; vegetation seemed to luxuriate, while here and there we

saw the Arab villages with flat-roofed houses, lofty minarets, and whitedomed mausoleums of the Shieks. But we were soon reminded of other things; since we had left Alexandria we had tasted nothing, and as the Arabs were in no hurry to prepare breakfast, by the time it was actually upon the table we were ready to do full justice to it; but this is not saying much, the viands were so ill prepared, that it was with difficulty, even then, that we partook of any; the meat was so tough and hard that I saw a gentleman try in vain to carve a turkey, the rice prepared for curry was so dark that nobody touched it, while a strong smell of garlic pervaded everything; for my own part I took a slice of bread, and after carefully removing the finger marks with a knife, ate it with a small piece of cheese which I purified in like manner. I had hitherto been able to obtain good water, and had much anticipated the privilege of tasting the 'sweet waters of the Nile' but I found them to abound with so many living, active, and happy little creatures, that I thought it mercy to refrain, so I purchased a bottle of Allsopp's paie ale, though for several years I had abstained from taking intoxicating drinks.

The vessel, however, made good speed and we were begining to forget our troubles in the enchanting scenes through which we passed, and the innumerable and intensely interesting associations connected with them; when a little before three o'clock in the afternoon a paddle-wheel broke, we happened to be near a village, so drew up to it while the wheel was repaired. Here I had an opportunity of seeing more distinctly the character of their village, and in this case, as in some others, found that it was distance lent enchantment to the view." All the men came clustering about us, while only two women came, and they stood gazing at us from a distance. One of the youths was perfectly destitute of clothing. The men brought us sugar-canes from a field hard by; while just opposite was an apparatus for irrigating the

115

land. I noticed this particularly, it consisted in the first place, of a horizontal wheel turned by a bullock, this communicated with another wheel which worked perpendicularly, the axle of the latter, being connected with a third, the lower part of which was in the water of the river; to the rim of this earthen jars were attached in such a manner that when the wheel revolved they were filled in the river, and safely carried the water up, emptying themselves in a trough provided for the purpose, afterwards running along a channel between two small embankments of soil, which it is easy to open any. where and thus 'water with the foot.' Deut. xi. 10.

The damage sustained to the paddle-wheel was not very serious, and happily was soon repaired, but we had not been on our way more than half-an-hour when we fairly ran aground. With the air, however, of people who have made up their minds to expect the worst, we sat quite still, there were no expressions of surprise, and scarcely any inquiries, nothing apparently but the most stoical indifference. About nine o'clock at night we reached Grand Cairo; found comfortable accommodation at Shephard's Hotel, and soon retired to rest. On the following morning it was announced that we should have two day's stoppage here, owing to the delay of the Marseilles passengers. This was grateful news to all; we were so fatigued with our previous journey, and its attendant privations, that we really needed rest, and there were so many strange and interesting objects to engage our attention, that the time could not fail to be profitably spent. Facilities for going out were close at hand, and in a short time we made up a party of three, a Swedish gentleman, an English clergyman, and myself; we gaged a Coptish dragoman, or guide, professedly a christian, and as soon as we showed our heads outside the door, a crowd of donkey boys made a rush, shouting as they did so, "Hea gentlemen, dis very good donkey, go like a steamer. Hea, hea!"

en

We secured one for our guide, and one each for ourselves, and then sallied forth. We found them very fine creatures, full of spirit, and in every respect very different from those in England. I especially admired a large white one, which was peculiarly graceful in all its movements, our only difficulty with them was not in urging them on, but in holding them back, as they seemed determined to race away as fast as they could gallop. We first went to the mosque of Mehemet Ali; as we entered the outer court, we were requested to put over our own shoes some cloth ones, provided for the purpose. I had previously heard that the Mahommedans considered their places of worship so sacred, that no one was allowed to enter without taking off his shoes, but those I saw here, evidently entertained no such exalted views, indeed I could not help contrasting their levity and apparent indifference with the state of my own mind. I was actually awed by the scene of magnificence that opened upon me; in front there

as

a spacious court, in the centre of which an alabastar fountain played, a colonnade surrounded it, supported by massive marble columns; turning to the left we entered the interior of the mosque, but I will not presume to attempt a description. The carving, gilding, and all the ornamentation are superb; the very walls of the interior are of exquisitely polished Egyptian alabastar. It was six years in building, and cost more than a million sterling. I sighed as I left the place, musing on the myriads of immortal souls fatally misled by the wiles of the false prophet. I had on my way met crowds of these deluded creatures on their pilgrimage to his idolatrous shrine

From the mosque, we went to the citadel, which is only a few yards distant, this commands a fine view of the city, and a wide expanse of country beyond. A few miles away, and in full view on the left, stood the mighty pyramids, the wonder of many ages past, and promising to continue so for many

yet to come. On the right the ancient land of Goshen lay. The Father of waters' pursues his stately course through the valley he himself has beautified; while far away-far as the eye could reachlay the boundless deserts of Lybia and Arabia. I could not help reflecting on the different feelings, the same scenes had excited in the minds of the Jews thousands of years ago, when they were sojourners in this strange land, but everything was to me so strange, and appeared so plainly to bear the stamp of hoar antiqu ty upon it, that I should have been but little more surprised if I had actually found myself in the company of the patriarchs, or witnessing the heavy toil of the Hebrews, as they tried in vain to satisfy the demands of their cruel Egyptian taskmasters.

Immediately at our feet lay the city, like one mass of flat roofs, with surrounding parapets, balconies, domes, and towering minarets, while hard by where we stood was the very spot where the Mamelukes were slain.

He after

The Mamelukes as is well known, were originally slaves, but succeeded in gaining the supreme power, and had governed the country for many years previous to the appointment of Mehemet Ali as Pasha. wards gained their confidence, and by their means made himself independent of the Sultan. But Mehemet now began to fear the Mamelukes, and devised a plan for their extermination, he prepared a great banquet at the citadel, and invited all the Mamelukes to attend; 500 mounted on their best steeds accepted his hospitality. The banquet was over, and they rose to depart, when the dreadful command was given to kill; they rushed to the gates but found them closed, and all, with one solitary exception were slain. The Mameluke who escaped, leaped through a breach in the wall, down a frightful precipice, the horse was killed, but the rider escaped. The breach and the precipice still remain.

But these were not the only mementos we saw of the arbitary character of Mehemet Ali. The Arabs