Sivut kuvina
PDF
ePub

CONCEPTION BAY AND HARBOUR GRACE.

269

foundland, not only from its numerous commodious harbours, coves, &c., but from the spirit and enterprise of its inhabitants. Harbour Grace is the principal town of this district; Carbonear, or Collier's Harbour is the next in importance, but its harbour, though spacious, is not considered at all seasons secure; besides these there are several considerable settlements, as far up the bay as Holy Rood, formed by the deep inlets, separated by perpendicular rocks, which run out into the sea for two or three leagues, though they are not a mile in breadth. The scenery on this part of the coast is majestic, wild, and calculated to strike the beholder with awe.

According to the journal with which I have been favoured by the Royal Geographical Society, it is stated, that on the 10th of September, the Favourite arrived off Harbour Grace, in Conception Bay, after sailing along a nice English-looking coast, studded with many fishing establishments.' Harbour Grace is a good port; and the town is considerable, and of a respectable appearance. Conception Bay, in which it is situate, is the richest and most populous country district in Newfoundland, containing altogether about 25,000 inhabitants. They are distributed in a number of small towns, or fishing and agricultural hamlets ; near another of which, Port de Grave, a remarkable basin is hollowed out in the cliffs by the action of frost, or the more certain operation of time, in decaying the slate clay, of which the rocks are composed. First a circle is entered, twenty feet wide by twenty high and beyond is the basin itself, which is about 300 feet in circumference, and surrounded

by perpendicular rocks 120 feet in height, with a border of dwarf spruce at top. At one corner a little exit, among broken masses of rock, carries off the superfluous water; the depth near the centre of the cavity is about fourteen feet. On leaving Harbour Grace, Captain Robinson observes, 'I have been much pleased with my visit to this port. The harbour is good, and though the space between the end of the bar and the north shore is rather narrow, a large ship, well handled, may beat through or back and fill in and out with the tide. Approaching the town from the northward you pass a large house surrounded by some considerable trees, which has an English appearance; as has also the little town, with its parsonage in the centre of a pretty garden, and weather-beaten church, bearing an antique, unNewfoundlandish air.'

On the eastern side of Conception Bay there are several islands, amongst which is Bell Isle (six miles long), so called from the shape of a remarkable rock close to its western side. This island is distant from Harbour Grace about twelve, and from Portugal Cove about four miles; and the soil, consisting of a loose deep black earth, is so extremely fertile as seldom to require manure, while wheat yields twentyfold, potatoes fifteen, and oats, hay, and vegetables thrive remarkably well. Portugal Cove is the only settlement of any consequence on the east side, but unlike most other positions it has no safe harbour, and only an open roadstead, rendered dangerous for the fishing craft in bad weather.

The Cape of St. Francis, the eastern boundary of

CAPE OF ST. FRANCIS.

271

Conception Bay, is distant seven leagues from St. John's Harbour; four leagues lower is Torbay, a fishing station; and three leagues further is St. John's. The harbour is one of the best in the island, being formed between two mountains, the eastern points of which leave an entrance, called the Narrows.

From the circumstance of the harbour being only accessible by one very large ship at a time, and from the numerous fortifications and batteries erected for its protection, St. John's is a place of considerable strength. The Narrows, which is the only assailable part, is so well guarded that any vessel attempting to force an entrance would be inevitably sunk. There is a signal post on the top of a lofty hill, on the right of the entrance of the Narrows, which telegraphs to the town the arrival of every vessel that passes, where from, and the length of passage. There are about twelve fathoms water in the middle of the channel, with tolerably good anchorage ground. The most lofty perpendicular precipices rise to a considerable height upon both sides, but the southern shore has rather the greater altitude, only from a comparison with the opposite rocks. There is a light shown every night at Fort Amherst on the left side side of the entrance, where there is also a signal post, whence the ships that pass are hailed and signals made to the hill before-mentioned, which repeats them to the Government House and the Town other batteries of greater strength appear towering above the rocky eminences towards the north. At about two-thirds of the distance between

the entrance, and, what may properly be termed the harbour itself, there lies a dangerous shelf, called the Pancake, opposite the Chain Rock, so named from a chain which extends across the strait at that place, to prevent the admission of any hostile fleet. Mariners on entering the place ought to beware of approaching too near the rocks, on the larboard-hand inside the light-house point. In addition to the fortifications already noticed, there are several other strong fortresses upon the heights around the town, so as to render the place perfectly secure against any sudden attack.

Fort Townshend is situated immediately over the town, and was the usual residence of the governor. During the government of Sir Thomas Cochrane a new house, offices, &c. have been erected for the accommodation of his Excellency, the first estimate for which was under nine thousand pounds, but there is reason to believe the actual cost of the buildings amounts to little less, if not full, fifty thousand pounds! A precious legacy for successive governors, and to the colony a monument of extravagance and folly. Fort William is more towards the north; and there is also a small battery perched on the top of a single pyramidical mount, called the Crow's Nest.

The south-east limits of St. John's Bay is formed by Cape Spear, about four miles from the Narrows. Petty Harbour is a fishing station of some importance, as is also the Bay of Bulls about seven leagues from the mouth of the harbour. This last is difficult of access on account of some sunken rocks,

CAPE RACE AND TREPASSEY BAY.

273

but once in vessels are landlocked and will ride in safety. About thirty miles from St. John's is Cape Broyle Harbour, and Ferryland; these with Aquafort, Fermews, and Renews Harbour, all fishing stations, are the only settlements of any consequence on this part of the coast as far as Trepassy Bay.

Cape Race, from the south-east point of Newfoundland, in 46° 43′ north latitude, and 52° 49′ west longitude. About twenty leagues to the south-east of which are the Virgins or Cape Race rocks, so much dreaded by mariners1; at the same distance to the westward are two points frequently mistaken for Cape Race in approaching the land from the southward. From the latter, called on this account Mistaken Point, to Cape Ray, the coast is indented by harbours and coves, and also lined with a vast number of small islands, and here the fishing is carried on to a great extent, the soundings fifty or sixty leagues from the shore never exceeding 100 fathoms.

Trepassey Bay (formerly called Abram Trepaza), which has a large secure harbour and excellent anchorage, lies about seven leagues north-west of Cape Race, Biscay Bay being to the north-east, and Sailing Bay to the north-west. Six miles from the latter is Cape Pine, and further north-west Cape Freels and Blackhead, leading to St. Mary's Bay. A con

1 The Virgin Rocks have been recently surveyed by one of his Majesty's vessels, and their position accurately laid down. There is said to be four fathoms water on the shoalest, on which however, in bad weather, a vessel would soon be dashed to pieces.

NOVA SCOTIA.

T

« EdellinenJatka »