from this mode of watering. There need be no dread of a burning heat; the space, where burning begins, may be always temperately cool, and constantly throwing up a fine moist, instead of a parching dry, heat: there is never occasion for immoderate watering above, in order to reach the bottom of the hills and, in short, the water is so equally diffused throughout the subsoil, that the plants on the surface thrive astonishingly. The cost of such a machine for two lights, is about 3s. J. STEPHENS.

Carr House, March 28. 1828.

WE are perfectly aware of the absolute necessity there is, in forcing cucumbers and melons, that no part of the bed of earth should become parched by an excess of heat from the dung, and especially where parching most frequently takes place, immediately under the hills of earth; we are also aware that the plants and surface may receive too much water, before the bases of the hills receive enough: but we regret the unnecessary complication of the instrument employed by Mr. Stephens, as we think a more simple contrivance would answer the purpose quite as well, viz. a metal tube (fig. 100. a), having

100

-b

a movable pointed nozzle (b), loosely attached by two wires running on two staples (c), which, thrust into the mould in any direction, and to any depth, would, when drawn back a little to dislodge the nozzle, convey water to any part, and in any quantity required; care being taken to close the holes after the tube is withdrawn. But this we would recommend to our correspondent's consideration: he has experience, and, we doubt not, he can suggest something which might be of more simple construction, and more general usefulness.- Cond.

ART. XX. Description of an easy and convenient Method of forcing Sea-kale in the open Ground, as practised in the Garden of Pendry Williams, Esq., Pen-pont, near Brecon. By Mr. W. VAUGHAN,

Sir,

A BORDER (fig. 101. a), at the back of the hot-house (b), is heated by a double flue, which, first proceeding from a fire

place in a shed (c), branches into two divisions at the distance of 4 ft from the furnace. Before reaching the further end,

the flues again unite, and pass out at the end; the smoke escaping by a hole, which is closed with a flat stone, as soon as the flue is warm enough, and the fire put out.

The divisions of the flue are parallel, and at the distance of 3 ft. from each other. Two rows of plants occupy the space between the flues, 1 ft. apart from the flues and each other, and at the distance of 18 in. plant from plant, alternating in the rows. At similar distances are two rows on each outside of the flues, being six rows in all. In the autumn the bed receives a dressing and covering, 1 ft. thick, of old tanner's bark, through which the shoots easily rise, completely blanched. When the crop is required, fires are put to about a fortnight before; and, if so early as the first of December, the bed continues to yield shoots till the month of May. The branches of the flue nearest the fire-place have each a damper fitted in, to allow throwing the heat to one side or other, as may be necessary; and, if both removed, to the whole at once. I am, Sir, yours, &c.

Brecon, March 27. 1828.

W. VAUGHAN.

ART. XXI. On the Culture of the Sea-kale (Crámbe marítima). By F. FORBES, Esq. R.N. In a Letter to Robert Mangles, Esq., of Whitmore Lodge. Communicated by Mr. Mangles.

Sir,

In reply to your enquiries about the mode of cultivating sea-kale here, I send you the following particulars: - In the month of March, about seven years ago, I was disappointed by finding the quality materially reduced by the alternate frost and wet of the winter. I failed in obtaining a supply of plants in the nursery I applied to, and disliking the patchy appearance of the beds, I directed them to be dug over, and the roots removed. On my seeing the quantity of roots, it occurred to me that something might be done with them; I therefore decided upon trying an experiment. I had them cut into Ꭺ Ꭺ Ꮞ .

pieces (see Vol. II. p. 365.), each from 3 to 5 in. long, and planted as sea-kale is usually done. As the summer approached I found a more ample supply, very few having failed. Towards winter, the plants were as strong as could be wished for, and underwent the various processes of forcing, &c.

I have been guided, as to the time of making the new plantations, by the state of the old, taking the roots from those which had done producing, and a few plants afford cuttings sufficient for use. The months of March or April answer equally well.

I have for only one season since omitted following the plan which accident thus pointed out to me, and I certainly consider it the best mode of cultivating this excellent vegetable, besides keeping off the disagreeable appearance of the beds when the plants partially fail. The produce is abundant, and, coming from the young plant, is of a superior quality, and more delicate in flavour. Yours, &c.

Winkfield Place, Windsor Forest, July 4. 1828.

F. FORBES.

ART. XXII. Method of forcing Asparagus in the open Ground, in permanent Beds. By Mr. DAVID SPIERS.

Sir,

I BEG to send you an account of an easy and successful method of forcing asparagus, which, as it has many advantages over the common way of obtaining that favourite vegetable in the winter months, deserves to be generally known. The beds, in width 4 ft. 8 in., and bounded on the sides by pigeon-holed brickwork 2 ft. deep, should lie east and west, in order that the frames may face the south. A bed of 60 ft. in length will require three frames of 15 ft. in length each, and 4 ft. 6 in. wide. The compost for the bed must consist of one half sandy loam, one fourth bog or good vegetable mould, and one fourth good rotten dung, all well mixed together. With this fill the bed, so that, when settled down, it may be a little higher than the brickwork. The side trenches should be 2 ft. wide and 2 ft. deep; these are intended to receive the linings. Along the middle of each trench a drain should be made of common draining-tiles, to keep the linings free from water. The bed will hold four rows of plants, 11 in. distant from each other and from the sides of the bed. Strong oneyear-old plants should be preferred, and planted in the month of April. The plants should be allowed three years to esta

blish themselves, before they are forced. In the month of October, before it is intended to begin forcing, the stems should be carefully cut off, and the surface cleared, and covered with littery straw, 12 in. thick; the trenches may also be filled with the same, in order to keep the whole dry.

If forcing is to begin on the 1st of December, clear away the covering of litter to about 18 in. farther than the length of the first frame; fill the trenches with good, hot, stable-yard dung, well beaten down, and carry up to about 18 in. higher than the surface; next fork up and rake the surface of the bed, and immediately cover it, from lining to lining, with prepared dung, a few inches higher than the linings. In about twelve days after applying the dung examine the bed. If the buds have begun to appear, or as soon as they do, get the frame and lights ready to be put on; remove the dung from off the bed, laying it on each side, the greater portion to the back; when the bed is cleared, sift over the surface a little previously prepared fine mould; set on the frame and lights immediately, and work up the linings with the dung taken off the bed, laying a part at the ends; and then double mat the frame for two days. When the linings have taken their fresh heat, the covering may be removed every morning as early as the weather will permit, again matting up early enough in the afternoon, and keeping up the heat of the linings, should they decline. When the shoots have risen about 2 in., particular attention should be given in admitting air, in order that the crop may have a good colour; and, with such management, cutting may commence on Christmas day. In ten days after the crop in the first frame comes into use, preparations must be made for the second, and so for the third, in the way above described. The frames are placed close to each other, and all managed in the same way. The remaining portion of the bed receives the first frame, and will only require a back and front lining, which will give, assisted by the second and third frames, a fair supply till the natural crop comes in. When the forcing is over, the bed should be covered 3 in. thick with rotten dung; and if occasionally watered in the ensuing summer with manured water, it much assists plants which are intended to be forced every season. If the dung in the trenches is wanted for other purposes, they should be filled with litter, to preserve the sides of the bed from drought. Forcing should not be begun always at the same end of the bed, but alternately. I have found wood covers, 15 ft. 6 in. in length, by 4 ft. wide, very useful for sheltering the bed by night, or in severe weather, especially in keeping the whole dry.

It is needless to show how far this system of forcing asparagus may be extended, or to point out to practical men the advantages attending it. Parallel beds may be forced in the same way, so that the intermediate linings be not too much trodden on, as this always checks their working kindly. Beds so treated will continue productive for many years. I am, Sir, &c.

Mr. Knight's Nursery, King's Road.

DAVID SPIERS.

ART. XXIII. Abridged Communications.

METHOD of forcing Cucumbers by Fire Heat, practised at Reading, in Berkshire, in the Garden of William Stephens, Esq. By John Forrest, late Gardener there. This plan of forcing early hot-bed crops, may be particularly convenient where stable-yard dung cannot be conveniently had, or even where it is scarce. It is as simple as it is economical, requiring only an excavation 24 feet deep, and of the length and breadth of the frame, to be first dug out; in this a flue of brick or any other material is carried along, nearly on one side of the pit, from a furnace at one end, and returns on the other to a chimney carried up over the fire-place. Posts are driven at the corners, and intermediate ones at back and front. On these posts are laid a stage of wattled (i. e. wickerwork) hurdles, closely enough woven to prevent the mould of the bed from falling through. On this platform a frame of sufficient depth is placed, and within this a bed of suitable compost, 18 in. thick, is put for the plants. By this trifling structure and simple means, a perfect command of heat is obtained, at very little expense; and, where proper skill is applied, and the necessary degree of moisture is maintained, in connection with the fire heat, there is no doubt of a successful result. When the required heat (70°) is found in the frame, a damper fitted at the bottom of the upright chimney is shut, thereby confining the heat in the flue and heat chamber, which is further regulated by ordinary coverings.This simple plan, and consequently successful hot-bed management, do great credit to the inventor, and we sincerely wish that he had a situation where his abilities might be exercised to his own and his employer's advantage.

Kinmel Park, Denbighshire. - This is the beautiful seat of W. L. Hughes, Esq. M.P., situated about four miles west from St. Asaph. The mansion is surrounded by a park, well