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Take in good part from our poor poet's bourd But now, on the contrary, it would show his ale, rajber, grapes, peaches, and periochd apps
cannot ealily account for; but I doubt to but ba
pit, box, and gallery," i well track His prologue to "Sir Martin Mar-alih lich
an exquilite poem, taken from the fame all, cu
nion, made the most diverting part of the action. ( lieve it would give more fatisfa&ion to the store ind These embellishments we have received from our For Diodorus Siculus reports, how the filtero
de imitation of the ancient Poets. Horace, in his Meleager, or Diomedes, mourning for their beson Satires, makes Mæcenas very merry with the re ther, were turned into len-turkeys; from where collection of the unusual entertainments and dishes proceeds their frateliness of gate, reservedress given him by Nasidienus; and with his raillery conversativn, ad melancholy in the tone of their upon garlic in his Third Epode. The Supper of voice, and all their actions. But this would be the Petronius, with all its machines and contrivances, nost improper mcat in the world for a commeds; gives us the most lively description of Nero's for melanci ly and distress require a different ist luxury, Juvenal spends a whole Satire about of diet, as well as language : and I have heard d the price and dresling of a single fish, with the a fair lady, that was plealed to say, " that, il éle judgment of the Roman Senate concerning it.
“were upon a range road, and driven to grez Thus, whether serious or jocose, good eating is necessity, she believed the night for obiebe made the subject and ingredient of poetical enter “ able to fup upon a fuck-file and a f# tainments,
pon." I think all poets agree that Episodes are to be 1 an fure poets, as well as cooks, are for her." interwoven in their Poems with the greatest nicety ing all words nicely chosen, and properly adapted; of art; and so it is the same thing at a good table : and therefore, I believe, they would shew the less and yet I have seen a very good Episode (give me
regret that I do, to hear persons of some rank und leave to call it so) made by sending out the leg of quality fay, “ Pray cut up that goese. Hilone a goose, or the gizzard of a turkey, to be broiled : o to fome of that chicken, hen, or capon, at ball though I know that Critics with a good stomach
" that plover ;' not conlidering how indiscrechy have been offended that the unity of action should they talk, before men of art, whose proper det be so far broken. And yet, as in our Plays, so at
are, " Break that goose;"~" fruft tbat esbicka," our common tables, many Episodes are allowed, -"Spoil tbat ben; "-" sauce sbat capen ;- sa! as Aicing of cucumbers, dressing of fallad, sea “ibat plover."~If they are so much out soning the inside of a furloin of beef, breaking common things, how nuch more will these lobsters' claws, stewing wild ducks, toasting of
with bitterns, berons, cranes, cheese, legs of larks, and several others.
vain for us to complain of the faults and errors cé A poet, w..m, by proper expressions and pleasing the world, unless we lend our helping hand to 4 images, is to Icad us into the knowledge of necef:
trieve them. sary truth, may delude his audience extremnely, and
To cenclude, our greatest author of dramatic indeed barbarously, unless he has some knowledge poetry, Mr. Iryden, has made use of the mpita it. Would it not found ridiculous to hear Ales: plays, one a tragedy, the other a comedy ; * ander the Great command his cannon to be mount
which he has shewn his greatest art, and priva? ed, and to throw red-hot bullets out of his mortar
moft successful. I had not seen the play for fore pieter? or to have Statira talk of tagefory-i argings, years, before I hit upon almost the latest which, all the learned know, were many ycars
that he has in the following prologue to“ alibi after her death first hung up in the hall of King
“ Love :" Attalus ? Should Sir John Falstaff complain of having dirtied his filk stockings, or Anne of Boleyn, call for her coach; would an audience endure it,
“ As pignies would be glad to top a man. when all the world knows that Queen Elizabeth
“ Hall-wits are ficas, fu little, and fo light, was the first that had her coach or wore filk frock
“ We searce could know they live, but that they ings ? Neither can a poet put hops in an English
" bite. man's drink before heresy came in : nor can he 1er ve him with a dish of carp before the time : he
" For change, become their next poor tour! might as well give King James the first a dish of
guers, asparagus upon his first coming to London, which were not brought into England till many years
“And jratib ibe bomely raper from the costs; after; or make Owen Tutor present Queen Caharine with a fugar-loaf, whereas he might as easily have given her a diamond as large, fucing
“ And fiuce that plentecus Autumn now is pal. the iceing of cakes at Wood-street Corner, and the refining of sugar, was but an invention of two hundred years standing, and before that time ou ancestors sweetened and garnished all with boney, of which there are some remains in Windfor bowls, baron bracks, and large fimnels, sent for presents from Litchfield, reading, if the poet put a ben-turkey upon a table might in a tragedy; and therefore I would advise it in Hamlet, instead of their painted trifles; and I be
d peacocks? But it is
Fops may have leave to level all the cap,
“ But, as the rich, when tir'd with daily fealls
" Drink hearty draugbis of ale from plain brotea.book,
“ Such ihrivela fruit as Winter can afford."
How fops and pleas should come together,"
ould with it translated into Latin, to be pre- , what is worse, I have rever considered whether ed to Dr. Lister's work. The whole is as fol any one would read. Nay, I have been so very
bad as to design to reprint; but then a wickeit
thought canie across me, with " Who will buy?"* PROLOGUE.
For, if I tell you the title, you will be of my
mind, that the very name will destroy it: " Fools, which each man meets in his dish “ Art of Cookery, in imitation of Horace's Art “ each day,
“ of Poetry; with some familiar Letters to Dr. Arc yet the great regalia of a play;
“ Lifler and others, occafioned principally by the In which co poets you but just appear,
« Title of a Book, published by the Doctor, con To prize that highest which coft them so dear. “ cerning the Soups and Sauces of the Ancients.", Fops in the town more easily will pass,
To this a beau will cry,' " Phough! what have I One ttory makes a ftatutable ass;
“ to do with kitchen stuff?” To which I answer, But such in plays must be much thicker sown, “ Buy it, and give it to your servants." For I Like yolks of eggs, a dozen beat to one hope to live to Ice the day when every mistress of Obferving poets all their walks invade, a family, and every steward fall call up their As men watch woodcocks gliding through a children and servants, with, " Come, Miss Betty, " glade;
“ how much have you got of your Art of CookAnd when they have enough for comedy,
?"-- Where did you leave off, Miss Isabel.” They 'low their several bodies in a pye.
-“ Miss Kitty, are you no farther than King The poet's but a cook co fasnion it,
Henry and the Miller ??”— Yes, Madam, I ani Por, gallants, you yourselves have found the wit. Tobil you welcome, would your bounty wrong: None welcome those who bring their cheer *
-His name shall be enroll'd along."
“ In Escourt's book, whose gridiron’s fram'd of
gold.” The image (which is the great perfection of a :t) is so extremely lively, and well painted, Pray, mother, is that our Master Escourt ?”. it methinks I see the whole audience with a dih “ Well, child, if you niin this, you shall not be buttered eggs in one hand, and a woodcock put to your Affeinbly Catechifin next Saturday," : in the other. I hope I may be excused, after What a glorious tight it will be, and how becoingreat an example; for I declare I have no de- ing a great farily, to see the bucler out-learning a but to encourage learning, and am very far the steward, and the painful fcullery-maid exertm any designs against it. And therefore I hope ing her memory far beyond the mumping houseworthy gentleman, who said that the “ Journey keeper! I am told, that, if a book is any thing o Londa” ought to be burnt by the common
useful, the : rinters have a way of pirating on one Igman, as a book, that, if received, would difo | another, and printing other persons' copies; which lfage ingenuity, would be pleased no: to make is very barbarous. And then ihall I be forced to
bonfire at the upper end of Ludgate-street, for come out with “ The true Art of Cookery is Tof erdangering the booksellers' thops and the oniy to be had at Mr. Pindar's, a patten-ma
ker's, under St. Duritan'. Church, with the AuI have abundance more to say upon these sub " thor's feal at the title page, being throe saucets; but I am afraid my first courte is fo tedious, pans, in a bend proper, on a cook's apron, arut you will excuse me both the second course and gent. Beware of counterfeits." And be forced : deser:, and call for pipes and a candle. But to put out advertisements, with “ Strops for raafider, the papers come from an old friend; and zors, and the best spectacles are to be had only tre thein out of compassion to,
at the Archimedes, &c.". SIR, &c. I design proposals, which I must get delivered
to the Cooks' Company, for the making an order
that every apprentice shall have the “ Art of LETTER Vil.
Cookury” when he is bound, which he shall lay
by heart before he is made frie; and then he shall To Mr.
have Dr. Lister's book of “ Soups and Ssuces" delivered to him for his future practice. But
you know better what I am to do than 1. For AM no great lover of writing more than I am
the kindness you may thew me, I shall always teed to, and therefore have noe troubled you endeavour to make what returns lay in my power. ih my letters to congratulate your good fortune
I am yours, &c. or to bemoan our unhappiness in the 1s of you here, The occasion of this is, to dete your assistance in a matter that I am fallen in
L ETTER VIII. by the advice of some friends; but, unless they
To Mr. Flp me, it will be impossible for me to get out of - I have had the misfortune to-write; but, | I CANNOT but recomniend to your perusal a late
Dear Sir, * Some critics read it chair.
exquisite comedy, called “ The Lawyer's For
“ paft, .
sends a meflage to her by a boy, who tells het, her retirement, (see the great judgment of the lifbed, and all hopes of wild-fowl destroyed for its
furure and happy were it, if misfiuno word ftop here. But, the cruel beauty relating to be 2! peafed, Valentine takes a sudden doorlar, which he communicates to Letocre the fuel,
to brufb of, and guit bis babildia: H wir • Madam, I have no Atomach to ary meat, but houlckeeper to kick her immediately before :
Truly, | master rcal, and Valentine having threated to
and unexperienced in travelling, it became they none;" fo Le fils at the table, jers to cat, but for there is but one scene int spored, buto 6
made but Ilender provision for their
apt; I am sure, Horace could not have pre- Gind diftrefled Valentine in the mot muka
tune; or, Love in a Hollow Tree;" which pared himself more exa&ly; far (according by the piece has its peculiar embellishments, and is a rule,“ A widow has cold pye.") though s poem carefully framed according to the nicest rules lentine, being love-fick, could not eat, yet it a of the “ Art of Cookery;" for the play opens his fault, and not the pet's. But, when l'abswith a scene of good housewifery, where Favou tine is to return the civili'y, and to invite Moda rite, the houseekeeper, makes this complaint to Furiofa, and Madam Florida, with other part Lady Bonona :
conipany, to his mother, the hospitable Le
Bonora's (who, by the bye, had called for two “ Fav. The last mutton killed was lean, Ma bottles of wine for Latitar her attorney), then u dam. Should not some fat sheep be bought affluence and dainties are to ap ear (according sa
this verse “ Mangoes, Peta.go Champignon “ Bon. What say you, Let-acre, to it?
Cavcare"); and Mrs. Favourite, the has “ Let. This is the worst time of the year for keeper, makes, these molt important inquiries: " sheep. The fresh grass makes them fall away, " and they begin to taste of the wool; they must “ Fav. Mistress, shall I put any muhrim, “ be spared a while, and Favourite must cast to spend some salt meat and fish. I hope we shall
mangoes, or bamboons, into the fallad! « have some fat calves íhortly."
“ Bon. Yes, I pry'thee, the best thou haf.
" Fav. Shall I use ketchup or anchovies in What can be more agreeable than this to the “ Bon. What
you 66 Art of Cookery,” where our author says,
But, however magnificent the dinner mighr be “ But though my edge be not too nicely set, “ Yet I anothers appetite may whet;
yet Mrs. Bonona, as the manner of time perkas
is, makes her excuse for it, with, " Well, Gender " May teach him when to buy, when season
min, can ye spare a little tine to take a bar
“ dinner? I promise you, it shall not be kez « What's Itale, what's choice, what's plentiful,
It is very probable, though the auth-t dues set what's waste,
make any of the guests give a relation of it, that " And lead him through the various maze of
Valentine, being a great sportsnian, might fr.
the table with gane and wild-fowl. There wat In the second act, Valentine, Mrs. Bonona's fon, the consummate character of the play, hava eine told his mother of the morning befiers
at lealt one phealant in the house, which l'ils ing in the first act lost his hawk, and consequently
“ Madam, I had a good flight of a phrala his way, benighted, and loft, and seeing a light in a
Crck, that, after my hawk feizcd, made heels diftant boufe, comes to the thrifty widow Furiofa's “ if he would have fought; but my hawk pleted (which is exactly according to the rule," A prince,
“ him presently." Now it is not real saabk 1 " who in a forest rides astray :") zu bere be finds suppose, that, Vaily lying abroad that night time the old gentlezeman carding, the fair Florida, ber old gentlewoman under that concern wok bare daughter, working on a parchment, wbils the maid is any stomach to it for her own fupper. Howev', Spinning Peg reaches a chair ; fack is called for;
to see the fate of things there is nothing permis and, in the mean time, the good old gentlewoman come
Dent; for one Mrs Candia making (though
“ tokens, the hawk torn to pieces with his out
" hands;" and then pulls out of the bijtet the trustning
" misapprehension, had ferie her leme vite
and legs of a fowl. So we see the p's biru distan
was, whether Let-acre did not think his route
& too fond of him, ard his boy being for
ondition that the joint Arts of Poetry and Conko j“ be a nurse, a tender nurse, to him.” Nor do ry are able to represent him. There is a scene blessings come alone; for the good mother, having f he greatest horror, and most moving to com- refreshed bim with warm baths, and kept bim tenderly aun, of any thing that I have fewn amongst the in the bouse, orders Favourite, with repeated innoderns : “ Palks of no pyramids of fowl, or junctions, “ to get the best entertainment the ever
b.sks if fish," is nothing to it ; for here we fee “ yet provided, to consider what she has and n innntent person, unless punished for his mo “ what she wani's, and to get all ready in few her's and housekeeper's extravagance, as was said “ hours." And fo chis most regular work is conefore, in their mushroonis, mangoes, bamboons cluded with a dance and a wedding-dinner. I etchup, and anchovies, rerluced ip the extremiry cannot believe there was any thing ever more of f eating his cbeese without bread, and having no a piece than the comedy. Some persons may adther drink but water For he and his boy, with mire your meagre tragedies; but give me a play evo saddles on bis back and wallet, came into a walk where there is a prospect of good meat or good f confufed trees, where an owl bollorus, a bear and wine stirring in every act of it. opard walk across the desert at a distance, and yet Though I am confident the Aathor had writo sery venture in; where Valentine accosts his boy ten this Play and printed it long before the “ Art vish these lines, which would draw tears fro:n “ of Cookery" was thought of, and I had never ny thing that is not marble:
read it till the other Poem was very nearly per
fected; yet it is admirable to see how a true rule Hang up thy wallet on that tree,
will be adapted to a good work, or a good work And creep thou in this hollow place with me; to a true rule. I should be heartily glad, for the Let's here repose our wearied limbs till they sake of the public, if our Poets, for the future, more wearied be!
would make use of so good an example. I doubt “ Boy. There is nothing left in the wallet but not but, whenever you or 1 write Comedy, we one piece of cheese. What shall we do for shall observe it. brad?
I have just now met with a surprising happiness; " VAL. When we have flept, we will seek out a Friend that has seen two of Dr. Lister's Works,
“ Some roots that shall supply that one “ De Buccinis Fluviatilibus et Marinis Exdoubt.
“ ercitatio,” an Exercitation of Sea and River " Boy. But no drink, Master?
Shell-fith, in which, he says, fume of the chiefest * Val. Under that rock a spring I fee, rarities are the pizzle and spermatic vefjöls of a
“ Which shall refreth my thirst and Snail, delineated by a nicroscope, the omentum or " thee.”
caul of its throat, its Fallopian tube, and its fube
crocean tefiicle; which are things Hippocrates, So the act closes; and it is dismal for the audi- Galen, Cellus, Farnelius, and Harvey, were never nce to consider how Valentine and the poor boy, matters of. The other curiosity is the admirable sho, it seenis, bad a coming somach, Mould con- piece of Cælius Apicius, “ De Opsoniis et Condiinue there all the time the music was playing, mentis, five Arte Coquinaria, Libri decem,” nd longer. But, to case them of their pain, by being Ten Bouks of Soups and Sauces, and the in invention which the poets call catastropbe, Va. Art of Cookery, as it is excellently printed for the entine, though with a long beard, and very weak Doctor, who in this so important affair is not sufwith fafting, is reconciled to Floridi, who, em ficiently communicative. My Friend says, he has racing him, says, “ I doubt I have offended him
a promise of leave to read it. What Remarks he tou much; but I will attend him home, cherish makes I shall not be envious of, but impart to - him with cordials, make him broths," (poor him I love as well as his good-natured creature! I wish the had Dr. Life Cer's book to help her!) “ anoint his limbs, and
Mos humble servant, &c.
THE ART OF COOKERY,
IN IMITATION OF
HORACE'S ART OF POETRY.
TO DR. LISTER.
INGENIOUS LISTEN, were a picture drawn Others, to thew the largeness of their soul, With Cynthia's face, but with a neck like brawn; Prepare you muttons swold, and oxen wide With wings of Turkey, and with feet of call; To vary the same things, fome think is art : Though drawn by Kneller, it would make you By larding of hogs-seet and bacon-tart, langh :
The taste is now to that perfection brough', Such is, good sir, the figure of a fealt,
That care, when wanting kill, creates the fas! By some rich farmer's wife and sister dreft;
In Covent-Garden did a tailor Uwell, Which, were is not for plenty and for steam, Who might deserve a place in his own hell. Might be resembled to a fick man's drcam, Give him a single coat to make, he'd do's; Where all ideas huddling run fo iaft,
A vest, or breeches, lingly : but the brute That syllabubs come first, and soups the latt. Could pe'er contrive ali chree to make a duit: Not but that cooks and poets still were free, Rather than frame a supper like fuch dots To use their power in nice variety;
I'd have finc eyes and teeth, without my
ook Hence, mackarel leem delightful to the eyes, You that from pliart rafte would falrics raó. Though drefo'd with incoherent gooseberries. Expecting thence to gain inmortal praile, Crabs, salmon, lobsters, are with Fennel Ipread, Your knuckles try, and let your finews krov Who never touch'd that herb till they were dead; Their power to knead, and give the farm Yet no man lards fale pork with orange peel,
dough; Or garnishes his lamb with spitchcock'd cel. Choose your materials right, your seasoning és,
A cook perhaps has mighty things professid, 21 And with your fruit resplendent fugar mit Then sent up but two dishes nicely dress'd : From arike, What signify Scotch-collops to a feast?
And elegance adorn the surface of your citi
. Or you can make whipp'd cream; pray what relief Beauty from order Springs: the judging eye Will that be to a sailor who wants beef;
Will tell you if one single plate's awry, Who, lately shipwreck’d, never can have ease, The cook must fill regard the present time; Till re-establish'd in his pork and pease ?
T'omit what's just in season is a crime. When once begun, let industry ne'er cease
Your infant pease t' asparagus prefer, Till it has render'd all things of one piece: Which to the supper you may beft defer. At your defert bright pewter comes too late, Be cautious now you change old bills of farz, When your first course was all serv'd up in plate. Such alterations should at least be rare;
Most knowing Sir! the greatest part of cooks, Yet credit to the artist will accrue, Searching for truth, are cozen’d by its looks. Who in known things still makes th' appica.al One would have all things little; hence has tried Fresh dainties are by Britain's traffic kdown, Turkey-poults fresh'd, from th' egg in batter fried: And now by conftant use familiar grows.