During the present century, when tours have The little village of Argentiere, with its church become extremely infectious, the wild and and glittering spire, and the two aiguilles above wondrous scenery of Europe's monarch of it, together with the cheerful appearance of culmountains has attracted a great share of atten- tivation, form a landscape sublimely picturesque, tion. Mont Blanc has become a kind of Mecca The glaciers descend almost to the bottom of the for the worshippers of the grand in nature. It valley, presenting the appearance of lakes frozen is true that the number of persons who have during a storm. succeeded in planting their feet upon the snows of its summit-the highest point of a continentis surprisingly small; but we have very many descriptions of its awful crevasses, shining glaciers, and tremendous precipices; and books, lectures, and panoramas have been extensively employed to convey to the world some conception of these wonders. We believe that this monarch deserves all the homage he receives, and that we have yet much to learn in regard to his sublime peculiarities. Mont Blanc is situated within the limits of Savoy, but all its approaches are from the side of Switzerland. Tourists who intend visiting the great mountain generally proceed to Geneva. The views between that city and Mont Blanc, which lies to the westward, present all that is wild and beautiful in Alpine scenery. The valley of Chamouni is reached by the traveller after a journey of eighteen leagues from Geneva, through the districts of Cablais and Faucigny. This valley is said to have been discovered in 1741, by Pococke and Windham; that is, those English travellers first made its grandeur and beauty known to Europe. It forms a long and narrow dell, through which the Aveyron impetuously flows, and above which rises, like a stupendous wall, Mont Blanc, with all its attendant mountains. The valley being nearly three thousand four hundred feet above the sea, Mont Blanc towers more than twelve thousand feet above, and, with its attendants of Dôme de Gorite, Col de Géant, and La Côte, shoots numerous pinnacles into the clouds. By these giants Chamouni is, as it were, inclosed from the rest of the world. The pines and larches which clothe the west end of the valley give it a sombre appearance, and this effect is increased by the unvaried snows of Mont Blanc which hang over it. But, after passing the village called the Prieuré, the scene changes, and to this dreary magnificence succeeds a series of majestic pyramids, called aiguilles, or needles, of astonishing height, and too steep to permit the snows to rest on them at any season. The valley, which becomes narrower, is richly ornamented with trees; and the river, rushing between finely clothed rocks and precipices, gives life and beauty to the scene. Tourists generally ascend Montanvert first, to enjoy a comprehensive view of the astonishing scenery. To behold, however, Mont Blanc in all its glory, it is necessary, by a rugged and perilous route, to ascend the Breven on the opposite side of the valley. The neighbouring summits of the Col de Balme and the Buet also afford fine views of the mountain king, arrayed in his robes of shining snow. But a task, suffi cient to appal ordinary minds, remains for the person who would stand upon the summit of Mont Blanc and survey the full grandeur of this wonderful region-a task which few have had the daring to attempt, and still fewer the resolution to surmount. The first person who is known to have encouraged attempts to ascend Mont Blanc was Horace Benedict de Saussure, who was born at Geneva on the 17th of February, 1740. Soon after he became of age, this gentleman was appointed Professor of Natural Philosophy in the college of his native city. He had a passion for mountains from his earliest years, and, before he was eighteen, had ascended every mountain of importance in the vicinity of Ge neva. At length, in 1760, alone and on foot, he visited the glacier of Chamouni. At that time, there was not a decent inn in the valley, and around the Priory, where about two thousand inhabitants are now residing, there were only a few miserable dwellings. During his earliest visits to Chamouni, De Saussure cast longing eyes towards the summit of Mont Blanc. Then was born a desire which was destined to remain ungratified for many years afterwards. For a while he felt convinced that the summit of the great mountain was inaccessible; yet he made it generally known that he would handsomely reward any one who would discover a practicable route to that lofty point. The guide of Professor de Saussure, Pierre Simac, tried the ascent twice-once by the Tacal, passing up the glacier, and once by the Glacier des Bossons-but he returned, despairing of success. Notwithstanding this disappointment, in 1775 four Chamouni peasants started with the intention of trying to reach the summit by the mountain of La Côte, the ridge which divides the Glacier des Bossons from that of Taconnay. These got on tolerably well for a short distance; but, on entering a vast valley of snow, which seemed near the summit, they suffered so acutely from a feeling of heat and suffocation, coupled with general nausea and utter exhaustion, that they were compelled to return. The want of success did not check the spirit of adventure. In 1783, Jean Marie Coutel, Lombard Menier, and Joseph Carrier attempted the ascent. They passed the night on the summit of La Côte. The next day they had attained a great elevation, when the hardiest man of the party was seized with a drowsiness, and the others were compelled to return with him. About this time a friend of De Saussure, named M. Bourrit, of Geneva, attempted the ascent of Mont Blanc; but a sudden storm drove him back. He was not deterred, however, from renewing the effort. Two chamois hunters informed him of a new route. He engaged them as guides, and started up the mountain; but he was soon exhausted. One of the hunters went on, and, upon his return, reported that he had been as far as the foot of the dome of Mont Blanc. De Saussure determined to try this new route, and M. Bourrit accompanied him in the ascent-autumn, 1785. The party passed the night on a sheltered ledge at the foot of the Aiguille du Goûté. The next day they climbed the mountain for about five hours, when one of the guides (Pierre Balmat) reported that the snow was in such a treacherous state that it would not be advisable to proceed. The attempt was abandoned; but De Saussure improved the occasion to make some valuable barometrical observations. The true route to the summit of Mont Blanc was not discovered until the summer of 1786. The indomitable De Saussure determined to follow up his enterprise by the route of the Aiguille du Goûté; he therefore engaged Pierre Balmat to build up a stone cabin on one of the shelves of the Aiguille. In the execution of this service, Pierre Balmat, Marie Coutel, and another guide climbed the Aiguille on the 8th of June, 1786, and, with much difficulty and suffering, reached the top of the Dome du Goûté. Here they met François Paccard and three other guides, who had ascended by La Côte. Of the two routes the preference was given, without hesitation, to La Côte. The parties united and continued the ascent. After traversing a large plain of snow, and gaining a huge ridge which connected the top of Mont Blanc with the Dome du Goûté, they found it impossible to proceed, and therefore turned their steps downward. The discoverer of the true route was with the party, but not of it; he had followed them against their will. When they turned to descend, they did not deign to tell poor Jacques Balmat of their intention. While searching for some crystals, he lost sight of them just as the snow fell and obliterated their traces. The storm increased in fury, and Jacques resolved, | in preference to a dark and solitary descent, to spend the night where he had been left-fourteen thousand feet above the level of the sea. He had no food, and was poorly clad. He got under the lee of a rock, and contrived to heap against it sufficient snow to form a kind of niche, into which he crept, and blockaded himself from the storm. There he passed that awful night. When morning dawned, the storm had cleared away.. Balmat found that his feet were frost-bitten; but he could move them without pain. As soon as the sun arose, the brave fellow determined to devote the day to efforts to discover a practicable route to the summit of the mountain. His daring was rewarded. He found that if the crevices that border the Grand Plateau were once crossed, the path to the top of Mont Blanc was clear; and he then traced out the route which has, with some slight variations, been pursued ever since, and which is undoubtedly the only practicable one. Balmat returned to Chamouni the same evening, thoroughly exhausted. He took to his bed, and did not leave it for some weeks. The gallant discoverer kept his secret close, until, nerved with gratitude to Dr. Paccard, the village physician, for his kind attentions, the line of the route was revealed. On the 7th of August, Dr. Paccard and Jacques Balmat, now perfectly recovered, started for the summit of Mont Blanc. They pursued the route by La Côte, and slept on the summit of that ridge. Before daybreak the next morning they were on the march again. Paccard suffered severely from cold and fatigue; but Balmat contrived to sustain the doctor's courage. After surmounting terrible difficulties they arrived at the summit about sunset. There they remained half an hour in full view of a number of Chamouniards, who had climbed the Breola to watch their progress. Returning, they reached their night bivouac by midnight. On the following morning they reached Chamouni in safety, but completely exhausted. De Saussure, being informed of this bold achievement, resolved to make another attempt to accomplish that which had become a chief object of his ambition. The next July, Balmat, with two other guides, reached the summit in safety; and, on the 3rd of August, 1787, De Saussure, accompanied by his servant and eighteen guides, succeeded in standing upon the top of Mont Blanc. The enthusiastic professor has left us a full account of his adventure. The route he adopted differs slightly from that now pursued by travellers. The Glacier des Bossons lies in a steep valley between two ridges of rock. The one to the left is formed by a huge buttress of the Aiguille du Midi; and the ascent is now commenced through the steep Forêt des Pelerins, which clothes its lower side. The ridge to the right is called the Montagne de la Côte. Along this latter ridge De Saussure's caravan began the ascent. There was no difficulty or danger in the early part of the journey, and the party reached the summit of La Côte, about 9,500 feet above the level of the sea, in six hours. There Hamel and his sorrowful comrades returned to they remained during the night. The next Chamouni. morning the journey was resumed, and about nine o'clock the party breakfasted upon the lofty rocks known as the Grand Mulets. Between that point and the summit Mont Blanc forms three stupendous steps, from 800 to 1,000 feet in depth, termed Les Moulets, the highest platform being called the Grand Plateau. On the second of the steps, De Saussure and his party passed the night. They suffered greatly from the rarefaction of the air and raging thirst. The next day, with immense toil, they reached the summit. There they remained four hours, during which time the professor made some interesting experiments. At length the sufferings of the party became intolerable, and they commenced the descent. At the Grand Mulets they bivouacked, and passed the third night upon the mountain. The next day they descended safely to Chamouni. The name of De Saussure is indissolubly connected with Mont Blanc. He was one of the first to achieve the ascent, and, of all the adventurers, he seems to have been the most accurate observer of matters important in a scientific point of view. During 1788, M. Bourrit, Colonel Beaufoy, Mr. Woodley, an Englishman, and Mr. Camper, a native of Holland, attempted to reach the summit of Mont Blanc. They attained a great elevation; but the intense cold disabled some of them, and compelled the whole party to return. Fourteen years then elapsed before another ascent was achieved. On the 10th of August, 1802, M. Forneret, of Lausanne, and Baron Doorhesea, a German, reached the summit, after suffering dreadfully from the rarefaction of the air. In 1809, Maria Pavodis, wife of a guide, ascended to the top of Mont Blanc, in company with Victor Tairraz. She was the first female who accomplished the astonishing feat. In 1812, M. Rodatz, of Hamburg, gained the summit. In 1818, Count Mateyski succeeded; and, in the following year, two Americans, Dr. Russell and Mr. Howard, and one Englishman, Captain Underhill, were triumphant over the difficulties of the ascent. In 1820, a frightful accident occurred to a party upon Mont Blanc. Dr. Hamel, an Englishman in the employ of the Emperor of Russia, determined to ascend the great mountain for the purpose of making some philosophical observations. Two other Englishmen and twelve guides formed the party. They reached the Grand Mulets in safety: there they were detained by bad weather a night and a day. Continuing their journey, they reached the Grand Plateau, and were about to cross a long slope which led to Mont Maudit, when the snow gave way. At the foot of the slope was a crevasse of immense depth. Three of the guides-Pierre Carrier, Pierre Balmat, and Auguste Tairraz-were carried into this chasm, and buried beyond all recovery. The rest of the party made an extremely narrow escape. This catastrophe was sufficient to check the expedition, and Dr. After the accident to Dr. Hamel's party, no attempt was made to ascend Mont Blanc until August, 1822, when Mr. Frederick Clissold reached the summit. Subsequently, a great many attempts were made. Mr. Jackson, an Englishman, who ascended September 4, 1823, was the first adventurer who, having reached the summit, descended the same day to Chamouni. He accomplished the entire journey within thirty-seven hours. In July, 1827, Sir Charles Fellows and Mr. Hawes struck out a new route above the Plateau, which, although it encountered the terrible Mur de la Côte, avoided all the avalanche dangers of the old line. This is the one that has ever since been followed. Mademoiselle Henriette d'Angeville was the second female who reached the top of Mont Blanc. She ascended on the 3rd of Sep. tember, 1838, surmounted all difficulties and dangers with astonishing courage, and, when on the summit, made the guides lift her up on their shoulders, that she might say she had been higher than anybody else. She is said to have experienced less inconvenience from the rarefac tion of the air than the majority of those who have stood upon the summit of Mont Blanc. One of the most observant and intelligent of recent adventurers upon Mont Blanc was Mr. Albert Smith, a gentleman of considerable reputation in the literary world. His narrative of his visit to the valley of Chamouni is very entertaining, and his account of the ascent of the great mountain is the most vivid we have yet seen. He visited the glaciers named, from the villages near which they terminate, Taconnay, Gris, Bossons, Bois, Tour, and Argentière, The glacier Du Bois is by far the most considerable of these, the upper part forming the celebrated Mer de Glace, said to resemble a frozen sea furrowed with waves. Among the celebrated spots which Mr. Smith and most other tourists to Mont Blanc have visited, is the Jardin," a small verdant patch in the centre of the Glacier du Talêfol, amidst the perpetual snow, and eight thousand five hundred feet above the level of the sea. The journey to this curious spot should only be undertaken by persons of steady nerve, as imminent dangers abound upon the path. In crossing the broad glaciers, the greatest caution is necessary, as the footing is treacherous, and a single false step may prove fatal. The "Jardin" is a favourite resort of the chamois hunters, in consequence of being the nearest pasturage for the game during the autumnal season. Mr. Smith informs us that the excursion to this point "abounds with novel and stupendous effects." From it a glorious view of the Mer de Glace and other grand features of scenery may be obtained, while the singularity of so verdant a place exist ing high up in the midst of a wilderness of snow and ice adds to the charm. Mr. Albert Smith ascended Mont Blanc in August, 1851. He underwent no training for the tremendous adventure, but started a few days after leaving his toil at the desk, and after having experienced a short illness. The party consisted of Mr. Smith, three young gentlemen, and the following guides: Jean Tairraz, elder, Jean Tairraz, Jean Carrier, Gedeon Balmat, Michael Couttel, Frederick Tairraz, Pierre Cachat, Michael Couttel, François Cachat, Joseph Tairraz, Joseph Tissay, Edward Carrier, Michael Devonassond, Auguste Devonassond, François Favret, and one other guide whose name is not recorded. They were well provided in every respect, and porters accompanied them a considerable distance, to carry the provisions. At an The first two hours of the ascent presented no remarkable features either of difficulty or prospect. The steep path ran upwards through a stunted copse of pines and shrubs. Proceeding in single file, the party at length reached the last habitation on the mountain, called the Chalet de la Pava. From this point the vegetation gradually became more scanty. enormous block of granite, called the Pierre Pointue, the party rested, and the knapsacks were re-adjusted, to prepare for the more perilous part of the ascent. They had now to climb along one of the ridges that hem-in the glaciers, in order to gain the ice. This part of the journey is said to require a strong head. The path is narrow, and upon one side is a precipice, down which few dare to look. The party descended into a ravine, and after a toilsome scramble among some loose boulders, gained the second station of the journey, a huge rock called Pierre à l'Echelle, under which a ladder is left from one year's end to the other, and is carried on by the guides, to assist them in passing the crevices on the glacier. The edge of the ice was still half an hour's walk beyond Pierre à l'Echelle. The party was so delighted with the view from the rock, and the exhilarating pureness of the air, that they remained there a short time, to eat a hearty meal and recruit their strength. Starting again, they were soon at the famous Glacier des Bossons, where they bade good-by to sure footing for the rest of the journey. If the crust of the snow is hard, the first part of the walk across this glacier is easy enough. Mr. Smith's party marched in single file, the guides taking the lead by turns. The dazzling whiteness of the snow, and the intense blue of the sky, were observed with surprise. Such was the blinding character of the light, that the veils and glasses usually worn by those who attempt the ascent were found to be great comforts. By degrees the road became more difficult. At length the glacier became so broken, and the crevices so frequent, that the guides tied the party together, leaving a space of about eight feet between each two men. The Glacier des Bossons is described as presenting more of the wild and awful in its upper portion than even the famous Mer de Glace. The alternate action of the nightly frost and the afternoon sun produces the most astonishing effects. Huge bergs, treacherous ridges, and awful crevices are frequent. The fissure that can be easily crossed one day becomes the next a yawning crevice of tremendous depth. The most experienced guide can have no fixed route over this terrible plain of ice. Mr. Smith's party made slow progress. The guides astonished the strangers by their daring leaps and sure-footedness, which the latter did not see proper to imitate. Where the crevice was small, all jumped over it; but where it was three or four feet in breadth, a bridge was made of the ladder, and they walked over on the rounds. One scramble is described as rather frightful. There was a valley of ice, very narrow, but of unknown depth. Along the middle of this there ran a cliff, also of ice, very narrow at the top, and ending suddenly, the surface of which was fifteen feet lower than the top of the valley on either side. The feet of the ladder were set firmly on the neck of the cliff, and the other end leaned against the wall of ice. Even then the top round was seven or eight feet below the top of the wall. One of the young guides went first with his axe, and contrived to get safely to the top. If he had fallen, he would have pulled the whole party down to destruction, as all were tied together. Over safe, he helped his comrades to ascend. Mr. Smith cut his wrist while being drawn up: this was the only accident that befell him during the journey. At this formidable crevice the porters refused to proceed any further, and set off on their way back to Chamouni. The party of adventurers was now on the ridge which divides the Glacier de Bossons from that of Taconnay. They proceeded with difficulty; but in the middle of the afternoon, they reached the famous place for a night bivouac-the lofty, conical rocks called the Grand Mulets. Here, according to Mr. Smith, they not only recruited their strength, but kept "high festival," eating, drinking, singing, and racing bottles down the glaciers. Sunset and night, as seen from this lofty station on Mont Blanc, are described by the enthusiastic adventurer who headed the party, as beautiful beyond all the visions evoked by opium or haschish. A little before midnight the guides began preparations for a renewal of the ascent. The bulk of the provisions was left upon the Grand Mulets. The moon being low, lanterns were brought into use. The march from the great rocks to the foot of the Grand Plateau is described as the heaviest part of the journey. About half-past three in the morning, the party stood safely upon the plateau. Two or three miles of nearly level walking succeeded, during which our adventurers had much difficulty in keeping themselves tolerably warm. Although physically the easiest, this was the most treacherous part of the ascent. A flake of snow, or a chip of ice, whirled from the summit, and increasing in size as it rolled down the mountain, might, at any moment, have swept the whole party into the same awful crevice in which Dr. Hamel's guides perished. At length Mr. Smith and his friends arrived under the shelter of the Rochers Rouges, and then they were in comparative safety. Here, however, one of the party gave up, being seized with vomiting and bleeding at the nose. A guide was left to take the sufferer back to the Grand Mulets, and the remainder of the party continued the ascent. From the foot of the Rochers Rouges there runs a huge and slanting buttress of ice, round which the party had to climb from the north-east to the east. Above, it terminated in a mighty cliff; below, it terminated suddenly in an edge which was believed to be the border of a great crevice. Every step of the way had to be hewn out with an axe. After a half-hour's work, the adventurers reached an undulating field of ice, looking straight down the Glacier du Tacul towards the upper part of the Mer de Glace. At this point, Mr. Smith was strangely affected with a sensation of drowsiness and the wildest fantasies. He proceeded on, however, until the party arrived at the foot of the terrible Mur de la Côte, where he sat down, and said the others might go on without him if they chose. Of course they would not consent. The guides, being used to such cases, set him on his legs again, and aided him in what was really the most difficult part of the ascent. The Mur de la Côte is described as an almost perpendicular wall of ice, four or five hundred feet high. At one point it can be reached from the snow; but immediately after you begin to ascend it obliquely, there is nothing below but a chasm in the ice more frightful than anything yet passed in the ascent. A single slip of the foot, and there is no chance for life. Every footstep had to be cut. Even the guides crept over the glistening ice with extreme caution. At length the foot of the calotte, or cap of Mont Blanc, was reached. The danger was over, but not the labour, for this dome of ice was difficult to climb. Mr. Smith was almost overcome with drowsinesss during this, the last part of the ascent; he has but an indistinct recollection of its incidents. Soon afterwards the batons were stuck in the ground. The party stood upon the top of Mont Blanc ! which the visitor to the Couvercle lets his eye travel to the summit of Mont Blanc. Away over the Col de Géant may be seen the plains of Lombardy. Of the entire coup d'œil, how ever, no descriptive power can convey even a faint conception. The descent of Mr. Smith's party was attended with much amusement. They occupied about three hours and a half in reaching the Grand Mulets, making their progress by sliding, tumbling, and short cuts. After refreshing themselves at the Grand Mulets, they continued the descent. Upon the Glacier des Bossons they encountered the greatest danger of the whole journey. The surface had melted into a perfect sludge. Every minute the bridges over the crevices were falling in, and the adventurers sank almost to their waists at every step they took. The guides insisted on tying the party together. All proceeded with extreme toil and difficulty. At length they reached the granite rock of Pierre à l'Echelle, and from that point the descent was mere play. The party was received at Chamouni with every manifestation of joy at the success of the expedition, and, for the time, Mr. Smith and his friends were the lions of the place. The expenses of the journey were summed up at 2,338 francs and 75 centimes, which was a small amount, considering the number of the party and the character of their equipment. The number of visitors to Mont Blanc increases in proportion to the improvement of the Chamouni entertain persons from all parts of facilities of travel. Every season the hotels at Europe and some portions of America. The number of those who attempt the ascent is sur prisingly few; but the wonders of the valley, which are far beyond everything of the kind to be seen in Europe, are attractions sufficient to render it a favourite resort for the admirers of the grand and beautiful in nature. To those who dare not attempt to stand upon the crown of Mont Blanc, the Brevent, the Mer de Glace, the numerous Aiguilles, and the beautiful banks of the Arve, offer charms which few persons of Let all who can, visit the valley of Chamouni, and render homage to a greater than Olympus-Mont Blanc, "the monarch of mountains." Mr. Smith informs us that the rarefaction of the air was nothing in comparison with what he had anticipated. The guides could drink cham-sensibility can resist. pagne, and smoke their pipes very comfortably; and they experienced no difficulty in breathing. Their faces, however, had a singular dark appearance, the result of congestion. The height greatly takes away from the interest of the view from the summit of this great mountain. All the great points in the neighbourhood of Chamouni-the Buet, the Aiguille Verte, the Col du Bonhomme, and even the Bernese Alps stand forth clear enough, but the other second class mountains seem like mere ridges. The lofty Brevent can scarcely be distinguished, and many of the Aiguilles are weak or merged in the landscape. The entire length of the Lake of Geneva, with the Jura beyond, is clearly defined, and beyond these may be seen the faint blue hills of Burgundy. On the south-east you may look down on the Jardin, along the same glacier by SONG OF THE SERF. I know a lofty lady, And she is wondrous fair; The foliage into play, T. B. READ. |