of London by Visscher, of which a reproduction adorns these pages. In the library the study of Shakespeare's London, which has been here attempted, may be infinitely extended. Among the treasures of the museum is the deed of mortgage of Shakespeare's house in Blackfriars, bearing the poet's signature and the date March 11, 1612-13. Starting from the museum on a tour of the vestiges and sites of Shakespeare's London, we walk across Bloomsbury Square, and at the corner of Theobalds Road and Southampton Row, we may take the tram for Shoreditch. In Shakespeare's time this Theobalds Road was so named, because it was the road to Theobalds in Hertfordshire, the seat of the Queen's Lord Treasurer Burghley, later the favourite hunting-seat of James I. From the top of the tram on a fine day (and it is better not to attempt such a tour unless the weather is fine), we have an excellent view of the gardens of Gray's Inn, and may see the nests of the rooks (p. 106), the wall which formerly shut in the gardens having been recently removed and replaced by iron railings. We cross Gray's Inn Lane, a mere village street when Shakespeare lived in London (p. 106). As the tram goes over the metropolitan rail way we have, on our right, a fine view of the dome and spires of St Paul's; on our left, beyond the Sessions House, we see the Church of St James, the parish church of Clerkenwell. Outside the churchyard wall was the well where the parish clerks of London used to assemble for the performance of plays founded on Scripture History.* This conjunction of the clerks and the well gave rise to the name Clerkenwell. Near the church lived Sir John Oldcastle, Lord Cobham, expressly declared by Shakespeare to be not the original of Falstaff (Epilogue, "Henry IV.," part 2). Our destination is Shoreditch; but a slight detour will enable us to glance at some relics which Shakespeare may have visited before us. At St John's Square, therefore, some few yards distant, we leave the tram: we can take another car, farther on the road, presently. Now on our left is the Church of St John, Clerkenwell, thus described on a mural inscription: "Being the Remains of the Choir, over the original crypt of the Priory Church of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, consecrated A.D. 1185." Some remains of the crypt are visible within the railings; the church and the crypt may be inspected Early London Theatres, pp. 8 et seq. * on application. Leaving the church we cross St John's Square, and there in front of us is the ancient gateway, which was the southern entrance of the Priory. Passing under St John's Gateway, up St John's Lane and St John's Street, we reach Charterhouse Street. On our left is the Charterhouse, before us is Smithfield, a road leading through the market to the open space called West Smithfield. There on our left is Cloth Fair, where a fair was held every Bartholomew tide, which Shakespeare may have witnessed, and which Ben Jonson celebrated in his play of "Bartholomew Fair." * Just beyond is the entrance to the splendid church of St Bartholomew the Great, in which Shakespeare may, or may not, have mused upon the ancient ecclesiastical glories of England. Returning through the market again to Charterhouse Street, we turn to the right, and there, a few yards off, is Charterhouse Square, and the entrance to the Charterhouse, a corruption of Chartreuse. Here in 1611 Thomas Sutton founded the famous "hospital, chapel and schoolhouse," on the site of the House of the ancient Carthusian order. After the Reformation the place became a * Early London Theatres, pp. 219-25. lordly residence. Here Queen Elizabeth stayed after leaving Hatfield, on her accession. When Shakespeare was in London the house belonged to the Earl of Suffolk, who sold it to Sutton. In spite of the big hotel, whose height mars the effect of the ancient buildings, this is one of the most delightful spots of old London. Crossing the square into Carthusian Street, we enter Aldersgate Street and turn to the left. The end of Aldersgate Street, the limit of the city jurisdiction, is marked by two fountains, which replace the "pair of posts" standing here in Shakespeare's time, according to Stow. becomes Goswell Road. we see the cross-roads. From this point the road A little way farther and At the corner of Old Street we enter a Shoreditch tramcar, and so resume the journey we interrupted at St John's Square. At the church of St Leonard we alight and our perambulation begins. For a picture of the church which stood on this spot in Shakespeare's time, see ante facing p. 216. Here were laid to rest some famous players and associates of Shakespeare (pp. 215-18) Richard Tarleton, James James Burbage, Richard Burbage. Going up the High Street, towards Bishopsgate, we see presently on our right New Inn Yard, and a little farther on, Holywell Street. Lying between these is the site we are now to visit. Turning into Holywell Lane, it is strange to reflect that in this unlovely neighbourhood stood once the ancient priory of Holywell, and near by the playhouses with which Shakespeare was associated in the early days of his dramatic career in London. Not a vestige of the old order remains; but there are the names. We pass up Holywell Lane and under a railway bridge; on our right is |