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camels moved up into a line of twelve or fifteen abreast, and the whole of our caravan began to move with tolerable speed. The contrast between this and the sandhills was very exhilarating, though even those had not been unpleasing, while they had novelty to recommend them. In the course of the day we were overtaken by a subject of Bahawul Khaun's, who had lost his way in tracking some camels carried off in an excursion of the Raujpoots, had exhausted his skin of water, and had tasted no food for two days. We fed and put him on a camel. Before dark, we met a party of one hundred and fifty soldiers on camels, belonging to Bahawul Khaun, the chief of one of the king of Caubul's eastern provinces. There were two men on each camel, and each had a long and glittering matchlock. They advanced and saluted in three or four very good lines. Their camels seemed as manageable as horses, and their appearance was altogether novel and striking; their commander had a long beard, and was dressed in a Persian tunic of buff broad cloth, with gold buttons, and a low cap like the crown of a hat. He was mounted on an excellent, light, speedy, and easy camel, with a very showy saddle and two reins, one passing through a hole in each nostril of the camel. His language was scarcely intelligible to any of our party. He brought us one hundred camels, carrying four hundred skins of water from Moujghur. He had also four brazen jars of water from the Hyphasis, which was intended for our own drinking, and was sealed up with the Khaun's signet. We soon after encamped in the midst of the desart, about twenty-six miles from Pooggul. We enjoyed the water of the Hyphasis extremely, and were all delighted with the new people we were getting among, and the new scenes we were approaching.

On the 22d, we made a march of thirty miles to Moujgur; the heat of the afternoon was intense, while we halted as úsual in the naked plain, to give our people some water, and to take some refreshment ourselves. In the course of the day several hundred skins of water came to us from Moujgur, where Bahawul Khaun had sent his principal officers to receive

us.

Towards evening many persons were astonished with the appearance of a long

lake, enclosing several little islands; notwithstanding the well known nature of the country, many were positive that it was a lake; and one of the surveyors took the bearings of it. It was, however, only one of those illusions which the French call mirage, and the Persians sirraub. I had imagined this phenomenon to be occasioned by a thin vapour (or something resembling a vapour), which is seen over the ground in the hot weather in India, but this appearance was entirely different, and, on looking along the ground, no vapour whatever could be perceived. The ground was quite level and smooth, composed of dried mud or clay, mixed with particles of sparkling sand: there were some tufts of grass, and some little bushes of rue, &c. at this spot, which were reflected as in water, and this appearance continued at the ends, when viewed from the middle. I shall not attempt to account for this appearance, but shall merely remark, that it seems only to be found in level, smooth, and dry places. The position of the sun with reference to the spectator, appears to be immaterial. I thought at first that great heat always accompanied its appearance; but it was afterwards seen in Damaun, when the weather was not hotter than is experienced in England.

About sun-set we descried the high wall and towers of Moujgur, with a conspicuous mosque which stands over the gateway, and a tomb with a cupola, ornamented with painted tiles, resembling, as I was told, the tombs of Imaumzaddahs in Persia. We arrived a little after dark, and encamped near the fort, which is small and weak. We remained here two days, taking in water. Bahawul Khaun's Dewaun, and another of his officers, who joined us here, were Hindoos, the third was a Moullah of Moultaun, whose dress, language, and manners, were very like those of Persia. Even the Hindoos sometimes used the Persian idiom in speaking Hindoostanee, and the Dewaun looked and spoke more like a Per sian Moollah than a Hindoo. On the 25th of November, we marched twentyseven miles to two wells in the desart. In the way we saw a most magnificent mirage, which looked like an extensive lake, or a very wide river. The water seemed clear and beautiful, and the figures

of two gentlemen who rode along it, were reflected as distinctly as in real water. A small but neat tower was seen in this march, and we were told it was a place of refuge for travellers, against the predatory hordes who infest the route of caravans. There were some stunted bushes of the Mimosa Arabica on the march, and at the ground was something that might be called a tree.

We have lengthened the preceding extract, in order to include the description of a second mirage, that singular and beautiful, though, to the thirsty traveller, cruel phenonemon of the desart.

As we have just intimated, Mr. E.'s portraits delight us much; and, of all others, the simple, generous, and hospitable character of the Khan of Bahawulpore has fixed our particular regard. It is, indeed, a picture upon which we may excusably love to gaze, surrounded as it is with so many traits of vice and crime, of disorder and oppression, as present themselves in the short narrative before us. With this apology, we shall extract what relates to our favourite Khan, as also to his city, country and people:

On the 26th, we marched at day-light, and passed over low and bare hills of loose sand, and bottoms of hard clay, till after having travelled twelve miles, we perceived something stretched across in front of us, which soon after appeared to be trees. We then pushed on with increased alacrity, and soon reached a place where the desart and the cultivated country were separated as if by a line. A long row of trees ran along the edge of the sands; and beyond it, were clumps of trees, green fields, and wells of abundant and clear water, with houses, and every sign of fertility and cultivation. One of the first things we saw was a well, worked by a Persian wheel, which was pouring out water in the greatest abundance. The trees, though only low tamarisk, seemed enchanting to us; and every thing was welcome after our five weeks sojourn in

the desart. We past for a mile and a half under the walls of Bahawulpore, which, as well as the roads, were crowded with spectators, who, in their turn, afforded no uninteresting spectacle to us. A striking difference was observable between them and the people on the east of the desart. Those we now saw, were strong, dark, harsh featured; had their hair and beards long; wore caps oftener than turbans; and spoke a language, entirely unintelligible to our Hindoostauny attendants. The better sort wore the dress, and affected the manners of Persia. After

crossing a small canal, and passing through some fields, we left the woods, and at length reached the banks of the Hyphasis. I was much disappointed in the breadth of the river, as well as with the appearance of its shores; but it was impossible to look without interest on a stream which had borne the fleet of Alexander.

On the next day but one, Bahawul Khaun arrived, having come forty miles on purpose to shew attention to the mission. Indeed his whole conduct from the time we approached his frontier, shewed a spirit of kindness and hospitality which could not be surpassed, nor did it cease when we left this country; for, even after we had passed the Indus, he continued to send us intelligence, and to take every opportunity of showing us attention. In our first intercourse with him, we began to determine the presents to be made, expecting to have a long struggle against his rapacity, as is usual on such occasions in most parts of India; but we soon found we had to encounter a difficulty of another kind. Bahawul Khaun would take nothing without a negociation; while he was anxious to shew his own liberality to an extent which we were unwilling to admit.

On the day of his arrival, he sent eighty sheep, one hundred maunds of flour, and other articles of the same kind. Next day, he sent one hundred pots of sweetmeats, a vast number of baskets of oranges, ten bags of almonds and raisins, and five bags, each containing 1000 rupees (equal to £120) to be given to the servants. I was a little embarrassed by this last piece of hospitality; but was obliged to submit, on condition that the Khaun's servants should accept a similar donation from me.

On the 29th, Mr. Strachey and Capt. Raper paid a visit to the Khaun, and returned charmed with the polite and cordial reception he gave them. Among other conversation, he praised the King of Caubul highly; but said he had never seen him. "He feared the snows of "Caubul, and was besides a dweller of "the desart, and unworthy to appear "before so great a monarch." On the 1st of December, he came to my tent. He was a plain, open, pleasant man, about forty-five or fifty years of age: he had on a white tunic, with small gold buttons, over which was a wide mantle of very rich and beautiful gold brocade : on his head was a cap of brockade, and over it a lougee (or silk turban), twisted loosely. About six of his attendants sat, the rest stood round, and were well dressed, and respectable. Our conversation turned on India and England, and lasted till the Khaun remarked it was getting late.

On the 2d, I returned his visit. The streets were crowded to an incredible degree, and the terraced tops of the houses were covered with spectators. They left the part of the street through which we were to pass quite clear; and, except now and then an exclamation of surprize when we came in sight, they kept a profound silence. The Khaun received us in a handsome room with attic windows, round which a neat and orderly company were seated on a Persian carpet. He conversed freely on all subjects: said he had never seen the King, and please God he never would; he could live in his desart and hunt his deer, and had no desire to follow courts. He shewed me a curious clock, made by one of his own people. The works seemed very good. The bell was below the works; and the whole was in a case of gold, with very thick chrystal sides. He also shewed an excellent gun lock, made at Bahawulpoor, He gave me two fine hawks, some greyhounds, two horses (one with gold, and the other with enamelled trappings), a very beautiful matchlock, richly enamelled, with a powder flask in the English model, and some trays of cloths of the place.

On the 4th, we marched. Bahawul Khaun seut out a tent into the neighbourhood of ours, where we had a parting meeting while our last baggage was

crossing the river. He introduced the mechanic who made the clock, and presented me to several persons, who he said were Ulema (or Mahomedan school divines). Afterwards, he retired to a carpet at some distance from the tents with Mr. Strachey and me; and there spoke fully on all subjects, giving me all the advice and information in his power. He ended, by saying, that, as he was the first subject of Khorassaun with whom we had met, he hoped we would preserve the remembrance of him after we had extended our acquaintance. We took leave of him with great regret. He had been liberal and kind to us during our stay, without over civility or ceremony; and, he had an appearance of sincerity in every thing he said, which made his shew of friendship the more agreeable.

"Before we reached Moultan," adds Mr. E. a little further on,

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we were overtaken by twentyfive camels, sent us by the Bahawul Khan. That chief is famous for his camels, some of which he keeps for his own use, and always hunts Mr. E. thus desupon them." cribes Bahawulpore and its inhabitants :

The town is about four miles in circumference ; but there are gardens of mangoe trees within the walls. The houses are of unburnt bricks, with terraces of mud: the city wall is of mud, and very thin. Bahawulpoor is remarkable for the manufacture of lougees, or silken girdles, and turbans. The inhabitants of this, and all the neighbouring countries on the west and north, are principally Juts aud Beloches, who profess the Mahommedan religion. There are more Hindoos at Bahawulpoor than any of the other provinces the mission passed through: Afghauns are foreigners there.

And thus, the environs and the river :

The country, for four or five miles on each side of the Hyphasis, is formed of the slime, deposited by the river. It is very rich, and often so soft that it cannot be ridden on. Some parts are highly cultivated, and others are covered with coppice of low tamarisk, in which are

many wild boars, and hog deer; wild geese, partridges, florikens, and other game are also abundant on the banks of the river.

The river winds much at this place, and is very muddy, but the water, when cleared, is excellent. It is here called the Gharra, and is formed by the joint streams of the Hyphasis, or Begah, and Hysudrus, or Sutledge.

Very different from the frank and unsuspecting deportment of the Khan of Bahawulpore was that of the Governor of Moultan, who did but act, however, upon the doubts entertained by his sovereign, and by the several Afghan provinces respectively, on the objects of the British Mission:

The city of Moultaun stands about four miles from the left bank of the Chenaub, or Ascesines. It is above four miles and a half in circumference. It is surrounded with a fine wall, between forty and fifty feet high, with towers at regular distances. It has also a citadel on a rising ground, and several fine tombs, particu larly two, with very high cupolas, ornamented with the painted and glazed tile already noticed, which altogether give it a magnificent appearance. These tombs are seen from a great distance all round the town. Moultaun is famous for its silks, and for a sort of carpet much inferior to those of Persia. The country immediately round the city was very pleasing, fertile, well cultivated, and well watered from wells. The people were like those at Bahawulpoor, except that there were more men who looked like Persians mixed with them; these, however, were individuals, and chiefly horsemen.

The mission remained for nineteen days in the neighbourhood of Moultaun, and as most of the party were out almost every day from seven or eight to three or four, shooting, hunting, or hawking, we had good opportunities of observing the country. The land was flat, and the soil excellent, but a large proportion of the villages were in ruins, and there were other signs of a well cultivated country going to decay; about one half was still cultivated, and most abundantly watered by Persian wheels; the produce was

wheat, millet, cotton, turnips, carrots, and indigo. The trees were chiefly neem (melia azadarachta), and date, with here and there a peepul (ficus religiosa) tree. The uncultivated country near the river was covered with thick copse-wood of tamarisk, mixed with a tree like a willow, about twenty feet high; at a distance from the river, it was bare, except for scattered tufts of long grass, and here and there a date tree. The country abounded in game of all kinds. The weather was delightful during our stay; the thermometer, when at the lowest, was at 28° at sun-rise; there were slight frosts in the night, but the days were rather warm.

We come, now, to the account of the timid governor. The sketch is taken from nature, and is alive :—

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Mr. Strachey went to meet the governor, and found him mounted on a white horse, with gold trappings, attended by his officers and favourites, surrounded with large standards, and escorted by two hundred horse, and three thousand foot. The dust, crowd, and confusion of the meeting, are represented by Mr. Strachey, as beyond all description. The governor welcomed Mr. Strachey according to the Persian custom, after which they joined, and proceeded to the tent, the pressure and disorder increasing as they went. In some places men were fighting, and in others people were ridden down; Mr. Strachey's own horse was nearly borne to the ground, and only recovered himself by a violent exertion. When they approached the tent, they missed the road, came in front of the line of troops, and rushed on the cavalry with such impetuosity, that there was barely time to wheet back, so as to allow a passage. In this manner the tide poured on towards the tent; the line of servants were swept away, the skreens were torn down, and trampled under foot, and even the tent ropes were assailed with such fury, that the whole tent was nearly struck over our heads. The inside was crowded and darkened in an instant. The governor and about ten of his companions sat, the rest seemed to be armed attendants; and, indeed, the governor seemed to have attended to nothing but the number of his guards. He sat but for a very short

time, during the whole of which he was telling his beads with the utmost fervency, and addressing me with "You are welcome, you are very welcome," as fast as he could repeat the words. At last, he said he was afraid the crowd must annoy me, and withdrew. Surafrauz Khaun was a good looking young man, he wore the Persian dress, with a cap and a shawl turban over it, and spoke very good Persian. His attendants were large, fair, and handsome Afghauns, most of them very well dressed, but in no sort of order or discipline. On the same evening I returned his visit, and found him sitting under an awning, on a terrace, in one of his gardens. He had a large company sitting with him in good order. They differed greatly in appearance from the natives of India, but were neither so handsomely dressed, nor so decorous as Persians. The Nabob being now free from alarm, was civil, and agreeable enough.

Mr. E.'s stay at Moultan presents us with an anecdote too striking to pass unnoticed :

My intercourse with one person deserves to be mentioned, as characteristic of the government of Moultaun. Secunder Khaun, the Nabob's uncle, being once hunting near my camp, sent to me, to say that he had enclosed three wild boars within his nets, and to beg that I would come and join in the chace of them. I thought it prudent to excuse myself, but I sent a native gentleman with a civil message, some fine gunpowder, and a spy-glass. Secunder Khaun returned me an indifferent horse, and sent a boar to be hunted at leisure. Thus far all was well, but two days afterwards, he sent back my present, and desired to have his horse back, as he was in danger of being confined, or put to death for intriguing with the English.

Having crossed the Ascecines, or Chunab, (the Hydaspes of ancient story) and approached the Indus, the embassy now "first discerned the mountains of Afghaunistaun," which rise parallel to, and the west of the course of the last-mentioned famous stream:

The Indus, besides its great name, and the interest it excites as the boundary of India, was rendered a noble object by its own extent, and by the lofty hills which formed the back ground of the view. We were, however, a little disappointed in its appearance, owing to an island, which divided it, and impaired the effect of its stream. There were other islands and sand banks in the river; but near the side where we stood, it came up to the edge, and seemed deep and rapid. While on the banks of the river, we met a native, to whose conversation, and that of the guide, we listened with great interest and curiosity. The plains on the opposite shore we found were inhabited by Beloches, and the mountains by the Sheeraunees, a fierce and turbulent tribe. On the other side of the range were tribes and places, of which we had never heard the names; while those we had learned from our maps, were equally new to our informants. All we could learn was, that

beyond the hills was something wild, strange, and new, which we might hope one day to explore.

From Oodoo da Kote, near which we first saw the Indus, to the ferry of Kaheeree, where we crossed it, is about seventy-five miles. It is a narrow tract, contested between the river and the desart. If in hunting, we were led many miles to the west of the road, we got into branches of the river, and troublesome quicksands, among thickets of tamarisk or of reeds; and, if we went as far to the right, the appearance of sand, and even in some places of sand hills, admonished us of the neighbourhood of the desart. Many parts, however, were cultivated, with great pains and method, and produced good crops of wheat, barley, turnips, and cotton. The fields were always enclosed either with hedges of dry thorn, with hurdles of willow, or with fences, made of stiff mats of reeds, supported by stakes. The houses were often built of the same material. We were struck with the neatness of the farm-yards, so unlike those of Hindostan. They were regularly enclosed; had gates of three or four bars; and contained sheds for the cattle, dung-hills, &c. It was also new to us to observe

hand-barrows, and to see oxen fed with turnips. Some of the houses near the

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