A BRIGHTER sun never shone upon a hap- where the hull of the Franklin, like a huge skel

We stood directly for Port au Basque, where we expected to find the Sarah L. Bryant, with the cable on board; but on reaching that place, on Sunday morning, our anxious gaze was not rewarded by the sight of the bark. She had not yet arrived, although two weeks over-due. This was a great disappointment to all, as the weather was propitious for laying the cable, and it was the intention to commence the task early on Monday morning.

cided to stand off and on till morning. The | land, as far as St. John's, the place of our ultisea rose high, the wind blew a gale, and our mate destination. gallant steamer rolled so heavily that all were forced to retire to their berths. In the morning, which broke clear and beautiful, we found ourselves about twenty-five miles to the south of Sambro' Light, and taking a pilot on board, were soon steaming up the harbor of Halifax, of which the Nova Scotians are so justly proud. The entrance is protected by a fort and martello tower, built on a small island about two miles in circumference, about half a mile from the city, which stands on the side of a hill commanding a splendid view of the harbor. On the summit of the hill a large and apparently impregnable fort is in process of construction. Some six hundred soldiers are already quartered in it.

It was for some time a question whether, under the circumstances, we should wait at Port au Basque for the arrival of the Sarah L. Bryant, or proceed to St. John's. As we intended to visit the latter place before returning, in order to pay our respects to the authorities of Newfoundland, it was decided to go there at once, and after a short stay return for the Sarah L. Bryant at Port au Basque. During the three or four hours we lay outside the harbor, about a dozen of us went on shore, with a view of find

As soon as our ship touched the wharf, nearly the whole of our party rushed on shore, and immediately spread themselves about the town, bent on seeing all the lions of the place at once, to the no little astonishment of the natives, who regarded our Yankee peculiarities withing out what manner of men and things the much curiosity. We soon ransacked the city, visited every public building or place worthy of notice, and by engaging every carriage we could press into our service, obtained in a few hours a pretty clear idea of the place, the people, and their character and condition. Some of our party visited a French frigate lying in the harbor, and were received very kindly by the officers on board. We left Halifax about half past seven in the evening, amidst loud cheering from the people who had gathered on the wharf, which was returned by the party on board the James Adger with three times three and a "tiger," which rather astonished them. Before leaving we took on board a pilot thoroughly acquainted with the coast of Cape Breton and Newfound

place produced. It is little more than a village, containing some forty or fifty houses, built of wood, most of them two stories high. About a dozen of them are grouped together, while the rest are scattered over an area of over half a mile, giving one an idea that the houses are on bad terms with each other. The site on which this unsociable-looking place is built commands a very fine view of the surrounding country to the distance of six or seven miles. On the north rises the high promontory of Cape Ray, to the height of fifteen hundred feet. The country seems to be almost entirely destitute of vegetation, though a little turf here and there forms a pleasant relief to the general barren aspect, while a few low stunted bushes, bearing a

brown berry, are scattered in small clusters at | Neither of these defenses, however, looked as distant intervals. However, what the place though they were capable of offering a very lacks in vegetation it makes up in fish. The strong resistance, but the narrow entrance is people fish for a living, and live on fish. Fish amply protected by other works. During the for breakfast, fish for dinner, toujours fish. last war a heavy iron chain was stretched across There are fish every where, in-doors and out, this entrance to prevent the passage of hostile where they are piled up in immense stacks, ships, the remains of which, and an old cannon looking like ricks of hay, but smelling like any or two, called to our minds the fact that an thing but "the perfume of Araby the blest." American ship would not always have been alThe people seem neither to know nor care about lowed to pass so quietly. Opposite Signal Hill any thing else than fish, and twist the conver-rises another elevation, to the height of about sation how you will, it is sure to come back to, six hundred feet, which bears upon its side a fish. All is fish that comes to their net, and so formidable-looking fort, while still another fortilong as plenty come, they bother themselves fication has been erected at its base, from the very little about other matters. centre of which rises a light-house. These narrows are less than half a mile broad at their widest part, and about a mile long. When about the middle of this narrow gorge we notified the good people of St. John's of our approach by a salute, which was echoed and reechoed a hundred times among the hills, making "an awful pother o'er our heads" for some time.

After a consultation with Mr. Canning, one of the best engineers in England, who had been engaged by the Telegraph Company to superintend the laying down of the wires, we left Port au Basque for St. John's, where we arrived, without any incident transpiring worthy of note, on the morning of the 14th.

The entrance to the harbor of St. John's and the surrounding scenery are remarkable for their beauty and sublimity. The island is protected on its eastern side by the same bold, mountainous line of coast that characterize the whole southern extremity of it. The rocks rise precipitously to the height of seven or eight hundred feet directly from the water, which is sufficiently deep to enable even the largest ships to pass in safety within a few feet of their rugged and deeply-seamed sides, which are perforated at their base with large caves; and a romantic imagination might find amusement in peopling them with bold smugglers and wild buccaneers.

The entrance to the harbor is so concealed from the view, when but a short distance out at sea, that it was not observable till we had approached within half a mile of it. Signal Hill rises to the right, on the summit of which stands a fortification, while another frowns at its base.

The city of St. John's presents a very picturesque appearance, being built on the side of a hill with a gradual ascent of about two hundred and fifty feet, overlooking the beautiful harbor, which has the appearance of a lake after you have passed the narrow entrance. Large hills rise on every side, upon which the fishermen's huts, each surrounded by a green garden spot, are scattered here and there, taking from the natural wildness of the scene. At the base of these hills are erected the stages, or "flakes," where the codfish are cleaned and cured, preparatory to being packed for market. These stages are made of light poles, and sometimes stand on the sides of steep rocks overlooking the water.

We were most hospitably received by the authorities and citizens of St. John's, who are very anxious to extend their present limited commercial intercourse with us, and regard the

Transatlantic Telegraphic enterprise as a power- | authorities of St. John's. The military band ful means of bringing about such a result. During our stay among them they seemed to vie with each other in paying us attention; every vehicle was put out at our disposal, and pressing invitations poured in upon us from all sides to accept the hospitality of their houses. Our limited stay, however, prevented us from accepting half of them.

There are no public buildings in St. John's that are remarkable, either for their size or architectural beauty, if we except the Catholic Cathedral, which is a magnificent building of fine proportions, and capable of containing at least ten thousand persons. Its cost was over half a million of dollars.

from the garrison was in attendance, and about one hundred persons, including the party on board the James Adger, participated in the festivities of the occasion. Peter Cooper, Esq., the President of the Telegraph Company, presided, supported by Mr. Field as Vice-President. On this occasion Professor Morse, in reply to a toast in his honor, entered into a brief history of the telegraph, and the many obstacles which were thrown in his way on his first application to Congress for an appropriation to enable him to construct an experimental line between Washington and Baltimore. Other speeches were made and listened to, and then we joined the ladies in the saloon, where the song and the dance wound up the evening in the most delightful manner. On the following evening the authorities of St. John's returned the compliment by a splendid ball in our honor in the Colonial Buildings. It was a delightful occasion, and the bright eyes of the fair maids of St. John's left an impression upon the hearts of more than one of the bachelors of our party On the evening of the 15th a grand banquet that will not soon be obliterated. We were to was given on board the steamer to the public | have left for Port au Basque the next morning,

The Colonial Building is a square structure of granite, two stories high. It contains the chambers of the two Legislative branches, the House of Assembly, and the Legislative Council. A short distance from this building stands the Governor's house, where the recently appointed Governor, Mr. Charles H. Darling, resides.

but the Telegraph Company, wishing to make About a mile and a half from St. John's is some return for the generous hospitality which the small fishing village of Quidi Vidi, where had been extended to us, postponed our de- reside those hardy sons of toil whose labors supparture till Saturday, and invited two hundred ply the city of St. John's with its great staple, of the principal inhabitants to participate in an Codfish. The Newfoundland fisheries first grew excursion on board the James Adger. Accord-into importance about the year 1596, and in ingly, with our guests on board, we proceeded 1615 England had at Newfoundland 250 ships, about ten miles outside the harbor. After a and the French, Biscayans, and Portuguese delightful day, which will ever be remembered 400 ships. The French always viewed the by all who participated in its varied enjoyments, we returned to the harbor, where we bade farewell to our guests, and the hospitable city of St. John's, and steered our course for Port au Basque to join the Sarah L. Bryant.

participation of the English in these fisheries with great jealousy. It was a maxim of the French Government, that the North American fisheries were of more natural value, in regard to navigation and power, than the gold mines