PHYSICAL ASPECT OF VICTORIA PROVINCE. 583 withstanding the mountain chains and thority of Count Strzelecki, we find the ridges of various extent and considerable elevation by which it is traversed. The whole territory is, generally speaking, well watered. The Murray, which rises in the Australian Alps, receives in its course various other rivers which flow over extensive plains in directions nearly parallel to its own, and thus irrigate and fertilize a great extent of rich land. Hills of moderate elevation occupy the central country, being thinly or partially wooded and covered with the richest pasturage. The lower country, both on the northern and southern skirts of these hills, is chiefly open; and on the south undulates slightly towards the coast. The grassy plains which extend northward from these thinly wooded hills to the banks of the Murray, are chequered by the channels of many streams falling from them, and by the more permanent and extensive waters of deep lagoons, which are numerous on the face of these plains, "as if," says Sir Thomas Mitchell, "intended by a bounteous providence to correct the deficiencies of a climate otherwise too dry for an industrious and increasing people, by preserving in these abundant reservoirs the surplus waters of the large river; and indeed a finer country for cattle stations than this can scarcely be imagined." In the western portion small rivers radiate from the Grampians, an elevated and isolated mass, presenting no impediment to a free communication through the fine country around its base. Hence the enormous labour necessary in order to obtain access to some parts, and for crossing continuous ranges to reach others, by passes like those so essential to the prosperity of New South Wales, may be in great measure dispensed with in Victoria. Towards the sea-coast on the south, and adjacent to the open downs between the Grampians and Port Phillip, there is a low tract of very rich black soil, apparently the best imaginable for the cultivation of grain in such a climate.* chain resuming a south-west direction, and still maintaining a bold though less elevated outline. Its intricate branchings on either side, with their peaked summits, render the country rugged and sterile, excepting the neighbourhood of Lake Omeo, and a part of the Mitta Mitta valley, lying between the spur crowned by Mount Yabbara, and that surmounted by Mount Ajuk, a tract resembling a vast basin, without trees, and scantily supplied with water, but covered, even during a parching summer, with luxurious pasture. The whole region westward of the chain, towards Western Port, is rent by narrow gullies, rendered well-nigh inaccessible, either by the steepness of the ridges by which they are flanked or the thickly interwoven underwood. Eastward of the chain, in the direction of Corner Inlet, the country presents very different features. In 37° S. lat., or about the sources of the river Thomson, the spurs are less ramified, and of considerable height and length, shaping the intermediate ground into beautiful slopes and valleys, which ultimately resolve into an open and well-watered plain, clothed with nutritious grasses, adorned with fine timber, and offering charming sites for farms or country residences. The spur which bounds the southern limit of that area, and another, which, on the western side of the chain, studs the territory of Australia Felix, and the neighbouring district of Western Port, with some remarkable eminences, again change the face of the country, and constitute a broken inhospitable region, frequently unsupplied with water, and almost always ill furnished with either quadrupeds or birds. In the vicinity of Coroner Inlet (Gipp's Land), the chain of mountains dips under a low and marshy ground, above which its crest appears rising only at intervals. Ten miles beyond, it is seen again, erect, jutting out boldly into the sea, and exposing its granitic flanks for a length of thirty miles to the lash of the infuriated surf. At Wilson's Promontory, the sea interferes with the visible continuity of the range, but does not terminate its course, which in clear weather may be traced from the headland by the chain of islands in Bass's Straits. These islands, whether high and crowned with peaks, or low and crested only by the white sparkling foam of the sea, appear, in their winding and lengthened array, like the glittering snow-capped domes of the 584 AUSTRALIAN ALPS, GRAMPIANS, AND PYRENEES. Andes, when seen above the dense clouds which encompass their lower region.* The Australian Alps cover an area of about 7,000 square miles. country just as much as eye could wish."+ Mount Arapiles lies to the north-west of Mount Zero. This mass, the western extremity of which has somewhat the appearance of a ruined fortress, consists of a sandstone passing into quartz. It occupies an area of about two square miles, and may be easily recognised, both by its isolated position, and by its small companion, the Mitre rock, situated midway between it and the lake to the northward, named Mitre lake. The highest summit of Mount Arapiles is 726 feet above Mitre lake. Thirty or forty miles to the eastward of the Grampians is a granitic range called the Pyrenees, thinly wooded with very lofty timber, and grassy to their summits; they terminate, to the southward, in Mount Cole. About fifty miles to the eastward of the Pyrenees is a range called the Bunninyong, or Brisbane range, running north and south, and traversing nearly a degree of latitude. The Grampians form the leading features of the country westward of Port Phillipthey are a lofty and extensive mass comprising three ranges, and covering a surface which extends latitudinally fifty-four miles, and longitudinally twenty miles. The extreme eastern and highest summit is Mount William, in height 4,500 feet above the sea. The most northern point is Mount Zero, in 36° 52′ 3′′ S. lat. The most southern, Mount Sturgeon, in 37° 38′ S. lat., rises 1,070 feet above the level of the plain, from which it springs like a perpendicular rock from the midst of the ocean. The most northern and elevated range extends from Mount William to Mount Zero, and is steepest on the northern side. From this hill the two other ranges branch off to the south, the western being named by Mitchell the Victoria range, and the eastern the Serra, from its serrated outline. On the slopes of the northern range are some forests of fine timber, but, in general, the higher summits are bare and rocky. Mount Abrupt, the south-eastern extremity of the Grampians, is 1,700 feet in perpendicular height; it contains a crater of 446 feet in breadth, the average depth being eighty feet. Mitchell describes the prospect he beheld from the summit as a truly sublime scene, the whole of the mountains quite clear of clouds, the grand outline of the more distant masses blending with the sky, and forming a blue and purple background for the numerous peaks of the range on which he stood, and which consisted of sharp cones and perpen-marking the extreme points of the base line dicular cliffs foreshortened, so as to form one feature only of the extensive landscape, but composing a crescent nearly thirty miles in extent; this range being but a branch from the more lofty masses of Mount William, which crowned the whole. The view includes a vast extent of open plains fringed with forests, and embellished with lakes. "Certainly," says Sir Thomas, with an enthusiasm very natural under the circumstances, a land more favourable for colonization could not be found. Flocks might be turned out upon its hills, or the plough at once set agoing in the plains. No primeval forests require to be first rooted out here, although there was enough of wood for all purposes of utility, and adorning the • Strzelecki's New South Wales. The Mount Macedon range commences about thirty-five miles north-north-west of Melbourne. Mount Macedon, properly so called, is one of the principal mountains in the province, clothed with trees (chiefly black butt and blue gum eucalypti), measuring from six to eight feet in diameter to its very summit, about 3,000 feet high, which is spacious, easily accessible, even on horseback, and covered, towards the south, with the tree-fern, musk, and other plants found at the Illawarra, New South Wales. Mounts Campbell and Byng are two conspicuous eminences to the northward, which, with Mount Macedon, form the figure of a triangle-the latter being the apex, the former to the north-east and north-west. Mount Hope (considerably to the north of Mount Byng) belongs to a group of low granitic hills, of which it forms the western extremity. It is composed of immense blocks of granite, and obtained its name from Sir Thomas Mitchell, who after several months spent in traversing the dead levels of the interior, hoped from its summit to obtain an extensive view of the region between him and the coast. How much the prospect exceeded his highest expectations, may be readily conceived, for the fair and fertile region he then beheld, was that which he afterwards designated Australia Felix. Pyramid hill, about six miles from Mount Hope, rises about 300 feet above the plain, in the form of a tri+ Expeditions into Australia. THE HUME OR MURRAY, AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. angular pyramid, and being quite isolated, closely resembles the monuments of Egypt. Its apex is formed by a single block of granite. To the northward of Portland bay (in the county of Normanby) a range of inconsiderable extent and elevation, called the Rifle Range, is chiefly characterised by its lofty timber and numerous swamps. Along the coast, to the eastward of Cape Otway, is a range called the Marrack hills, of which comparatively little is known, from the impenetrable character of its luxuriant vegetation. Station peak, the highest point of the Villemanata range, is a well known landmark in the harbours of Port Phillip and Geelong. The mountain is accessible on every side, and is remarkable for its picturesque beauty. Besides the chains above mentioned, there are Strzelecki range in Bass county, Western Port district, the Mamaloid hills, and other groups and detached mountains alluded to in the geological section. The prevailing line of the mountain ranges, when viewed at a distance, is a deep grey; on a nearer approach every variety of hue is agreeably blended. RIVERS.-The streams which irrigate Victoria are generally deeper and more constant in their course, than those of the older colony, unless, indeed, we except the more recently discovered streams in the northern districts of New South Wales. The noble river which forms three parts of the eastern and northern boundaries of the province, is known as the Hume in the early part of its course, after receiving the waters of the Ovens and the Goulburn, the Campaspé, the Loddon, and various smaller tributaries, it pursues a north-easterly course to its junction with the Murrumbidgee, from which point to its sea mouth, Lake Alexandrina, in South Australia, it is called the Murray. The earlier portion of its course is that with which we are at present concerned, and to avoid the repetition of the two names-Murray or Hume-it may be well to speak of it, during this portion of its course, by the latter appellation only. The basins of the Hume lie in the deepest recesses of the Australian Alps, and its immediate tributaries having also their sources among the Snowy mountains, it is supplied Recent information concerning Australia Felix, by G. Arden, Esq. + Several writers on Australia speak of this river by the name of the Murray only, and some confusion is certainly apt to arise in the minds of readers not intimately acquainted with the subject, from its bearing different names in different places, yet this does VOL. I. 585 from them with never-failing streams, and enabled to support a continuous volume, whose strength is manifested by its having forced a channel through a portion of the desert interior, instead of spreading over extensive plains, or being lost among morasses, like several other northern streams. I have, I believe, elsewhere quoted the remark of Sir Thomas Mitchell, that "each Australian river seems to have some peculiar character, sustained with remarkable uniformity throughout the whole course." That of the Hume appears to consist chiefly in the vast extent of alluvial margin, the lofty trees, and still lakes, which form its leading features throughout the varied scenery of the extensive regions which it fertilizes and adorns. It has been crossed, at different seasons and places, by Hovell, Hume, Sturt, Mitchell, Hawdon, and Strzelecki, and to the latter explorer we owe the knowledge of its sources. It is worthy of notice, that the Hume receives no tributaries from the westward or the northward. The first junction of any importance, is formed by the Mitta Mitta River, itself the recipient of Tallargetta and Livingstone creeks; some forty miles further, a small stream named the Kewa joins the main channel. About the same distance beyond, is a low granite hill named Mount Ochtertyre. Near this point Sir Thomas Mitchell describes the river as being bordered by so many lagoons, that he succeeded in obtaining a view of it only with great difficulty, and after nearly an hour's ride. He found it, at length, running at the rate of two miles and-a-half an hour, and just beginning to overflow, while the opposite bank consisted of a reedy and impassable swamp. Still, tracing the course of the Hume from its sources, we find it receiving the Ovens, another of the streams discovered during the memorable journey of Messrs. Hovell and Hume. The Ovens takes its rise in the mountainous district to the west of Lake Omeo; after its junction with the River King, it becomes an important stream, finely breaking up the dead levels of the surrounding plains. The next junction with the Hume is formed by a river of considerable magnitude, which has been unfortunate not seem a sufficient reason for setting aside the designation given to it by its earliest discoverer. To those who agree with Dr. Lang that the Murray is formed by the junction of the Hume and the Murrumbidgee, the distinction is a just and even a necessary one. 4. F 586 GOULBURN OR BAYUNGA, CAMPASPE, AND LODDON RIVERS. in receiving a variety of names. In the they fall in reality more than double that maps it appears generally marked as the height; in the lower part, however, the stream Goulburn, but there being another stream escapes unseen among large blocks of graof that name in New South Wales, it is nite. The picturesque effect of the waterstyled by some the Hovell, while others pre-fall of Cobaw is attributable less to the body fer its native, and certainly more eupho- of water falling, or the loud noise, than to nious appellation of Bayùnga. The river, the bold character and harmonious grouping however, by whatever name it may be de- of the rocks over and amongst which it signated, is a very fine stream. Rising falls. The prevailing shades are light red among the mountains to the north-east of and purple-grey, the rocks being finely inWestern Port, after receiving Broken River terlaced with a small-leaved creeper of the and several smaller creeks, it joins the Hume brightest green; a dark-coloured moss rein 143° E. long., 35° 19′ S. lat. About 100 lieves the vivid hues; while a brilliant miles below this point, the high road be- iris, shining steadily amid the spray, blends tween Sydney and Melbourne intersects the into perfect harmony the lighter colour of river, which during that distance has a the rocks, and the whiteness of the torrent medium breadth of from sixty to seventy rushing over them.+ yards, flowing through a fertile and populous district. The Bayùnga is subject to high floods, which supply extensive lagoons much frequented by aquatic birds. Sir Thomas Mitchell, in recounting his expedition of 1836, describes it as having a breadth of sixty yards, with a firm bed and banks; its mean depth (near the Deegay ponds) being somewhat more than two fathoms, and its velocity about one mile and 240 yards an hour. The length of its course is, according to Lang, about 200 miles, but it is elsewhere stated at above 400 miles. The land, up to its sources, is occupied by squatters, but near its mouth it is less settled, the soil being considered of inferior quality. The Campaspé falls into the Hume about four miles above the junction of the Goulburn or Bayùnga. It rises near Mount Macedon, and is joined at an early period of its course by the Barnard or Coliban,* a stream remarkable for the bold character of its scenery, and the abrupt and steep ravines through which it flows, the left bank consisting of undulating hills and lofty rocks of granite, the right strangely contrasting with it, by the perfectly level summits of the adjacent hills, which give to the whole the appearance of having been, at one time, in a fluid state. Some of these table hills are separated by dry grassy vales of excellent soil. Further back, the rugged crests of a wooded range of a different formation, render the level character of this ancient lava or vesicular trap more obvious. The rocky channel of the Barnard forms in one part a very striking cataract, the waters having a perceptible descent of above sixty feet, but * According to Mr. Ham's map of Australia Felix (1849), the Barnard or Coliban joins a channel by which the Loddon and Campaspé anastamose Loddon River, called the Yarrayne by Mitchell, from the noble line of Yarra trees growing on the very brink of the stream, next joins the Hume, and waters in its course a large extent of fine country, between that river and the western side of the Mount Bunninyong range, where it has its origin. This stream has all the characteristics of a mountain torrent, being at some times (as when discovered, in 1836) of considerable importance, with an equal depth of about nine feet, and a current of nearly a mile and-a-half an hour, while at others it is little better than a rivulet. The next important junction with the Hume is formed by the Murrumbidgee, and has already been described in the account of the latter river (p. 444); and of the former, little more need here be said. Throughout that portion of its course which we have just traced, the Hume, or Murray, maintains the character of a deep and rapid stream, exceeding at some points 400 yards in breadth, and offering a valuable means of internal communication. According to Mitchell, it carries to the sea a body of fresh water sufficient to irrigate the whole country; which is in general so level, even to a great distance from the river banks, that the abundant waters might probably be turned into canals, for the purpose of supplying natural deficiencies of water at particular places, or of affording the means of transport across the wide plains. The numerous and extensive grassy flats which border the river are attended, however, with one great disadvantage-the banks being frequently so steep and yielding as to render the water inaccessible to cattle, who appear to shrink instinctively from the muddy margin. † See Mitchell's Expeditions into Australia. YARRA YARRA RIVER AND ITS TRIBUTARIES. 587 at six beyond the latter stream, the River Plenty. These are all mountain torrents, rising in Mount Macedon range. There is much good land on their banks, although in general pretty heavily wooded and thickly covered with rocks, which are all evidently of volcanic origin, and have been carried down by the torrents from the extinct volcanoes of that part of the territory. The soil is a rich black mould, well adapted for the growth of the vine and other descriptions of European fruit-trees. There are many small farms, in this part of the country, in a highly creditable state of cultivation; and the situation of some of the villas, both on the main river and on its tributary streams or creeks, is romantic and beautiful in the highest degree.* A very interesting account of the lower course of this river is given in an official document written by his Honour C. J. Latrobe, the Superintendent of Port Phillip. The source of the river had not then been ascertained, although the Superintendent rightly surmised that it would be found The Yarra Yarra, though in itself secondary in importance to several other rivers of Victoria, all of which are, however, very inferior to the noble stream whose course through this province we have just examined, nevertheless claims attention, since on its banks stands the fair city of Melbourne. The Yarra Yarra rises in a gully between the Snowy mountains and one of the Goulburn mountains, about 100 miles east-north-east, as the crow flies, from Port Phillip, in 37° 46′ S. lat., 146° 17′ 30′′ E. long. The originating spring is so small that it could run through a four-inch pipe; it is, however, soon fed by branch streams, some of considerable magnitude, from the adjacent gullies. There are several waterfalls at the head of the stream, one rising some hundred feet above the bed of the river. The country is of trap-rock formation; freestone and slate are to be found. In various places the scenery (as described by Mr. Hoddle, who explored it in 1844) is extremely picturesque. Towards the source of the Yarra Yarra, the surface was boggy, and the scrub so close that the explorers could" among the offsets of the Snowy Alps to only cut their way through it at the rate of half a mile a day. Farther down, the soil was good, but very heavily timbered, many of the white gum-trees measuring fifty feet in circumference, and 150 feet in height; the tree-ferns were more than twenty feet high; and the sassafras and myrtle grew luxuriantly. The "greenest of trees" occasionally varied the scene; box, stringy bark, sometimes iron bark, black and silver wattle, and honeysuckle, studded portions of the country. One very pretty shrub abounded; it had smooth leaves, and produced, in bunches, a seed resembling black pepper in appearance and taste. Two other trees were also noticed, the fruit of which might be mistaken for the coffee-berry and plum. No aborigines were met with in the course of the expedition, which occupied nearly four months. This river disembogues in Hobson's bay, the northern extremity of Port Phillip; it is navigable up to Melbourne for steam-boats and other vessels of light draught, by a tortuous course of seven miles. The bar at its mouth has nine feet water at high tide. At the distance of four miles from Melbourne in a direct line, although perhaps three times that distance by the windings of the river, the Yarra Yarra receives, as a tributary from the northward, the Merri creek; at four or five miles farther, it receives the Darebin creek; and the eastward." Up to the furthest point to which it had then been surveyed it presents pretty much the uniform character of a constantly flowing stream, from a chain-and-ahalf to two chains in breadth, and eight or ten feet in depth, sunk in ordinary seasons beneath abrupt and wooded banks. As it approaches the vicinity of Melbourne and its estuary, it is traversed by dykes of trap or ironstone, the most elevated and striking of which occurs at the head of the basin at Melbourne. At this point, in ordinary times of the tide, the fresh water mingles with that of the bay, which, following the lower bends of the river, is nine miles distant. In dry seasons, before the dam was built, the high tide would frequently pass this natural barrier, and flow strongly up the channel, its influence being felt for hours to the distance of perhaps a mile above the town. Below the point where the river Plenty enters the Yarra Yarra, the high banks of the latter are found to border occasional flats, or low undulating tracts of various extent, composed of very rich alluvial soil; in the other portions of its course from the above point, the river will be seen to be confined within its deep bed at the foot of steep sandstone hills, or somewhat elevated flats of honeycomb land, sprinkled with trap boulders. The valley Lang's Phillip's Land. |