THE

NAUTICAL MAGAZINE

AND

Naval Chronicle.

AUGUST, 1863.

TORRES STRAIT BY THE BLIGH ENTRANCE AND CHANNEL. Proposed Beacon on Ipili Reef.-By Captain J. S. Kennedy, Ship "Teresa."

The safe passage of Bligh Channel, through Torres Stait, in comparison with the unsafe one by Raine Island, having yet to be established against the prejudice of certain agents at Sydney, we insert another voyage by it from a relative of our esteemed correspondent Captain Kennedy. In our volume for 1860* will be found the previous voyage of that officer, one replete with information, and from which we are glad to learn that several of our readers have profited. Like Captain Kennedy they have found the advantage of Bligh Channel, and that, compared with the anxiety attaching to running for Raine Islet with the chance of being caught on a lee reef and being brought up by some unknown rocky head afterwards, it is actual safety. As he justly says, "there is no difficulty whatever, every danger can be seen from the deck." Thirteen wrecks seen on one voyage by the Raine Island Passage serve well no doubt to keep up the insurance by that channel, while in that by Bligh Entrance there is nothing of the kind to be seen.

Since this Raine Island Channel has been unworthily dignified by a beacon in the early days of this outer route, we trust that the remarks of our correspondent in reference to a beacon on the Ipili Reef will not be lost; and that some of our ships of war will lend their aid to improve that navigation with as much zeal for Bligh Channel as was displayed for the Raine Island Channel. There is safety in every part of that, and if a ship should ground she may be easily got off * P. 561, sce also former on this passage.

NO. 8.-VOL. XXXII.

3 F

again, as Captain Kennedy says; but of Raine Island Channel, thirteen wrecks counted at one time, shows that Raine Island beacon is really a trap for the unwary navigator.

Sir,-Having recently made a passage from Moreton Bay to Madras through Torres Straits by Bligh's Entrance, I send you a few remarks, which, if you think worthy of notice, please insert them. I left Moreton Bay, August 27th, at 6h. p.m., and having previously read Captain Kennedy's account of his passage through by Bligh's Entrance, in November, 1860, I was determined to go that way, although all the information I could get at Brisbane from a shipmaster, who had been through the straits several times, was in favour of the Raine Island Entrance. After clearing Moreton Island I stood to the eastward until I got to 157° 4' E. long., and 25° 13′ S. lat., on August 29th. Then got the S.E. Trades strong from E.S.E. and S.E.b.E., with hard squalls. Steered to northward, following the track laid down on the charts of the Coral Sea for 1860. I had fine weather, with hard squalls, all the way up to Bramble Cay, and got the altitude of the sun on the meridian every day for latitude.

with

At midnight, September 4th, hauled the ship up to West under close reefed sails, being then in lat. 9° 14' S. At daylight, made sail to the westward, expecting to sight Bramble Cay on the starboard bow; or allowing six miles drift during the six hours the ship was steering W. 8. under close reefed sails, to make it right ahead. However, I was not so fortunate, and I do not exactly agree Captain J. B. Kennedy as to the lead being an unerring guide to Bramble Cay, as the soundings on both sides appear to me about the same depth and quality. I sounded at midnight in 75 fathoms, coral; at 2h. a.m. on Friday, 5th, 60 fathoms, coral and sand; at 4h. a.m., 45 fathoms, red coral. Now, if I had been sailing direct in the stream of the cay, the soundings would have been the same; and had I been a few miles South, they would have been the same. So far the lead is an unerring guide that if you get soundings in 75 fathoms and keep your lead doing, you are sure to have considerably less water before your ship can take any harm from Bramble Cay or any other.

At 8h. we sounded in 17 fathoms, mud; the water quite discoloured. Stood on to the south-westward, keeping the lead going, gradually decreasing the soundings. At 9h. 11 fathoms, soft mud. Could not see any land; but then being certain we were to the North of the channel, hauled close to the wind, S.W.b.S., until noon. Then tacked to E.N.E., in 93 fathoms, and saw the trees on Bristow Island bearing W.b.N. At 2h. saw Bramble Cay bearing E.S.E., distance about five miles. The water on the mud bank is very remarkable, being quite a different colour from any other shallow water on the reefs or sands. The edge is very clearly defined.

I think it is worthy of remark here, as I have not seen any caution given of it in the Directory, to guard against a northerly set as soon

as the N.E. channel is open. I steered to the westward in 9° 14' S., six miles South of the cay; but passed it about eight miles North of it. I also observe that the Medway, in November, 1860, passed in to the North of the cay; also the French ship Chatillon, of Bordeaux: but whether they were set to the North, or went intentionally, I am at a loss to know; but it is very evident to me that to enter the channel to the North of Bramble Cay is wrong, and will be in most cases the loss of a whole day to regain your position to windward, as was my case, and most probably would not have been if I had heard or seen anything about a northerly set in the vicinity of Bramble Cay. I would strongly urge the necessity of guarding against it by all who are taking that route, and on no account go to the North of Bramble Cay, as by entering to the South the ship will, under ordinary circumstances, fetch Stephens Island, and the passage is made. quite agree with many of Captain Kennedy's remarks respecting the navigation of Torres Straits by Bligh's Entrance. There is no difficulty whatever; every danger can be seen from the deck.

From sighting Bramble Cay at 2h. p.m., we tacked ship to S.W., the wind unsteady to S.S.E., and my ship very light in ballast. We stood to S.W. into 13 fathoms on the mud bank, and anchored at 6h. p.m. Midnight, strong wind, S.E., and heavy squalls, a short jump of a sea; 65 fathoms cable.

Saturday, September 6th.-At 3h. a.m. commenced to heave in cable, but did not way until 8h., owing to the strong wind and small crew. Stood to the eastward until noon, then tacked to southward, and at 7h. came to anchor, Arden Island bearing S.E., about two miles.

Sunday, 7th.-At 4h. a.m. commenced to heave in cable; at 6h. 45m. cast ship to the eastward; at 7h. 30m. tacked ship to S.b.W., and now all the difficulty of the straits is at an end, now that we have got to the windward side of the channel; and if we had entered to windward of Bramble Cay, it would have been all smooth sailing. I do not mean to say that there is any danger in entering to the North of Bramble Cay,-very far from it, as you come on to a mud bank decreasing the soundings regularly from 17 fathoms to half 9, so far as I went. Then we saw a very suspicious looking patch ahead, and tacked; but the nature of the ground and sounding shows plainly that the anchor is a safeguard anywhere in that vicinity. Moreover, you can anchor anywhere after you have passed to the westward of Bramble Cay, either to the North or South, you can anchor in safety, or at all events it struck me so, and I slept just as well during the three nights that my ship was anchored as I have done at anchor in any good harbour, and very much better than in Madras Roads.

We fetched Cocoanut Island and steered for the grassy sand bank on Bet Island, then close along North of the reef of Bet Island, and steered to the South of Ninepin Rock, but did not see Campbell Reef. At 7h. came to anchor in 7 fathoms, under Wednesday Spit,-very strong tides.

Monday, 8th.-At 6h. a.m. got under way. A canoe with six men

paddled off, but could not catch the ship; they looked fine men and worked hard to catch us, holding up tortoiseshell for barter, but I could not stop. I rounded Hammond Rock closely, the tide running strong to eastward. The N.W. reef shows very distinctly. I did not make out the Ipili Reef until I had passed it, as I did not take the black rocks close to the North part of Good Island to be it. There was no part of paddle-wheel or engine to be seen near the rocks. It was then top of high water and full moon. Neither did I make out the sunken reef d. "I steered pretty close past the black rocks called Ipili Reef, and the white rocks to the North showed me when we were clear of the sunken reef. It would certainly be a good thing if a beacon were placed on Ipili Rocks. It is the only thing wanting as a guide all through the straits by Bligh's Entrance. I found from 2 to 4 fathoms more water in most parts of the passage than is marked on the charts; but in Prince of Wales Channel about the same, 7 to 9 fathoms. In passing the island N.N.E. of Cocoanut Island, not named in the chart, there were two flags flying from poles above the highest trees. One looked like the Union Jack, the other I could not make out. I kept the ship close along the beach to see if any white men showed themselves, but could only see blacks running at the top of their speed and calling out lustily. I did not like to anchor for fear of treachery.

The sand bank to North of Bet Island shows very plainly; I saw the sand dry about two miles S.W.b.W. of Poll Island from the masthead, and breakers close to the South of the sand, about half flood, near the position of Ackers Shoal, 1860; but I did not see Campbell Reef, neither did I see any fragments of wreck on any of the islands or cays in the passage. I have heard people talk of seeing thirteen wrecks on their passage through the Raine Island Entrance; it is very different from Bligh's, nothing of the kind to be seen there. If a ship should get on any of the islands or reefs, it does not follow that she must be wrecked; the water is quite smooth, and there is every chance of getting her off again.

Noon, September 8th, I rounded to under Booby Island, the eleventh day from Moreton Bay. Sent the boat in charge of the first mate to land a barrel of biscuits, a canister of tea, and three bottles of rum in the cave. He went to the N.E. part of the island and deposited the small supply in a cave containing five tins of biscuits, about 30 lbs. each, and twelve tins of beef, 6 lbs. each, from Sydney. Then walked over to N.W. side and found the cave called the Post Office; there he reports to have found fifteen barrels of fresh water, seven cases of biscuits, eight kegs of beef and pork, one cask of Burton ale, some bottles of gin, tobacco and pipes, wax matches, some bottles of pickles, ink, quill pens, and the record book left by Captain James B. Kennedy quite filled up, and the office in want of another. He also reports that the last occupants of the cave, much to their discredit, had left it in a most disgraceful condition. There was one keg of beef and one of pork open, and the contents puite putrid from exposure to the air; also about thirty biscuits quite rotten on the sand.

I hoisted the signal for the boat to return at 1h. 30m. p.m.; they did return part of the way, and turned the boat over on top of themselves. Nothing of importance occurred after this, but we had very light winds from East and sighted Timor on the 20th at 6h. p m.; then had light airs from West and W.S.W. At 6h. p.m. in the evening of 21st the S.W. part of Rottie Island bore N.b.W. W., about eighteen miles, not having made any progress to the westward during the last twenty-four hours. Stood off to the southward.

Monday, 22nd.-Steady breeze S.b.W.; lat. obs. 11° 30′ S.; long. 123° 30' E.; bar. 29.80. Midnight, variable to W.N.W., tacked ship, as required to keep clear of the Hibernia Shoal.

Tuesday, 23rd,-a.m., variable in West. At 4h. a.m. tacked to S.S.W., wanting to make the two sandbanks ten feet high after daylight. At 10h. sent the second-officer on the topsail yard to look out right ahead for them, the ship heading S.b.W. right for the reef, according to Raper's maritime position; and as we had just stood off from Timor two days previous, and our chronometers gave us the positions of the islands in the straits as laid down in the charts, we could not be far out, and as soon as he got on the topsail-yard he reported heavy breakers bearing S.W.b.S., and a quarter of an hour after from S.W.b.S. to S.b.W., then to South and the reef extending to S.S.E., from S.W.b.S. to S.S.E. At 11h. saw the breakers distinctly from the poop and looked hard for the sand banks. Stood on S.b.W. until 11h. 35m. We were then about one mile from the northern edge of the reef and the water looked deep close up to it, as though it came straight up like a wall. Tacked ship to N.N.W., the N.W, part of the reef bearing S.S.W. W., distance about two miles, and the eastern breaker S.E., about three miles, and the East end of the reef E.S.E., about four and a half miles. The breakers at the West end were about two miles in length, a continuous line; then about one mile and a half clear space, but very shallow water; then about a quarter of a mile heavy breakers, which I have called the eastern breaker; then about two or two and a half miles of very shallow water to the eastward.

There is

I think the reef is quite six miles long, but very narrow. no sand above the water, but it looks very close to the surface where the heavy breakers are, as the water was quite smooth at the time we were passing, and the current was running strong to West close to the reef. I have not the slightest doubt but that the two places where the heavy breakers are, are the same that the sand banks ten feet high occupied. We saw the N.W. breaker until 5h. 30m. p.m. At noon we observed in lat. 11° 52′ S. and long. 123° 23′ E.; bar. 29.93 inches; having made about two and a half miles N.N.W. since tacking, giving our position at 11h. 35m. about lat. 11° 54′ S., long. 123° 24′ E., and the ship's distance from the middle part of the reef at the same time, would give lat. 11° 56′ S., long. 123° 27′ E., about as described by Raper, for the eastern breakers. This part of the passage was very tedious, as we did not get any Trade winds until in 14° 40' S.