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TRAVELS-FOR THE PORT FOLIO.

TOUR THROUGH JAMAICA.

[We have had access to the interesting manuscripts of a late traveller through Jamaica; from which we shall occasionally select some letters for the amusement of our readers.]

Kingston, Jamaica, Jan. 1811.

DEAR W

I WILL give you a brief geographical description of this island, before I proceed to a detail of my tour.

Jamaica is one of the leeward islands. It is situated in the Atlantic ocean, in N. lat. 18° 12'. and W. long. 76° 45'. It has St. Domingo to the east, Cuba to the north, the Gulf of Honduras to the west, and the continent of South America to the south. It was originally denominated, according to some writers, Xaymayco, which appears to be of Indian origin, and which in that language signifies a country of springs.

The climate from the southern situation of the island must, of consequence, be uniformly warm. This warmth would, to Europeans, or persons from a northern latitude, be intolerable, had not Providence, in his beneficence, occasioned a breeze to blow at the regular return of morning and evening, and thus temporized and ameliorated the intense heat of the sun. The general commencement of the sea-breeze is at about ten o'clock in the morning, and that of the land, at four in the evening. Another cause frequently produces a temporary mitigation of heat: a vast collection of clouds often hover over the vales, mountains, and plains, and shade them from the parching rays of a tropical sun, and thus renders the heat less insupportable. From observation, while in Jamaica, I found that the medium height of the thermometer was 75° among the mountains, and 87° Fahrenheit in the low lands, and towns. This uniform continuation of heat eminently tends to produce that debility of the nerves, and relaxation of the solids, to which the Westindians are subject. They never experience the cold of winter which is so beneficial in invigorating the system.

The island is about one hundred and fifty miles in length, from east to west, and nearly fifty in breadth. Its surface is extremely irregular; which, however, adds to the beauty and sublimity of its landscape. The mountains are lofty, and uneven, running, not as is said by naturalists, from east to west, or from north to south, but thrown up in disorder and confusion. The observation of a gentleman, who once visited the island, that it resembled a piece of white paper crumpled up in the hand, is just and correct. I know of no description that could convey a more accurate idea of the irregularity of its surface. Their rivers are numerous but small. None are sufficiently expansive to swim any vessels larger than canoes. These rivers, or streams, pass through the island in various directions, contributing to its benefit, and adding to its picturesque beauty,

This short topographical description will, I conceive, be sufficient at present. As I proceed in my tour, I shall be more minute and particular. When you come within sight of the island, your eye is delighted by the prospect of cultivation which it presents. Extensive sugar plantations, and coffee estates, arise to view, with all the charms of novelty, and all the delight of variety. The traveller, who comes from a cold climate in the dead of winter, appears to be transported into a region of enchantment, where every thing blooms, in the efflorescence of spring. The scenes of Arcadia instantly strike his imagination; he dreams in fancy of roseate bowers, purling rills, murmuring cascades, and all the imagery and embellishments of poetry.

"Hic gelidi fontes, hic mollia prata."

The golden age, with all its happiness and simplicity, occu pies his mind; and he wanders back, with an indescribable pensiveness, to the period when the poor natives of the island lived in peace, and expired in tranquillity. Such were my feelings when I first beheld Jamaica. I was struck with its appearance, and thought of my early reading; and when memory dwelt on the fate of those unfortunate beings, whom Spanish barbarity and religious cruelty have entirely exterminated, I dropt a tear in commiseration of their fate, and cursed the wretches who could so wantonly violate every principle of humanity.

The entrance into the harbour of Kingston appears to be well fortified. The forts on each side are placed in such situations as to render it almost inaccessible by water. Port Royal lies at the extremity of a neck of land which projects some distance into the ocean, and which affords an advantageous site for a fort. It is about seven miles distant from Kingston, and contains but few buildings; of which the whole seem to be small, incommodious, and inelegant. This town has been destroyed several times, once by an earthquake, once by a hurricane, and once by a conflagration. When the sea is transparent, some of its ruins can be distinctly seen at the bottom of the water. Port Royal is frequently resorted to by persons afflicted with indisposition, from an impression that it is healthy. I conceive this opinion to be correct, as the town is situated to receive the sea-breeze, without impediment or obstruction; and the sea-breeze is generally allowed by physicians to be salubrious and invigorating.

On my arrival in Kingston I waited upon the American consul, to whom I had a letter of introduction: I found him polite and attentive. From him I received some information as to the manners and customs of the inhabitants of the island; and, while with him, spent my time not disagreeably. Kingston is the metropolis of Jamaica. It is the most airy and comfortable city I have seen in the Westindies. It is nearly a mile and a half in length, and one in breadth. The streets are, for the most part, clean and pleasant, with pavements in front of the buildings, but unfortunately so irregular as to destroy their beauty. It strikes me that this city was at first improperly planned, as the inhabitants are generally excluded, in consequence of its triangular situation, from the benefits of the sea-breeze. The merchants, who are principally Europeans, have some very elegant and tastefully executed edifices in the suburbs, which are there called pens, to which they retire after the business of the day is transacted. This city contains a great number of Jews, who have spread over the whole island. They have two synagogues in Kingston, which are buildings of very little taste or beauty. They are excluded from the possession of every office, and the enjoyment of every privilege, except that which is particularly specified by law. As usual, they acquire great wealth; and as usual

are denominated great knaves. I am informed that the assembly of Jamaica petitioned, in the reign of William III, to have all the Jews expelled from the island," because they were the descendants of the crucifiers of the blessed Jesus." I leave you to smile at the force of this irresistible reason. These misera. ble wretches have been persecuted since the death of Christ, with a malignancy and hatred not perfectly compatible with the pure doctrines of christianity. They have been driven with relentless barbarity, from the retreats of infancy, from the peaceful shades of their native home; and wherever they have fled, have been followed by a deep and irremovable hatred that casts a stain on the proselytes of Christ, and that even degrades the dignity of humanity. I cannot but reflect, my dear W, with pleasure on that religious toleration, which forms so prominent a feature in the constitution of our country; and, whatever may be said by our transatlantic friends to the contrary, it must be allowed, by every unprejudiced individual, to be one of the best privileges of which a nation can boast.

The admiral's mansion appears to be the most elegant edi fice in Kingston. It was built at the expense of government for the general residence of that officer; and therefore executed with some degree of taste. Over the gateway stand the jaw. bones of a shark; of which they relate a ludicrous anecdote, not much entitled to belief. A British vessel, they say, was in danger of being attacked by a French privateer, of much superior force, and having on board some documents of importance to the French nation, if obtained, they were thrown into the ocean, and very miraculously swallowed by a shark that casually glided by at that moment. This fish was afterwards, by an accident, not common in this wonderful world, taken by the admiral-ship, and the documents found entire and perfect in the interior chamber of the shark's belly. This singular incident made such an impression on the mind of the admiral, that he determined to perpetuate the event, by erecting over his gateway the jaw-bones of this astonishing animal, and thus convince the world that Solomon was not so wise as he imagined, when he declared there was nothing new under the sun.

DEAR W

Kingston, Jamaica, 1811.

NOTHING strikes a traveller, accustomed to the cheapness of American living, with more astonishment than its extrava gance in this island. One would be induced to believe that the golden visions of Columbus had been realized, or that the mines of Golconda and Potosi lay exposed to every hand. There was a period indeed, when wealth scattered her gifts over the island, with a profusion that enriched all; when money was so abundant, that the most trifling article commanded a price almost too extravagant to mention; and though that period is past, so trammeled are men by the slavery of custom, that they still adhere to their ancient practices, and continue to demand, with their former exorbitance. For the benefit of those who may hereafter visit this island, I will here insert the general price of a few articles, which will demonstrate the enormity of their charges. In a coffee-house, (for there are no taverns in Kingston) the usual price for a breakfast is one dollar, second ditto, which is usually taken at twelve o'clock, three fourths of a dollar. Dinner, to which they sit down at seven o'clock, and from which they never rise sober, three dollars, if wine is drank; and lodging per night one dollar. The expense of travelling is also on a par with the price of living. As the extreme hillyness of the island renders the passage of a stage-coach impossible, those who feel disposed to ride into the interior, are compelled to make use of horses and chaises. The demand, therefore, for a horse, mule, and servant, per day, is ten dollars; for a horse and chaise, fifteen dollars; and thus proportionably for every other article of necessity.

The most numerous class of inhabitants are the merchants. These men, as I before mentioned, are for the most part Europeans. They came over to this island to accumulate wealth, and to this object they devote their every exertion. They carry on a commerce with the United States, extensive, advantageous, and profitable; and, with that cunning which results from an intimate knowledge of man, contrive to ingratiate themselves into. the good opinion of the American captains so effectually as frequently to receive consignments to a considerable amount. Every

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