fact, unfit to travel. G and our medical companion, Assaad and myself, therefore, started at half past five, hoping to avoid the heat, and reach the appointed place of our night's encampment (reported at only four hours' distance) before the heat of the day. G― however grew tired, and we rested two hours under a tree where he slept awhile, and in the mean time the rest of the party overtook us. The heat now grew apace; in fact, no sooner is the sun above the horizon in these climates, than it becomes unbearable. Towards twelve o'clock we hoped to be near the termination of our journey, but alas! there was no prospect of either shade or water, and a never ending barren plain or gentle ascent plagued us for six weary hours, when at length we reached some olive trees and a well, near which we laid down G until the arrival of the tents. He was completely tired. The heat and hot wind continue to be intolerable night and day, and we pine inexpressibly for the cool atmosphere of Lebanon, from which, I am sorry to say, we are still distant two days' journey, and I fear we must stay here to-morrow to give rest to our invalids.

Saturday, May 23rd.

This morning it was settled that Assaad should go over to Hasbaya, a neighbouring town, and thence despatch a messenger to Damascus with

a letter to Mr. Wherry, the Consul, to request information as to quarantines at, and out of, Damascus, the departure of steamers from Beirout, and anything else he might have to tell. Gis better, and the repose is good for I; but the heat is really so intense that existence is a burthen. In the evening Assaad returned, having despatched the letter, but bringing news that there is an eleven days' quarantine at Damascus, and that four ships of war are arrived before Alexandria to settle the Syrio-Egyptian question. The first part of this news we believe, and that, consequently, there is an end of Damascus for us. The other part we disbelieve in toto.

Sunday, May 24th.

ENCAMPMENT, AT A VILLAGE ABOVE HASBAYA.

Assaad having ascertained last night that there was a place up the mountain, an hour or so from Hasbaya, and three hours from hence, much recommended for its coolness, we determined, although Sunday, for the good of the invalids to remove thither. I had a bad headache, and could scarcely hold up my head. The journey was through a pretty smiling country, rich valleys, streams, and mountains, precisely such as Moses describes it to the Israelites in Deuteronomy: "The Lord thy God bringeth thee into a good land, a land of brooks of water, of fountains and

depths that spring out of valleys and hills, a land of barley and wheat, and vines, and fig-trees, and pomegranates, a land of oil-olive, and honey." The road was as bad as possible. We had thought at one time of travelling it at night, but a journey in the dark by such roads as are to be met with in Syria would be very unpleasant, not to say dangerous. On our way to, and very near the town, we met with a Jew, who was followed by a concourse of boys and others, mocking and insulting him. We heard afterwards that they proceeded to beat him, and Assaad went to the rescue. I could not learn the occasion, or the authors, of the outrage. At the outskirts of Hasbaya we were met by a well dressed and flourishing looking population, the majority of which I believe are Christians, who received us with great courtesy, the women presenting me with nosegays, and all saluting us in that graceful fashion, peculiar to the East, of touching their forehead and breast with their hand. I believe we owed this reception to the exalted idea they have formed of us in these parts. More than once we have learnt that they suppose us to be the King and Queen of England, travelling with their son!

The ascent from Hasbaya here is very steep. Amongst the numbers of people who were out to receive us, our baggage having preceded us, were the wife and daughter of the Christian priest, who burnt incense before me, their motive being,

not honour to me or my majesty, but the hope of getting a little money in aid of a Christian Church which is in progress of erection in the village, a most legitimate and laudable object. My tent is pitched under an enormous tree, but alas! we are very little better off here than down below, and the thermometer has not fallen above a few degrees; it stands at 100° in the shade. Moreover, I is I fear rather worse than better for the move. We must stay here for some days, in short, till he gets well. G is very nearly well again.

We are now approaching the Druse country, and the dress of the women is most curious; they wear the Druse horn upon their heads, the distinguishing mark of the married women. It is the most inconvenient, senseless, and unbecoming costume I ever saw.

It is composed in many instances of silver, and of considerable weight, and it is invariably covered over with a muslin veil, which also serves to draw over and conceal the face at pleasure. There is a great deal of manoeuvring in this way amongst the bashful, not to say coquettish, ladies of these parts. Their curiosity to see us Europeans knows no bounds; they peep over the walls of my tent whilst I am dressing; they come in at the door, and they stand round the gentlemen's tents in a most inconvenient manner; the consequence is, we are constantly obliged to drive them away like animals, as there is no other means of getting rid of them. The men show no such indiscretion. This, however, is only one out of the many indications of the lamentable inferiority of the female to the male population.

Monday, May 25th.

SAME PLACE.

We have contrived to get through the day pretty well, with the help of a little reading, a little writing, and a little sleeping. The heat precludes our stirring from our tree during the day, and the moment the sun is down it is dark, so that we cannot, in fact, stir at all; at night we boil, the atmosphere in the tent being at 98°. The Governor of Hasbaya came up in the afternoon to pay us a visit; he and his suite sat in a