into two principal parts, made up of small islands, and each part separated from the other, except at this bridge. The different shoals constituting the two great separate parts, are again connected by smaller bridges, which cross the canals by which the numerous islands are formed. These bridges are frequent, and, being very steep, they are cut into easy steps; hence, in walking about Venice, you are constantly going up and down flights of steps. The Rialto, being the highest bridge in the town, is also the steepest. The small canals, or rii, as they are termed, which are crossed by these bridges, are the water streets of Venice; but there is no part of either of the two divisions to which you may not also go more directly by land through narrow passages called cale. These cale may be considered as an unfavourable likeness of Cranbourne-alley and its cognate lanes. There are besides several small squares, called campi, or fields."* The above quotation will serve to give a good general idea of Venice, of which the aspect of parts is familiar to many who have not visited it, from the accurate representations in Canaletti's pictures. The appearance of the city, which seems to arise from the water on approaching from the main land in a gondola, and the entrance by the Grand Canal, are eminently calculated to strike the traveller "Che Vede Di marmi adorne e grave Sorger le mura, onde ondeggiar le navi;" as is likewise the silence which prevails, and is scarcely * Rose, as quoted in "The Classic and Connoisseur in Italy." interrupted save by the warning sound ever and anon uttered by the gondoliers on turning a corner; for singing, or the recitation of Tasso's verses, no longer constitutes a part of their vocation : "No answering gondolier, at close of day, Takes up Medoro's tale or sweet Erminia's lay." The most handsome palaces are built along the canal; some of them are almost literally "crumbling to the shore," and others are appropriated to the use of government, or let to strangers, there being few of the descendants of the old Venetian families now remaining, and those, for the most part, are in an impoverished condition. St. Mark's Square will probably be the first spot to which the visiter will direct his gondola; this, being the only open place for walking, is thronged in the evening with the inhabitants and strangers, several of whom are dressed in the eastern costume, lounging beneath the arcades or in the cafés. This square is still, as indeed it has always been, celebrated as the scene of pageantry, and exhibitions both of joy and mourning : “The sea, that emblem of uncertainty, Changed not so fast, for many and many an age, As this small spot. To-day 'twas full of masks; And, lo! the madness of the carnival, The monk, the nun, the holy legate mask'd! To-morrow came the scaffold and the wheel, And he died there by torch-light, bound and gagg'd, The church, occupying one end of the square, is of a mixed style of architecture, and is surmounted by five domes, somewhat after the manner of the Turkish mosques. The interior is rather sombre, notwithstanding the decorations of gilding, mosaics, and marbles, with which it is profusely ornamented. Adjoining is the Doge's Palace, which takes up one side of the Piazzetta. The appearance of the grand councilchamber is interesting. It contains some fine historical pictures by Tintoretto and Palma Vecchio, with portraits of the Doges around; one space being covered with a black pall instead of the picture of Marino Faliero.* The chamber of the Council of Ten, and other apartments, are likewise embellished with paintings by Titian, and other painters of the Venetian school. The prisons, termed pozzi, or wells, to which the entrance is by the Bridge of Sighs, will be visited with interest. Venice is only excelled by Rome in the number and magnificence of its churches. The Redentore, with the adjoining Dogana, presents a striking appearance from the water, or from the opposite side of the canal, as does also the Church of the Salute, which, as well as the former, were erected by Palladio, on the occasion of the cessation of the plague. Its interior is richly decorated and embellished with some fine paintings; the Jesuits' Church is likewise richly adorned with variegated marbles and precious stones. churches of St. Giorgio and St. Giovanni e Paulo, must likewise be enumerated among those most deserving of a visit. In the Academia di Belle Arte is a choice col * See Notes to Childe Harold. The lection of pictures and other interesting objects. Of the private collections, the Barberini and the Manfrini are the best; in the first are several Titians, portraits of Doges and members of the family; as also a Magdalen, a Venus, and Titian's daughter, which rank among the chefs d'œuvre of this master. They are, however, rapidly falling into decay. The Manfrini collection is better preserved; a few of the best pictures are the Prodigal Son, by Guercino, which is the counterpart of the picture of the same subject in the Borghese Palace at Rome; portrait of a Dutch Ambassador, by Rembrandt; the Defiance of Apollo, and Lucretia, by Guido; portraits by Titian, especially that of Ariosto; Circe presenting the cup to Ulysses, by Giulio Romano; a Holy Family, by Palma Vecchio. A walk of about half a mile from St. Mark's along the quay, interrupted by the ascent of several bridges, which cross the smaller canals, leads to the arsenal, which, however, in its present state, will scarcely repay the trouble of a visit. In the same direction is a wide street, formed by covering over a canal with flag-stones, which leads to the public garden constructed by orders of Napoleon, about half a mile long, and planted with trees and shrubs. On an island opposite stands the Armenian Convent, an interesting establishment, which is well worth visiting. The Lido is about three miles from Venice, and is five miles in extent. The Campanile, in St. Mark's Square, should be ascended, in order to enjoy the view of the city, the islands, the Adriatic, the Euganean hills, and the distant Alpine chain. The archives of Venice, in the convent of the Trari, are said to consist of eight millions, six hundred, and sixty-four thousand volumes or portfolios. St. Mark's library, containing 65,000 volumes, and 5,000 manuscripts, now occupies the great Council-Chamber. The high Alps on the north, shelter Venice from the direct influence of this quarter; it is, however, more exposed on the north-east, the Carnatic chain not being sufficiently elevated for protection from this wind, which, with the east and south-east, are the most predominant. The west and north are the least frequent winds. The city is directly open to the influence of the southern winds, which, together with the tides, and the continual movement of the water in the canals, tend greatly to the purification of the air. Venice, though cold in winter, is not so prejudicial to persons in health as the moister atmosphere of Milan, and other towns in Lombardy. The mean winter temperature is 3.35; that of spring, 12.64; summer, 22.82; autumn, 13.26; the annual mean being 13.26. The transitions are not so frequent and abrupt as on the mainland. The number of rainy days, on an average of seven years, amounts to 75. The marine atmosphere of Venice is beneficial in many states of disease, and is not unfavourable in some consumptive cases allaying pulmonary irritation. Some paralytic, nervous, and scrofulous patients would be benefited by wintering at Venice. The best situations are St. Mark's, the Piazzetta, the greater part of the Grand Canal as far as the Rialto; the houses on the canal of the Giudecca, fronting the south, are likewise well situated. Dr. Taussig, now of Florence, who resided several years at Venice, and published a brochure upon its cli P |