its lake, which is surrounded by magnificent scenery; in some parts lofty and sterile mountains rise perpendicularly from the water, as at the lake of Wallenstadt. After about four hours' drive from the head of the lake, through a highly picturesque country, where the inhabitants appear to have lost none of their primitive manners and hospitality, you arrive at the beautiful lake Tegernsee, at the base of the Alps, which is greatly resorted to in the summer months by the higher class of Bavarians. The town at the extremity of the lake affords excellent accommodation, and the surrounding scenery is beautiful and varied. The watering-place Kreuth, which is likewise greatly resorted to by the inhabitants of Munich, lies more among the mountains, about two hours' drive from Tegernsee. It consists of two large lodging-houses joined together, and a public room, or Cursaal, with baths and outhouses. Not more than two hundred persons could be accommodated at the same time. Many of those who pay it a visit, are induced to do so as much on account of the purity and bracing qualities of the air as for the waters, which do not possess any very efficient medicinal properties. A great proportion of the invalids labour under pulmonary complaints, and drink goats' milk or whey (molkenkur), which is combined with the use of the baths. From Tegernsee to Munich the country is flat, and devoid of interest to the passing traveller. This road from Innspruck should not be selected by persons who are encumbered with a carriage: the post-road to Munich, though somewhat shorter, is less interesting. The Brenner pass, from Verona to Innspruck, is the least elevated of the Alpine roads from Italy to Germany or Switzerland; it is also the least interesting in a scenic point of view, but, from being traversable at all times of the year, is one of the most frequented. The towns of note upon this route, Trent, Brixen, and Botsen, need scarcely delay the traveller. From Milan to Switzerland, a choice of interesting roads is presented. The Stelvio is the highest pass, and the scenery is in some parts magnificent. This, however, is surpassed for variety by the Splugen, from Chiavenna to Coire in the Grisons. The portion comprised between the village of Splugen at the base of the mountain, and Coire, the celebrated Via Mala, can scarcely be excelled. From the upper part of the Lago Maggiore, the St. Bernardino likewise diverges. The St. Gothard presents scenery of the grandest and most sublime order, and is preferred by many on account of its connecting the Two Lakes Maggiore, and the Four Forest Cantons; so that between Milan and Lucerne, more than a hundred miles of the journey is practicable by steam on these lakes. These passes are, however, seldom open for carriages before the middle of May, or after the end of November. The most favourite route, however, from Milan to Switzerland and France, is by the Simplon. Leaving the shore of the lake at Baveno, the traveller soon arrives at Domo D'Ossola, the first town presented to the view on descending the mountain on the Italian side, which, together with its rich plain, encircled by verdant hills dotted with numerous white villas, is well calculated to convey a favourable impression of Italy. "It would be difficult," says Valery, "to paint the enchanting aspect of the valley of Domo D'Ossola from the bridge of Crevola; and when one emerges from the galleries of the Simplon-those long, damp, obscure caverns-the eye tired of rocks, forests, glaciers, torrents, and cascades, revels in the contemplation of nature in all her serenity and gracefulness, after having beheld her in her most rugged garb. One would say that this new land smiles upon the traveller, invites him to enter, and decks herself out to receive him; sounds of joy seem to proceed from a distance, and the festoons of the vine hanging around the trees, give to the country an appearance of festivity. The meeting of some procession, the lively and spirited expression of the countenance, the glaring colours of the dresses worn by the women, the size and solidity of the buildings, in fact, every thing combines to inform us that we are in Italy." The ascent from the bridge of Crevola is gradual as far as Isella, the road being carried along the edge of the Vedro, through scenery of a strikingly wild and romantic character. Beyond Isella you pass through the sombre defile of Gondo, which presents scenery surpassing in wildness and sublimity that of any other Alpine pass. The ascent then becomes steeper, and the road is seen from below, winding its way upwards in several zig-zag turns, "Like a silver zone Flung about carelessly, it shines afar, Rogers. At the village of Simplon there is tolerable accommodation; a few miles beyond, the summit of the pass is reached. A substantial hospice, where travellers are accommodated, has been erected at the highest part; along the road, but more especially on the Italian side, strong houses of refuge are met with at intervals, to afford a temporary shelter in the event of storms, or when the passage is impeded by snow. The descent towards Switzerland presents but few features of interest (except the bridge of Ganther), as compared with the other side, the road being for the most part cut through the mountain, along the edge of wide ravines, between whose steeply-shelving sides, clothed with pines and larches, occasional glimpses are caught of the valley and glittering spires of Brigg, to which it descends after many tortuous windings. Before advancing into Germany, it will be as well to give a brief notice of the chief points of interest on the route from the lake of Geneva to the Mediterranean at Nice. Chambery, the capital of Savoy, and the principal town on the road from Geneva, and from Lyons to Turin, lies in a picturesque country watered by the Isere, apparently close to the Alps, which, however, are several posts distant. It is clean and cheerfullooking, but does not contain much calculated to arrest the traveller's attention. The small lake (Bourget), a few miles off, to which a railroad conducts, is navigated by a steamer, which descends the Rhone two or three times a week to Lyons. Owing to the rapidity of the river, it takes, however, two and sometimes three days to return. Aix les Bains is two leagues from Chambery, on the Geneva road, and contains a population of four thousand inhabitants. It lies in a beautiful situation, and the more elevated parts of the environs command extensive and delightful prospects. These baths have been frequented from the time of the Romans, and are in high repute in the present day, as being among the most efficient hot sulphurous waters of Europe, and are especially calculated to remove long-standing rheumatic, paralytic, and cutaneous diseases. The casino, or assembly and billiard-rooms, occupies an ancient building, supposed to have been built on the site of a temple of Diana, of which some vestiges may still be seen. The bathing establishment contains two piscinæ, or lofty vaulted chambers, about fifteen feet square, fitted up with douche apparatus at various heights from the ground, in order to regulate the degree of force with which the water falls upon any part of the body. The douche forms an essential part of the treatment of most of the cases to which the Aix waters are applicable. It is not, however, the custom to take the bath and douche at the same time, as at other places, as the water does not rise more than a few inches from the floor. The so-called sulphur spring flows directly from the rock (which at this part is hewn out in the form of a grotto), and is used for drinking. There is also another department, termed d'Enfer, from its being below the surface, and the water being hotter than the other springs. The piscinæ are constantly filled with vapour; so that patients have the advantage of a vapour bath at the same time as the douche. There is, however, but little conveni |