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dilapidated-looking town, beyond which you pass through some fine scenery, and the wildly romantic gorge of Saorgio; the road being cut for miles along the edge of the torrent, and frequently through rocks, which impeded its construction. The town of Saorgio is perched upon the acclivity of one of the mountains. Its castle completely commands the defile, and made efficient resistance to the French during their occupation of Piedmont. The scenery from Saorgio to Chiandola continues to be of the most interesting description. You then ascend another mountain pass, exceeding in savage grandeur, and in the desolateness of its appearance, that of Tenda, and descend to Sospello, between which town and the plain of Nice there lies yet another mountain, the scenery of which is of the same wild character as the former, the road being in several parts cut through rocks of granite and marble. From the summit is obtained a glance of the Mediterranean, with the harbour of Villa Franca, and the island of St. Marguerite. After passing through the village of Scarena, the road gradually descends to the regions of fertility, and approaches Nice through olive plantations and orange gardens.*

* “ Descending to the shores of the Mediterranean, a true garden of Flora appears in all that delicious tract comprised between the Var and the Magra; no southern country in Europe presents a picture so varied in respect to indigenous plants, and in naturalized exotics, as this hilly but smiling territory of ancient Liguria.”—Zuccagni, op. cit.

SWITZERLAND.

CHAPTER XIII.

GENEVA-ST. GERVAIS - LAUSANNE - VEVAY - MONTREUX

AND ITS CLIMATE -THE VALAIS- BATHS OF LEUK-BERNE

-INTERLACKEN-LUCERNE AND ITS LAKE-ST. GOTTHARD

-BATHS OF PFEFFERS.

GENEVA is greatly improved in appearance of late years, the quays having been widened by the removal of several of the old buildings, which are replaced by large and handsome edifices. The town, however,

. has but little beauty in itself, but derives its chief interest from its position, the beauty of its environs and promenades, and its historical associations. Geneva and its neighbourhood is one of the most eligible summer residences in Switzerland, both for invalids and persons in health. Many of the villas are let to Eng. lish visiters, by whom also the numerous hotels are thronged till the period of autumnal migration to the south. The Genevese are in general well informed and agreeable; society is upon an easy footing, and free from formality. Literature and science are a good deal cultivated; Geneva having been the birthplace of several distinguished savans, and the residence of many eminent men, The population now amounts to 62,000, of whom between three and four thousand are employed in the manufacture of watches and jewellery. The principal objects of interest in the town are the cathedral, the musée Rath, the town museum, the museum of natural history, the public library, containing 40,000 volumes, and the botanical garden. There is a society for the advancement of the arts, and other societies of a scientific or charitable nature. The promenades (whence may be enjoyed delightful views of the surrounding country, of the lake, the Alps, and Jura mountains) are, La Treille, a terrace planted with chestnut trees; the Place Maurice; and the bastions communicating, by means of a suspension bridge, with the Esplanade des Tranchées. The panorama from the Bastion de Cornarvin is particularly striking. Geneva possesses a theatre, well-supplied libraries, and the accommodation is of the best kind—at the Great Hôtel des Bergues, the Hôtel des Etrangers in the faubourg Paques, at Secheron upon

the lake, as also at the hotels within the town. In the environs, the great and little Saleve mountains; Ferney, formerly the abode of Voltaire; Boissy, Les Voirons, Coppet, the small town of Carouge, &c., will be visited with interest.

On account of the proximity of the Alps, the climate of Geneva is colder than that of Paris, and is also more variable.

Even in October, a good deal of rain frequently falls, and fogs are not uncommon in the evening.

There are two departures of steamers daily in the summer season; and the boats touch at all the points of any importance on the north side of the lake. The lake itself is twenty leagues in length, and three and a half in breadth at its widest part. It is inclosed by the Alps, the Jura, and Jorat mountains.' The Alps extend on the Savoy side from Geneva to Vevay—the Jura takes a direction from south to north-the Jorat is a lower chain of hills connecting the higher ranges. At the upper part the Rhone enters the lake, flows through Geneva, preserving its clear blue colour even for some distance, after receiving the muddy waters of the Arve, a few miles beyond the city. On either side of the lake are post-roads leading to the Simplon, which meet at St. Maurice in the Valais ; that on the Savoy side by Evian and Thonou is the shorter, though the least interesting.

Most Genevese visiters will avail themselves of the opportunity to view Mont Blanc, Chamouni, and its environs. On the road lie the baths of St. Gervais, which are a good deal frequented, but principally on account of being a cool and agreeable summer residence. Ascending the course of the torrent Bonnant, a narrow valley enclosed between precipitous rocks, crowned with pine-wood, conducts to the Cul de sac, in which is situate the establishment. This is a central point for exploring the neighbourhood, which abounds in picturesque scenery, ravines, torrents, cascades, verdant meadows for pasturage, &c., the higher localities presenting extensive and beautiful prospects. Of these, the isolated hill, Mont Joli, is the most remarkable, the view from its summit being even preferred by some to that from the Righi. St. Gervais possesses likewise its Pont du Diable, across the Bonnant. There are nine springs;

four being chiefly used. The temperature of the cool. est is 18°, that of the warmest 42° R. The water is saline, containing sulphate of soda, muriate of soda, and magnesia. They are, however, not very strongly mineralized; the proportion of carbonic acid and of sulphuretted hydrogen gas is but small. They are employed for drinking, and for baths and douches in various disordered conditions of the health, though seldom in the more serious cases of disease. Chamouni lies three leagues east of the baths.

Ouchy on the lake is the landing-place for Lausanne, which stands in an elevated position a mile and a half distant. In the hotel, Byron wrote his “ Prisoner of Chillon" in two days. In the neighbourhood are several pleasantly situated country-houses. Lausanne, with its cathedral standing prominently out, looks better from a distance than on a close inspection; it is irregularly built, the streets are for the most part narrow and hilly -several improvements have, however, been effected of late years. The surrounding country is beautiful and varied, and, together with a great part of the lake, is seen to advantage from the cathedral, from the courtyard of the ancient chateau (now occupied by the state council and containing the public offices), and especially from the Terrasse de St. Pierre-which is the principal promenade. Lausanne was the residence of Gibbon, and one of the hotels is still called by his name. Though less agreeable than Geneva, it is a cheaper place for a prolonged residence, and affords equal facilities for education. Its winter climate is, however, no better than that of Geneva. There are several cercles, a theatre, a cantonal museum, a college, a public library

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