Sivut kuvina
PDF
ePub

Paris and the Venus of Canova, a bust of Napoleon, and one of the king, by Thorwaldsen.

The Royal Palace is likewise decorated in a rich and peculiar style, with carving and fresco-painting, which, from the encouragement afforded by the ex-king, has been brought to great perfection in Bavaria. The floor of each apartment is inlaid with woods of different colours, and, contrasted with the frescoed ceilings and walls, produces a rich effect. The large bronze-gilt statues of former sovereigns, adorning the throne-room, likewise afford indication of the taste of King Louis, by whom the art of bronze-gilding has been revived and perfected.

On one side of the palace is the Hof-Garten, a large space planted with trees, where the military bands. frequently play in the afternoon, and enclosed between arcades, the walls of which are painted in fresco with views of Italy and Sicily, or illustrative of the history of Bavaria.

On the other side is the principal square (with the bronze statue of the late king, seated, in the centre), in which are the new post-office and the theatre, which is connected with the palace by a covered gallery; so that the king can go from one to the other without going out of doors. The theatre is one of the largest and handsomest in Germany, and is well calculated for hearing. The corps dramatique, both in the operatic and tragic department, is excellent. The performances here, as in other parts of Germany, begin about six, and seldom last more than four hours.

The love of music, though universal in Germany, is, perhaps, greater in Bavaria than elsewhere, and is more

diffused among all classes. Military bands play almost daily at stated hours. Public and amateur concerts are given about twice a week in the winter, in the Odeon, or one of the large rooms appropriated to the purpose, and to balls, which are also of frequent occurrence, the love of dancing being no less general than that of music, though little else than the waltz is seen. The Germans seem to like dancing purely for its own sake. Many scarcely speak a word to their partners during the whole time, and hand them to their seat immediately after the waltz or galopade is over; whereas, in England, conversation is the chief inducement with a large proportion of the gentlemen who stand up to dance; hence quadrilles are so much more general. Waltzing may be seen to greater perfection in Vienna and Munich than elsewhere. In the Rhenish countries it is but indifferent.

There are, besides, numerous houses of entertainment in the environs of Munich, as of most other German towns, where inferior shopkeepers, soldiers, and others of the lower classes resort, in the summer evenings, and on holidays (which are numerous), to dance and drink beer or tea. The movements of the dancers are generally more active and energetic than elegant, and in many of them profuse perspiration is induced by their exertions. A love of pleasure is, in fact, predominant among the inhabitants of Southern Germany, and great laxity of morals is said to prevail, especially in the two last-mentioned cities. There is, however, in general, more heart among the Germans of all ranks than in some other civilized countries which could be named; and strangers, properly introduced, are, for the

most part, cordially received.

Society is less exclu

sively divided into coteries at Munich than at Vienna, where, however, it is less so than many persons have imagined, from reading the account given of the Viennese, by Mrs. Trollope, a few years ago.

The churches in Munich exhibit a great variety with respect to architecture. The cathedral, with its two large brick towers, is a heavy-looking structure; its interior is plain, and rather sombre. St. Michael's Church is built more in the Italian style, and resembles, interiorly, several of the churches of Rome and Florence. The Church of the Theatines is one of the most prominent public edifices; in its interior it is profusely ornamented with stucco-work. The two most interesting churches, however, are the newly erected one in the suburb Au, and the All Saints' Church, behind the palace. The contrast between these is very striking; not only the style of architecture, but also the internal aspect, being totally different. The former is a light gothic edifice, plain internally, almost the only decoration being the finely painted glass windows: the art of painting on glass having now been brought to a state of great perfection under the auspices of King Louis. The All Saints' Church has a handsome and chaste appearance exteriorly; internally it is embellished with fresco paintings and arabesques, which produce a rich effect without being gaudy, though perhaps less calculated to excite feelings of devotion than the plain or gothic style. The Protestant Church is a neat edifice, contrasting with the other churches in the style of its architecture, and forms the most prominent object of one of the places.

The new building for the library is one of the handsomest in Munich. The collection of books is said to be the largest in Europe after the Bibliothèque Nationale at Paris. There is likewise a large collection of ancient manuscripts, and finely illustrated Bibles and missals. Strangers, who have a proper recommendation, are allowed to take home for perusal any books they please.

Munich is the seat of an university, where, however, there are but few students from other parts of Germany.

The hospital, immediately outside of the town, is a handsome modern building, the interior disposition of which will afford gratification to the casual visiter, and might serve as a model for similar institutions in other parts of the continent. It is principally supported by a trifling tax, levied among the townspeople, to which servants and others of an inferior order contribute, and when ill thus acquire a claim for admission. The wards are small, but clean and airy, being disposed along spacious corridors; each contains about twenty beds, the total number of beds being about four hundred.

Munich is comparatively free from epidemics, and is, on the whole, a healthy place of residence. The most prevalent diseases are thoracic inflammations, gastric and nervous fevers, rheumatism, and scrofulous complaints. The state of medicine and surgery, though superior to Vienna, is inferior to Berlin. Diseases of the eyes are likewise prevalent. These, as well as the surgical department at the hospital, were formerly under the direction of Professor Walther, who enjoys a well-merited reputation as a surgeon and oculist.

Near to the hospital is the spacious public Cemetery, containing several handsome marble monuments, hung with chaplets of flowers; which are likewise cultivated in patches of earth between the graves. At the further extremity is a semicircular colonnade, with central rooms, where the dead lie exposed-generally dressed in their gayest attire, with bouquets of flowers placed in their bosom for about twenty-four hours. This practice is pretty general in other parts of Germany.

The public prison will repay the trouble of a visit to those who feel an interest in such matters. There are several workshops, as manufactures of cloth, articles of clothing, &c., on which the prisoners are employed, complete silence being enjoined. A certain share of the proceeds is allotted to them; so that, when their time of imprisonment expires, they may not be altogether destitute. The punishment of death very rarely takes place in Bavaria, as no one can be executed, however strong the evidence, unless the culprit acknowledge himself guilty of the crime of which he is accused. Those who are convicted of the more atrocious crimes, are confined for a series of years or for life, or are employed in the public highways, each having the legs chained so as to prevent escape. Some of these criminals are confined in ill-ventilated cells, scarcely large enough to contain the four individuals who are lodged in each, with iron bolts attached to their legs; in the daytime their beds are placed upright against the wall, and they are occupied in carding cotton, never being allowed to leave their cells, to the unhealthiness of which their countenances bear the strongest testimony.

Among the other objects of interest in Munich is the

« EdellinenJatka »