the tongue of land which forms one side of the harbour, whence one may enjoy a charming prospect of several miles of rocky coust— •à i monti fastidi e rivis Che et sancie, è sempre verde mira Nice has long been resorted to be invalids for the sake of its winter climate, which differs materially from that of Provence and the south of France, inasmuch as it is sheltered from the rent de bise, or mistral, by the Maritime Alps on the north, and north-east, and by the Estrelles, which terminate at the sea, on the west; but still it is liable to cold winds, and the atmospherical transitions, which render a residence in the south of Europe dangerous to invalids: hence much discrimination is required in the selection of the cases likely to be benefited by its climate, as well as the proper period of residing there. The rainy season is generally over at the time when strangers begin to arrive, and the months of November. December, and January are wsually fine and warm, the temperature of the air being weldom lower than 45 degrees in the daytime, and sometimes as high as 60 degrees in the shade. The My is mostly clondless, of a deep blue colour, and the yun is often extremely powerful in the middle of the day, when the Nissards usually remain within doors. The atmosphere is light, dry, and exciting, and is consequently suited to individuals of a torpid or relaxed habit. Cold winds sometimes occur in these months, but are most severely felt in the spring, when they blow sharply from the east over the mountains, at that period covered with snow. In the spring also the sun acquires great power, rendering the climate extremely trying to invalids, especially to those labouring under disease of the lungs or of the air-passages. Nice frequently disagrees with healthy persons of an irritable or plethoric habit, inducing headache, or derangement of the digestive organs. The diet, both of those in health and invalids, will require particular attention, as several articles which agree very well in England not unfrequently disagree with people at Nice. Wine, in particular, should be taken very sparingly. Those who remain during the spring should avoid exposure to the sun's rays, by remaining in-doors in the middle of the day, or by carrying an umbrella, as there are no shady walks in the immediate neighbourhood of the town. Invalids should likewise avoid being out at sunset, as there generally arises an exhalation from the earth at that hour.* The distance from Nice to Genoa is about a hundred and twenty miles, by the beautiful road along the coast, first opened about sixteen years ago, and ever since much frequented, both on account of its magnificent scenery, and also from being the only way travellers can conveniently pass by land between Italy and the north, when the Alpine passes are blocked up with the snow. The posting is well served. The road, although at some parts extremely narrow, and indifferently de *Those desirous of detailed information respecting Nice, its environs, and climate, may refer to my work, "Nice et son Climat." Bailliere. fended by parapets, is for the most part good, and, as well as the accommodations at the inns, is much improved within the last few years. It is not often obstructed by snow; but after heavy rains, which fill the beds of the mountain torrents through which it passes, the communication is sometimes interrupted for a day or two. As the scenic beauties of this route have been dwelt upon by abler pens, I shall abstain from description, and content myself with briefly mentioning some of its most interesting spots. The road is for the most part cut, at elevations varying from one to fifteen hundred feet, out of the side of mountains which rise steeply from the sea, frequently descending to pass through towns on the shore, winding round beautiful inlets, or crossing some projecting headland, and at some parts it is hewn for several miles out of perpendicular rocks, which also, in two or three places, are excavated in grottoes for its passage. On leaving Nice, you begin to ascend hills, round which the road winds for three or four miles inland. At an elevation of about fifteen hundred feet, the sea again comes into view, and you perceive beneath the harbour of Villa Franca, with the picturesque peninsula of Ospizio. After a drive of a few miles, you descend to Mentone, in the principality of Monaco, through olive and orange plantations. This town consists chiefly of a long street on the high-road (inhabited for the most part by artisans), and of houses built on the acclivity of the hill. Though highly favoured as respects the beauty of its position, the fertility of its soil, and in being completely sheltered from cold winds, Mentone ⚫ possesses but few resources to induce visiters to pro long their sojourn. Those, however, who require tranquillity and a mild climate, and possess their own resources, would find it a not undesirable place of abode for a few weeks, especially in the spring. A short distance beyond Mentone, on the ascent of the hill to Ventimiglia, is the bridge St. Louis, crossing a picturesque ravine. From the summit of the hill are seen to advantage Mentone, and Monaco with its rocky promontory, on the one hand; on the other, St. Remo, Porto Maurizio, and numerous villages nestling at the base of precipitous cliffs on the shore. Most of the towns, however, which, from the whiteness of their houses, produce a good effect when seen at a distance, are found, on a nearer approach, to belie the impression created by their first appearance. Oneglia is a town of some importance (twelve hours distant from Nice), whence there is a road to Turin, traversed by a diligence, avoiding the mountains. On leaving this town, the traveller ascends a steep hill; on ascending the summit, a turn of the road suddenly displays to view the magnificent bay of Alassio, with numerous towns and villages skirting the shore. A small island in the bay adds to the beauty of the scene. The views in the neighbourhood of Loano and Albenga are strikingly fine-the bold and rugged mountainous semicircle contrasting agreeably with the fertility of the plain in which Albenga lies. The next town of any consequence is Finale, the approach to which is by a tunnel, pierced through the base of a rocky mountain rising precipitously from the sea, over which the road formerly passed. On advancing from Finale, the scenery increases in interest. At Noli, the gulf of Genoa, backed by a semicircle of lofty mountains, with numerous towns along the coast, and the city itself "Che al mar le sponde, il dorso ai monti, Occupa tutta, e tutta a cerchio adorna" burst upon the view, exhibiting a scene unequalled in magnificence. From Savona, the road is carried along the seashore, and, on approaching the city, is skirted with beautiful villas and gardens. You then pass through a long suburb, and, on arriving at the lighthouse, see displayed before you the harbour filled with shipping, and encircled by hills, thickly covered with palaces and villas, together with the range of fortifications carried for some miles along the heights. The entrance by the Strada Balbi, a wide street of lofty marble palaces, is strikingly fine. The Strada Nuova and the Strada Novissima are a continuation of the Balbi, and contain the splendid palaces of the ancient Genoese nobility, forming perhaps the finest streets in Europe. These, however, are almost the only ones in which carriages can pass; the rest of the town consisting chiefly of narrow passages or alleys between lofty houses, descending to the port, and thronged with pedestrians, and the mules which carry about articles of consumption. Several of these wynds are lined with rich shops, especially the Goldsmiths' street, in which a brilliant display is made of gold and silver chains and filigree work, for which the Genoese are celebrated. The manufactories of velvets likewise employ a good many of the inhabitants; the velvets are, however, inferior to those of Lyons. Gold articles are sold by the weight, a fixed price being added for the manufacture. |