-Ruins of Clazomena-Ancient Mole-Ruins of Erythræ-Shores Present and past State of Turkey-Universal Desolation-Unculti- vated Land-Causes of the Decline-Insecurity of property-Spirit of the Government and Laws-The late Changes-The Folly of the Sultan-The oppressive Despotism of the Government-Constant and gradual Decline of the Country under Turkish Dominion-Wealth of the resident Frank or European Merchants-Its Contrast to the Poverty of the Native Population-Cause of their Wealth-Turkish Government-Farming of the Revenues-Rapacity of Local Authori- ties-The Obstacles to Improvement-The Nature of the Mahometan Religion-Present State of Mussulman Conquests-The Condition of those Countries before conquered by the Turks-Their Wealth-Their Population-The State of their Manufactures-Cause of the Decline of Industry—The Turkish Wars—Administration of Justice—Greek Departure from Smyrna-Scene at Sunset-Bay of Tchesmeh- Island of Scio-The Mastic-Island of Samos-Islands of Delos-- Syra-Naxos-Fountain of Ariadne-Temple of Bacchus-Mountain of Dia-Scenery-Sunrise-Islands-Gulf of Cos-Island of Rhodes -Fortifications-Street of the Knights-Armorial Decorations-The old Cathedral-The Ramparts-The Scenery-Barbary Pilgrims from Mecca-Levantine Ladies-The Country of Rhodes Ruins-The Beauty of the Scenery-Sea Coast-Ascent of a lofty Mountain- Magnificent Prospect-English Bull-Dog-The Plain along the Coast -The Country Houses-The Streets of Rhodes--Palace-Hospital- Turkish Women-Pet Rams-Departure-Island of Cyprus-Paphos -Temple of Venus-Larneca-Famagousta-Cyprian Wine-Cli- mate-Productions-Mountains of the Holy Cross-Late Troubles-- A JOURNEY, ETC., ETC. MALTA.-FIRST CHAPTER I. IMPRESSIONS.-ZANTE.-PATRAS.-GREEKS. -GULF OF LEPANTO.-DELPHI.-MOUNT PARNASSUS. CORINTH.-NEMEA.-MYCENE.-ARGOS.-TIRYNS.- NAUPLIA.-LESSA.-GROVE OF ESCULAPIUS.-EPIDaurus. Insula est Melita, Judices, satis lato ab Sicilia mari, periculosoque disjuncta. CIC. IN VERR. THE island of Malta, with its magnificent city of La Valetta, its stupendous fortifications and capacious harbors, is well calculated to strike a stranger with astonishment and admiration; and the fleet lying at anchor in the port, with the fine regiments of the garrison within the walls, to give him a high idea of Britain's power. To an Englishman, Malta presents no ordinary attraction, and his heart swells with a feeling of national pride as he sails into the great harbor past the Castle of St. Elmo, and the triple ranges of batteries with the British flag floating above them, and surveys our noble fleet, with the Caledonia of 120 guns swinging within half pistol shot of the shore. Nor is this natural feeling of pride and admiration diminished as he ascends long flights of steps cut in the rocks, over drawbridges and through gateways, guarded by British sentinels to the town above; and, passing through the beautiful Strada Reale, or Royal Street, lined on either hand with white stone houses of rich and florid architecture, comes to the great square in front of the palace of the Grand Master, now the governor's palace, and marks the royal arms of Britain, with the inscription: VOL. I.-3 constant in all things in habits and mode of living, as in ages long since passed; so that on a close and attentive consideration of the characteristics of this peculiar people, and of their mode of life, he finds himself, as it were, carried back to the earliest ages of which we have any record-to the time of the patriarchs-and observes a faithful transcript of many customs described in the Old Testament, and many copies of pastoral scenes there vividly depicted. He sees the inhabitants living in tents; their whole wealth consists in their flocks of goats and camels, and the old men, with gray hairs, still seat themselves at the "tent doors," as in the time of Father Abraham. The women may be perceived "dealing out measures of fine meal, kneading it, and making cakes upon the hearth," and the virtue of hospitality is still practised with religious scrupulousness, and the tender kid is still killed and dressed, and "served up with butter and milk," to the hungry and weary stranger. Thin cakes of unleavened bread, baked upon the hot ashes, still serve as the principal food of the people, and those who undertake a journey furnish themselves, at the present day, with "a bottle of water" and a provision of "bread," such as Abraham put upon the shoulder of Hagar, when he sent her away with the child, "and she departed and wandered in the wilderness of Beersheba." The English traveller, in pursuing his journey over the wilderness to Palmyra, still has his watter-bottle slung to his saddle-bow; and on his arrival, after many long hours of fatiguing march, the bottle is let down into the water, as did Hagar" when she saw a well of water; and she went and filled the bottle with water and gave the lad to drink." Disputes with regard to the wells of water in the wilderness, such as took place between Abraham and the servants of Abimelech, still occur, and covenants are still made between the chiefs of different tribes with respect to the right of pasturing cattle on certain districts, such as were made with regard to a well by Abraham and Abimelech, when the covenant was ratified by the respective parties exchanging a certain number of sheep and oxen. Circumstances and events are constantly varying, and something new generally falls under the notice of every inquiring traveller. The incidents and remarks in the following volumes were written during moments of rest and leisure, after fatiguing journeys; and some of them may be found useful to those desirous of proceeding on a similar excursion to the countries described. The time occupied in travelling on horseback, or on dromedaries, between different places, is accurately given, and the season of the author's visit, is much the best that can be chosen. A spirit of inquiry is now widely spreading, and the increasing number of travellers, who each year assemble at Malta as a starting point for a Journey to the East, may find the contents of the following |