Malta-First Impressions-Maltese Girls-Cathedral-Fortifica- tions-The British Fleet-Zante-Patras-Greeks-Costumes- Scenery-Antiquities-The Modern Patras-Departure-Greek Sai- lors-Gulf of Lepanto-Wild Scenery-Village of Crissa-Djesphi- na-Castri-Castalian Fountain-Ruins-Village of Arracova- Mount Parnassus-Grecian Scenery-Ruins of Sicyon-Port of Le- chæum-Corinth-Its desolate Aspect-Ruins-The Acropolis- Magnificent Prospect-Greek Girls-Bavarian Soldiers-Nemea- Ruins-Mycena-Cyclopean Walls-Gate of Lions-Tombs-Aga- memnon's Tomb-Treasuries of Atreus-Argos-Ruined Theatre- Island of Ægina-Temple of Jupiter-Gulf of Salamis-Megara- Ruins and Desolation-Beautiful Statue-Aspect of the Country- Grecian Peasantry-Lovely Scenery-Police Officer and Passports- Greek Women and Well of Water-Eleusis-Ruins-Plain of Athens -Athenian Ruins-Areopagus-Pnyx-Temple of Jupiter-Chora- gic Monument-Propylæa-Erectheum-Temple of the Wingless Present State of Greece-Depopulation-Waste Land-Miserable condition of the Country-Cause of its Decline-Imbecility of the present Government-Their lavish Expenditure-Bavarian Soldiers- Bavarian Officials-Greek Loan-Government Measures-Bavarian Regency-Factions-Government Offices-Hate against the Bava- rians-Discontent-Cumbrous Civil Government-Soldiers-Judges Departure from Athens-Last Impressions-Last View of the Ruins-English and Athenian Architecture-English bad Taste- Journey to Piraeus-The long Walls-Greek Muleteers-Piraeus- Moonlight Scenery-Talk with a Greek-Insalubrity of the Climate -Departure from Piræus-Coast Scenery-Island of Gaidaronisi- Midnight Scene-Cape Colonna-Temple of Minerva-Island of Zea -Island of Syra-Greek Women-Old Syra-Hermopolis-Com- Syra-Departure-Delos-Delian Damsels--Island of Scio-Orange and Lemon Groves-Ruined Houses-Devastation and Desolation- Turkish Massacre-Violation of Females-Murder of eight hundred Gardeners-Present State of the Island-Gulf of Smyrna-Port of Foggia-Turkish Men and Women-Turkish Cemetery-Asiatic Scenery-Smyrna-Bazaars-Merchandise-Carpets-Silks-Pipes Smoking-Turkish Women-Armenian Church-Armenian School and Library--Greek Fête--Greek Girls--Caravan Bridge--Caravans --Scenery--Hussein Bey-Bastinado--Slave Market--Murder of a Greek--Frank Merchants--Casinos-Oriental Seenery and Impres- Smyrna-Departure--Turks in a Steamer--Dining--Smoking— Turkish Girl--Turkish Ladies--Island of Mitylin--The Troad- The Dardanelles--Turkish Conscripts--Gallipoli--Ruined Castle- Sea of Marmora-First View of Constantinople-Seraglio-Gardens Constantinople-Boats-Costumes-The Grand Signior-State Pro- cession Horses-Troops-Women-Galata-Tower of Anastasius- Great Cemetery-Dogs-Bazaars-Merchandise-Turkish Women -Bezesteen-Cook Shop-Kabobs-Scenery-Streets and Houses- Madhouse-Madmen-Janissary Aga's Tower-View from she Sum- Constantinople-Barbers' Shops-Ancient Aqueduct-Janissary Barracks-Janissaries-Tatian's Column-Ancient Cisterns-Cistern of Philoxinus-Burnt Column-Great Cistern-Hippodrome-Obelisk -Delphic Pillar-Historic Column-Antiquities-Ancient Cistern- Pereotes-Christian Churches in Pera- Galata-Topana-Greek Women-Turkish Fête-Juggler-Turkish Women-Turkish Dan- dy-Mosques-Soolimanee-The Tomb of Soliman-Mosque of Sul- Constantinople-The Ancient Walls-The Seven Towers-Wine Constantinople-Removal of the Sultan's Harem--The Ladies of The Harem-Procession by Water-Scutari-Howling Dervishes- The great Cemetery-The Sultan's new Palace-Libraries of Con- stantinople-The Power of the Sultan-Environs of Constantinople- Belgrade-Aqueducts--Boyookdere--Therapiah--Black Sea-Dancing Dervishes-Plague-Vessels of War--The Mahmoud Bey--Turkish Reforms-Nature of the Government-The Bosphorus-The past and present State of Constantinop'e-Opulence of the City under the Greek Emperors-Churches--Palaces-Luxury of the People-Gra Departure from Constantinople-The Prince's Islands--Mondania -Prusa-Baths-Monuments-Mulberry Groves-Mount Olympus Nicæa, or Nice-Monhallick-River Rhyndicus-Palus Apolloniatis -Sousgourle-Balikcser-Mulberry Trees-Asiatic Scenery-Kel- embeh-Thyatira--Inscriptions-Mermerc-Tumulus of Halyattes -Gygean Lake--Tumuli--Sardis-Ruins-Temple of Cybele-- Acropolis-The Pactolus-Philadelphia--Lovely Scenery-Cassouba Smyrna-Plague-Its Propagation-Precautions taken-The Cas- tle Hill-Magnificent Scenery-Village of Bournabat--Country Villas -Greek Women-Promenades-Boujah-Society-Weather-Scene- ry-The Little Paradise-The Great Paradise-Village of Sedek uy- Villas-Smyrna-The Plague Hospital-Plague Doctors-Boujah-- Greek Ladies' Costume-Frank Merchants-Armenians-Turkish Character-Turkish Watchman-His Conversation-His Candor- The Aga of Boujah-Turkish Justice-Dance at the Aga's House- The Ruins of Ephesus-The Temple of Diana-The surrounding -Ruins of Clazomena-Ancient Mole-Ruins of Erythræ-Shores of the Gulf-Turkish Castle-Turkish Harem.-197. CHAPTER XIV. Present and past State of Turkey-Universal Desolation-Uncultivated Land-Causes of the Decline-Insecurity of property-Spirit of the Government and Laws-The late Changes-The Folly of the Sultan-The oppressive Despotism of the Government-Constant and gradual Decline of the Country under Turkish Dominion-Wealth of the resident Frank or European Merchants-Its Contrast to the Poverty of the Native Population-Cause of their Wealth-Turkish Government-Farming of the Revenues-Rapacity of Local Authorities—The Obstacles to Improvement―The Nature of the Mahometan Religion-Present State of Mussulman Conquests-The Condition of those Countries before conquered by the Turks-Their Wealth-Their Population-The State of their Manufactures-Cause of the Decline of Industry-The Turkish Wars-Administration of Justice-Greek Ball-Modern Greek Language-The Scenery about Smyrna-Rayahs or Greek Subjects of the Porte-Greek Funeral.-215. CHAPTER XV. Departure from Smyrna-Scene at Sunset-Bay of TchesmehIsland of Scio-The Mastic-Island of Samos-Islands of Delos-Syra-Naxos-Fountain of Ariadne-Temple of Bacchus-Mountain of Dia-Scenery-Sunrise-Islands-Gulf of Cos-Island of Rhodes -Fortifications-Street of the Knights-Armorial Decorations-The old Cathedral-The Ramparts-The Scenery-Barbary Pilgrims from Mecca-Levantine Ladies-The Country of Rhodes Ruins-The Beauty of the Scenery-Sea Coast-Ascent of a lofty MountainMagnificent Prospect-English Bull-Dog-The Plain along the Coast -The Country Houses-The Streets of Rhodes-Palace-HospitalTurkish Women-Pet Rams-Departure-Island of Cyprus-Paphos -Temple of Venus-Larneca-Famagousta-Cyprian Wine-Cli. mate-Productions-Mountains of the Holy Cross-Late Troubles-Present State of the Island.-233. A JOURNEY, ETC., ETC. CHAPTER I. MALTA.-FIRST IMPRESSIONS.-ZANTE.-PATRAS.-GREEKS. -GULF OF LEPANTO.-DELPHI.-MOUNT PARNASSUS. CORINTH.-NEMEA.-MYCENE.-ARGOS.-TIRYNS.- NAUPLIA.-LESSA.-GROVE OF ESCULAPIUS.-EPIdaurus. Insula est Melita, Judices, satis lato ab Sicilia mari, periculosoque disjuncta. Cic. IN VERR. THE island of Malta, with its magnificent city of La Valetta, its stupendous fortifications and capacious harbors, is well calculated to strike a stranger with astonishment and admiration; and the fleet lying at anchor in the port, with the fine regiments of the garrison within the walls, to give him a high idea of Britain's power. To an Englishman, Malta presents no ordinary attraction, and his heart swells with a feeling of national pride as he sails into the great harbor past the Castle of St. Elmo, and the triple ranges of batteries with the British flag floating above them, and surveys our noble fleet, with the Caledonia of 120 guns swinging within half pistol shot of the shore. Nor is this natural feeling of pride and admiration diminished as he ascends long flights of steps cut in the rocks, over drawbridges and through gateways, guarded by British sentinels to the town above; and, passing through the beautiful Strada Reale, or Royal Street, lined on either hand with white stone houses of rich and florid architecture, comes to the great square in front of the palace of the Grand Master, now the governor's palace, and marks the royal arms of Britain, with the inscription: VOL. I.-3 |