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rected, they take up their residence with another family, to desert it hereafter in the same way. This is a great barrier to the right management of the native children, who can at once forsake their parents, should the correction or restraints they impose, become irksome to them.

ders, with a bonnet generally made of pressed paper, in imitation of straw, and profusely decorated with broad bright coloured ribbon. The last mentioned article is in very extensive use, and is sold to great advantage by almost every body here. I was one day trying to purchase a piece of ornamented native cloth, and offered an equal length of English print for it; but the owner refused this remuneration, demanding a similar length of ribbon instead. The gay colours worn by the whites, are, of course, zealously imitated by the poor natives, whose clothing seems to be adopted rather from vanity, or deference to foreign customs, than from necessity, or a sense of decorum.

The Tahitian mode of living is certainly very much in the simplicity, or perhaps more properly, in the rudeness, of nature. Their houses afford a shelter from the rain, and a receptacle for their little property; which consists of a few imported articles of clothing for special occasions, some food, nets, sleeping mats, and a display of firelocks: comforts, conveniences, and luxuries, (according to our ideas,) are for the most part unknown. One apartment usually accommodates the whole household, which generally consists of individuals of all ages, more or less related to each other, and herded together in considerable numbers. When at home, the usual employment of the men appears to be the preparation of food or oil, gardening and making nets, and that of the women the manufacture of native cloth, cooking and sewing; but both sexes are very frequently found unemployed, perhaps smoking, or playing with a ball and string. The men ordinarily wear very little clothing: the women a loose piece of print or calico thrown round the waist, leaving, except in the presence of foreigners, or when 'dressed out,' the upper part of the figure nearly or entirely exposed. The young children frequently go quite naked. A true native hut contains neither table, chair nor bed,-the reed-covered soil which forms a floor, serving the purposes of all. The food is spread on leaves, and the people sit round on their heels, squatted on the ground; and when recumbent, they lie upon mats, covered with folds of their native bark cloth. This cloth is made from the bark of several trees,-a large On the 23rd, arrangements were made for proportion of what is used here, from that of visiting the opposite side of the island, where the bread fruit tree. This is beaten into thin a number of natives, and one English family sheets, which are rendered tenacious by the reside. The direction of the trade-wind rengum they contain, when properly dried in the dered the longest route most eligible, and we sun. When fit for use, this ingenious sub-pursued our course among coral rocks within stitute for woven goods, resembles coarse the reefs. In a few hours we arrived opposite paper it is, however, less easily torn, and a famous entrance through the reef, formerly generally somewhat thinner. It forms but a harsh, uncomfortable drapery, and will not bear properly washing, being injured by moisture, without much friction; but habit and necessity render it tolerable, and it is very readily made. When dressed for chapel, the men generally wear a foreign shirt, and a piece of print or blue cotton wrapped round *The Tamanu (calophyllum Inophyllum,) was the waist: the women a similar girdle of some formerly held sacred in the South Sea Islands. It light material, and either a kind of loose gown, is a noble tree,-in general appearance something or a shawl, of calico, thrown over the shoul-resembling the oak.

Taloo Harbour, Island of Eimeo, Ninth month 12th, 1835.-This is a most romantic spot, surrounded by almost perpendicular hills, towering nearly four thousand feet, with a. broken fantastic outline. As in Tahiti, there is a margin of lowland next the water, which produces abundant crops of fruit and vegeta bles; but the proportion of this fertile soil is small, and as a whole, probably, this is the less productive island of the two. Its scenery is wilder and more diversified, and the ridges are much more angular and rugged than those of Tahiti, some of them, where huge black rocks and foliage blend in the obscurity of distance, resembling the broken fragments of a stupendous ruin. Many parts are nearly perpendicular for hundreds of feet, and of course quite inaccessible. The summit of a mountain that skirts one side of Taloo Harbour, extending for a considerable distance at an elevation of three thousand feet, is yet so narrow, we are told, in some places, that a man cannot walk along it, but is obliged to push himself forward in a sitting posture, grasping the mountain with his legs.

held sacred on account of a large marai, called Orua, situated on the beach near it. Here we landed and explored the marai, with its ruined piles of rock, its consecrated enclosures, pray. ing-stones, and venerable grove of Aitos and Tamanus.* The whole neighbourhood is

overgrown with trees and climbers, and the ruins are so completely dilapidated, that it is difficult to appreciate the original design. Many smaller heaps of stone, and the remains of pavements, steps, and praying-stones are seen near the principal pile,-the whole forming an enduring relic of superstition, and a proof of the laborious zeal of idolaters. After surveying this gloomy grove, once associated with scenes of horror and death, we continued an intricate passage through innumerable beds of coral, till we reached Afareàitu, and were cordially welcomed by the resident English family.

27th. We heard some days since that more ardent spirits has just been brought to Tahiti by a schooner from Valparaiso, which is now trading in them. When we left Tahiti, another American vessel was there selling all she could of this destructive poison; in fact, the chief articles of barter for cocoa-nut oil and arrow-root that she seemed to have, were fire-arms and brandy, and these she was retailing round the coast. Her supercargo told me himself, that he had sold all the brandy he could get rid of, and between one and two hundred muskets. He is quite a youth, but well enough suited for the task he has undertaken, being a profligate, thoughtless fellow, initiated into the trade, which he avows his intention to continue. What could be more completely barbarous than this traffic, carried on with uncivilized nations at the present day; and that too by professing Christians!

During the afternoon of tenth month 15th, we rambled for exercise on the public road, along the coast, and saw a curious salt-water lake, situated about two miles to the northward of the harbour. It is a magnificent sheet of water, encircled by mountains and tropical forests; and probably would have been still more gratifying to eyes less familiar with the water than ours. There is, however, an essential distinction between the prospects to which we are accustomed, and inland lake scenery. The characteristic of the former is ceaseless fluctuation,-that of the latter unbroken tranquillity.

half starved hogs and dogs occupying every corner in the neighbourhood, do not constitute the most delightful objects, though viewed in the far-famed South Sea Islands.

Our afternoon ramble on the 17th, led to the site of William Ellis's residence. The vicinity is completely overgrown with guavas, and the most authentic traces of its former occupant are discoverable in some fine fruit-trees, planted in the immediate neighbourhood of the house. We afterwards took tea at the mission-house, and were shown the press which is occasionally employed in printing native lessons, laws, &c.

On the afternoon of the 24th, we accompanied one of the missionaries on an excursion up the salt-water lake mentioned before. After walking about two miles, we embarked in a canoe, and were pushed along the shore by a man with a long pole;-a method adopted where the water is shallow, as the most expeditious mode of propelling their light barks. In about an hour we reached the farther end of the lagoon, distant perhaps five miles from the place of embarkation. The banks as we went along appeared thickly wooded and very thinly inhabited, exhibiting little variety, beside the occasional remains of marais, of which there are a great number. Our native conductor pointed out the particular pile of stones appropriated to his family, on which he had himself offered gifts to the supposed gods of Tahiti. He mentioned having been present on one occasion when a human victim was taken near this lake:-he was a boy at the time, and was rambling along the bank, when a party of men, led by a chief, approached the spot where he was, and where also the object of their pursuit happened to be. The chief, when he discovered his victim, bade him climb a cocoa-nut tree, which he of course instantly did. He ordered him to pluck some nuts for them, and when this was done, to break off a leaf, and come down. The leaf was to form a basket for his own body to be carried in. On coming down he was forthwith despatched. Our informant run away in great fear, while the murderers laughed at his terror, and exulted in their easy capture.

Among the enclosures of the natives here, there is greater indication of industry than we remarked in Tahiti, and many of the houses Faré Harbour. Huahine.-In personal are built in the civilized manner, with win- appearance, there is no perceptible difference dows, plastered walls, &c. Nevertheless the between the natives of this island and those dwellings we have seen have by no means a of Tahiti ; and from what we have seen, their comfortable aspect, and the general effect of progress in civil, social, and religious improvethe native settlements is not particularly pleas- ment is precisely similar. I think more pains ing. Unfurnished, dirty huts, surrounded with have been bestowed on their instruction; but, lumber, the remains of food, &c., naked chil-as far as our observation has extended, they dren, and all but naked parents, working, or occupy much the same position as their Georrolling about, smoking or playing, sleeping or gian neighbours in the scale of civilization, waking, as the case may be; with groups of mental development and morality. On the VOL. VII.-No. 9.

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whole, I should suppose a larger proportion to be worth nearly a dollar,—about four times of the population is more or less acquainted its value in England. Gaudy-coloured ribwith the rudiments of reading and writing; bons are about the same price. A musket though many are ignorant of these, and it is costing at home perhaps 12s. is sold at Tahiti not impossible that less constant intercourse for seven or eight dollars. with the shipping may have prevented some of that licentious degradation, which peculiarly characterizes the vicinity of sea-ports. Only one ship has been here during our stay, but in her case considerable irregularities were committed. The use of spirits is just now generally laid aside, and doubtless this salutary regulation will tend to prevent many evils.

Raiatea. The natural scenery of Raiatea resembles what I have already described in the other islands, but is for the most part less picturesque than any other we have yet seen. It is a much larger island than Huahine, and is supposed to contain fourteen or fifteen hundred people; the whole of whom belong, nominally, to the settlement of Uturoa, though they are of course found scattered round the coast, as most convenient to themselves. Tahaa, a smaller island, containing a population of four or five hundred souls, subject to the same government, is situated a few miles to the northward, and is included within the same reef as Raiatea. This reef is precisely similar to what we have before seen, and extends round the two islands at a considerable distance, affording several excellent harbours, to which commodious channels furnish an easy access. The one in which we are lying is entered from the eastward, through a fine passage between two small islands, and is a spacious basin, capable of containing a large fleet, with a passage at the opposite end to leeward of the island. Nothing could well be more convenient; and although from the circumstance that its shelter, the reef, is as usual low and bare, good tackle is required in the anchorage; yet this stupendous barrier affords a most complete defence from the ocean. Coral and shells are plentiful, but the latter rather dear. Provisions seem to be rather lower than at Tahiti, where more competition diminishes the value of foreign articles of barter. Even there, things are very cheap for the most part. The common price for a good sized hog is six or eight yards of print, or from three to four dollars. Horned cattle are plentiful in all the islands we have yet seen, and are principally the property of the missionaries. When several ships can agree to take an ox among them, beef is sold at about 2d. per lb. Broad print, or cotton dyed a blue colour, is a favourite article of barter, and is always sold by the fathom, this length being convenient for the garment worn round the waist. A fathom is reckoned

On the afternoon of eleventh month 2nd, we walked out for exercise along the settlement of Uturoa, which extends some distance by the sea-side, and called to see an old chief who is said to have been the principal instigator of the last war with Bolabola; to which perhaps more than to any other obvious reason, the present deteriorated condition of this people and the miserable falling away in Bolabola must be attributed. Beside the numerous evils inevitably incident to a nation engaged in hostilities with its neighbours, it is from this fatal period that both islands date the general introduction of spirits; which has proved no less detrimental to the community than fighting. Here, happily, the law has been passed for their prohibition; but in the other island their ravages still continue. We saw four pieces of cannon taken from the Bolabolans, which were used in the late contest; originally brought by a trading vessel from New Zealand, and sold to the poor natives at the rate of eighty hogs each. They are said to have belonged to the unfortunate Boyd, and to have been raised from her wreck by the New Zealanders.

On the 3rd of eleventh month, we started in company with C. Barff and a little boy on an excursion to the famous marai of Tabutabu Atea,-situated in the district of Apôa. The wind being against us all the way, it was a hard pull of about twelve miles, which occupied nearly three hours, and unfortunately for us it rained at intervals most of the time. The object of our curiosity is situated on a projecting piece of low land, running from the base of a considerable hill to the beach, and retains abundant features to identify it with the late system of horrors. An enormous banyan tree grows quite near it, and which could not fail to attract our notice and admiration. Like all other specimens of this extraordinary tree, it consists of a column of matted fibrous trunks, intersecting, supporting, or distorting each other, surmounted by a fine head of foliage; from which fall those slender, cord-like tendrils which connect roots and branches, and thus furnish the means of continual increase in size. Exclusive of these junior supporters, what may be called the stem of this enormous and complicated fabric, measured by paces forty-six yards in circumference; and I should think at least twenty men might conceal themselves in its truly gigantic mass. Between this natural curiosity and the marai, under the shade of a grove, is seen the space of ground

appropriated to the dances, once so much in vogue here, in celebration of their abominable orgies.

Bolabola, Eleventh month 11th.-In the afternoon we walked through the settlement, and saw several sick and infirm persons. My father distributed several pairs of spectacles where they seemed to be most needed, among the more serious natives who could read. One of these, a cripple, we found in his hut with his Bible before him, and two muskets hanging over his head: he is a constant attender of the school, acting as teacher as well as he is able. On our walks here we have generally been attended by a group of children, who frolic round the strangers, and afford much amusement by their sprightliness, wildness and curiosity. They are really fine, intelligent little creatures. Some of them look healthy, but too many bear marks of the prevailing disorders, which have been deplorably neglected among these islanders. A more invaluable present could scarcely be sent to them than a good supply of drugs,-particularly calomel, salts, sulphur, ipecacuanha, opium and rhubarb. It is true, in many places there is no one to administer them, and in others they would not be administered to the greatest advantage, for want of professional knowledge; but if sent to the care of some of the missionaries, they would confer a great blessing. C. B. does much in relieving the poor creatures around him, by his own exertions in this way.

ensures for the present in Eimeo an external attention to the services of the chapel; but the very existence of this detestable regulation indicates unsoundness. The fact that the poor native is subjected to a penalty if he absents himself from the chapel, and the sight of a man with a stick ransacking the villages for worshippers, before the hour of service, a spectacle we have witnessed,—are so utterly abhorrent to our notions, that I cannot revert to the subject without feelings of regret and disgust.

The general appearance of the country, and of the inhabitants of Huahine, is similar to Tahiti, and the popular habits seem nearly the same. The soil is exceedingly prolific, demanding but little labour. Hogs and domestic fowls are pretty numerous, but horned cattle are only found in the possession of the missionary and a few others; and indeed it is undesirable that they should increase much, as they certainly are a great nuisance among the native plantations. In Tahiti and Eimeo they abound and run wild, preying upon the fruits and damaging the fences in parts that cannot be easily watched.

Both Raiatea and Tahaa are fine fertile islands, capable of supporting ten times their present population; but there is no prospect of increase under present circumstances; and if the sweeping bane of ardent spirits is readmitted, the numbers will rapidly decline. Even in Huahine, where things are undoubtedly better managed and the people more instructed, the number of births and deaths are just about equal. C. B.. told us that he hoped South Pacific, Eleventh month 19th, 1835. during the present year, there would be a However deficient my accounts of the islands small preponderance in favour of the former. we have just left may appear, it would be no The more abandoned portion of the commudifficult matter to add considerably to the in-nity scarcely ever have families, and many terest felt in their perusal, had my object of the children that are born are miserably been merely to draw a pleasing picture. I have noticed the causes which operate in producing the very false impression which certainly is produced by reading the reports of some former visitors. There are many circumstances connected with the South Sea Islands, peculiarly fascinating and poetical, and these have been made the most of by some of their delineators. My wish, that a simple statement should produce a simple and correct impression, has induced me to confine my remarks pretty much to matters of plain fact, more or less intimately connected with our own progress or the object of the voyage. Of Tahiti, I have already given you some particulars, also of Eimeo. The government, laws, and people of the other Georgian Isles, are essentially the same, and the state of society not materially different. The same compulsory system which obtains in Tahiti,

diseased, so that a little aggravation of circumstances, such as a return to general intemperance, would make existing causes adequate for a speedy extermination. I trust, however, these islanders may be preserved, after having survived the bloody era of human immolation, infanticide, and other pagan atrocities,-from falling victims to vices introduced and kept up by "Christians."

But of all the islands in the Society group, Bolabola exhibits at the present time the most melancholy spectacle. It is indeed a lovely island, and wants only a moral and industrious population, and a consistent united government, to ensure its national prosperity. But, exhausted by the late struggle with Raiatea, the chiefs divided among themselves, all moral restraints disregarded by one faction, and every excess openly sanctioned ;—the other party, who still adhere nominally to

the cause of the missionaries, left to support kept at work: at present printing the New their own principles,-there is little of a Testament, a geography, the Hawaii newspa pleasing nature to be said respecting it. The per, (Ke Kumu Hawaii,)—and a music-book more sober part of the people seemed tractable for a volume of hymns. The newspaper last enough; but it is scarcely to be expected that year was twice its present size, and sold for they will maintain their ground, associated twice its present price, which is half a dollar with and related as they are, to the lawless annually: it was published every fortnight, faction. At the time of our visit the fruit and 3500 copies were circulated. Probably season had not arrived, and consequently the its circulation will be much increased this seameans of distillation were not within their son. It is a small but neat paper, containing power; but a few weeks would furnish them information on subjects calculated to interest with an abundant harvest of bread-fruit, &c., the people, such as natural history, and parand it was greatly feared, that last year's ex- ticular occurrences in the islands; and the cesses would again be indulged in, and a demand indicates a relish on the part of the famine produced by the consumption of every natives for such a source of instruction and article of food in the making of spirits. amusement. We were pleased with the machinery in the establishment, which is in good repair, and is worked entirely by natives, under the direction of a foreign printer and binder.

The people here have much less of foreign clothing than the natives of the other islands, possessing fewer opportunities of obtaining it, and having wasted their means in drinking. This circumstance alone prevents many from There are at present residing in Honolulu, attending chapel, when a missionary is here. belonging to the American Board of Missions, Whatever their motive might be, the better two ordained' ministers, a doctor, a booksort appeared extremely eager to supply them-binder, a printer, and a secular agent.' A selves with clothing, and would part with al- missionary from one of the other islands is most any thing they possessed, (which is not here just now with his family. The above are much, poor creatures!) to obtain a bit of print all married men, although one or two of their or calico. number are quite young; and they all reside in the same neighbourhood, forming quite a community among themselves.

The settlement is composed of wicker huts, with the exception of one or two dilapidated houses, the chapel and the mission-house. The end of the week is almost universally The island is extremely fertile, producing vast adopted in Oahu as a time for riding on horsequantities of bread-fruit; but it is by no means back; and accordingly the roads and comwell supplied with water, and on this account mons swarm with the gentry of the neighcan never become a general resort for ship-bourhood, who vie with each other in risking ping, although it possesses a most magnificent harbour. We saw a spring or two, which furnish a constant supply; but the water usually found among the natives is nearly unfit for use, except during the rainy season.

their necks. Foreigners, native nobility, and others, are seen galloping about in all directions, to the discomfiture, or at least the bodily fear' of sober pedestrians. The Sandwich Island women are really very adroit on horseback; but the posture in which these amazons choose to exhibit, violates every feeling of refinement.

As a missionary station, it is at present abandoned; but we saw nothing about the chiefs and people of the more respectable party particularly discouraging. On the con- 22nd.-Some efforts have lately been maktrary, I feel no doubt that a large portion of ing on the part of both natives and foreigners, the inhabitants, whose interest in every point in the way of petitioning the government here of view it would certainly be to protect such for the suppression of spirit-selling, which is a resident, are capable of appreciating the increased to a shocking extent. The king, value of a conscientious missionary. The unhappily, is fond of drinking himself, and lawless faction are at present incorrigible; but moreover derives considerable emolument from the removal of their leader would no doubt the licenses to vend this pernicious article; so terminate their career, and this is an event that surrounded as he is by ill-advisers, there by no means improbable, if he persist in his is little hope that any alteration will take present intemperate habits. One of his sons place at present. Many of the foreign resi fell a victim to intemperance only a few weeks dents defend the sale and use of spirits; which back. is one principal source of profit with some of them. The village of Honolulu is supposed to contain about two hundred foreigners, and we can only hear of two houses among those who are traders, not more or less concerned in the sale of spirits. There are at

Sandwich Isles, Oahu.-On the 7th of first month, 1836, we visited the mission establishment and looked through the printing, binding, composing-rooms, &c. Two presses are

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