present about fifteen grog shops, where all kinds of distilled liquors are sold at a very low rate. I have not yet seen a single native intoxicated, and really believe the drinking is almost exclusively confined to the foreigners and half-castes. One of the white inhabitants was killed in a drunken quarrel just before our arrival; and a captain narrowly escaped the same fate a few days since, having the temporal artery cut in a fray on shore. Among the sailors, the evil of drinking is greatly upheld by masters and owners of ships, whose practice has a tendency to perpetuate the grievance which they pretend to deplore. How absurd on board vessels lying at anchor, in a hot climate, where the men | are in a state of almost continual excitement in consequence of what they get when on shore, to give out regularly to each man, and even in some cases to each boy, an allowance of rum every day! scattered over the country below, were seen like specks on the green surface; and the white dwelling of the missionary at the Kolóa station was just discoverable on the distant shore. Behind us lay the fine romantic slope, by which we had reached this truly imposing pass, skirted by a chain of luxuriant hills on each side, and covered with an exuberance of vegetation peculiar to the tropics:—the harbour and its floating occupants and the dim expanse of ocean beyond it, terminating the prospect in the west. After collecting some curious plants and land-shells, and feasting our eyes on the magnificent scenery of the place, we commenced a return towards the inhabited world, and arrived safe in Honolulu soon after sun-set. These islanders, like all the other uncivilized tribes whom we have seen, are fond of tobac co, and carry the practice of smoking it to a singular extreme. They inhale the fumes into the lungs, and quickly feel their stupifying effects. In some of the islands, the use of it is made illegal; and we have heard of an instance in which a strange expedient was resorted to, in order to supply the place of this narcotic;-this was to press two or three of the arteries in the neck till dizziness was produced, and the individual fell down insensible, recovering after some time, as from a fit of intoxication. Thus stupor and forgetfulness are proved to constitute great part of the gratification supposed to be afforded by smoking. The missionaries are very often censured for trying to suppress the use of tobacco; but the Sandwich Islanders carry smoking to such an extent, that their influence seems very properly directed to abolish it. 17th. The harbour has been a good deal disturbed by the yells of a band of north-westcoast Indians, who are quartered on board a On the 2nd of second month, I accompanied Captain C. and his sister on an excursion inland, to see the famous mountain pass of Oahu. It is situated about seven or eight miles up a fine valley, which stretches across the centre of the island, behind the village of Honolulu. After crossing the plain of lava which lies along the coast, our route was along a winding path, through brooks and foliage and steep ravines; which by a very gradual ascent led us eventually to the verge of the precipice. Here the most imposing spectacle is presented. Before us-from the bare torrent-worn rocks which surmount this giant barrier-was spread a wide undulated tract of country, bounded by the then tranquil ocean, and varied by woods, meadows, and sheets of water, all distinctly exhibited at one view beneath our feet. The point on which we stood is the verge of a precipice, perhaps eight hun-hulk at anchor near us. These poor fellows dred or a thousand feet high; which is ascended from the eastward by a winding staircase track, leading from rock to rock, in some places nearly perpendicular. From this track the frightful depth is in many parts concealed by bushes and projecting points of the cliff; a circumstance which makes the danger of ascent and descent much less than it could otherwise be but from the dizzy summit, the eye fathoms at a glance the tremendous void below. On the left was seen the termination of a cliff, which towers like a pillar from the These Indians differ widely in character and vale beneath high into the air above our heads, appearance from the South Sea Islanders. with a boldness and sublimity altogether inde- They are wary, intelligent people, rather Jewscribable: on the right, a bank of rich foliage ish in their expression of countenance, and rose from the plain to the very summit of the not so handsome as the Polynesians. Their mountain, with a richness and grandeur equal-heads are remarkably large,-their faces broad ly beyond the reach of words,-though less and eyes deep,-hair long, straight and black, striking to the eye. The huts of the natives and complexions swarthy. Their language is come here to receive payment for their furs, and for services which the ships obtain from them on the coast; and they being fond of rum, and rum being very plentiful among their employers, the result might be easily predicted. Howling, dancing, and drumming on a piece of wood form their amusements, to which quarrelling and fighting may be added. One of them was drowned a short time since close to our vessel, by falling into the water by night in a state of intoxication. particularly disagreeable to the car: few of tion: a descent soon restores the less pleasing reality of common life in the desert of a strange land. Island of Tanai, Sandwich Group,-Koloa Station, Sixth month 20th, 1836.-Being kindly furnished with a steed and conductor, I undertook an excursion along the sea shore to see a curious cavern in the rock, through which the surf rushes to a considerable distance underground, and hurls a column of foam with tremendous force into the air, like a magnificent fountain. There are several such cavities in the lava, on the shore of this island; the largest we saw lies a considerable distance from the anchorage at Koloa, to the westward. The coast is composed of rude masses of lava, extending in every rugged form along the margin of the sea, and occasionally rising into huge perpendicular cliffs. The phenomenon in question, is merely caused by a passage which leads from beneath the surf, when it rolls up the strand, and opens like a well, some little distance inland, sufficiently removed from the breakers to give the fountain an isolated appearance. When a heavy swell breaks on the shore, the air in this unexplored cavern is driven with tremendous noise through its sounding caves, and from one or more mouths is projected a momentary blast of white foam, to the height probably of twenty or thirty Fourth month 6th, 1836.—I was invited to join in another equestrian excursion, with my former kind companions; and a remarkably fine day proved highly propitious to our enjoyment, although previous rains, which rendered the steeps less accessible, prevented our ascending the mountains so far as had been proposed. We reached sufficient elevation, however, to obtain a magnificent view of the coast, village, harbour, and ocean, and to be surrounded by rich hills and dales, which blend with indescribable loveliness. The valleys-literally huge ravines between the heights, which conduct the fertilizing streams to the shore, are but thinly inhabited; but they teem with exuberant vegetation. The mountains are very finely wooded, and the more open parts of the hills are studded over with cattle. As we were situated when at the highest point of our journey, the deep vales spread beneath us with an enchanting variety; and feet. As the wave retires, all is still on the summit rising over summit into the clouds, marked the multitude of hills which stretch towards the coast in wild fantastic ranges. Punch-bowl Hill, a brown volcanic mound of a circular form, probably about five hundred feet high, looked quite diminutive from our superior elevation, and its fortified top was completely exposed beneath us; though from the harbour, this hill appears large. You can scarely form an idea of the exhilarating feeling, which the mind experiences on these noble heights in a tropical climate. Here all is wild, and bold, and majestic; the air is pure and cool, and the solitude is unbroken by a sound less romantic than the lowing of herds, the murmur of descending waters, or the simple notes of songsters dwelling unseen in the wooded recesses. The eye,-accustomed below to parched, naked plains,-here luxuriates on the smooth slopes, the deep shades, or the towering forest-clothed peaks and ridges, and the lungs inhale new life and vigour in the free, bracing atmosphere of a more genial A constant trade breeze, which during great clime. If to the smiles of surrounding nature part of the year sweeps across the group from are super-added the rare delights of congenial the eastward, renders the atmosphere exceedsociety, the wanderer and the exile might al-ingly salubrious: probably between the tromost be tempted to forget for a moment that pics no situation is more healthy. To an the wide world separates him from his home. English constitution the climate is undoubtedly But such an illusion must be of short dura- relaxing, and would probably, apart from all black broken rocks; the mouth of the cave looks like a natural well, half-filled with masses of stone, which conceal its depth; but as the rolling billow thunders towards the coast, a deafening noise is heard underneath, which increases in violence till it ends in a fierce loud hiss, as steam discharged from the valve of a steam-engine; and in a moment afterwards, a cloud of water and foam is driven high into the air. The geographical position of the Sandwich Islands, in a commercial point of view, is a valuable one;-in the North Pacific, they form an intermediate link between two distant continents, and thus facilitate an intercourse which is now considerable, and will probably become much more so hereafter. As a resort of the whalers, and of traders to the north-west coast of America, they are likewise important: at Honolulu alone about one hundred and thirty ships touched during last year, and at other places the number was very considerable. causes which contribute to increase its effect, the purifying influence of the gospel of our but which are not inseparable from it, exhaust | Lord, which has already made some progress the animal system more speedily than a cold- among them, correct the disordered state of er clime. The human constitution, like the society which now prevails, and avert the fate vine, seems periodically to require a season of which threatens this people! comparative repose, which these seats of peOf the Sandwich Islanders, as a race, I rennial summer do not furnish; early matu- think highly. They are intelligent, grave, inrity and premature decline characterize the quiring, and peculiarly inoffensive and docile. residents in these sunny, stormless regions. No one who has seen much of them, can, The winter here, a cooler, more irregular, without great injustice, refuse to admit that showery season than the summer, is called the minds of these natives are quite capable 'the rainy season,' but this epithet, as gene- of improvement and elevation: there are diffirally understood, is not quite appropriate; the culties connected with their instruction, but continued drenching rains that mark that pe- the ground-work of natural capability is inriod in Tahiti, we certainly did not see. The disputably there. Less volatile and playful rain which fell during our stay, (and the sea-than the Tahitians, their gravity might in son was considered rather unusually wet,) did not I believe exceed what generally falls in England during the corresponding season. Eight islands constitute this cluster, to which might be added several small ones lying near the others, which are not usually enumerated; the present population of the group, as determined by a census taken by the missionaries in the present year, is 110,000. In 1826, it was said to be about 155,000, so that if these numbers are correct, and the past is a specimen of the future, it will not require many more years to depopulate the islands altogether. some cases, be mistaken for moroseness; but no people could be more conciliating and ready to oblige than they generally are. Their curiosity is excited by every thing new, which is brought under their notice, and to prove their observation, we need only look at the improvements and conveniences which they have adopted or ingeniously imitated. In connexion with their docility, they some. times appear childish; but this apparent imbecility arises from their simplicity, and a consciousness of their ignorance and circumstantial inferiority to many whom they meet from the civilized world. In some of their actions, however, where no such considerations weigh,—as for instance, when they have to deal with lawless and abandoned foreigners, they prove that they neither fear nor venerate a white skin, merely as such. In the instance before us, the injury is evidently to be referred, not to a succession of open hostilities, but to a complication of causes, in increasing operation. Among these, disease and immoral habits are no doubt the principal; but there are others of no trifling [Speaking of the dress of the islanders, character. Association with foreigners has C. W. remarks,] the garland worn on the increased the wants of the chiefs, without fur- head by chief women, is a costly decoration, nishing any corresponding means of supplying it is said to be worth fifty or sixty dollars. It them, and in consequence of this, the poor is formed of yellow feathers, which one species people are more heavily burdened than for- of mountain bird furnishes in small numbers; merly. They are continually obliged to la- it is said that each bird does not supply more bour without receiving any remuneration, and than two or three small feathers; these are to furnish an indefinite amount of property in arranged like the swan's down neck-bands of form of taxes or tribute, in order to retain an Europe, and are glossy and silky in the exinch of ground; and this last evil is increased treme. Lord Byron procured two of these by every addition to the size of their families. costly garlands for some ladies of rank in A large number of the more enterprizing na-England, a few years since. In the remoter tives now avoid, at least for a time, the impo- parts of the islands, the females still retain sitions of their chiefs, by going as sailors in the whale ships; emigration too, is said to be eagerly sought by the poor, dissatisfied people, who are anxious to try a change, in the hope of amending their condition. Many of the above evils arise, as you will perceive, out of the moral degradation of the people, and I cannot for a moment doubt, that could they be really formed into a temperate Christian community, there would be no danger whatever of their national extinction, so long as they retain their independence. May their old garments, which happily are very much out of use among the more civilized. A piece of native cloth wound round the waist, and a loose, shapeless frock, either of print or native cloth made in imitation of print, extends from the neck to the ancles, with ample sleeves, and sometimes with a frill or collar. This dress almost entirely conceals the figure, and is a very rational and becoming garment, in which they look well. Their hair, which is usually strong and black, is allowed to grow long, and either tied in a knot on the top of the head, or regularly parted in front and set Pacific, constitutes probably the greatest ex off with combs, curls, &c. Shoes and stockings are scarcely ever seen. Of course there are many of both sexes in the principal seaports, who approximate very considerably towards the European style of dress and exhibit a great variety of costume; but these are exceptions to the general rule. The Sandwich Island female countenance is often coarse and unfeminine,-expressive; but not of those qualities which we most admire: in many, intelligence is conspicuous, and they have fine keen eyes. Their movements are particularly awkward and ungraceful. Like the Tahitians, both sexes are accustomed to sit cross legged, or still more commonly, squatted on their heels. The appearance of the native dwellings, gardens, &c., is indicative of much greater industry than anything seen at Tahiti; but as to civilization or comfort, I will say but little. The huts strikingly resemble in appearance old hay stacks, having sides as well as roof of thatch: they are, however, well adapted to the climate, being at once a protection from the heat and cold. One of the king's houses, and the native chapels which we have seen, are composed of this very homely material. The dwellings of the chiefs are more or less modelled upon those of the white residents. Some of them are really quite respectably furnished, and capable of containing the rare elements of comfort and convenience. The American missionaries, excepting in some places where stations have been but recently occupied, are uniformly provided with comfortable houses, built, as nearly as circumstances will admit, in home style and often of home materials; neat stone, or coral, or mudbrick walled cottages, shingled or roofed with zinc, plastered, and floored and ceiled; the wood-work in some cases imported from America, whereby the natives are furnished with models, and they have already, in several instances, availed themselves of the advantage. Idolatry, so far as the adoration of images is concerned, may be said to be nationally abolished in the Sandwich Islands. This fact does not imply that all have even nominally embraced the Christian religion; but a small part of the whole population belong to the church by any right of membership. At one station, not very long ago established, in a district where hundreds usually attend the services in the chapel, we were informed, I think, that the number of church members did not exceed fifteen or sixteen. The missionaries find it needful to be constantly on their guard against hypocritical profession. The influence of irreligious foreigners, who are scattered over nearly all the islands of the ternal hindrance to the moral improvement of the natives, which the missionaries have to encounter. They may be styled the missionaries of Satan, diligently engaged in extending his kingdom, and counteracting with the effi ciency of well-instructed agents, every attempt to diminish his power;-and unhappily these labourers are not a few. The Sandwich Island government has adopted certain regulations, which discountenance the settlement of seamen, who might choose to leave their vessels; but in one way or other, many contrive to take up their abode. Men arrested and confined in the fort at Honolulu are bought out perhaps by a dram-shop keeper, who can easily pay himself afterwards out of the wages of his purchase. Dollars will effect almost any thing with the chiefs: most of their sentences passed on criminals can be commuted for money, and that legally. I am not aware of any public measures which tend to discourage foreign traders from settling in the islands. They cannot buy land it is true, but they may rent it for a stated term of years. The steady determination of the government, not to sell an inch of ground, is a measure of excellent policy; and I hope neither king nor chiefs will ever be persuaded or frightened out of it. Whenever they sell the soil, they give away their strength, and this is already insufficient to govern their un ruly white subjects. The present is a critical time in the history of these islands, and many of the more reflective and sagacious natives are fully sensible of the fact. While the aboriginal inhabitants are rapidly on the decline in point of number, the foreigners are increasing, and acquiring an ascendency which threatens the downfall of the former as a nation. The government is inefficient, partly from the character of the king, who is very much influenced by the whites and half-castes, whose interest leads them to encourage his dissipated, thoughtless course of life,—and partly because his native simplicity and inexperience, are ill adapted to cope with designing adventurers who are ready to take every advantage. The remote locality of the islands in these seas, so inaccessible to the eye of philanthropy and the hand of unbiased justice, is greatly against them. Who is to represent them in civilized countries? Who is to defend their insulted rights in the respective islands,-to advise them what measures to pursue, and with an impartiality that levels all petty distinctions of nation or compexion, to stand forward in the cause of religion, equity, and humanity? If foreigners encroach upon the common prerogatives of nature, the laws of England and America are no laws in the Pacific; but if Pacific islanders infringe on the assumed or usurped privileges of the subject of a powerful nation, a sloop of war is despatched to inflict punishment-a punishment too often dispensing ruin, alike to the innocent and the guilty, by an act of bloody retribution. versed on this subject, appeared practically convinced of its utter inconsistency with the gospel of peace. Oaths are happily not in use in the Pacific, so that our Lord's command in this respect is not, so far as I am aware, judicially abrogated among the natives by presumptuous man. a highly creditable example; and certainly, as regards the personal character of many of the labourers, their evident exclusive desire to benefit the natives by imparting what they themselves value, their openness to receive the suggestions of others, whose ideas and views may differ, and their intellectual qualifications; The first missionaries who settled on the they form a highly estimable community. Sandwich Islands, arrived about fifteen years They are Congregationalists by profession, since; and though several families have left and probably their acknowledged principles the ground and returned home, subsequent re-recognize the lawfulness of war; but several inforcements have augmented the number to individuals among them, with whom we connearly thirty families, including physician, printer, bookbinder, &c. Some of the original pioneers have acquired an excellent knowledge of the native language, and by these it has been reduced to writing, and numerous translations made from the English into it. The New Testament is published in a neat 12mo. volume: the Bible itself has not yet In the public assemblies for worship, the been circulated; but many parts have been Sandwich Islanders generally behave with printed, and probably the entire Bible will ap- decent quietness, without the vigorous applipear before long. A vocabulary, a grammar, cations of sticks, or even the exhibition in a work on geography, the rudiments of arith- terrorem of those unhallowed appurtenances of metic, natural history, astronomy, mathema- a house for religious worship. Their habit of tics, with small works on several familiar subjects calculated to interest and instruct, have been issued; beside selections from Scripture in various forms, and several hymn The wives of the missionaries are in the books. There is also, as already noticed, a habit of meeting certain classes of the natives, semi-monthly newspaper, which is no doubt for the purpose of instructing them; some the medium of much information; and is cal-assemble the adult female members of the culated to amuse and incite to application congregation,-some teach the children, and many of the young people. Great interest is evinced in the new works as they appear, and they are bought up with eagerness. The time of the missionaries is devoted almost exclusively to their professional duties, so far as the unavoidable cares connected with recent domestic establishments will permit. The principle on which they are supported, leaves no inducement to engage in trade in order to maintain their families. The board at home supplies them with every thing they require through their secular agent,' a person whose office it is to provide for all their necessities on the spot. He is applied to for whatever they stand in need of, furnishes conveyances to and fro, transmits their letters, books, &c., and in fact acts the part of general agent to them all. But though all partake of the common stock, no narrow prescriptions or restrictions in regard to their several expenses and arrangements, reduce the families to one level: each one does as he sees best according to his habits and necessities, with the understanding that all extravagance will be studiously avoided. As an organized body, destined in a given field, and to prosecute a given object, I think the Americans in the Sandwich Islands afford VOL. VII.-No. 9.. coming in and going out during the services, is not yet broken off, although attempts have been made to correct it. one in Honolulu has charge of an infant school. An effort is now making to teach the people to manufacture cotton cloth, and some good common material has been already produced; which if attainable by all would constitute an important improvement on the present paper coverings, and make the islanders less dependent on a foreign supply. It appears to me that literary education alone, is not what this people most need: a system adapted to benefit them, ought to exert a more general influence. What they require at the present time for their moral and civil melioration, is a class of plain, honest, industrious settlers, who would furnish domestic models for their imitation: not men who merely come to make money by their exertions, but such as would come from a sense of duty to live among the people, and by leading them on towards improvement and civilization, through the silent but potent means of personal influence and example, endeavour to raise their present low condition. The mission families are of course now exerting an excellent influence in this way; but their number is small, their efforts are divided among a variety of objects, and they ordinarily belong to a class of society, somewhat more refined and intellectual than 42 |