CHAP. XI.

Journey through the Syssel of Snæfellsness continued-Volcanic Remains-Ingialldshvol-Ennit-Olafsvik-Bulandshöfili-Grundarfiord-Mode of Interment-Runic Epitaphs-Berserkia Lava and Cairn-StickesholmThorsness-Temple of Thor-Mode of Sacrificing, and Origin of Toasts-Helgafell-Thingvalla-Stone of Sacrifice-Ancient and Modern Hospitality of the Icelanders-Discovery of Greenland-Snoksdal.

I LEFT Stappen on the 26th, accompanied by Mr Hialltalin, and proceeded round the Yökul, across some of the highest lavas to be met with on the island. The stage might be about twenty-four miles, yet we had scarcely any thing but lava the whole day. At a short distance from Stappen we encountered two streams, the one of which has run above the other, and consists of a very compact lava, which assumes in some places a prismatic form, and displays on its surface a number of beautiful white specks, resembling the finest embroidery. On striking it with a hammer, it gives a sound like metal. To our left we had the Londrângar, two curious-looking natural obelisks, of a prodigious height, that of the highest being not less than 240 feet. They are of no great diameter, and stand almost close together. Numerous red conical hills line the coast around the Yökul. Several of them are of considerable magnitude, and must owe their origin to the breaking forth of fire from the subterraneous caverns, which, with great probability, are supposed to stretch from under the sea to the centre of the Yökul. What tends strongly to confirm this hypothesis, is the fact, that, notwithstanding the immense quantity

Y

of snow that must annually be melted by the heat of the sun, no river of any size is found to flow from the Yökul.

The peninsula here terminates in a point called Öndverdtness, on both sides of which are several fishing-places, which are very conveniently situated, as the sea abounds with great plenty of fish at this place.

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At seven in the evening we arrived at the farm of Ingialldshvol, which is occupied by Mr Scheving, the administrator of the royal domains in this part of the island. We did not find him at home, but his wife and two daughters received us in the most courteous manner, and instantly served up a dram of Jamaica rum and coffee. It was interesting to observe the degree of taste with which the houses, originally of Icelandic construction, had been improved; and the manners of the family, though strictly national, seemed not a little raised above the common standard. The church at this place is next, in point of size, to the edifices at Holum and Reykiavik. It is constructed of wood, but begins to fall into decay for want of a new coating of tar. The tûn is also very extensive, and entirely free from knolls, a thing rather uncommon in Iceland. Before retiring to rest, I had a visit from the clergyman, who informed me, that in the two parishes forming his charge are nearly 1000 souls, a disproportion which arises from the number of fishing hamlets, whose inhabitants depend entirely on the produce of the sea. They are in general very poor; and, from every account, it would appear, that, in point of moral character, they are far behind those who confine their attention to the management of their flocks. Being often prevented from going to sea by the prevalence of stormy weather, they contract a habit of idleness, in the train of which, drunkenness, impurity, and other vices, but too commonly follow. These evils have of late increased to such a degree in the Syssel of Snæfellsness, that those in power found themselves obliged to interfere, and call the offenders to account; but connivance, partiality, and the want of cordial and perse

Sometimes an immense number of whales enter the Breidaford. About three years ago, upwards of 1600 were driven on its southern shores.

vering co-operation, have rendered the measures abortive that were designed to effect a reformation of manners. Upwards of thirty Bibles, and a number of New Testaments, had been sold at this place.

On the 27th, I again set out from Ingialldshvol, in company with the two daughters of the administrator, the clergyman, and Mr Hialltalin, who would not leave me till we reached Olafsvik. The ladies, dressed in their Sunday habit, were lifted on their ponies, and galloped away, apparently as little intimidated as the ladies in the neighbourhood of the Don. Their saddles were surrounded by a strong rim behind, over which hung an elegant coverlet, exhibiting some fine specimens of embroidery. The road was at first rather boggy, but we soon gained the sand which forms the beach, and advanced with considerable speed till we reached the base of a huge projecting mountain called Ennit, when we were obliged to alight, and suffer our horses to find the road as well as they could, across the large stones that have been dislodged on the beach.

The pass at this place is justly considered to be one of the most dangerous in Iceland. The mountain is about 2500 feet in height, presenting the most rugged and frightful appearance imaginable in front, and seems to be extremely irregular in its formation. Its principal ingredient is a brown tuffa, alternating with different kinds of lava, sandstone, and clay. The sea having eat away a considerable part of its base, numerous holes and caverns present themselves; and its sides being perpendicular, there is no possibility of passing it except at low water, and even then the sea only recedes to a short distance; so that though the traveller keeps close to the water, he still runs great risk of being crushed to atoms by the stones falling from the mountain. Numbers have actually lost their lives here; and many of the natives prefer a long circuitous route along the south side of the peninsula to this short but difficult pass. It was not without impressions of terror that I ventured below the beetling cliffs, many of which appeared to be almost entirely disengaged from the mountain; and my anxiety