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to be guilty. The lawyers defended themselves very well. my opinion the lawyer should urge everything that can be pleaded from law, but not use the law for a purpose when it was evidently intended to mean otherwise. The Bishop is very vain. He said, for instance, 'I made a very long speech, and I think a very good one,' &c. . . . Nothing can exceed the respect with which he is looked upon.

Turning their backs on Windermere, the tourists followed what is now one of the most familiar roads in England to Keswick, where they passed the beautiful cottage of Lord William Gordon, 'hid in so retired a bay that it cannot be seen even from the top of lofty Skiddaw. Everything here is executed in so finished and appropriate a taste that it is almost the only place concerning which I could say, "If this were mine nothing should be altered." But, alas! even on the banks of Derwentwater, in 1807, there were drawbacks to enjoyment.

Mr. Pocklington, a gentleman from Yorkshire, is a person who has rendered himself odious to every traveller of taste by building houses, &c., on the lake. He turned the course of his waterfall, so that there might be a good gravel walk made to the top, and moreover has built amongst some trees a white wall with a door and two windows in it, which he calls a hermitage.

Shaking the dust off his feet in testimony against the utilitarian of Yorkshire, Lord John proceeded by Pooley Bridge to Ulleswater. After duly admiring that beautiful lake, the party drove through Carlisle, 'where there is nothing seemingly sufficient to excite curiosity,' and Langholm to Hawick. From Hawick, on the following day, they went to Selkirk, sleeping at Lord Somerville's.

Sunday, 16th.-Walter Scott, the minstrel of the nineteenth century, came to breakfast with us. He afterwards went with me to Melrose Abbey . . . one of the most beautiful ruins perhaps in the world.

...

Tuesday, 18th.—I went with Dr. Hunt to Walter Scott's house.1

1 In 1807 Sir W. Scott was living at Ashestiel. Abbotsford was not purchased till 1811.

We passed through Galashiels, a pleasant manufacturing town on the Tweed. Indeed, we never quitted the Tweed during our whole drive. At last we forded the river and came to his house just in time to eat a good breakfast. I then went shooting and missed two shots at grouse. I then had the pleasure of walking with Walter Scott through grounds which nature had adorned with a beauty which art cannot imitate. After passing a very pleasant evening we retired to bed betimes.

Wednesday, 19th.-My father and the Duchess came to breakfast at Mr. Scott's. Soon after breakfast we left his house to continue our journey.

Ascending the Tweed, the excursionists crossed into the Valley of the Clyde; and, passing Lanark, came to Hamilton, where they were the guests of the Duke of Hamilton; and, after spending the next few days in visiting factories at Peebles, and ironworks at Carron, and in admiring the streets of Glasgow, 'the best built and handsomest town I ever saw,' and the adjacent country, they came to Stirling. 'There is a big but thin hill, rising in the middle of the Carse of Stirling; on the top of it is Stirling Castle, and the houses creep up the hillside like chickens to get under the protection of the old hen.' Their route lay thence through Perth, Lochearnhead, Callander, and the Trossachs, which, though they had not yet been hallowed by 'The Lady of the Lake,' 'appeared before us in majestic glory. Never did I see so fine an assemblage of mountains-all forms, all sizes; one is covered with wood, another with heath. Loch Kitturin [sic] was soon before us, and instantly delighted us.'

Thence, after spending a few days with the Duke of Montrose at Buchanan, where 'His Grace gave us an excellent turtle soup, the best I ever tasted,' the party proceeded up Loch Long, over 'the dreadful hill of Glencroe, the most formidable pull for a carriage I ever saw,' to Inverary.

And now I first got a sight of the finest place I ever sawInverary. Reaching the top of a gentle ascent, we saw the whole view to advantage. The castle with four towers appeared in the midst of a small plain. The lake made a bay before it, and at the end of the bay appeared the town, which gave a complete

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idea of dependence on the castle. It is more like a handsome front of a great man's offices than a town. The Duke had a large party in the house, and we were handsomely received.

After passing five days most agreeably in this hospitable house, they bade adieu to Inverary, and drove past Loch Awe to Killin and Loch Tay—where Lord Breadalbane's new house at Taymouth contrasted unfavourably, in Lord John's opinion, with Inverary. Passing Dunkeld, 'we were soon delighted by seeing the Pass of Killiecrankie where Lord Dundee lost his life.'

From Killiecrankie the tourists drove to Blair Athol, and thence through a gloomy country to Kinrara, the Duchess of Bedford's house on the banks of the Spey. There they rested eight days, and thence proceeded to Inverness, 'our journey's end.'

Leaving Inverness, the party passed over the field of Culloden, and Lord John soon after began to inquire how far it was to a still more interesting field-the Heath of the Witches. Thence their road was through Fochabers (where they naturally stayed at Gordon Castle), Cullen, Banff, and Turriff, to Aberdeen. From Aberdeen they followed the coast to Stonehaven and Dundee, where they were the guests of Lord Kinnaird. A few days' easy travelling brought them to Edinburgh, 'the pride of Scotchmen and capital of their beautiful country.' There they, of course, visited Holyrood, going first to the gallery where the imaginary portraits of Scotch kings are placed, where the representative peers are chosen, and where two French gentlemen hear mass every Sunday. The portraits are shockingly painted, the peers are shamefully chosen, and the High Mass would shock the ears of those who cried No Popery.' Three days afterwards the party left Edinburgh, and, after passing a night with Lord Lauderdale at Dunbar, Lord John brought both tour and journal to a close at Ayton.

Steam has made the country through which Lord John thus travelled accessible to men with only moderate purses. In 1807, such a tour as that which has just been described was undertaken by, or possible for, only the few. From Ayton,

Lord John returned alone to Woodnesboro'; and perhaps it may be of some interest to record the cost of such a journey eighty years ago. Lord John paid £8, 19s. 6d. for his place in the mail from Ayton to London; £1, 145. 6d. for his place from London to Canterbury; 155. for a chaise from Canterbury to Woodnesboro'; 13s. 2d. to postboys; and £3, os. 6d. to guards and coachmen between Berwick and Woodnesboro'. Without counting the cost of food in a journey which occupied three days and three nights, or of the inevitable play in London, Lord John spent in actual travelling rather more than £15 on a journey which a first-class passenger could now accomplish for less than £4.

The journal-if it can be so called-for the next few months is so short that it may be quoted almost in its integrity.

After passing nearly three months in seeing the beautiful landscapes of Scotland, I left Ayton on October 19 in the mail for London. We passed through Newcastle, a populous place famous for coal and glass. But the place I admired most was Durham. Its situation upon the verge of a hill, the river which encircles it, and the grandeur of its cathedral, made me place it in the number of the most beautiful cities of England. We were at York at midnight, and, having come through Doncaster and Huntingdon, we arrived in London on Saturday morning after a journey of two days and three nights.

I got into the mail again on Sunday for Woodnesboro', which I left on December 28 for Woburn,

After this I passed a week at Ampthill, whilst my father was in town. We met again at Woburn on Saturday, January 25. Tavistock and William followed the day after.

The Duke of Gloucester, a man of no very brilliant talents, but of good sense and judgment, is the only man to save the country. He will probably marry the Princess Charlotte of Wales.1 In the Houses of Lords and Commons on the day of the meeting, Ministers cut a most despicable figure on the Copenhagen affair. Several Lords entered their protest against it. Ministers all told different stories about the sources of their

1 The Duke of Gloucester was the nephew of George III. Instead of marrying the Princess Charlotte, he married his cousin Princess Mary, and died without issue.

information.

Lord Mulgrave said they got it from Bonaparte. Whilst he was speaking Lord Eldon said to Lord Ellenborough that it was impossible to muzzle a fool.

I left Woburn on February 6, and, after passing two or three days in town, returned to Woodnesboro'. The day before I left town I went to the House of Lords for the first time, and heard an interesting debate on the Copenhagen expedition.1

On March 25 the frost was so hard as to freeze Mr. Smith's pond entirely. On the same day Clare and I went to shoot on the shore, and found it a very pleasant day. About the same time William again came to Canterbury as aide-de-camp to Sir George Ludlow, and I went every now and then to spend a day with him. It was about this time that Mr. Perceval first attempted to conquer France by depriving it of bark.2

I went to dine with Sir G. Ludlow on March 31. . . . They talked about Winsor's gas lights, which they said would only answer in lighthouses, printing houses, &c., and would not succeed in private houses. It is hydrogen gas, which, being communicated by pipes under Pall Mall, lights the street most beautifully... .

1 In August 1807 the Ministry sent an expedition to the Baltic to seize the Danish fleet at Copenhagen, though Denmark was then at peace with England. The proceeding was justified on the ground that Napoleon-as the Ministry believed-intended to compel the Court of Denmark to close the Sound, and to seize the Danish navies for the invasion of Great Britain and Ireland. Lord W. Russell saw his first service in this expedition. The propriety of the expedition has been often questioned, and perhaps the late Sir G. Lewis described it most accurately as 'an extreme exercise of the rights of war.'

2 The allusion is to the Orders in Council under which Mr. Perceval endeavoured to retaliate on Napoleon's Baltic decree by regulating British trade with the Continent. Under these orders the exportation of all goods to France was prohibited which were not carried from this country and had not paid an export duty here. But there were certain articles which the Minister decided that the Continent should have on no terms, and amongst others quinine, or Jesuit's bark, as it was called. Sydney Smith, writing as Peter Plymley, said, 'You cannot seriously suppose the people to be so degraded as to look to their safety from a man who proposes to subdue Europe by keeping it without Jesuit's bark.' Hence evidently Lord John's statement.

3 Gas was invented by Murdoch in 1792. The Lyceum was lit with it by Mr. Winsor in 1803, and it was adopted experimentally as a street illuminant in 1807, and generally in 1814, in London. Sir G. Ludlow's guests were not the only sceptics as to the practicability of its use. Sir H. Davy is said to have declared that you might as well talk of ventilating London with windmills, as of lighting it with gas,