COSTUME AND ORNAMENTS OF OFFICERS.

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courtiers, and in all that belongs to his own personal use there is an appearance of disregard of ornament. That which peculiarly distinguishes him is a kind of baton or sceptre made of jade, in such a shape that it can lie upon the hand and arm while sitting; the name is ju-í, signifying "as you please." Perhaps the origin of this name is derived from a use similar to that ascribed to the golden sceptre of the king of Persia, which assured the safety of the person who came into his presence unbidden when it was held out to him. The five-clawed dragon is figured upon the dress and whatever pertains to the emperor, and in certain things to members of his family. The monarchs of China formerly wore a sort of flat-topped crown, shaped somewhat like a Cantab's cap, and having a row of jewels pendent from each side. The summer bonnet of officers is made of finely woven bamboo or straw, covered with a red fringe, depending from the vertex; in winter, it is covered or trimmed with fur. A string of amber beads hanging over the embroidered robes, the button on the apex of the cap, the clumsy thick-soled official boots, and a number of pouches and fobs for containing chopsticks, fans, flint, steel, and tobacco, and occasionally a watch or two hanging from the girdle, constitute the principal points of difference between the official and plebeian costume. The common people are not forbidden the use of the boots and caps, but the rosary and girdle, and especially the official insignia, they may not wear. No company of men can appear more splendid than a large party of Chinese officers in their winter robes, made of different colored crapes, trimmed with rich furs, and brilliant with gay embroidery. In winter a silk spencer, lined with fur or quilted, is worn over the robe, and forms a handsome and warm garment. Lambskins are much used, and the downy coats of unyeaned lambs when well curried bear a high price; these, with the finer furs, and the pelage of hares, cats, rabbits, squirrels, &c., are worn by all ranks. Some years ago, a lad used to parade the streets of Canton, who presented an odd appearance in a long spencer made of a tiger's skin. The Chinese are fond of strong contrasts in the color of their garments, as yellow leggings showing underneath a light blue robe, itself set off by a purple spencer.

The dress of women is likewise liable to few fluctuations, and all ranks can be sure of a fashion lasting as long as a gown. The

garments of both sexes among the common people resemble each other, with a few distinctions in color and shape. The tunic or gown is open in front, buttoning around the neck and down the side, and reaching to the knee; the trousers among the lower orders are usually worn over the stockings, but when fully dressed are both covered by a petticoat reaching to the feet. Laboring women, whose feet are of the natural size, often wear neither stockings nor shoes, or go slipshod. Women seldom wear white, blue being their favorite color. Both sexes have a paucity of linen in their habiliments, and if not a shiftless, the Chinese certainly are a shirtless race; and even such undergarments as they have are not too often washed. External elegance poorly compensates for personal uncleanliness; and hydrophobia, or a dread of water, may be said to be a national ailment, especially in the northern provinces. If cleanliness be next to godliness, as an old writer has remarked, it will not surprise any one to learn that the Chinese, having none of the latter, have but little of its neighbor.

The headdress of married females is becoming and even elegant. The copious black hair is bound upon the head in an oval formed knot, which is secured in its place and shape by a broad pin placed lengthwise on it, and fastened by a shorter one thrust across and under the bow. The hair is drawn back from the forehead into the knot, and elevated a little in front by combing it over the finger; in order to make it lie sinooth, the locks are drawn through resinous shavings moistened in warm water, which also adds an additional gloss, at the cost, however, of serious injury to the hair. In front of the knot, a tube is often inserted, in which a sprig or bunch of flowers can be placed. The custom of wearing natural flowers in the hair is quite common in the southern provinces, especially when dressed for a visit. Mr. Stevens mentions that the animated appearance of the dense crowd which assembled on the bridge and banks of the river at Fuhchau when he passed, was still more enlivened by the flowers worn by the women. The women at Peking supply the want of natural by artificial flowers.

No caps, bonnets, hoods, or veils, are worn abroad; a light bamboo hat or an umbrella protects from the sun. Matrons wear an embroidered fillet on the forehead, an inch or more wide, pointed between the eyebrows, and covering the front of the hair,

STYLE AND PARTS OF FEMALE DRESS.

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though not concealing the baldness which often comes upon them even in middle age. This fillet is occasionally worked or adorned with pearls, a favorite ornament with the Chinese ladies. The women of Kiangsu wear a band of fur around the head, which relieves their colorless complexions. A substitute for bonnets is worn in Kiangsí, consisting of a flat piece of straw trimmed with a fringe of blue cloth. The hair of children is unbound, but girls more advanced allow the side locks to reach to the waist, and plait a tress down the neck; their coarse hair does not curl naturally, nor do they endeavor to form it into curls. False hair is worn by both sexes; and the men are particularly fond of eking out their queues to the fullest length.

The dress of gentlewomen, like that of their husbands, is regulated by sumptuary laws, but none of them prevent it being as splendid as rich silks, gay colors, and beautiful embroidery can make it. The neck of the robe is protected by a stiff band, and the sleeves are large and long, just the contrary of the com. mon style, which being short allows the free use and display of the well turned arm. The same embroidery allowed to the husband is worked upon the breast. No belt or girdle is seen, nor are stays used to compress the waist to its lasting injury. One of the prettiest parts of a Chinese lady's dress is the petticoat, which appears about a foot below the upper robe covering the feet. Each side of the skirt is plaited about six times, and in front and rear are two pieces of buckram to which they are attached; both the plaits and front pieces are stiffened with wire and lining. Embroidery is worked upon the two pieces, and upon the plaits within and without in such a way that as the wearer steps, the action of the feet alternately opens and shuts them on each side, disclosing the part or the whole of two dif ferent colored figures. The plaits are so contrived, that they are the same when seen in front or from behind, and the effect is more elegant when the colors are well contrasted. In order to produce this, the plaits close around the feet in just the contrary manner to the wide skirt of western ladies.

Ornaments are less worn by the Chinese than other Asiatic nations. The men suspend a string of fragrant beads from the lapel of the jacket with the tobacco-pouch; or occasionally wear seal-rings, finger-rings, and armlets of stone or glass. They are by law prohibited from carrying weapons of any sort.