There was much in the preliminary ceremonial that had reminded me of the customs alluded to in the Scriptures, and especially those recorded in the Book of Esther. It is the etiquette of the East, that the bride-elect shall not be seen by general visiters during the days appointed for the preparation. She is then entertained in the upper apartments with dancing and music but her time is chiefly occupied in visiting the bath, performing ablutions with rose-water, and other choice perfumes; painting the eyes with khol, and tinging the hands and feet with henna. This painting of the eyes gives the face a very odd appearance to a European; for the eye-brows are continued across the nose, and are generally made very black.

At asser, or about four P.M., I entered the Casser Debara, and was immediately conducted to the presence of "Her Highness," who was playing at dice with one of her ladies, in a small ante-room. She was attired most magnificently in a dark blue Cashmere dress, trimmed down the front à la militaire; the straps tastefully set with diamonds, arranged in groups of fruit and flowers, with three large, single diamonds in each; and a long tassel suspended, formed of pearls, richly enchased with gold, and tipped with emeralds. When a sunbeam fell upon her bosom, it lighted up all these jewels, and was a splendid sight. To correspond with those superb ornaments, the fustan, or "robe," was trimmed all round with gold braid, worked into a wreath of flowers and leaves, and thickly interspersed with pearls and emeralds. Her chemisette was of rich black lace; her trousers of French cambric, elaborately embroidered with birds, butterflies, and beautiful insects. The head-dress was a handkerchief of native manufacture, muslin miserably printed; while the diamonds glittering on the crown were of immense value, and the turban was pinned with a crescent and star, the symbol of Egypt,-in brilliants of the first water. A necklace of costly emeralds, set in gold, and fastened with tassels of pearls, adorned her neck; and around her waist was wound an exquisite Cashmere shawl, of great length, in the folds of which her watch and seals were deposited, with various amulets and charms in silver cases set with precious stones. On her little finger was displayed a magnificent diamond, more than half an inch in diameter.

As soon as I made my salaam, Her Highness motioned me to approach, and made me sit beside her on the divan,-a distinguished honour,—while she pursued her play. From the interest she manifested in the game, I am sure she was the winner, though amusement was the only object. I had on a pair of hair bracelets with simple gold clasps: they were neat and good, but not costly; valued by me as the gift of a friend. Those Her Highness no sooner saw than she greatly admired; and taking one from my wrist, she placed it on her own, and said, "Now there is one for you, and one for me." As a royal favourite, I had to bear my loss in respectful silence: I hoped to recover it when the whim was past; but I have never seen it since, save on its post of honour.

When tired of her game, the Princess summoned me to accompany her into the garden, and ordered two chairs to be carried thither. She moved, or rather waddled, forward with six attendants: one on either side held up her immense trousers, two bore her train, one fanned her, and another kept off the flies. The gardens are very beautiful, arranged after the European fashion in various devices, sheltered with graceful foliage and lofty evergreens. Before we returned to the palace, several hareems arrived: the ladies prostrated themselves before Her Highness even in the garden;

kissed her feet and the hem of her garments in the most abject manner; then arose slowly, fell back, and swelled her train. I wished also to follow her, as all the other ladies did; but this she would not allow; for, whenever I lingered a little behind, she insisted on my keeping by her side, calling me by my Turkish title, Ya Husta, her "teacher." This was probably done in great kindness, to give me consequence in the eyes of those high Mahomedan ladies; and it certainly had that effect, for they were all exceedingly polite and attentive.

While we were standing on the marble steps of the tank watching the gold and silver fish, a lady approached, splendidly dressed in green and gold, wearing the most elegantly embroidered fustan I have ever seen; so chaste and tasteful in its design. Her eyes were pencilled, and her hands were stained, in the usual manner; but she was young and beautiful, and really possessed a lovely figure. On coming near the Princess, she fell down before her, and kissed again and again the hem of her robe; but spoke not, nor even lifted up her eyes: she then arose slowly and gracefully, and, with folded hands and downcast eyes, stood before her like a marble statue, as motionless and as fair. Her Highness remained several minutes with her eyes fixed on the poor lady's face: I could scarcely restrain a smilet o see the forced humility of the one, and the licensed and unsparing gaze of the other. Her Highness walked on a few paces, then turning with dignity, told the lady, who stood unmoved, that she might follow her. I afterwards learned that this was the first public appearance of a recent bride.

It was amusing to see the number of attendants which were absolutely necessary to assist the Princess in ascending or descending a few steps, owing to the ample dimensions of various parts of her apparel. Two or three were really needed at each leg of her trousers; and those bent low to permit others the more effectually to render their support. Chairs were now placed on the pavement near the vestibule; and here the visiters and attendants arranged themselves before the Princess in the form of a crescent; while two or three elder ladies shared, with myself, the honour of being seated near her. She called for music, and immediately some native instruments were skilfully played by two of the ladies, who also accompanied the performance with a soft and pleasing voice. While we were sitting here, great preparations for the feast were being made in the saloon; and I anticipated the pleasure of seeing the principal ladies of Egypt at this grand repast. In this expectation I was disappointed; for Her Highness soon rose, and bade me follow her, with two of the elder ladies. She led us past the kitchen, where more than three hundred of her black slaves were busily employed in cooking and adjusting the dishes. The kitchen is very spacious, containing some fifty fires, and ovens of the native form. There was noise and clamour enough within; but the moment the person of their royal mistress was descried, it was as if an electric shock had passed through them all, and a pin might have been heard to drop, the silence was so instantaneous and profound. We proceeded through the garden of the large palace, into that connected with the private lodge or bower. Here Citté a prodigiously fat lady, was in waiting at the foot of the flight of steps to receive us. The appearance of Her Highness was the signal for the feast to commence. Candles, in immense silver chandeliers, were arranged on the floor, and several large dishes were served. The first was a lamb, roasted whole, and stuffed with rice and sweetmeats. Think of the dilemma of an English lady, with her plate on

her knee, without knife and fork, and compelled by the etiquette of the court, to eat all that was deposited upon it, which often consisted of the richest morsels! Dishes without number were set on the table, and removed with the utmost rapidity, then carried to the large party assembled in the dining-hall of the hareem; but each one was first presented to Her Highness, and tasted by her, before they were given to her guests. This Oriental custom of partaking of all the viands presented, is a severe tax on the comfort and decorum of the presiding genius; and I sympathized with the Princess sincerely; for, before the repast was ended, she seemed ready to pant for breath, and it was with difficulty she was raised from her cross-legged position on the low divan. After a little rest and respite, and the Turkish luxury of a few pipes, Her Highness became extremely facetious; but about ten P.M., she summoned her ladies, and resumed her usual stateliness of manner. We returned through the gardens to the grand entrance to the hareem; and here we were met by the full band of musicians, the dancing-girls, and all the Turkish ladies of rank, amounting to more than a hundred. They approached the Princess two and two, then, falling back, formed an avenue through which she passed to the throne-divan, at the right-hand corner of the upper part of the grand saloon. The dancers led the way, the musicians followed these, then the Princess and her personal attendants; the ladies of the court, again forming two and two, closed the procession.

I was again honoured with a seat beside Her Highness; and when sufficiently at leisure to survey the scene, I found that the guests were coming to pay their homage. The ladies seemed to observe all points of precedence most tenaciously; and great care was taken that each should approach according to her rank, or prescribed order. After making their salaams, they retired to the divan opposite the throne, some sitting on the elevated cushions, others on the low ones in front: those so distinguished were all ladies of the higher grade; others, less noble, were ranged on divans at the lower part of the room. I was struck with the expression of reverence and deep humility which these courtly dames assumed; for during the whole time Her Highness was present, they maintained their downcast looks, and never once presumed to raise their eyes to her, or appear to take any interest in the amusements of the evening.

The saloon was brilliantly lighted a large chandelier, blazing with wax tapers, hung from the beautifully-gilded ceiling; silver candlesticks, more than five feet high, in massive silver salvers, were placed down the middle of the room, standing only a few feet asunder. The candles were of coloured wax, enormous in size; and, when first lighted, would stand about nine feet from the floor. Below these were arranged a numerous set of branch-candelabras, holding from four to eight wax lights each; and still farther off, in the lower saloon, were a number of large square glass lanterns, with wax tapers. Thus, from one end to the other of this long suite of apartments, the lights were placed in a direct line, and in regular gradation. The band occupied the centre of the room, near the grand staircase, about fifty feet from the throne: it comprehended every native instrument in pairs, with two European fiddles to swell the harmony. The music was chiefly Turkish and Arabic.

The dancing-girls, six in number, then came forward, and went through the series of their various attitudes, which are whimsical and grotesque, rather than graceful; but never immodest. This species of amusement is perfectly distinct from the Arab dance, so justly deprecated by all who

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have seen the Almars: indeed, this Turkish-hareem dancing differs as much from the Arab, as the Arab itself does from the English. The performance lasted more than an hour, and the dancers then withdrew. Her Highness smoked, or supped," as they term it, some odoriferous herbs all the time. Each pipe which they presented to her was more splendid than the former, though all were magnificently enchased, and adorned with precious stones. The last had a costly amber mouth-piece, set with brilliants; the tassel was of purest pearls, and the covering of rich lilac satin, chequered with bullion. Coffee was also frequently presented to her; and I was the only individual whom she honoured, by ordering some to be served to me, -the condescension was. too great to be extended farther. We were now entertained with Turkish singing, which would not be unpleasing, did not its chief excellence seem to consist in vociferating at the very top of the voice it was a sort of musical screaming.

In a short time the scene changed again: the dancers re-appeared with their cymbals and bells, and from two to three hundred slaves entered, both black and white, each bearing a staff mounted with six wax tapers, and tastefully ornamented with a bouquet of flowers in the centre, according to the bridal fashion of the East. The noble ladies of the court arose, and, forming two and two, began their march towards the grand staircase. The procession was headed by the dancing-women, who resigned their lights to some of the principal visiters; the musicians came next in order; then the slaves, with their tapers and flowers; and, lastly, the court ;—all moving slowly as possible, and winding up the stairs.

I thought the gala had surely ended; for Her Highness and myself were left alone with her personal attendants. Opposite us stood the pipe-bearers, and the coffee-holders: one of the latter bore her beautiful silver tray, with its embroidered velvet coffee-cover, so richly adorned with pearls; their eyes always fixed upon their royal mistress, awaiting the slightest intimation of her pleasure. At the end of the divan, where we sat, stood the Treasurer, with a large purse in her girdle; and next to her the Secretary, bearing the Princess's seal of state.

The attendants now began to lay down the most superb red Cashmere shawls, describing a line which reached entirely from the bottom of the stairs to the feet of Her Highness; and over them was spread a rich cloth of gold, of exquisite workmanship. These arrangements were just completed, when suddenly a loud noise burst forth from the upper apartments : with the beat of drums, was mingled the clapping of hands, and the tu-la-tu, tu-la-tu of rejoicing. I was startled for a moment; but the cry of ElArrusa, El-Arrusa, revealed the secret that the brides were coming. All eyes were immediately directed towards the staircase, where the dancers re-appeared with light and gleeful movements, throwing the body into every attitude expressive of exuberant joy; black slaves followed, two and two, the full band in slow march, with black women playing the darebukkah, and great Arab drum; then more slaves, all well-dressed, and bearing lights. The Turkish noblesse now advanced, in their rich attire and sparkling gems, every head-dress beaming with the crescent and star, set with diamonds, and every hand carrying tapers and choicest flowers. The effect of this pageant was perfectly dazzling, as the procession wound slowly down the marble stairs: the multitude of lights, the magnificent robes, the jewels, and the gold with which every dress was embroidered, made the scene one blaze of radiance, and realized all our imaginings of the splendour of an Oriental court. The three brides came last, each one having a crowd

of attendants: some were scent-bearers, others sprinkled rose-water, or carried the massive silver trays, with the vessels appertaining to their respective offices; two waved their large ostrich-feather fans, and four held up the cumbrous dress, that it might not impede her very measured footsteps. I now saw that the Cashmere shawls, and cloth of gold, were spread to form a costly carpet for the bridal ladies; and the moment they set their feet upon it, the Treasurer threw over them a handful of gold. A general scramble ensued among the slaves; and as each hareem brought its own slaves, these golden showers were their portion: the more active would secure a rich gleaning; for at every step the ladies took towards the thronedivan, the sprinkling was repeated.

The most illustrious of the brides advanced first: she was sumptuously attired in the costume befitting her rank and circumstances, and consecrated by the usage of ages in the unchanging customs of the East. The trousers were of a delicate pink lutestring, exceedingly rich, and beautifully embroidered with gold and spangles; the fustan was puce-coloured velvet, elaborately worked with pearls; and her hands were covered with a pink handkerchief, ornamented like the trousers. Two small plumes of black ostrichfeathers were fixed behind the ears, most grotesque in their effect,—reminding me of the wings on the head of Mercury. She wore a superb tiara, in form like those exhibited on the statues of Juno; and above it glittered the crescent and star, in brilliants. To the head-dress was affixed a gauze veil, thickly wrought with gold; which, passing between the feathers, formed a train, and was borne by two slaves. The forehead was enamelled with gold, upon which was inscribed a sentence from the Koran, in large letters of pearls; the chin was gilded in like manner; and on either cheek was placed a heavy piece of wrought gold and pearls, but without letters. These " adornings" almost covered the face, and somewhat resembled the bosses on an ancient shield. To complete the strange array, an ornament made of gold wire, bright and fanciful, some five or six inches in circumference, was suspended from the ears, and reached the ground. On this lady's coming near the Princess, her women loosed their hold, and she fell prostrate at the royal feet; then, slowly raising herself on one knee, she kissed Her Highness's shoes, and the hem of her robe; but spoke not, nor even lifted up her eyes. Her Highness commanded her to be seated; when she was conducted to the opposite side of the room, and mounted high upon pillows, placed, for that occasion, in the corner, the seat of honour.

The other brides then advanced; their apparel and ornaments somewhat similar; and they performed their homage in like manner. When they were all seated, coffee was served by order of the Princess, of which they partook alone, and in silence. They never raised their eyes, suffered not a glance to escape, nor one muscle of the face to move; but sat like so many dressed and painted images. The dancing then re-commenced, with music and singing, much in the same manner as before; only that it became a sort of ballet-dance. I gazed with deep interest on this remarkable scene: it seemed like a theatrical display, of which I was the only spectator. When the dance was ended, the brides were permitted to withdraw,-in procession, as they entered the royal presence. This was about two A.M.

The guard of honour having returned, a number of large silver salvers the Eastern substitute for tables-were ordered to be laid in the ante-rooms contiguous to the grand saloon. Her Highness commanded her Secretary and one of her confidential friends to take me into her own eating-room; VOL. III.-FOURTH SERIES.

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