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To the Editor of the Monthly Magazine. SIR,

THE improvement recently made in the colour of the covers of your work, recals to my mind an idea which has sometimes occurred to me, of an improvement that may be effected in paper used for printing. It will be observable to any one making the comparison, that writing or printing of the same strength and body, on a fair white sheet of paper, is less legible, and the eye sooner fatigued in reading it, than on a sheet grown brown by age; and the reason of this is not difficult to discover. A greater quantity of light being reflected from the white paper, the pupil of the eye contracts so much, as to render vision less distinct, and the effort greater. This fact ought to lead us to the practice of tinging paper intended to be printed upon with a slight shade of colouring, which would at once render it more pleasing to the reader, and less subject to be discoloured by age or use.

To this hint permit me to add another. Where hot pressure is to be used, we may avail ourselves with great advantage of the difference of specific caloric that bodies possess; as in the specific caloric of sand and iron, for instance: taking equal bulks of each, raised to the same degree of temperature, the former will contain much more heat than the latter. If, then, we suppose two irons used for the common domestic purpose of smoothing linen, one of which is made of solid iron, and the other of a hollow shell of iron filled with sand, and the two are raised to the same temperature, that containing sand, owing to the difference of specific caloric and conducting power, will retain its heat much longer than the one of solid iron. Sand or stone heaters may also be applied to tea urns, and a variety of other domestic uses; besides their application to hot-pressing in several departments of our manufactures. There is no better means of drying specimens of plants collected by the botanist. than laying them between two sheets of paper, and covering the uppermost with hot sand.

B.

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indebted to this gentleman for the idea I suggest.

What Mr. Welch says of the practice of cutting the tops of young trees to make them pollards, I am well acquainted with, as well as another practice, which, coupled with this, may serve to account for the extraordinary circumstance recorded in your Magazine.

I well remember when a boy, a practice very general, aud not unfrequent now, for those who had the charge of a flock of ewes in the lambing season, to throw the dead and cast lambs into bushes or pollards, such as Mr. Welch describes, standing a considerable height from the ground, in order to prevent their being eaten by dogs. May it not, therefore, be probable that the fawn might have been thrown into one of these young pollards, of which the top was omitted to be again cut, a circumstance frequently seen; and by the head's resting in the crown of the pollard after the body had decayed, and the leading stem having grown over and completely covered the crown of the tree, account for the head being found in the body after the tree had grown to maturity?

Near Sittingbourne, Nov. 6, 1821.

W.

For the Monthly Magazine. PRESENT STATE of BAYHAM and

PENSHURST.

AYHAM, the seat of the Marquis

on the borders of Sussex, about six miles distance from Tunbridge Wells; and is an object of general attraction on account of the fine ruins of the abbey, a noble edifice of the gothic order of architecture. This abbey was built (as appears by an inscription on a large stone near the altar) in the reign of Richard I. A. D. 1190, by Ela de Sackville, of Buckhurst, for the White or Premonstratensian canons, a religious sect instituted at Prémontré, in France, about the year 1120, and introduced into England in 1146. From the extent of ground which the ruins occupy, this monastery must have been of the largest dimensions. The principal walls and a few arches only are now left standing, but the plan of the interior can be distinctly traced; particularly the chapel, refectory, confes sional, cloisters, &c. To the spectator the remains of this stupendous pile present an air of gloomy solemnity and grandeur; nor can the eye repose

on

on the long majestic nave, terminating in the distant altar, without the feelings being powerfully interested by the view. The trimmed box, and neat gravel walks, however, which decorate the space within, offend the taste, and certainly appear rather inconsistent with the dignity of a gothic ruin. As a relic of ancient architecture, although it cannot be compared with Tintern and Netley, it possesses many claims to the admiration of the common observer, as well as of the antiquary. This abbey was amongst the number of religious edifices abolished by Henry VIII. and having been dismantled of its ornaments, was abandoned to the destructive effects of time and neglect. The only attention which it now receives, (as the visitor is informed) is by an annual sum expended in the repair of its ruins! At a short distance, stand the remains of a large gateway, once surmounted by the papal cross, underneath whose spacious arch runs the road to the monastery. The mansion, which closely adjoins the ruins, and is reflected in a beautiful basin of water in front, is built in the gothic style, and thus preserves a strict uniformity with the abbey. This property was purchased by Lord Chief Justice Pratt, afterwards Earl Camden; and from him has descended to the present Marquis, to whom it gives the title of Viscount Bayham.

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PENSHURST PLACE.

This ancient and venerable mansion, the seat of the noble family of the Sidneys, stands within an extensive park at a few miles distance from Tunbridge Wells. It was built in the reign of William the Conqueror, and passed successively through the families of Penchester, Pulteney, Devereux and Fitzwalter, until it was forfeited to the crown in the reign of Edward VI. by the attainder of Sir Ralph Vane. The youthful monarch bestowed it as a mark of his peculiar favour and esteem on Sir William Sidney, (chamberlain and steward of the household of Henry VIII.) in the possession of whose descendants this splendid gift has ever since remained. On the death of Sir William Sidney, the estate descended to his son Sir Henry, the bosom friend of Edward VI. and the father of the gallant Sir Philip Sidney. This illustrious hero, whose untimely death*

* He was mortally wounded at the battle of Zutphen, in Guelderland, between the

was a source of so much grief to the court of Elizabeth, and to the whole British nation, was born here in the year 1554, on which memorable occasion an oak was planted in the park. From him the domain came into the possession of his brother, Sir Robert Sidney, afterwards created by James I. Lord Sidney, Vicount Lisle and Earl of Leicester. Penshurst was also the birth-place and residence of the celebrated Lady Dorothy Sidney, Countess of Sunderland; (the Sacharissa of Waller) and of the Earl of Leicester's son, the patriotic Algernon Sidney, who was beheaded in the reign of Charles II. on a charge of being concerned in the Rye House Plot. The house is extensive and commodious, and is a specimen of the union of the Saxon and gothic orders of architecture. It bears evident marks of antiquity, and some of its outer courts are in ruins; but the whole edifice has, within the last few years, undergone a thorough repair, and received several material improvements, under the inspection of its present proprietor, Sir John Shelley Sidney, bart. The interior is spacious and magnificent, though the splendour of its decorations is now rather faded from the effects of time. Many of the rooms are ornamented with fine pictures and family portraits, by Titian, Guido, Corregio, Teniers, Holbein, Vandyke, Hemskirk, Janssen, Lely, Luders and Kneller. those particularly worthy of observation, are an elegant picture of Charles I. on horseback, by Vandyke, and portraits of the Earls of Leicester, Sir Philip Sidney, the Countesses of Sunderland and Pembroke, and Algernon Sidney. Some fine specimens of ancient tapestry are also to be seen in some of the apartments. The park is thickly studded with trees, among which we now in vain look for the oak planted to commemorate the birth of Sir Philip Sidney. The gardens are spacious and beautiful, and extend from the house to the banks of the Medway.

Among

The other places in the vicinity of the Wells, which merit the attention of the visitor, are Eridge Castle and Park, the noble domain of the Earl of Abergavenny; Knowle, the seat of the

Flemish and British, September 22, 1586. His noble act of self-forbearance in the hour of intense suffering, and his exemplary humanity to the dying soldier, will ever endear his memory to posterity. Duchess

Duchess of Dorset; Bounds, Somerhill, and the ruins of Mayfield palace. While at Pensl urst, I was led to compose the following lines on hearing

its

CHURCH CLOCK.

Hark! slowly strikes the solemn midnight bell,

And sudden startles with its awful knell ;
Again it vibrates on the list'ning ear,
And breathes around an anxious, pensive
fear:

At every fleeting hour its varying chime
Loudly proclaims the silent lapse of time;
The deepen'd sounds, still floating on the
wind,

Infuse a fearful horror o'er the mind.

L.

For the Monthly Magazine. EXCURSION through NORTH WALES in 1819.

Continued from No. 361, p. 360.

AFTER we left the castle we strolled through the town, which is uncommonly mean, dirty and disagreeable. It was once, we understand, the principal town in the county, and carried on no despicable trade with Ireland: it cannot certainly now boast of any such distinction, for it has dwindled into an insignificant village scarcely containing 500 inhabitants. Remounting our horses, we quitted Harlech without regret, and soon found ourselves traversing a secluded tract, on our way to the Vale of Festiniog, in which the beautiful little inn of Tan-yBwlch is secludingly situated. We reached it before 3 o'clock, and fortunately found apartments unoccupied, which we engaged for a day or two, that we might leisurely take our fill of the beautiful scenery in the neighbourhood. Having dined and rested ourselves, we walked into the vale so celebrated for its beauty, and for the health and longevity of its simple and retired inhabitants. It was a lovely afternoon when we strolled arm in arm down this beautiful valley, and the rich woods with which its boundaries are clothed, glowed brightly in the beams of the glorious sun. The elegant description of the valley of the kingdom of Amhara, by Dr. Johnson, is particularly applicable to that of Festiniog; for all the blessings of nature seem to be concentrated within its limits, and all the evils extracted and excluded. With scarcely a sigh of regret, and with feelings far different from those of the discontented and querulous Rasselas, we could there pass the remainder of

our days, pitying those whom "fate had secluded from this seat of tranquillity, as the sport of chance and the slaves of misery.'

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Here, in this sweet sequester'd vale,
The philosophic man might find
A calm a scene-a solitude,

To solace his reflective mind.
Here might his days of study pass

As softly-innocently too,

As from the polished mirror melts

The breath's warm evanescent dew. Here many a lesson might be glean'd To bend the lofty port of pride; Here tacit monitors might teach

The waves of passion to subside. And, oh! while low at Nature's shrine. The incense of man's praise is given, Its grateful purity might make

His soul a denizen of Heaven! "With the woman one loves,-the friend of one's heart, and a good study of books," writes the accomplished Lord Lyttleton to his friend, Mr. Bower,

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one might pass an age in this vale, and think it a day. If you have a mind to live long and renew your youth, come with Mrs..Bower, and settle at Festiniog. Not long ago there died in this neighbourhood an honest Welsh farmer, who was 105 years of age. By his first wife he had thirty children, ten by his second, and four by his third: his youngest son was eighty-one years younger than his eldest, and eight hundred persons descended from him followed his body to the grave!" Mr. Bingley relates another instance of age and fecundity in this vale, which though far short of the above, in point of numbers, is sufficiently great to prove the salubrity of the place. "Jane Price, who died in the year 1694, had at the time of her death, twelve children, forty-seven grand-children, and thirteen great grandchildren." She must have been a very profitable vessel!

We were so much delighted with our ramble, that we did not return to the inn till a late hour, and before we retired to rest, we arranged a short excursion among the hills for the morrow. But the ensuing morning was cloudy and sunless, the heavens were overspread with gloom, and although no rain fell, we had every reason to anticipate wet. However, as the wind was high, and there was no likelihood of the rain falling immediately, we or dered the horses and determined to ride a few miles up the country, and following the road which winds over the southern extremity of the vale, we soon arrived at two waterfalls of the river Cynfael.

Cynfael. They could scarcely be termed cataracts, as the long succession of dry weather had rendered their streams extremely scanty. However, they were in the road to the principal object of our ride, viz. a large insulated columna rock, situated in the bed of the river, the waters of which spumea circum sara fremunt. This rock is called Pulpit Hugh Llwyd, from a supposed sorcerer of that name, who according to tradition was wont to deliver his nocturnal incantations from this place, -a place, observes Mr. Pennant, fit indeed as the pit of Acheron. In Hugh's time it was assiduously shunned after nightfall by the peasant, who preferred a walk of some miles in extent, to the chance of encountering the magician in his rostrum. The wizard's

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Hugh Llwyd, by the way, was no insignificant person in his day. He possessed abilities far above his situation in life, and to a mind naturally vigorous and enthusiastic, he added, a bold, and enterprising spirit. Hence, and from his knowledge so superior to that of the simple beings among whom he dwelt, he was considered a very extraordinary person. Besides, Hugh had travelled, had seen a good deal of the world, and consequently possessed many advantages over his secluded and stationary countrymen.

And he would speak of many a wondrous sight

Seen in great cities, temples, tower and spire,

And winding streets at night-fall blazing bright,

With many a star-like lamp of glimmering fire.

The grey hair'd men with deep attention heard,

Viewing the speaker with a solemn face, While round their feet the playful children stirr'd,

And near their parents took their silent place, Listening with looks where wonder

breath'd a glowing grace. The outline of Hugh's life is still preserved amongst the traditionary annals of the remote district where he flourished; and although nearly two centuries have elapsed since he ruled

the stubborn hearts of the mountaineers, he is yet remembered by the natives of Festiniog, as a wise and an awful man, and the grey-headed peasant, as he speaks of him, will shake his head, and murmur a deprecation of his sinful deeds. Hugh, it seems, was a restless young man. The narrow boundaries of his native glen were too circumscribed for his ardent and adventurous spirit. He went to London, and enlisted into the parliamentary army, and was under Ġeneral Monk at the Restoration of Charles the Second. After having been from home many years, and at length growing old, he returned to his native vale. ~ Arriving at his house one fine summer's eveuing, he saw his sister's family, seated on an old stone bench which he had in his younger days placed by the side of the house. He asked them in English, if they would give him a night's lodging; but none of them understood - a word of that language. They, howdivided their humble fare with him, ever, conjecturing what he wanted, and conducted him to the best bed in the cottage. They knew not that it was Hugh Llwyd who thus solicited this charity, till he disclosed himself; and he was then recognised with the utmost joy. He had acquired a small fortune during his wanderings, which he now shared with his happy relatives; and it was subsequent to this period that he practised those arts which have perpetuated his memory. We reached our quarters about 2 o'clock, and were confined to the house the remainder of the day, by the rain which fell in torrents. There was fortunately a tolerable harper at the inn, who afforded us very agreeable entertainment by bis performance. During the summer, there is scarcely an inn of any respectability in North Wales, that has not a harper to amuse the guests. The performance of these wandering minstrels is not confined to the music of Wales; they play the most admired airs of the tions of their own. old masters, and sometimes with variaSome of them

play with much taste and feeling, and the harper at Tan-y-Bwlch, although by no means a first-rate strolling player, was by no means a despicable one.

The following morning was fixed for our return to Dolgelley, and it was with no little delight that we perceived the early sun-beams peering in at our chamber window, unobscured by cloud or shadow. We breakfasted betimes,

and

and before 8 o'clock were on our way to Dolgelley, which is more than twenty miles from Tan-y-Bwlch. It was our intention of taking three very fine waterfalls, the waterfalls, as they are called, par excellence; on our route, and in about two hours we arrived at the first, which is called Rhaidr-yMowddach, or the Torrent of the Mowthach. This noble river, here contracted into a small but rapid stream, rushes down a precipice nearly 100 feet high, into a deep, dark, stony basin beneath, and is thrice broken in its descent by projecting ledges of rock. The spot where it is situated, is surrounded by trees, and not visible from the road, although the roar of its waters may be heard at a great distance. The next fall is called Pistyll-y-cain, or the Spout of the (river) Cain, and is by far the highest cataract. The water here fails down a rock nearly 200 feet in height, whose horizontal strata run in almost regular steps, throughout the entire breadth of its surface, forming a complete muial front, and marring, by their regularity, the picturesque effect which would otherwise be produced. This cataract is not by any means so beautiful as the other, but the scenery around is very fine. Three miles further on we reached the other fall, called Rhaidr du, or the Black Toirent. Here the water dashes with a tremendous and appalling roar down two rocks, each nearly 60 feet high, into a basin hollowed out by the action of the water in the solid stone below, through which it feams for a few yards and is then lost among the surrounding woods, till it joins the Mowthachi, about a mile towards the west. This is indeed a magnificent cataract, and the rain which fell the preceding day, had greatly augmented the volume of its waters, which now "thundered down the steep" with resistless impetuosity.

The roar of waters! from the head-long height

Velino cleaves the wave-worn precipice; The fall of waters! rapid as the light, The flashing mass foams shaking the abyss;

The hell of waters! where they howl and biss,

And boil in endless torture, while the sweat

Of their great agony, wrung out from this Their Phlegethor, curls round the rocks of

jet

That gird the gulf around in pitiless horror set, MONTHLY MAG. No. 362.

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And mounts in spray the skies, and thence again

Returns in an unceasing shower, which sound,

With its unemptied cloud of gentle rain, Is an eternal April to the ground, Making it all one emerald.

The scenery here is highly beautiful and romantic; on the side of the fall are black perpendicular rocks (from which it derives its name) enlivened only by the mountain ash, or a patch or two of pure white lichen. But this sterility is merely confined to their surface; their sides and summits are clothed with a rich mantle of alpine underwood, imbibing perpetual moisture and fertility from the spray of the torrent.

We arrived at Dolgelley before two o'clock, and found rather more bustle in the town than when we last were there. The assizes, we learnt, were to commence the next day, and there was a joyful appearance of life and activity that imparted a cheerfulness to every thing about us. The Lion was crowded, every room was occupied, and had we not directed that our apartments might be reserved for us, we should have found some difficulty in obtaining lodgings. We were informed that the assizes would be exceedingly gay, and well attended, and that there would be no mean display of beauty and elegance at the balls; and, what pleased us more than any thing else, we were given to understand that only one criminal was found in the whole county deserving Now that cur 66 of a trial. dancing days are over," we can scarcely tolerate what are termed assize-balls. In many manufacturing districts, where the population is extensive, and where crime consequently abounds, scarcely a session passes without the severe punishment of some unfortunate malefactor; and can any thing then be so unfeelingly incongruous as to spend the time, fraught with so much misery to many, in mirth and gladness? Nothing, surely, can display so much levity and heartless cruelty, as to pass away in gaiety and pleasure the hours which are spent by the unhappy convict in groans and anguish, in 'weeping and gnashing of teeth.' But this charge of unworthy selfishness is by no means applicable to the natives of Merionethshire, and we may say, of North Wales generally. There is scarcely ever a capital crime tried there; and there have been but two men executed at Dolgelley during

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