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tiers of superior rank, were dressed in red velvet gowns, like that worn by the mayhoon; the caps of the princes and chobwas, varying according to their rank; which is further denoted by the gold chains they wear. The inferior courtiers' dress and caps were made of satin trimmed with narrow gold lace, but in form the same as the viceroy's. In the avenue immediately fronting the throne, was placed, first, the stands with the letters and presents in a row, on a line with that of the princes; next the chests of treasure, then the coining machinery. The carriage was drawn up close to the outside of the arcade, about forty feet to the eastward of the throne, and within view of his majesty. In the rear of the treasure chests, and immediately in front of the throne, at the distance of about sixty feet from it, I and my suite were seated. About ten feet in front of me, to the left, was the mayhoon, or viceroy; and in a line with me to the left the rayhoon of Rangoon. In front, a little to the left also, were two sandogans; and in the rear, to the right, the shabunder Jhansey. After I had been seated about twenty minutes, a man, dressed in white, came into the enclosed place within the throne from the rear, as if to arrange the cushions on it, and immediately after he had retired, his majesty entered, and seated himself on the throne. He was dressed in white muslin with a gold border, and had on a crown shaped something like a mitre, about fifteen inches in height, but how ornamented I was too distant to observe. In his hand he had a small chowrie, made of peacocks' quills, with which he fanned away the flies; no one remained in the pulpit with him. He appeared rather lusty, his countenance open, and complexion rather fairer than the Burmhans in general, with a thin grey beard, and altogether like a Chinese of the southern part of the empire. When seated, he asked in a clear and audible voice, which was the Resident? Then, who was the gentle man next me? He then asked, whether my epaulets and cockade were insignia of my rank? Who were the persons attending in my suite? What was in the chests? What the use of the large blocks of timber, &c.? He was then pleased to say, that he understood I was a sensible and polite gentleman; upon which I placed my hand on my breast, and bowed my head. He immediately said "Ah! that is the manner in which the

Europeans salute their sovereigns. The hand placed on the breast means that their respect flows from the heart." To which the viceroy replied in the affirmative. The sandogan, first prostrating himself three times, then read from a taar leaf, in a singing tone, an account of the presents. After sitting about twenty minutes, the king, addressing himself to the viceroy, said, "The weather is very warm, I must retire, take care of him." He then rose from the throne, and retired to his palace in the rear. He was answered sometimes by Mr. Moncourtuse, sometimes by the viceroy, and sometimes by the rayhoon. Ater he had retired, every one arranged their legs at their ease; the eyes of the court were turned on us, and restraint was banished. The princes, about five minutes afterwards, got up and retired without ceremony; they were all bare-footed. The gra cious reception I had met with from his majesty, seemed to have diffused a general satisfaction throughout the court; and after a quarter of an hour had elapsed, a number of pages, in satin gowns and caps, brought in Burmhan trays of sweetmeats. These trays were of wood, painted red, and gilt; they were about eighteen inches in height, the side supporters little turned balustrades, united at bottom by a circular rim. The sweat meats were piled up in little china saucers, consisting of country-made confectionary, covered with conical covers of wicker-work, lacquered red and gilt. Twelve of these trays were placed before me and Mr. Burnett, one of them immediately opposite, filled with china confectionary, considered a rarity here. Next, every one of my attendants had a tray placed before him, then the chobwas, the whoonghees, &c., each a tray served to them in turn, according to their rank, until the whole court was served. They pressed me to eat, and to please them I tasted of almost every dish on the trays before me. Tea was then made and presented, the rayhoon and shabunder Jhansey serving us. Then trays of pawn leaf, with its appendages, were served; towards the conclusion, the courtiers pocketed the remainder of the sweat meats. &c. and we were told we might retire.

About four o'clock in the evening his majesty sent for Mr. Moncourtuse and Mr. Rowland, my private interpreter, in order, as he was pleased to say, that they might hear from himself

his

his sentiments, so that I might not suppose them mere complimentary reports from his courtiers. He said, he thought I was a prudeut sensible man, and asked what was my name. Mr. Moncourtuse defined the distinction between our christian and surnames. He then enquired what was my mili tary rank, and whether I understood the art of war; then the nature of my appointment; which Mr. Moncourtuse defined attorney, or agent for the Eng lish East India Company's government in his dominions: with all which he expressed himself much satisfied. He then asked if I was pleased with my reception, which was answered in the affirmative. He then said, I have or dered Jhansey to prepare boats, and to attend the Resident to see my pagoda whenever he chooses; let him go be fore the chambers or vaults are closed, that he may examine my mode of strengthening the chambers with lead. He then went to take possession of the carriage, attended by eight bramins, his queens, the royal family, and courtiers. After the prayers of consecra tion were over, he opened the door with his own hand, the steps were taken down, and he got in, and ex pressed himself highly satisfied with its elegance; strictly enjoining his queens not to damage it. He pointed out an error in making the steps fold into the carriage, they ought to have been outside; but he observed, “It is my own fault for not having it so represented in the drawing I sent to the Governor-General." Mr. Moncourtuse represented to him that it was the mode used for the steps of the carriages of all European sovereigns; and gave as a reason what I had previously told him, that if they were fixtures on the outside they would be liable to be soiled by the mud thrown forward by the hind wheels in travelling. He said it was very right, the Europeans best under stood these matters. He then examined the dies and coins; and said that the characters on the copper were very right, but that those on the rupees were obsolete. The viceroy told him that I had promised to get the dies altered in any manner he pleased, with which he appeared highly gratified. He then expressed a wish to see the machinery; and the viceroy told him I had been so kind as to promise to shew them the mode of fixing and using the machinery. "Yes," says he, the Resident will do that in a few days

which we should be puzzling about for months. As soon as the festival is over, and we return to Amarapoorah, we will get him to instruct us." He then inquired if I knew the country they called Vizalley, and whether it belonged to the English? Mr. Moncourt use did not know how to satisfy him on these points. He then said, "I sent him some of the coins of the country, and he shewed my rayhoon a map of it; request of him to send me that chart, and the book that has a drawing of the air-balloon." Mr. Moncourtuse then retired. As he was leaving the palace the king's favourite grandson, the eldest son of the heirapparent, a boy about eleven years of age, sent for him, and told him he was very happy to find his majesty so well satisfied; requested he would take charge of some refreshment for me, (two legs of beef, four pieces of pork, and a jar of ghee,) to assure me of his esteem, and that I had only to send to him for any thing I might want, and if it was to be had in his grandfather's dominions he would procure it for me. Two days before he had requested to see a book of natural history, with painted figures, which I immediately sent to him; when he returned the book he sent me some provisions, with a polite message of thanks.

ANECDOTE OF THE SULTAN.

February 11. Employed in planning a balloon for his majesty; about noon the rayhoon came and pressed me to send something curious to the king's grandson; I therefore sent, under his charge, with my interpreter Mr. Rowland and a chubdar, a volume of curious English birds painted by Donovan in a very superior style, a set of white flint cut-glasses for his betel-box, a white flint cut-glass smelling-bottle filled with essence, a bottle of ottah of roses, two boxes of Tunbridge toy, two small boxes of Dutch toys, some gilt writing-paper, with black lead pencils and a sportman's knife. The rayhoon also requested I would make his majesty a present of a round hat with a white turban, and black and red fea thers, which I used as an undress-hat; I therefore sent it also. When Mr. Rowland arrived at the palace, he was admitted into the garden with the presents, and found the young prince in the palace-garden with his uncle the prince of Prone. He was highly delighted with the presents, particularly the glass ware. He carried the whole

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to his grandfather, who was seated at some distance, with only a red silk lungee round his loins, and a white muslin fillet round his head. When my hat was presented to his majesty he put it on his head, and kept it on for some time. He said, "this is a high proof of the Resident's regard for me, lie has given me the hat he has worn himself; he could not do more for his own Sovereign." He then took it off, and gave it to his grandson to have it. laid by carefully: the boy said, “I will wear this when I go in the war-boats." "No, no," said the king, "it is not for you."

THE NEW PALACE.

February 12. At seven A. M. the rayhoon came to my bungalow, and informed me that the mayhoon had sent two war-boats, to convey me and my suite to the main, to visit the new pagoda.

The rayhoon requested I would pull off my hat in passing the looto, as the whoonghees were there, a compliment which I begged leave to decline paying, as being inconsistent with my public situation. When we came abreast of the looto, (an open shed with a raised platform about four feet from the ground, and thatched), the rayhoon desired us to stop a little. The second whoonghee who is also generalissimo of his majesty's forces, was sitting in the looto in his undress. He sent for Mr. Moncourtuse and desired him to tell me, he hoped I would excuse a little delay, as he had sent to know his majesty's pleasure as to what he wished I should be shewn: he added that I was a kicky man, that my conduct had given such satisfaction to every one, that his majesty regarded me as one of his own children. During this conversation, I was standing about fifteen yards from the looto, remarking the royal boats near the bank; in a few minutes the rayhoon joined me, and desired I would return to the steps as cending to the pagoda from the river front. These steps consist of three flights, about thirty feet broad at the lowest step, and twenty at the highest; of ordinary brickwork masonry, with a low parapet wall on each side, and led to the first terrace about fifteen feet above the ordinary level of the river in the rains. The revêtement of the riverface of this terrace was of stones wrought to an equal surface on their exterior superfices: but rough and irregular on their interior, laid in comMONTHLY MAG. No. 363.

mon mortar made of stone pounded, or lime and sand. At the lowest step we were requested to take off our shoes, which we immediately did: all our servants were allowed to attend us, and I was allowed to take my Hindoostänee punkah. We were not at any time desired to take off our hats. Immediately within the verge of the first terrace, on either side of the steps, are erecting two colossal figures of lions, or rather sphinxes, in positions rather couchant than rampant. They are of brick masonry, and seated on pedestals of the same materials; the surface of the pedestals are about two cubits above the level of the terrace, and the height of the figures from the surface of the table to the crown of their heads is fiftyeight cubits; making altogether sixty Burmhan cubits of nineteen inches each, or ninety-five English feet. The body and limbs are of proportionate magnitude, according to the Burmhan ideas of sculpture; the eyes and teeth are of alabaster, the eye-ball, which we had an opportunity of measuring, was thirteen feet in circumference. The northermost figure is finished to the plastering and ornamental parts, the sockets for the eye-balls are left vacant, and to place the eye-balls in them will require some exertions of mechanical ingenuity, which I should like to see. There are six terraces rising above each other, their parapet walls equidistant and revêtements of the faces of each of good brick masonry, with stone spouts ornamented with sculptured alligators' heads, to carry off the water. Above these is a seventh terrace, on which is the plinth of the pagoda, and the eighth terrace is formed by the upper surface of the plinth. The seven lower terraces have not been wholly formed by art, but advantage taken of a little mount, the sides of which have been cut down, and then reveted with masonry; the levels of the terraces so far, being left of the common soil, a sandy loam mixed with shingly stones. Upon the seventh terrace rises the exposed part of the base or plinth of the intended structure; the foundation of which is sunk of solid masonry still lower; how much I have not been able to ascertain. Within the plinth a hollow chamber is left, forming a quadrangle whose extent is sixty-one feet six inches, its depth eleven feet, and the walls being twelve feet eleven inches thick, make the exterior surface a square of eighty-seven feet four in

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ches. The interior of this chamber is plastered with white chunam, and decorated with painted borders and pannelled compartments, with trees and flower-pots in them. There are also rows of columns twenty-nine inches square, and pilasters, to support the leaden beams and terraces with which the whole is to be covered when the dedicated treasures are deposited there; with a number of quadrangular compartments, large and small, from ten feet to four feet five inches square to contain them; the smaller ones being lined with plates of lead three-fourths of an inch thick. The innermost quadrangles are intended for the preservation of the treasures dedicated by his majesty, while the span around them is devoted to the oblations of his courtiers. Opposite each of the smaller compartments, whose depth is equal to that of the larger ones, and which appeared like so many wells, was placed on small Bengal carpets, little hollow temples, three feet square, with pyramidal roofs ornamented in the Burhan style; the interior frame being of painted wood covered with thin plates of silver, alloyed to about fifty per cent. standard; in height from the base to the pinnacle seven feet, the eves ornamented with strings of red coral about six beads in each, terminated with heart-shaped pieces of common window glass. Round the solid part of the building and upon the terrace, were arranged piles of leaden beams, about five inches square, and of sufficient length to cover the respective chambers, with plates of lead of the same length fourteen inches broad, and three-fourths of an inch thick for the coverings: and besides these, a number of slates of a schistons granite were arranged in readiness to cover the whole. We were told that there was another set of chambers of the same dimensions and structure, charged with treasure below these: how true this is I cannot pretend to determine. The invention of lining the chambers with lead for the preservation of the treasures, is an honour claimed by his present majesty, who has great skill in these matters. That the design has a divine sanction we had ocular demonstration, three piles of leaden plates gilt with gold-leaf being shewn us, which had been brought and arranged where we saw them at night by angels. Our conductors assured us that the building was surrounded at night by

watchful guards, so that no human agents could have transported such weighty materials unobserved: it is, therefore, justly considered and believed as a miracle of divine favour. All this I was particularly desired to note down in my pocket book, which I did on the spot, and added to it an observation of my own, that a good deal of melted wax, such as is used by the Burmhans for candles, had been dropt on the slabs; I, therefore, suppose the night must have been dark, and that the angels worked by candle-light. From the level of this terrace, a conical spire of solid masonry is intended to be erected, the weight of which I am afraid will prove too great for the leaden beams; but it would be a dangerous piece of impertinence for a stranger to offer any advice on these sacred matters, otherwise I could easily secure the safety of the superstructure, by shewing them how to turn arches over the hollow chambers. From the summit of this terrace is commanded a very extensive and pleasant view of the meanderings of the Erawuddy, the valley it winds through, and the adjacent mountains; but my attention was too much occupied by the building, and the crowds of both sexes that flocked to gaze at us, to examine distant objects. Centrically, in front of the first terrace, is erected a shade of bamboos with an avenue in the centre, decorated with a double arcade of bamboo openwork, ornamented with flowers, for his majesty to perform his devotions in, and pass through when he goes to view the progress of the building. Round the summit of the rubbish also, are placed little open moveable shades for him to sit in. To the right of the covered avenue is a small temporary theatre, of bamboo and thatch, where the dancers, tumblers, and musicians, exhibit on festival days before his majesty and the royal family. A number were collected for our amusement; we sat to see them for about half an hour, and then went to view the dedicated treasures. They were arranged on the platform of a bamboo shade, about seventy feet in length and thirty broad; they consisted of a great variety of Burmhan temples and keouns in miniature, covered with plates of fifty per cent. silver, and filled with little images of their idols, from three inches to a foot in height, of the same materials. Besides those in the temples. &c., there were squadrons of

others

others of the same kind and quality arranged on the floor; also many which -they said were of solid gold, but on examination we found them less valuable; there were also two rows of about a dozen larger images of alabaster, from two to four feet in height, well gilt and burnished. These were of that remarkable kind which I have before noticed in this diary; their cast of features and hair being precisely that of the Abyssinian negroes; all the others were of Indian origin (but I shall have occasion to discuss this subject more at large in another place.) There were also several gilt metal flat caskets, said to contain gold and precious stones; Mr. Burnett saw the contents of two or three, though I did not; in them were several coloured stones, none above ten or fifteen carats weight, set in gilt foil.

There were also several piles of bricks, slabs of coloured glass, and white chattahs, such as are used by the royal family; and, lastly one of Dr. Priestley's machines for impregnating water with fixed air. On the opposite side in another shade, was an image of a deity in a portable temple, with poles fixed to it for four bearers, which we were informed were sufficient when his godship was in good humour, but when displeased, not all the power of the Burmhan empire could move it. Many miraculous cures are ascribed to the power of this deity; in pity to the multitude, it is therefore hoped that his majesty will not immure it in the vaults of the new temple. In a separate shade, in a moveable woodenhouse which travels on wheels, is a print of the foot of Gaudma, in a slab of marble, from the heel to the toe. It is about three feet in length and of a proportional breadth; but, the history of this impression I did not learn, as my conductors were in haste to go home. At the gate of this enclosure, the sanctified ground terminating, we again put on our shoes and descended towards the river, passing the looto in our way back to the boats. Round the looto were seated a great number of the country guards with their arms piled, their appearance much the same as the rabble infantry of the native powers in India. The rayhoon desired permission to return to his own house, and we being embarked in the boats as we came, were soon landed at our own.

EATING HORSE FLESH.

April 9. In the forenoon died one of the horses presented me by the whoon

gec, the carcase was begged by the Burmhans to eat. The tribe of smiths, including all the artificers in metals, are particularly fond of horse-flesh, supposing it best calculated to recruit the strength wasted by working at their forges. Auimals that have died from disease are, in general, eaten by the inhabitants of the country who are fond of flesh; but as metempsychosists, they are prohibited from killing animals for food. In this they resemble their neighbours the Chinese; and I apprehend this filthy custom of eating the flesh of diseased animals is the cause of a dreadful disorder which attacks the extremities with ulcerous sores, which soon mortify, and leave those who survive disgusting and mutilated objects. The beggars of the country are chiefly composed of this class, and wander about the country in groups; assembling at the feasts of the principal pagodas, where they are relieved by the bounty of the devout and humane, Coming up the river we met two or three squadrons of little boats belonging to these wretched pilgrims, going with their families to the southward; except these it is rare to see a beggar in the Burmhan dominions. They seem to be licenced by their peculiar misfortune; the other poor, as far as I can learn, are subsisted at the baws or cottages of the poonghees of each monastery, make a procession early every morning to appropriated quarters of the town, to collect the donations of the charitable, which, in general, consist of boiled rice, vegetable curries, and fruit.

THE WEATHER.

May 9. The general course of the weather is as follows, according to our reckoning by the civil day, which commences at midnight. After sun-set, or about eight P. M., a breeze springs up from the south-eastward, increases to a fresh breeze during the night, lulls in the morning about four o'clock. After sun-rise, or about seven A. M., springs up again from the same quarter, freshens to a smart breeze during the day, gradually dying away to a calm about sun-set. This course occurred during these twenty-four hours. The weather was sultry, cloudy to the S.E., with lightning at sun-set. Thermometer six A.M. 85°; barometer 29,38, twelve N.; thermometer 93o; barometer 29,44, six P.M.: thermometer 940 barometer 29,35. In the morning a procession passed by from the fort to the river, consisting of several sets of

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