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country musicians and dancers, two files, said to be 500 each of common people, with little earthern-pots and sprigs of trees in them, closed by the officers of the prince's household, in their court-dresses and on horseback. They went down to the river, filled their pots with water, and returned in the same order. This ceremonial of washing the prince's head occurs twice a year, when all the great men pay their court, and prisoners for trivial offences are liberated. In the evening the Enga Tekaing's house-steward came, to ask me for a bottle of brandy for his master; as I was doubtful of his authority, and the use of all intoxicating liquors or drugs being strictly prohibited, I declined giving it, until I had consulted the Enga Tekaing's whoon.

May 10. This being the day of fullmoon, several processions paraded the streets with votive offerings to the Burmħan deities; and I had a long visit from two distant relations of the royal family. In the morning I sent to ask the enga's whoon about the brandy business, and, with his advice, sent a Lottle immediately. It is intended, I am told, to make a lotion, the virtues of which are such, that whoever washes with it becomes invulnerable. This magical liquor is dispensed by the Enga Tekaing to his particular favourites. HOLYDAY FESTIVAL.

May 25. This being the day of the moon's change, is a holyday with the Burmhans; when they go to pay their devotions, and make offerings at the shrine of their divinities. Since the 10th of April I have regularly distributed alms every morning to 150 poonghees, according to the Burmhan custom; and at every full and change of the moon have had twenty-one poonghees to partake, as it is called, of a charitable feast. This morning as usual, the appointed number came, my great hall was carpetted, and wooden trays arranged the whole length of the room, four for each poonghee; the first contained fried fish, ballehong, turtle eggs, curries, &c., dressed after the Burmhan style, made up in little plates of leaves; the second pancakes, and Burmhan sweetmeats; the third, mangoes and other sweetmeats; the fourth bunches of plaintains, a green cocoanut, betel leaves and nut, tobacco, chinam, &c. &c. After the poonghees had been seated a few minutes, their servants and scholars brought in the

of

bowls which they carry in making their daily collections of rice, &c.; these they placed before them; the mewjerry, who is my master of the ceremonies, then presented to the head poonghee, who was seated in the centre, two cups water. Out of the first he took water to wash his mouth and drink. He then puts the points of his fingers in the other, and prayed over it in a low voice; the mewjerry then took away the water, and my Burmhan attendants put the contents of the first row of trays into their bowls, which signified their acceptance of the feast. Their servants and scholars then took away the bowls, and the remainder of the trays to the outer verandah, to put the contents in baskets, and carry them away; the mewjerry, &c., then presented to the chief poonghee three trays, one with a pyramid of boiled rice on it, the other with fruit, and the third with betel, &c.; these he touched with the points of his fingers, and appeared to bless them; in turn they were presented to each of the poonghees, who performed the same ceremony; they were then put apart as consecrated, to be exposed near a temple, on an open altar, for the benefit of the crows and pian dogs; (this is one of the usages which his majesty ridicules and condemns.) On these occasions the neighbours assist at the house where the feast is made. Several men and women were assembled at my house; these now advanced and kneeled in two groups before the line of poonghees, the women to the right of the men: the mewjerry gave a few grains of parched paddy to each, which they held in their hands closed, with the palms together a little elevated, in a supplicating posture; they then repeated a prayer after the chief poonghee, in the manner of part of our service; the chief poonghee then prayed, the other poonghees placing their fans of palm-leaves before their faces, accompanying him; after this prayer was finished, the chief poonghee delivered a kind of lecture in an audible tone of voice-a lesson I suppose from some of their books of divinity, and, if I might judge from the chanting tone, was a kind of meter. This lasted about ten or fifteen minutes, when they arose and walked off without ceremony.

ALCHEMY.

June 1. In the evening the king's jewel merchant visited me, his errand was to obtain some information respecting alchemy, in which the royal fa

mily, particularly the Enga, are dabblers: they have a high opinion of the medicinal virtues of the exploded elixirs, and conserves of precious stones and metals; I gave him some specimens of metallic salts, &c. and endeavoured, but in vain, to dissuade him from such illusive pursuits.

PROCESSION OF THE SULTAN.

I was

carriage I brought, drawn by men; and immediately after it his majesty with the first queen, in his old carriage, drawn by four led horses, the blinds down. He laughed, and spoke out loudly while passing, seeming well pleased with my attention. seated in a chair at the door of the hall, and when he came in front I rose up, took off my hat, bowing and placing my hand on my breast; Mr. Burnett and Mr. Rowland standing on either side, and bowing at the same time. The rest of my suite were arranged on each hand of the verandah. Before the front of my house I had made a railing of bamboo lattice-work, covered on the outside with yellow cloth, and over it gold and silver tange was spread; immediately in front of the verandah was a portico forty-eight feet long, covered on the top with scarlet cloth, hanging down towards the front about three feet, with gold tange along the front, dropping about two feet below the red cloth. The bamboo pillars, &c. covered with yellow silk, and a screen of yellow silk curtains along the front of the verandah, so as entirely to cover the piers, leaving the doors open. The house was also newly white-washed, and the road levelled and sanded before the door; and just before his majesty passed I had the road strewed with gold-leaf; the crowd were kept clear of the front by a Burmhan peon; and on the whole, for this place, we made a very fine show. The intent, however, was every thing, and it being wholly unexpected. He was highly gratified, saying aloud to his courtiers, "Ah, this is the company, that is my Resident," and kept his eyes on me the whole time he was passing. On each side his majesty's carriage marched spearmen, and it was surrounded by a crowd of his courtiers, &c. &c.; immediately after it followed foot soldiers, troopers, and war-elephants, but the whole too irregular and insignificant to make any impression on me. After his majesty, came the Enga Tekaing on horse-back, preceded and followed by foot soldiers and spearmen, and surrounded by his particular servants. He looked towards me till he came immediately opposite, and then he affected to turn his head another way; I rose and bowed to him as he passed. After him came a number of gilt palkees, with the queens and concubines, each with their particular female servants; young princes carried on men's shoul

June 8. At one o'clock at night the pacaam whoongee passed by, on his way to the water-side, and sent word to inform me that his majesty would arrive early in the morning. At six A. M. I received advice that his majesty had arrived at the upper landing-place, about two miles to the northward, there not being water enough for his boat at the lower one. About nine A. M. the Enga Tekaing passed by, on his way to meet his father; at ten the gun fired as a signal for his majesty's landing. About half-past ten the head of the procession began to pass by: first, a string of his majesty's elephants; next a body of foot-soldiers, each with a rusty musket on his shoulder, clothed like the common people of the country; they marched, or rather walked, in two Indian files, without any regularity; next followed the king's grandson, on a very lofty elephant; he sat on the neck of the elephant, and held the guiding-hook himself, but in fact the animal required no guiding. A welldressed mohaut sat behind him, and supported him in his arms. The young prince was naked from his waist upwards, having on only a silk lungee, and an embroidered handkerchief on his head, gold bangles on his ancles and wrists, and several chains set with stones, &c. on his neck. After him came several gilt palkees, with women of the palace, &c.; at a distance behind him followed a son of the king's by a favourite concubine, on a small elephant, which he guided himself; after him followed five of the king's elephants, with war-howdahıs, having large shields on each side of the how dah, painted red and gilt; then followed his majesty's troopers in their war-diess, but very shabby, and on wretched, half-starved, small horses, of these there might be sixty or eighty; then several gilt brass three-pounders, on field-carriages, drawn by men, with several red painted and gilt ammunition carts, drawn by two horses cach; on each side after these marched foot soldiers, armed and clothed as those before mentioned; then followed the

ders,

ders, with gilt umbrellas over them; and hackeries variously decorated with women of the palace. About half-past eleven the prince of Prone passed on horse-back, with something less state than the Enga. He looked stedfastly at me the whole time he was passing, and I rose and bowed to him. I waited half an hour longer for the other princes; when, hearing they had taken another road, I ordered money to be distributed among the crowd, and retired. The whole of this procession was very irregular, and the paraphernalia much below what I expected. In the intervals between the passing of the several persons of the royal family, the crowd could hardly be kept within bounds by my peon; but, when any of the royal family approached, they flew like so many shadows crouching to the ground. I also observed that the gilt chattres, servants, and carriages, were obliged to make several trips for the inferior branches of the royal family. There might be altogether about 100 elephants in the procession, but some of them very small, and most of them very poor, and meanly equipped. The foot-guards could not amount to more than five or six hundred men altogether, and the troopers to sixty or eighty.

THE QUEEN MOTHER.

June 26. Early in the morning the queen mother, in a superb palkee of state, borne by thirty-six men, and attended by a great number of the ladies of the palace in their palkees, passed by on their way to accompany the Assamese princess to court; also a party of troopers, musketeers, spearmen, &c. The fronts of all the houses in the high street, through which the procession is to pass, are ornamented with verandahs of bamboos and mats, so constructed as to form a double roof open towards the streets, ornamented with painted borders; and the shops filled with their best goods, which were to be sold to the princess's retinue at reduced rates. Cannon were planted at all the cross streets; plaintain trees and sugar canes planted on each side the street, and the street clean swept. About half-past seven A. M. the procession began to pass by. First in order were spearmen, then musketeers, then Burmhan bramins, then music, then state chattres of a particular construction, then the queen mother's state equipage of beaten gold, then the queen mother in her state palkee, very high and large; on the platform of the pal

kee two young women richly dressed knelt in front, and two in the rear, facing inwards, with their hands closed palm to palm, and raised to their foreheads, in the Burmhan mode of paying homage. Men bearing gilt chattres surrounded the palkee. After the queen mother's palkee followed a small body of cavalry, then spearmen and musketeers, then men carrying the princess's dowry, consisting of elcphants teeth, jasper-stones, Assamese arms, chests of clothes, bedding, &c. &c., then followed several Assamese bramins, with white turbans, and long white jammahs. Then two woondocks, and several other Burmhan officers; then women dressed in white, beating large tomtoms, with crooked silver soontahs, others sounding silver trumpets of various forms, others playing on silver cymbals; then followed the princess's state equipage of beaten gold; then the princess in a superb state palkee, borne as the queen inother's, with two young women kneeling in front and rear; the curtains were of Chinese flowered gauze, so that she might see without being seen; immediately after her followed another party of Burmhan horse, then about twenty palkees, with court ladies, and the whole was closed by musketeers, spearmen, &c. The front of my house was ornamented, and Burmhan dancers and musicians exhibited in the front verandah. I had my breakfast-table placed in the front verandah, at which we were seated when the procession passed.

DEGRADATION OF MINISTERS.

August 13. This morning I learnt that his majesty had degraded the pacaam and somba whoonghees, on account of some religious opinions respecting the candle feast. The pacaam whoonghee has been treated with particular severity; he has been turned out of his house, and deprived of all the insignia of his high rank. On account of this punishment the guards at the palace-gates have been reinforced, and a stricter discipline ordained. Two seraghdohs, or poonghee bishops, have also been confined in irons. This severity, it is supposed, is occasioned by the intrigues of the mhee whoonghee, who aspires at the pacaam whoonghee's place. The pacaam is a venerable and respectable old man, and a general favourite, having filled the office of whoonghee with reputation ever since the first accession of the family of Alam-praw

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August 18. Last night a rich Burmhan was beheaded by order of his majesty, his body exposed, and his property confiscated. A party of Chinese, with presents from a frontier province, have arrived, and the sheradoghee, who came up the river with me, and was sent on an embassy to China in April last, has returned with them. It appears, or rather, it is said, he was prevented proceeding by some insurrection in China.

August 20. In the morning I sent my interpreter to make a last effort with the attawhoon of the palace, to deliver a letter from me to his majesty; but both of those he saw positively refused, saying, that they dared not. One of them said his majesty's sword is too sharp; you see a rich man was beheaded but yesterday without committing any fault. He then stated his case; the unfortunate man had been renter of a considerable district, and amassed wealth by oppression; complaints were lodged, he was tried, found guilty; mulcted, and declared incapable of serving his majesty, who ordered him to retire from court, and never appear before him again. Unfortunately for him his ambition would not permit him to remain quiet in obscurity; his wealth enabled him to find patrons, and through them he twice petitioned his majesty for permission to reside at the capital, and be enrolled as one of his merchants; these petitions were rejected. He, notwithstanding, persevered to a third attempt, and to ensure success offered a considerable bribe to one of his majesty's favourite daughters to present it, which she undertook. The king, on receiving the petition, was extremely enraged, and exclaimed, I have repeatedly ordered this villain not to presume to approach me; let him be immediately apprehended and confined. This order was given at four o'clock in the evening, and immediately executed. The man, too late dreading the effects of his majesty's wrath, immediately began to scatter his wealth among the royal family; money and jewels were sent to all such as were supposed to have influence; the bribes were received, and he was told not to suffer any apprehension; however, at seven the same

evening his majesty ordered that he should be beheaded, and his property confiscated. The sentence was immediately carried into execution, and the myrmidons of the palace took possession of his property. His body is exposed above ground, pinned to the earth, where it is to rot; the king's doctor cut off the tip of his nose, ears, lips, tongue, and fingers, which, with some of his blood, is to form a compound in some medicine of wonderful efficacy in ensuring longevity, and prosperity to those who are so happy as to obtain a portion of it from his majesty's bounty. This is one of the palace nostrums, of which there are many others equally mystic in the preparation, and wonderful in the operation; these his majesty occasionally dispenses to the credulous multitude. The fall of a rich man proves a source of revenue beyond the amount of his immediate assets. His books are carefully examined, and all whose names are there entered, whether the account has been settled or not, are sued for the full amount of the entry, and are obliged to pay the demand, without daring to demur or question the legality of the action; and names are often inserted on the occasion. My cash-keeper is among the sufferers on this; his name is down for 600 ticals, which he solemnly declares he paid near two years ago; and many other merchants in town have been charged in sums proportioned to their supposed fortunes. Exclusive of these mulcts, the defunct was found possessed of cash to the amount of 40,000 ticals; and jewels and merchandize amounting to as much more. The principal part of this sum the king, it is said, has given to his favourite grandson.

A CONSPIRACY DETECTED.

September 5. A conspiracy, in which the mhee whoonghee and his sons are deeply implicated, has just been discovered by the confession of one of the conspirators: their plan of operation was, that when he had marched with the army to the hills, about a day's march, he was to make a signal, and then the conspirators in the fort, &c. were to arm themselves and followers from his magazine, and set fire to the city in various quarters. This was to be a signal for him to return and complete the business. This con

*Something analogous to extents in aid in the revenue laws of England.

fession

fession was immediately communicated to his majesty, who gave orders for the mhee whoonghee's being seized and his house searched. The arms were found as reported, and the same confession exteried from several others of the conspirators; among the rest was my acquaintance the young chobwa and his companion. When the mhee whoonghee was brought before his majesty and confronted by his sons, he confessed his having erred in amassing such a quantity of arms without acquainting his majesty, but professed they were intended to be used only against his enemies, and denied every other part of the accusation. It is said he was severely tortured by ligatures on his limbs, and beating him over the breast, joints. shins, and back, with a bar of iron, but without effect; and that he was afterwards loaded with irons, and confined in the palace prison. His sons also were subjected to the same treatment, and every sus pected person apprehended and confined in various prisons. The enga's whoon has been appointed generalissimo, and taken command of the new levies, &c.

September 6. Yesterday being full moon, and held holy by the Burmans, prevented any thing being done in the affair of the conspirators, except precautions against surprise or riots. Horsemen patroled the streets at night, and the inhabitants kept quiet within their houses, trembling for the consequences; so that after dark the city was as still as a desert. I also thought it necessary to bring my guard and servants into my house, and shut the doors at night. This day, however, it was expected that the prisoners would be executed; I, therefore, sent my interpreter into the fort to collect intelligence. On his return he informed me that his majesty had granted the mhee whoonghee and his party their lives, at the intercession of the queen mother; that his irons had been taken off, but that he was still in confine

ment.

The mhee whoongee, from whatever cause, was entrusted with more power than any other man in the empire; his will was law without appeal; he was generally detested, and as much feared; clownish and brutal in his manners, and depraved in his appetites; not remarkable for talents of any kind, except those of abjectly cringing to his majesty, and his favourite children,

&c. hence, therefore, his majesty's partiality; he was a necessary engine for a despotic government; his vices, and low origin, perhaps, were considered as a security for his fidelity; his dependence resting solely on his master'sprotection, who made him the stalkinghorse to screen him from the odium of occasional severity, or other unpopular measures; and opposed him as a counterpoise to the power and ambition of his children. Whoever searches the annals of tyranny will find that a policy of this kind is always among the wretched shifts of despots; and, it is more than probable, that the avowed enmity of the royal family, especially of the heir-apparent, will secure his impunity, if not occasion his reinstatement. In the evening I went to examine if my boats were ready, and found them sufficiently so, to admit of embarking the remainder of my baggage. I mean, however, to suspend my preparations a day or two, to see what will be the effect of this revolution, especially as it is confidently said that the mayhoon will be here in a day or two; although, I must confess, I have but small hopes of success. The mhee whoonghee was certainly my ostensible enemy, but I doubt much whether he was not secretly encouraged by the master-hand. I have heard, that when the news of my arrival was first reported to his majesty by the mayhoon, he called a council of his principal officers, who were unanimous in their opinion that an alliance with the English would tend to his majesty's honour and advantage, except the mhee whoonghee; who was uniformly in opposition, until after his public interviews with me at Mheghoon, where it appears my conduct pleased him so much, that on his joining his majesty at Kcounmeoun, he was as loud in my praise. In consequence, his majesty took an opportunity, in full court, of reproaching him for his tergiversation, sneeringly adding, I suppose the Resident has fee'd you well for this conversion. Piqued at the severity of this reproof, he has ever since secretly been my enemy, and availed himself of the first plausible pretence of again opposing me openly, and this I have experienced in all its bitterness; and, as it has been totally undeserved on my part, it certainly tends to confirm this report. My situation is truly distressing, exposed to the brutal insults of a lawless people, under circumstances

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