six or eight miles inland, curving slightly; on its banks are situated the dock-yard of the Grand Signior, and several majestic line of battle ships float upon its bosom, with hundreds of merchant vessels of all shapes and sizes, from the awkward high stern of the Turk to the most improved models of European naval architecture.

Turning my back on Constantinople, I face Galata, and the extensive dark cypress groves of the Turkish cemeteries rise gloomily behind the shipping, the minarets, and the towers. The numerous houses of Galata, Pera, and Tophana extend from the top of the hills down to the sea, and far away over the water is seen Scutari, with its mosques, cemeteries and barracks, and the banks of the Bosphorus, covered with houses, trees, gardens and vineyards. The sun is just sinking behind the western hills, the voice of the muezzin is heard from the minarets, calling the people to evening prayer, a long melodious chaunt; crowds of light, elegant caiques, filled with the gayest costumes, dart through the waters, and the whole scene possesses a novelty and striking beauty, quite equal to the most glowing descrip

tion.

We descended into a light, clean, elegant wherry, rowed by a fine muscular fellow, in a

CONSTANTINOPLE.

173

very picturesque dress, and soon found ourselves at the landing-place at Galata; here the magic of the scene was entirely dissipated, and we entered a dirty, dingy street, amid a crowd of people of all nations, over stones and holes, and filth, and through crowds of snarling, barking dogs. We were accompanied by a set of "hamals" or porters, and had a man with a stick to make way through Turks, Armenians, and Jews, all in their respective costumes, intermixed with the Frank population, composed of a dozen different nations. After trotting up the hill, we entered Pera and traversed the best street, in which were some tolerably decent houses, and here and there the pretty face of a Frank girl at a window. Turning to the left, we came to the top of a hill by an immense Turkish cemetery, and enjoyed a magnificent view of Constantinople, and the whole of the Golden Horn filled with shipping. By nightfall, we were comfortably located in the house of an Armenian, who gave us three excellent rooms, looking over the tall cypresses of the cemetery on one side, and into the garden of the British ambassador on the other.

CHAPTER VII.

CONSTANTINOPLE.-BOATS.-GRAND SIGNIOR.-STATE PRO

CESSION. SOLDIERS.-DOGS.-BAZAARS.-WOMEN.COOK

SHOP.-MADHOUSE.-MADMEN.-JANISSARY AGA'S TOWER. -SCENERY.-SLAVE MARKET.-GEORGIAN SLAVE. TURKISH LADIES' CARRIAGE,

He went to mosque in state, and said his prayers
With more than oriental scrupulosity;

He left to his vizier all state affairs,

And show'd but little royal curiosity.

BYRON.

May 29th.-Immediately after breakfast we hurried down to the waterside, and hired a kirlangishe or "swallow boat," with two rowers. These are the most beautiful boats I ever saw, sharp as a needle, bow and stern. They hold two persons, and are constructed of beautiful wood, something like lance wood, richly carved, ornamented and carpeted. Caution is requisite on entering them, as

they are very light and easily upset. The costume of the rowers, especially of those in the private boats, is most elegant; the head is shaved with the exception of a tall high tuft or plume of hair left to grow on the very top. They are habited

in voluminous cotton trousers

and a white silk

shirt, with loose flowing sleeves reaching a little below the elbow, and hanging down for a foot or a foot and a half; in cool weather, they have a scarlet or green habit wound round the body, which, contrasted with the white silk sleeves, has a very gay appearance. Many of them are very fine fellows, with tall, dark, sun-burnt foreheads, but it is impossible to give you an idea of the extraordinary style and character that the tuft gives them.

Having placed ourselves in the boat with the dragoman squatted below, we darted off into the waters, telling them to row quickly to the valley of the Sweet Waters, as the Grand Signior was going in state to the mosque. Cautiously our rowers turned their heads from side to side,"shouting to the numerous kirlangishes which swept rapidly by, and warning them of our approach. It is, indeed, necessary to be cautious, as the sharp points projecting from the bow would pierce through any boat with which they came in contact.

We were advancing up the harbour of Perami, or Golden Horn; on our left rose Constantinople, with its mosques, minarets, and towers; on our right a vast cemetery, shaded with innumerable cypress trees, extended from the suburbs of Galata, to the navy yard, in front of which floated several superb vessels of war, with the golden crescent glittering proudly on a red flag at the stern.

We passed the palace of the Capitana Bey, or second admiral of the Turkish navy, a small palace of the Sultan, and the artillery barracks, a large good looking building, with an extensive terrace in front, covered with several field-pieces. Morad Bey, one of the admirals of the Turkish navy, swept rapidly past us in a beautiful boat, with ten rowers; and several great Turks in blue frock coats, and scarlet caps, the new regulation dress of the Sultan, every now and then glided along; gradually the boats became thinner, the houses became more scattered, and after rowing about five miles, we were leaving Constantinople behind us. Houses and green trees studded the left shore, and behind rose a lofty hill, covered with a Turkish cemetery, and tall cypresses. On our left were some gardens, and at the gates were several boats filled with officers in uniform. In a short time we arrived at a small palace, the re