that a white thread cannot be distinguished from a black one, fourth at bedtime, and fifth early in the morning. But these five are pretty generally reduced to three, which are strictly attended to in all circumstances and situations; and no business can excuse their omission.

CHAPTER IX.

CONSTANTINOPLE.

ANTIENT WALLS. WINE SHOPS.

PEREOTE FEMALES.-TRAGIC STORY.-SUBLIME PORTE.

muros Babylonios aut Memnonios non vidi, neque

quenquam audivi qui ipsos vidisset. Muri Byzantii et Rhodi existimantur munitissimi."

LATIN VERSION OF PAUSANIAS.

JUNE 7th. We visited the ancient walls of Constantinople, and rowed up the harbour amid crowds of boats filled with gay costumes of brilliant colours. We passed the Capudan Pasha, seated cross-legged on crimson cushions, in the stern of a large boat, rowed by sixteen oars; and shortly afterwards, Achmet Pasha, in a smaller one, which swept swiftly past us. The base of the triangular ground on which Constantinople stands, is occupied on the land side by a triple range of lofty

ruined walls and towers, and a broad moat, now turned into a garden.

The first wall beyond the moat is much ruined; on the inside of it runs a succession of arches, opening on loop-holes, and supporting above them remnants of a paved causeway, which runs close behind the battlements and passes through each tower. The second wall is very lofty and of great thickness; many of the towers are perfect on the outside.

In various parts may be observed remnants of the antient watercourses which conducted water into the city under the foundations of this immense mass of masonry, and which now, from the decay of the watercourses, breaking forth in several places, serves to fertilize the little gardens that are formed in the rich mould at the bottom of the moat. On the walls and from out the towers, grow large trees and shrubs, whose leafy branches are tenanted by numerous birds that enliven the neighbourhood with their sweet songs, and afford an agreeable contrast to the gloom and solitude of the sombre Turkish burying grounds that cover the country on the opposite side.

Alongside the moat runs an old paved road, and as we ascended a slight eminence, the old walls, towers, and extensive battlements, covered

with ivy and the green branches of innumerable trees, presented a grand and most picturesque -scene of ruins.

The antient gateways leading into the town. have been built up and rendered much smaller by the Turks. Most of them have inscriptions in Greek, and some in Latin, but so high up and so illegible from dirt, that we did not take the trouble to copy them, thinking it had doubtless been already done: over one gate, however, cut in a block of marble, was a Latin inscription in which the name of Theodosius occurred, and the following line very plainly written:

"Constantinus ovans hæc monia firma locavit.”

Inside this gateway the Turks have constructed a smaller one, formed of marble columns laid horizontally, and resting on two perpendicular columns on either side, filled in with masonry. The columns are small, and covered with a beautiful red paint. A little way beyond, we crossed the moat by a bridge to another gateway, formed of two large blocks of white marble resting upon two side architraves of the same material, covered with the same red paint. Passing through we found ourselves in the town. A paved road ran close along the walls, and on each side of the gate were two

immense archways. Retracing our steps and passing along the external walls, we observed on the tower on the left hand side three Greek inscriptions in very large characters. I am not aware if these different inscriptions have been copied, but I should think they must have been long ago. We observed the names of several of the emperors among them:

ΚΩΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΥ ΤΩΝ ΠΟΡΦΥΡΟΓΕΝΗΤΩΝ.

On the inside of the next gateway facing the town, is a block of white marble let into the wall, upon which is sculptured an eagle with outspread wings. Beyond this we reached the gate of Selyviria, and branched off the road to a small cemetery where are five Turkish tombstones in a row, the monuments of Ali Pasha of Joanina, his three sons, and grandson; and in Turkish is the following inscription:

"Here lies the head of Ali, of Tepelini, Governor of the Sanjak of Joanina, who for fifty years pretended to independence in Roumelia, and those of Monctar Pasha, Veli Pasha, Saelik Pasha, Mehemed Pasha."

The five heads were purchased at a great price, and interred here by the Turk who had always