GROVE OF ESCULAPIUS.

29

"in harmony and beauty of workmanship what artist can come into competition with Polycletus, who built the theatre and Tholus of the Epidauri ?" This sacred grove formerly contained temples of Venus, Themis, and Diana; baths erected by Antoninus Pius; and a building, beyond the sacred precincts, for the reception of the dying, and the women in labour, as it was unlawful to die or be born within the sacred district. Such was its sanctity, that according to Livy, lib. x. c. 47, a deputation was decreed at Rome, to Esculapius of Epidaurus, (293 B. C.,) to implore his aid in curing a pestilence which ravaged the city and neighbouring country, and a ship was afterwards sent, and one of the sacred serpents brought back to Rome. Strabo describes the sanctuary as a place renowned for the cure of all sorts of diseases, and always full of invalids, and the walls. of the temple were covered with tablets descriptive of the cures.

Taking up our quarters for the night in a hovel, we sent down to the miserable port of Epiada, to search for a boat to carry us across the gulph of Ægina to the island.

April 30th. Started early in the morning for Epiada: the scenery appeared very beautiful; we were surrounded by lofty mountains, and rode

through a valley, filled with myrtles and dwarf evergreen shrubs. The sun rose magnificently behind the mountains of Attica, and the gulph of Ægina, with its numerous islands and bold rocky shores, had a most lovely appearance.

We passed the miserable village of Epiada, and through olive plantations and some scanty vineyards, to the port. Of the ancient Epidaurus scarcely any vestiges remain.

CHAPTER II.

ISLAND OF EGINA.-BAY OF SALAMIS.-MEGARA.-GREEK PEASANTRY. SCENERY. POLICE

OFFICER.ELEUSIS.

IMPRESSIONS.

ATHENS.-ATHENIAN RUINS. GENERAL

MOUNT PENTELICUS.-MARATHON.-MODERN ATHENS.

"WHY need we say (exclaims Strabo) that Ægina is one of the most celebrated of the islands, the native country of Eacus, and the acidæ, which once enjoyed the dominion of the seas, and contended with Athens herself, for the prize of superior glory in the battle with the Persian fleet at Salamis?"

As the wind was fair, and the island of Ægina in sight, about thirty miles off, we trusted ourselves to a frail bark; and soon after mid-day, we arrived at the ancient port of Ægina, and the site of the ancient town, marked by a large tumulus, and a beautiful Doric column, with the greater portion of the shaft of another standing by its side. There are ruins of two ancient ports, surrounded by shattered walls and moats, twenty feet thick. The walls of the town may be traced

through a valley, filled with myrtles and dwarf evergreen shrubs. The sun rose magnificently behind the mountains of Attica, and the gulph of Ægina, with its numerous islands and bold rocky shores, had a most lovely appearance.

We passed the miserable village of Epiada, and through olive plantations and some scanty vineyards, to the port. Of the ancient Epidaurus scarcely any vestiges remain.