Sivut kuvina
PDF
ePub

CHAPTER II.

LYONS-THE RHONE-MARSEILLES-CLIMATE OF PROVENCE-HIERESCANNES-NISMES-MONTPELIER-CANAL DU MIDI.

THE route from Paris to Lyons by Orleans is mostly preferred on account of the railroad being available as far as Bourges (and shortly to Nevers), the cathedral of which is one of the finest in France. The whole journey requires about thirty-six hours. That by Auxerre and Chalons takes somewhat more time; the accomodation is, however, better, and from the last town to Lyons there is constant communication by steam-boats. The country is for the most part interesting. Some of the views in the forest of Fontainbleau, through which the road passes, are strikingly beautiful. Enormous masses of grey rock, which contrast agreeably with the surrounding foliage, lie scattered about in various directions, presenting a novel and curious appearance. The town possesses some good streets, but seems to be almost deserted. Travellers posting may visit the chateau and gardens en passant.

Sens is the first town of any importance on this route; the facade of the old gothic cathedral is fine, but the interior contains nothing worthy of observation except the mausoleum erected to the

Dauphin, the father of Louis XVI., which is but of indifferent execution. Auxerre is a large town, pleasantly situate on the Yonne, in a fruitful country, which produces a superior kind of wine. The golden tint of the vine leaves in autumn gives a rich and pleasing appearance to some parts of the country between Auxerre and Chalons, which at other times look dreary and cheerless. During the vintage season, the process of treading the grapes by men and women with bare feet (to which practice allusion is made in the Scriptures), will frequently be seen in the vineyards on the road side. It is, however, a mistake to suppose that the peasantry in the wine countries are better off than in others, the reverse being more frequently the case, as great distress ensues if the season should be bad, which not unfrequently happens.

The environs of Autun are beautiful and richly wooded. The town has a clean and cheerful aspect, the hill, on the acclivity of which it stands, commanding a delightful prospect. Chalons is also a pretty town, and looks well from a distance. The quays are spacious and handsome. Two or three steamers descend the Saone daily to Lyons, making the transit in six or seven hours; they do not, however, convey carriages, which can be forwarded by a steam coche d'eau. The banks of the river are, for the most part, flat and cultivated. Beyond Macon, celebrated for its wine, the scenery is extremely pleasing, and increases in interest on approaching Lyons. The road, which

runs in great part parallel with the river, passes over Mont d'Or, so called from the rich colour of its vineyards in autumn, and from the summit of which a charming and extensive prospect may be enjoyed of the rich plains of Burgundy on the one side, of the Lyonnois on the other, and of the snow-clad Alps of Dauphiné in the distance. The descent to Lyons passes through a succession of meadow land, orchards, and vineyards.

Lyons is principally built between the Rhone and the Saone; in addition to the old bridge a suspension bridge has recently been constructed over the latter river. The quays are spacious but not clean. The principal squares are the Place de Bellecour, perhaps the largest in Europe, and the Place des Terreaux, which contains the Hotel de Ville, and a good museum of natural history. The largest, as well as the finest public edifice, is the hospital, which is surmounted by a dome, its facade occupying a considerable extent of the Quai du Rhone. There are no other public buildings remarkable in an architectural point of view. The streets are mostly narrow and dirty; the houses old and lofty. Lyons consequently offers no inducement to travellers to prolong their sojourn beyond a day. The velvets and silks are justly celebrated, and their manufacture occupies a large proportion of the population. The labouring classes, as in most other manufacturing towns, are for the most part republicans, and turbulent. The view from the

Terrasse de Fourvieres of the city, the junction of the two rivers, a vast extent of fertile country and vine-clad hills, with the distant view of the Alps, is considered as one of the finest in Europe.

Steam-boats descend the Rhone to Avignon in about eleven hours; setting off early in the morning, and on the following day leave Avignon for Marseilles, which occupies nearly as much time. They are larger than those on the Saone, and take carriages, but the accommodation is indifferent, and they are often inconveniently full. The scenery on descending is highly interesting, not unfrequently resembling that of the Rhine below Mayence; the river flowing rapidly between steep hills, ever and anon crowned with ruins, and cut in terraces for the cultivation of the vine. On advancing more to the south the banks become flatter, and the Alps rise more distinctly upon the view. At the Pont St. Esprit, which is of great antiquity, the current is very strong, and some degree of excitement attends the passing beneath the arch, several accidents having happened at this point. This is the only stone bridge between Lyons and Avignon, but several handsome suspension bridges have been constructed of late years. When from any cause Avignon is not likely to be reached by daylight, the steamer does not proceed beyond Pont. St. Esprit, proceeding the next day to Avignon. On account of the rapid communication by the river (Avignon being distant from Lyons about 140

miles), there is not much travelling downwards by the road along its left bank, which is principally traversed by waggons laden with heavy goods from Marseilles, and is consequently frequently in bad order, especially after heavy rains. The towns are dirty and badly built, and the accommodation indifferent. Nothing but an occasional glimpse of the river and of the Cevennes range of hills on the opposite bank occurs to relieve the monotony of the route till Orange, where a fine Roman arch stands by the road-side, and beyond which the scenery is of a more inte resting character.

Avignon is encircled by high walls, and has every appearance of great antiquity. The papal palace, a fine old gothic edifice, with handsome facade, is now converted into barracks. From the top of the hill, on the acclivity of which the town is built, an extensive view may be obtained of the plains of Languedoc and Provence, as also of the course of the river, which is here of great breadth, enclosing an island which serves as a point d'appui to the two bridges across its branches. In the cathedral is the tomb of "le brave Crillon," and the spot occupied by that of Petrarch's Laura is pointed out among the ruins of the church of the Cordeliers. The environs of Avignon are uninteresting, but an agreeable excursion may be made by those not pressed for time to the

66 Chiare, fresche e dolce acque,"

of Vaucluse, about fifteen miles distant.

« EdellinenJatka »