netic needle, little heeds how short the time since his be nighted race groped their uncertain way by the imperfect indications of the astrolabe, or, in earlier times, timidly crept from cape to promontory and from isle to isle, never daring to lose sight of land.

But, as we ladies can never be freemasons, why need you or I care any more about this proud trophy of theirs, than whether their charter dates from the Jews, or had its origin (as I believe) with the far more ancient Pelasgi; or whether the first royal arch commander of their tribe was a Cyclops or a Solomon? I think I hear you say, away with all such bas bleu-ism, and talk to me rather of shawls and robes, turbans and slippers, pearls and emeralds. Talk of Circassians and Georgians, hareems and baths, sherbets and sweetmeats, pipes and coffee. I would reply to your impatience by desiring you to wait until I get farther into the East, and become more familiar with those sweet appliances of Oriental luxury.

Here in Smyrna the modes of the Rue Vivienne and De la Paix are struggling for the ascendency with the fast expiring picturesque costumes of the Greek islands. Of this I have lately had some experience at several réunions, both of the European residents and native Greeks. Each alternate week throughout the winter there are assemblies held at the foreign and Greek casinos or assembly-rooms. There being no carriages here, ladies are obliged to go to the balls in sedan chairs. I saw a great variety of costumes, many of them very rich and beautiful. There is one head. dress universally worn by the Greek ladies here. It is a scarlet felted cap, set on one side of the head, and confined to it by their long hair, which is plaited and brought round the front and fastened behind. The cap is turned up about two inches, and on this part is a wreath of gold work; on the crown is a golden ornament, and pendant from the cen. tre is a tassel twelve or sixteen inches long, and about as

thick as the wrist, composed of various materials; sometimes all gold or pearls, and frequently having a large number of diamonds mixed with the latter. The tassel used

on ordinary occasions is made of blue silk. The cap is called a fez, and, when tastefully put on, is the most unique, graceful, and coquetish thing of the kind I have ever seen. Having had a fine gold tassel presented to me by a Greek lady, and one of pearls by my husband, I could do no less than get several of these caps, in order to utilize my presents. At these balls quadrilles and waltzes are the only dances. In the rooms leading from the Salle were several gaming-tables, around which I observed ladies crowding with quite as much empressement as the gentlemen, and they played as deeply. I observed them take out gold pieces, rouleau after rouleau, which would disappear immediately. I am told they often win or lose many thousands of piastres in an evening.

After the ball of last evening we supped at the house of a very worthy family from our own country, settled here, and I have seen nothing so comfortable in all the East as their snug American fireside. This, like all the other cities of the East, is not lighted at night; and when persons go out, they are obliged to be preceded by lanterns. This city is very subject to earthquakes; and, since we have been here, several slight shocks have been felt, although unperceived by me. There are many things about this place and its environs that I have not seen, owing to the extreme cold weather. We have quite as much as we can do to keep warm for the most part of the time, and should have been off some days ago had our vessel been ready to receive us. We sail to-morrow evening, after the daily "inbat" or sea. breeze shall have fallen. We shall, no doubt, visit this place again, as one can scarcely ever get out of the East without taking Smyrna in the way.

We are now all ready to embark in the morning, with a

good vessel, though very small, plenty of good stores, and an excellent French cook whom we found here. It would much amuse you to see the preparation required to ensure comfort for so short a voyage, after seeing with what little heed people embark every day on board our New-York packet ships for an Atlantic voyage. All they have to look to is a good supply of linen (an affair of twenty-four hours), and they are ready. They know that the ship has a full supply of cabin, bedroom, pantry, table, and kitchen furniture; that the steward has taken care that the larder, coops, and the pens are well supplied with dead and live stock, and the pantries well stored with all kinds of wines and liquors, preserves and fruits; in short, every article of table luxury that is susceptible of being taken to sea. Now here it is autre chose, tout a fait. First a suitable vessel is to be found, then an examination into her character and sea. worthiness, and into the character of the master (for one might here get hold of an old pirate). Next a bargain is to be made; then one is obliged, in order to be satisfied of personal safety, to go on board and examine the vessel's rigging, and to see that she has spare sails, &c. This is absolutely necessary, for this small class of vessels in these seas generally belong to those who navigate them, and who, being very poor, merely "get along" with the least possible expenditure, and make all the old odds and ends last until they are blown away. The vessel has to be thoroughly cleaned, and beds and bedding provided. After which comes the long bill of the chandler, who furnishes the table stores; next the cook must see that he has a suitable fireplace and fuel separate from the crew, and also that he has suitable coops, and these well filled, and his larder and pantry well stored. All the crockery and kitchen utensils have to be provided. In short, every article that is required by a packet ship, for the maintenance and comfort of her passengers, must be here found by, and at the expense of, those who would un

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dertake the shortest voyage. In such semi-barbarous countries as these, much more time and trouble, and treble the expense, are required for a comfortable fit-out than in the Atlantic ports. The only advantage is in the extremely low rate that a vessel and crew can be obtained for per month. Our brig has a master, mate, and crew of six men, and we have chartered it for two hundred dollars per month. Our charter permits us to retain the vessel as long as we please, and to take her anywhere within the Straits of Gib. raltar, or to discharge her on our arrival at Alexandria, on paying two hundred and fifty dollars for the trip. She sails under Austrian colours, and hails from Trieste, of which place the master is a native. The remainder of the equi page, I suppose, may be of all nations. Her name is the "Snami Bog" ("God with us"). Under such protection we can have nothing to fear, even should our Captain" Landsman" prove but an indifferent seaman.

While you may be sitting by your own comfortable fireside at home, I pray you to think of your friend who is roaming in these distant lands, and tossing upon the great deep at this most tempestuous season, and in these dangerous seas. And when you approach the family altar to return thanks for the manifold blessings you are enjoying, and to solicit a continuance of them, may you, in your aspirations to the throne of grace, never forget your wandering friend; and may our mutual prayers be heard and answered by that overruling Providence in whose hand we all are.

Again, I bid you an affectionate farewell.

LETTER VII.

Arrival at Alexandria.-Perils of the Sea.-An awkward Situation.Temple of Serapis.-Quarantine Regulations.-A bitter Disappointment. -Harbour of Alexandria.-Arrival of Pilgrims.

It is now more than a week that we have been quietly riding at anchor in quarantine, in the ancient port of Alexandria, and I have scarcely yet recovered from the fatigue. and excitement which I experienced during the most perilous sea-voyage I have ever made. My nerves still feel the sad effects of the powerful shock, and all I can yet realize is, that I am now here alive to tell the tale of another fortunate escape from those elements which seem to have conspired for our destruction.

We left Smyrna in the evening with a gentle land-breeze; the appearance of the city from the water was extremely interesting, as there was then a fête being celebrated by the Turks, and all the minarets of the mosques were beauti fully illuminated to their very summits; besides other il luminations in different parts of the city, which rises like an amphitheatre from the shore. Next morning we found ourselves becalmed, and were obliged to come to anchor, where we remained for twenty-four hours. The following morning a slight breeze enabled us to get down to the Straits of Scio, where we lost another day by contrary winds. This delay we did not so much regret, as it procured for us a rich treat, that of viewing leisurely the shores of the beau tiful island of Scio.

About sunset the western sky presented to us a very extraordinary appearance, and we perceived it caused so much alarm to our captain and crew, that they would have