of singularly artistic merit, on the ait of Twickenham. The pedestrian has a choice of pleasant, peaceful paths: through Richmond Park-where there are oaks which would inspire a Druid; by the banks of the river, to Kingston, and thence through Ditton, when he will obtain the first view of Hampton Court, already spoken of; or crossing Kingston Bridge, continue by the road or through Bushey Park. There is but little difference in the distance of any, and all afford charming walks.

But there are some steamers which ply from the metropolis as far as Hampton Court Bridge itself.

The residents on the banks of the Thames above Hampton Court do not need to be reminded what a delightful means of reaching Hampton their clear, lively river offers-rowing or punting down, and being towed back by an up-country barge. Even from Southampton, by means of the South-Western Railway, we may arrive at Hampton Court in almost less time than by a turnpike-road from the metropolis.

By whatever road you reach Hampton Court-east, from Kingston; west, from Hampton; or north, through Bushey Park (when you will pass the "lion" gates, the principal entrance to William III.'s portion of the palace) you should be careful that your

Entrance to the Palace

is through the gates at the foot of Hampton Court Bridge. Historic associations, awakened by the many very opposite aspects of the place, will then arise in due chronological review; and the numerous beauties will reach their climax as you make your exit from the gardens. But before you pass through these latter gates, decorated with heraldic emblems and trophies of George II., it will be well worth while to stand on the centre of Hampton Bridge, and thence obtain a general impression of those portions of the palace which own Cardinal Wolsey as their

architect.

"Towris hie, ful pleasant shal ye finde,

With fannis fresh, turning with everie winde;
The chambris and parlers of a sorte,

Wythe bay-wyndows goodlie as may be thoughte:"

thus sings old Chaucer;-and Skelton, a contemporary satirical <poet-

"With turrettes and with toures,
With halls and with boures,

Stretching to the starres,

With glass windows and barres;

Hanging about their walles

Clothes of golde and palles,

Arras of ryche arraye,

Fresh as floures in Maye."

Behind the row of venerable elms, which somewhat conceals the front view, the palace appears like a little town, and well it may, for its buildings are calculated to cover eight acres. As the eye here does not rest upon modern disfigurements, this view probably gives a very true impression of its original character. After passing through the gates, we see the long line of low brick barracks on the left, nearly joining the palace; the heavy, shapeless masses of brick on the right; and, in the centre, the Great Gate House of Wolsey's Palace. It is consoling to observe modern restorations of chimney shafts and pinnacles, and of the mullioned windows all in excellent and accurate harmony.

Instead of passing up the gravelled road, which presents the front at a disadvantageous angle, and gives undue importance to the left wing, it is best to cross the grass on the right, and

approach directly in front of the centre gateway under the shadows of the old elms. When the palace was first erected, Hampton Court Bridge did not exist. In contemporary accounts payments to the ferryman frequently occur. Thus, in the twenty-eighth year of Henry VIII.

"John Raynold, ferryman [was paid] for his delygent attendance in helpyng over the workmen evenyng and mornyng, by the space of a quarter of a year, 35. 4d."

In 1653, there was a ferry where the present bridge stands.

The centre of this western façade is a modern restoration, to which has recently been added a ceiling of carved stone fan tracery, with coats of arms. Originally, a moat passed round the house before this front, which was connected with "an arched bridge, built over the moate that lieth between the said

range of building and the Outer Green Court"-a small court, 'conteyning 3 roodes and 27 perches."

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But before passing the gateway, if you are not pressed for time, and desire to comprehend the general size and plan of the building, you should pass into the court on the left wing, and wander among the ancient gloomy passages, with their effects of light and shade strongly marked through the massive walls, offering ready-made pictures at every step.

Hereabouts is a court, called the ROUND KITCHEN COURT, which was probably one of the five courts of the palace, spoken of by Hentzner, in 1596.

Excepting the circular modern building in the centre, formerly

used as a kitchen, this court, with the semicircular bay-window of the Withdrawing Room, and the gable of the hall, preserves its ancient characteristics nearly untouched.

Traversing any of the passages on the left of this court, you will pass to the north side of the palace, called the

and these portions convev a good idea of the size of the old palace. Though much disfigured and neglected, they still retain a look of real antiquity. At the end of this lane the passages on the left lead to the TENNIS COURT itself, the interior of which

may be seen from them. The Tennis Court was more likely erected by Henry than by Wolsey. Expenses for its construction are among the public records of Henry VIII.'s reign:

"Master wyredrawers were paid for the wyndows of the new Tennys play, some at 16d. the day, and others at 8d.'

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There was also an open tennis play," and the "bowlyng allys" were near the "tennys playes; so there was no lack of such pastimes. There was, in this neighbourhood, a court thus mentioned in the old accounts :

"Pybbylls gathered from Epsam (Epsom) commen, for the pavying of the lyttyll courtt betwexte the quenes lowng gallary and the close tennys play at id. the lode.' Returning westward the whole length of the lane, and remark

ing here and there the quaint little picturesque bits of the old building-and chimneys, "windpipes of good hospitalitie," to fireplaces large enough to roast oxen whole-you will arrive again at the western entrance.

Offices of Wolsey's Palace.

In these parts of the building were located, doubtless, the "offices" for Wolsey's princely establishment. The notices which George Cavendish, his gentleman-usher, makes of Wolsey's officers. enable us to form some idea of the extent of accommo

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dation which must have been needed. A steward, who was a priest, presided over one board in the hall, a treasurer over another, and a comptroller over a third. In his hall-kitchen there were two clerks, a comptroller, and surveyor of the dresser, clerk for the spicery, twelve turnspits, four scullery-men, two yeomen of the pastry; his master-cook, dressed in velvet or satin, decorated with a gold chain, and under him were two cooks and assistants. There were proper officers for the larder, the scullery, buttery, ewry, cellar, chandry, wafery, dormitory, wardrobe, laundry, bake-house, wood-yard, barn, gate, barge, stables,besides chamberlains, vice-chamberlains, and ushers, gentlemen waiters, yeomen waiters, cupbearers, carvers, doctors, and chaplains, clerks, secretaries, &c., a suite which numbered nearly a thousand persons. Eight tables were provided daily for the chamberlains and gentlemen officers; one for young lords, and another for the sons of gentlemen.

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"The cardinal's house," continues Cavendish, who is probably speaking in common of Wolsey's palaces of York Place, Whitehall, and of Hampton, was resorted to, like a king's house, by noblemen and gentlemen, and such pleasures were here devised for the king's delight as could be invented or imagined. Banquets set with masquers and mummers in such costly manner that it was glorious to behold; there wanted no damsels meet to dance with the masquers, or to garnish the place for the time with variety of other pastimes. Then there were divers kinds of music, and many choice men and women singers appointed to sing, who had excellent voices."

Having examined the tasteful oriel window of the gateway, we may pass through the little portal, and enter the

First Courtyard of Wolsey's Palace.

EEP crimsoned brick courts like this, always cosy in our not over-warm climate, seem to us the outward types of an old English hospitality nearly extinct; it seems impossible to associate in-door comfort with houses, being awkward adaptations of temples and porticoes, suitable for sunny climes, whose grandeur is on the outside. Excepting a few modern square chimneys, which the more decorated and characteristic chimney-shafts of the Tudor age have now all but supplanted, an incongruous campanile above the clock on the opposite gateway, which might well be spared, and a pavement instead of a grass plat, we are beholding this part of the building pretty much as it was when Wolsey was accustomed to lodge his 300 visitors in silken beds within its walls. This