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Yet hens of Guinea full as good I hold,
Except you eat the feathers green and gold.
Of carps and mullets why prefer the great,
(Tho' cut in pieces ere my Lord can eat,)
Yet for small turbots such esteem profess?
Because God made these large, the other less.
Oldfield with more than harpy throat endu❜d,
Cries, "Send me, Gods! a whole hog barbecu'd!”
Oh blast it, south winds! till a stench exhale
Rank as the ripeness of a rabbit's tail.
By what criterion do ye eat, d'ye think,
If this is priz'd for sweetness, that for stink?
When the tir'd glutton labours through a treat,
He finds no relish in the sweetest meat,

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He calls for something bitter, something sour,
And the rich feast concludes extremely poor:
Cheap eggs, and herbs, and olives still we see ;
Thus much is left of old simplicity!
The robin-red-breast till of late had rest,

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And children sacred held a martin's nest,

Till Becaficos sold so dev'lish dear

To one that was, or would have been, a peer.

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Let me extol a cat, on oysters fed,

I'll have a party at the Bedford-head;

Or

VER. 25. Oldfield] This eminent glutton ran through a fortune of fifteen hundred pounds a-year in the simple luxury of good eating.

VER. 26. Hog barbecu'd, &c.] A West Indian term of gluttony; a hog roasted whole, stuffed with spice, and basted with Madeira wine.

Or e'en to crack live crawfish recommend ;
I'd never doubt at court to make a friend.

'Tis yet in vain, I own, to keep a pother
About one vice, and fall into the other:
Between excess and famine lies a mean;
Plain, but not sordid; tho' not splendid, clean.
Avidien, or his wife, (no matter which,
For him you'll call a dog, and her a bitch,)
Sell their presented partridges, and fruits,
And humbly live on rabbits and on roots:

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One half-pint bottle serves them both to dine,

And is at once their vinegar and wine.

But on some lucky day (as when they found

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A lost bank-bill, or heard their son was drown'd)

At such a feast, old vinegar to spare,

Is what two souls so gen'rous cannot bear :
Oil, tho' it stink, they drop by drop impart,
But sowse the cabbage with a bounteous heart.

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He knows to live, who keeps the middle state, And neither leans on this side, nor on that Nor stops, for one bad cork, his butler's pay, Swears, like Albutius, a good cook away; Nor lets, like Nævius, ev'ry error pass, The musty wine, foul cloth, or greasy glass. Now hear what blessings temperance can bring : (Thus said our friend, and what he said I sing:)

VER. 42. Badford-head;] A famous eating-house.

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First

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First health: the stomach (cramm'd from ev'ry dish,
A tomb of boil'd and roast, and flesh and fish,
Where bile, and wind, and phlegm, and acid jar,
And all the man is one intestine war)
Remembers oft the school-boy's simple fare,
The temp❜rate sleeps, and spirits light as air.
How pale, each worshipful and rev'rend guest
Rise from a clergy, or a city feast!
What life in all that ample body, say?
What heav'nly particle inspires the clay?
The soul subsides, and wickedly inclines
To seem but mortal, ev'n in sound divines.

On morning wings how active springs the mind.

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That leaves the load of yesterday behind?

How easy ev'ry labour it pursues?

How coming to the poet ev'ry muse ?

Not but we may exceed, some holy time,

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Or tir'd in search of truth, or search of rhyme;
Ill health some just indulgence may engage,
And more the sickness of long life, old age:
For fainting age what cordial drop remains,
If our intemp❜rate youth the vessel drains?

Our fathers prais'd rank ven'son. You suppose
Perhaps, young men ! our fathers had no nose.
Not so a buck was then a week's repast,
And 'twas their point, I ween, to make it last;
More pleas'd to keep it till their friends could come,
Than eat the sweetest by themselves at home.

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Why

Why had not I in those good times my birth,
Ere coxcomb-pies or coxcombs were on earth?
Unworthy he, the voice of fame to hear,
That sweetest music to an honest ear,
(For 'faith, Lord, Fanny! you are in the wrong,
The world's good word is better than a song,)
Who has not learn'd, fresh sturgeon and ham-pie
Are no rewards for want, and infamy!
When luxury has lick'd up all thy pelf,
Curs'd by thy neighbours, thy trustees, thyself,
To friends, to fortune, to mankind a shame,
Think how posterity will treat thy name;
And buy a rope, that future times may tell
Thou hast at least bestow'd one penny well.

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"Right," cries His Lordship, "for a rogue in need

"To have a taste, is insolence indeed :

"In me 'tis noble, suits my birth and state,
"My wealth unwieldy, and my heap too great."
Then, like the sun, let bounty spread her ray,
And shine that superfluity away.

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Oh impudence of wealth! with all thy store,
How dar'st thou let one worthy man be poor?
Shall half the new-built churches round thee fall?
Make keys, build bridges, or repair Whitehall:

Or to thy country let that heap be lent,
As M**o's was, but not at five per cent.

VER. 122. As M**o's was,] Duke of Marlborough.

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Who

Who thinks that fortune cannot change her mind, Prepares a dreadful jest for all mankind.

And who stands safest ? tell me, is it he
That spreads and swells in puff'd prosperity,
Or blest with little, whose preventing care
In peace provides fit arms against a war?

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Thus BETHEL spoke, who always speaks his

thought,

And always thinks the very thing he ought:

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His equal mind I copy what I can,

And as I love, would imitate the man,

In South-Sea days not happier, when surmis'd

The lord of thousands, than if now excis'd;

In forest planted by a father's hand,

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Than in five acres now of rented land.
Content with little, I can piddle here

On brocoli and mutton, round the year;

But ancient friends (tho' poor, or out of play)
That touch my bell, I cannot turn away.

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'Tis true, no turbots dignify my boards,

But gudgeons, flounders, what my Thames affords :
To Hounslow-heath I point, and Bansted-down,
Thence comes your mutton, and these chicks my own;
From yon old walnut-tree a show'r shall fall
And grapes, long lingʼring on my only wall,
And figs from standard and espalier join

The dev'l is in you if you cannot dine;

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Then cheerful healths, (your mistress shall have place,) And, what's more rare, a poet shall say grace.

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Fortune

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