3a. Organization, 1923... 4. Materials used, 1904-1921. 1 1 1 1 t t 1 5. Canadian imports from the United States and percentage which 6. Imports for consumption, 1891–1924. 7. Imports for consumption, by articles, 1919–1924 8. Rates of duty, 1883-1922. Narrow fabrics-Fabrics with fast edges not exceeding 12 inches in width, etc.: 9. Equipment, 1914-1919_ 10. Canadian imports from the United States, 1919-1924. 11. Imports for consumption, 1918–1924. 12. Bandings, beltings, bindings, etc.—Imports for consumption, 1891-1924__ Garters, suspenders, and braces: 13. Geographical distribution of industry, 1909–1921. 14. Organization and equipment, 1909-1923_ 15. Exports, 1918-1923. 16. Imports for consumption, 1918-1924. Cords, tassels, and cords and tassels: 17. Imports for consumption, 1918-1924_. t Spindle banding; lamp, stove, and candle wicking, etc.: 18. Imports for consumption, 1895–1924_ Boot, shoe, and corset lacings: 19. Imports for consumption, 1891-1924__ Loom harness, healds, and collets: 20. Imports for consumption, 1898–1924Labels for garments or other articles: 21. Imports for consumption, 1898-1924..... Belting for machinery: 22. Imports for consumption, 1910-1924-.-. 24. Total braids, distributed according to material used—Imports Chart Articles specially mentioned in each tariff act, 1883–1922_. COTTON SMALL WARES TARIFF ACT OF SEPTEMBER 21, 1922 Par. 913. Fabrics with fast edges not exceeding 12 inches in width, and articles made therefrom; tubings, garters, suspenders, braces, cords, tassels, and cords and tassels; all the foregoing composed wholly or in chief value of cotton or of cotton and india rubber, and not specially provided for, 35 per centum ad valorem; spindle banding, and lamp, stove, or candle wicking, made of cotton or other vegetable fiber, 10 cents per pound and 121⁄2 per centum ad valorem; boot, shoe, or corset lacings, made of cotton or other vegetable fiber, 15 cents per pound and 20 per centum ad valorem; loom harness, healds, and collets, made wholly or in chief value of cotton or other vegetable fiber, 25 cents per pound and 25 per centum ad valorem; labels for garments or other articles, composed of cotton or other vegetable fiber, 50 per centum ad valorem; belting, for machinery, composed wholly or in chief value of cotton or other vegetable fiber, or cotton or other vegetable fiber and india rubber, 30 per centum ad valorem. SUMMARY DESCRIPTION Paragraph 913 is known as the small wares paragraph of the cotton schedule of the act of 1922. Although confined mainly to fabrics with fast edges, not exceeding 12 inches in width, which are generally the products of narrow-ware looms, it includes certain types of machine belting that may be woven on wide or fly-shuttle looms, and a few articles made by braiding or by twisting. Fabrics, with fast edges, not exceeding 12 inches in width is an inclusive term used to distinguish narrow-woven fabrics from cloth, which is over 12 inches in width. Such narrow wares include, without specific mention, bandings, beltings, bindings, ribbons, strappings, tapes, webbings, etc. Articles made therefrom include bands, belts, brake linings, girths, gun slings, straps, webs, etc. Tubings are tubular woven products of the narrow-ware loom, and are used in stem work in the manufacture of artificial flowers; also as bone casings in corsets, and for other purposes. Garters, suspenders, and braces are made from narrow wares, mainly from elastic and nonelastic webbings. Some braided elastics are also used. Cords are made by braiding, or by cabling or twisting together two, three, or more strands or threads. Tassels are pendant ornaments terminating in tufts of loose strands or threads, matching the cords to which they are to be attached. Cords and tassels are combinations of cords and tassels. Spindle banding is used on spinning, spooling, and twisting frames for transmitting power to the spindles. One type is made by twisting together strands of yarn or hard roving; another by braiding, while still others coming largely into use are woven on narrow-ware looms in the form of tape. Lamp, stove, and candle wickings are made of cotton. For candle wicking, strands of cotton yarn are twisted or braided together 107634-25-1-7-2 1 Lamp and stove wicking is made on braiding machines or woven on narrow-ware looms. Boot, shoe, and corset lacings may be round, flat, or tubular, and are generally produced on braiding machines. Loom harness consists of a number of healds, which are individual units of twine, assembled on frames and used on looms in the process of weaving, each heald containing an eye and carrying one thread, or unit, of the warp. The harness sustains the warp properly in the loom, and through it the shedding motion is transmitted to the warp. Collets are cords used on the loom for holding the harness in position. Labels for garments or other articles are woven on narrow-ware or ribbon looms with Jacquard attachments. Belting for machinery includes narrow textile woven beltings produced on narrow-ware looms and wide textile belts woven on heavy fly-shuttle looms. They are woven in different plies and weights, depending upon the intended use. Most of these woven belts are subsequently treated to render them waterproof or to improve their wearing qualities. Some are made by cutting, folding, and stitching together several plies of cotton canvas, duck, or twill. One type, known as "rubber belting," is made by impregnating canvas, duck, or twill cotton cloth with india rubber, folding and stitching, calendering between hot rollers under pressure, and vulcanizing. Another type is treated in the same manner with balata gum, but not vulcanized. Imports of cotton transmission rope are also classed as belting for machinery. THE DOMESTIC INDUSTRY History. Little is known as to the early history of the domestic cotton small-wares industry. The output was not separately recorded by the census prior to 1899. It is probable that early manufacturing was confined to elementary staple articles, such as plain tapes, and was begun by plants making yarns and cloth. As the industry developed, separate plants were built and a greater variety of articles produced. With the introduction of mercerized cotton yarns, artificial silk, and the highly developed manufacture of elastic webbings, some lines of narrow woven fabrics are now as much subject to fashion as are wide fabrics, thousands of new designs being introduced each year. The development of the manufacture of small wares as an industry, by plants engaged primarily in their production, has kept pace with that of staple textiles. In the several States manufacturing small wares in appreciable amounts, plants were established in the following chronological order: Rhode Island, 1824, 1864, 1873, 1883, 1885. Maryland, 1825, 1848. Pennsylvania, 1827, 1888, 1893. Connecticut, 1834, 1837, 1856, 1914. Massachusetts, 1854, 1860, 1863, 1865, 1870, 1876. New York, 1867. Ohio, 1875, 1897. New Jersey, 1883, 1886, 1890, 1892, 1893, Indiana, 1884, Michigan, 1891. Georgia and Illinois, one each in the year 1896. North Carolina, 1897. Oklahoma, 1906. Production. The census classification of small wares does not coincide with the group of articles listed in what is known as the small-wares paragraph" in import statistics, the latter being wider in scope than the former. Small wares, specified as such by the census, were valued at $11,525,033 in 1914, $40,896,835 in 1919, and $26,061,193 in 1921. In addition there were produced suspenders, garters, and elastic woven goods to the value of $24,432,753 in 1914, $60,774,652 in 1919, and $44,935,467 in 1921; rubber belting to the value of $22,436,242 in 1919, and $13,068,798 in 1921. While hose is not included in the small-wares paragraph, the combined value of belting and hose other than leather and rubber was $19,176,277 in 1919 and $6,390,498 in 1921. Of the latter amount, $3,288,708 was recorded as the value of woven belting. The high values shown for 1919 are due to the enhanced prices then prevailing rather than to increase in volume of output. TABLE 1.-Cotton small-wares industry-Production, census years 1904–1921 ! In addition, cotton small wares to the value of $1, 572, 120 in 1921, and $5,735,069 in 1919, were reported by establishments engaged in other branches of the cotton-manufactures industry, or in other industries. Of these amounts, $933,997, in 1921, and $4,182,888 in 1919, represent the value of cotton small-wares reported by establishments classified in the cotton-goods branch of this industry. 2 Does not include spindle banding to the value of $424,000 not reported in yards. Not reported in 1919. 4 In 1919 included in “All other products.' Including that used in the further process of manufacture. Owing to changes in the census classification of the cotton smallwares industry, the 1923 data are not comparable with those for previous years. The following tabulation of preliminary figures shows the value of articles grouped as small wares in 1923: Belting. TABLE 1a.—Cotton small-wares industry-Production, 1923 [Preliminary figures] Total value of products___ Elastic webbing All other woven cotton small wares. All other cotton small wares... Of the $73,223,566 reported as the value of small wares in 1923, $33,818,643 represented the output of 54 establishments classified in 1921 as manufacturers of "Belting and hose, other than leather and rubber" and "Suspenders, garters, and elastic webbing." Deducting the $33,818,643 from the total reported for small wares gives $39,404,923, a figure which is fairly comparable with the 1921 total of $26,061,193, and which represents an increase of 51.2 per cent. Prior to 1899 the census included the cotton small-wares industry with "cotton goods." The decrease shown from 1909 to 1914 was partly due to the inclusion in the 1909 classification of some establishments engaged in the manufacture of cotton lace, which, in 1914, were assigned to the cotton lace industry. Then, too, a number of large establishments formerly classed in the cotton small-wares industry by 1914 had so changed their products that cotton small wares no longer constituted their product of chief value. The census of 1919 showed a considerable increase, the value of products being then two and a half times greater than in 1914. The increase, however, was due in great measure to the higher prices prevailing in 1919 and is not to be attributed wholly to increased production. A decrease was shown for 1921 as compared with 1919, the value of the 1921 production falling 37.4 per cent below that for 1919. Geographical distribution.-Cotton small wares were first separately recorded in 1899. Table 2 shows, by States, comparative statistics of the domestic industry for the census years 1899 to 1921. The figures in this table include, in addition to the data for articles covered by paragraph 913 of the tariff act of 1922, statistics for certain articles such as fancy braids (Barmen lace) dutiable under other paragraphs. |