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CHAPTER 6.—Imports, EXPORTS, AND Rates of Duty:
Imports of woolens and worsteds...

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PART 2.-PILE FABRICS OF WOOL, MOHAIR, ALPACA, ETC.,

AND MANUFACTURES OF

Text of paragraph 1110 of the act of 1922.

Description_._

Domestic production_

Methods of production.

Imports

Prices

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Rates of duty 1890 to 1922, inclusive

Court and Treasury decisions___

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PART 3.-BLANKETS AND SIMILAR ARTICLES, INCLUDING
CARRIAGE ROBES, AUTOMOBILE ROBES, AND STEAMER
RUGS, MADE OF BLANKETING

Text of paragraph 1111 of the act of 1922

Description_..

Domestic production—

Quantity

Materials used..

Methods of production...

Geographical distribution

Domestic exports-
Imports....

Sources of imports.

Nature of imports..

Competitive conditions_

Tariff history

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Rates of duty 1890 to 1922, inclusive-
Court and Treasury Decisions_

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APPENDIX

STATISTICAL TABLES

1. Summary of the woolen-goods industry of the United States, 1889-1925

2. Wool used in the woolen-goods industry 1879-1919..

4. Quantity and value of woven fabrics produced by the woolen-goods industry, 1914-1925

Page

Table

111

111

3. Quantity and value of materials used in the woolen-goods industry, 1909-1919

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114

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115

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5. Summary of the worsted-goods industry of the United States, 18891925__

6. Wool used in the worsted-goods industry, 1879-1919

7. Quantity and value of materials used in the worsted-goods industry, 1909-1919.

8. Quantity and value of woven fabrics produced by the worsted-goods industry, 1914–1925.

9. Average hours and earnings and classified full-time hours per week of employees in woolen and worsted mills, by occupation and sex, 1910-1926__

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10. Wage changes in the wool manufacturing industry, 1915–1925-
11. Activity of wool spindles in the United States, 1913-1926-
12. Activity of wool looms in the United States, 1913-1926–
13. Total imports for consumption of woolens and worsteds, 1891-1926-
14. Total imports for consumption of woven fabrics of wool, mohair,
alpaca, etc., weighing not over 4 ounces per square yard, 1891–1926-
14A. Imports for consumption of dress goods of wool, mohair, alpaca, etc.,
weighing not over 4 ounces per square yard, 1891-1926-.
14в. Imports for consumption of cotton warp dress goods, weighing not
over 4 ounces per square yard, 1891-1926_

14c. Imports for consumption of dress goods wholly or in chief value of
wool, weighing not over 4 ounces per square yard, 1914–1922...---
14D. Imports for consumption of fabrics made of mohair, alpaca, etc.,
weighing not over 4 ounces per square yard, 1914–1926–
14E. Imports for consumption of wool flannels, weighing not over 4 ounces
per square yard, 1891-1914.......

15. Imports for consumption of fabrics made of wool, mohair, alpaca,
etc., weighing over 4 ounces per square yard, 1891-1926
15A. Imports for consumption of cloths, woolen or worsted, 1891-1926.
15в. Imports for consumption of dress goods made of wool, mohair,
alpaca, etc., weighing over 4 ounces per square yard, 1891-1914--
15c. Imports for consumption of cotton warp dress goods, weighing over
4 ounces per square yard, 1891-1914.

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15D. Imports for consumption of wool blankets, over three yards in length, 1895-1914___.

132

15E. Imports for consumption of wool flannels, weighing over 4 ounces per square yard, 1891-1922__

133

16. Woolens and worsteds; relation of imports and exports to production in census years 1889-1925__

134

17. Percentage, in value, of general imports of woven fabrics of wool imported from the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Belgium, and all other countries, 1891-1925.

134

18. Domestic wools; average annual prices, per pound, in Boston, 1911– 1923...

135

19. Foreign wools; average annual prices, per pound, in Boston, 1911– 1923__

135

20. Domestic woolens and worsteds; average annual prices, per linear yard, of specific fabrics, 1911-1924.

136

21. Domestic woolens and worsteds; average annual prices, per linear yard, by classes, 1911-1924__

138

22. Raw wools, and woolens and worsteds; summary of average annual prices, 1911-1924__

138

23. Pile fabrics of wool or mohair; imports for consumption-Revenue,

1891-1926...

139

24. Manufactures of pile fabrics; imports for consumption-Revenue, 1914-1926

140

Table

25. Domestic production of wool blankets and carriage robes, 1914–192526. Wool blankets, not over 3 yards in length; relation of imports and exports to production in census years 1899-1925-..

27. Wool blankets, not over 3 yards in length; imports for consumption; revenue, 1891–1926_

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CHARTS

Trend of index numbers for wholesale prices of domestic and foreign raw
wools and of domestic woolen and worsted fabrics, also of earnings per
hour in the domestic woolen and worsted industries...
Imports for consumption of woolens and worsteds, 1860-1924.

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Relation of imports and exports to the volume of the domestic produc-
tion of woolens and worsteds in 1919, 1921, and 1923..........
Equivalent ad valorem rates of duty on imports of woolens and worsteds,
1860-1924-

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Duties on wool blankets and on embroideries in the tariff act of 1922_._.

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WOVEN FABRICS OF WOOL

SUMMARY

Scope of report. This report covers woven fabrics of wool, other than floor coverings. It is divided into three parts. Part 1 relates to woolens and worsteds, including cloths, dress goods, flannels, and fabrics made of mohair and alpaca, dutiable under paragraphs 1108 and 1109 of the tariff act of 1922; Part 2 treats pile fabrics of wool and hair, dutiable under paragraph 1110; and Part 3 covers wool blankets and similar articles, dutiable under paragraph 1111.

Raw materials.-The United States production of raw wool in 1925, as estimated by the United States Department of Agriculture, was 301,060,000 pounds, composed of 254,260,000 pounds of fleece wool and 46,800,000 pounds of pulled wool. Australia, the principal woolgrowing country, it is estimated produced 770,000,000 pounds in 1925. Argentina in 1925 outranked the United States as the second largest wool-growing country by a very narrow margin, the clip being estimated at 313,000,000 pounds. Texas is the leading wool-producing State and is followed by Wyoming and Montana.

In the manufacture of woolen and worsted goods, including pile fabrics and blankets, the consumption of wool in the United States has been as follows: i

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The tendency in both the woolen and worsted branches of the industry is to use a smaller proportion of domestic and a larger proportion of foreign wools. (See Tables 2 and 6; pp. 111 and 114.) Since 1899 the worsted branch of the industry has been a much larger wool consumer than the woolen branch.

Approximately 40 per cent of the mohair used is imported; imports are mainly from South Africa and Turkey. Alpaca, vicuna, and camel's hair are entirely of foreign origin. The raw cotton and cotton yarns used by wool manufacturers are mainly of domestic origin.

1 The wool-manufactures group of five industries embraces establishments engaged primarily in the manufacture of (1) woolen goods, (2) worsted goods, (3) wool carpets and rugs, other than rag, (4) wool or hair felt goods, and (5) wool-felt hats. The above figures relate to the wool consumed in the woolen goods and worsted goods industries only.

Domestic production. The production of woolen and worsted woven goods, including pile fabrics and blankets, is recorded by the Bureau of the Census as follows:

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On the basis of a population of 90,691,000 in 1909 and 115,378,000 in 1925, the per capita production of woven fabrics of wool decreased from 6.293 square yards in 1909 to 5.025 in 1925, or 20 per cent. Imports and exports were relatively small so that the decline in domestic consumption was in about the same ratio. This decrease may be attributed to several causes, the chief among which are the use of better grades of fabrics and the increased prices, which compel the consuming public to make its wool garments last longer. Another effect of higher prices has been to shift consumption toward the lighter weight fabrics-a tendency that has been increased by the more general use of steam-heated houses. This is particularly manifest in the substitution of worsted for woolen suitings, and in the substitution of cotton and silk for wool underwear.

The worsted branch of the industry is much larger and more important than the woolen. In 1925, there were 503 woolen mills, with 67,056 wage earners, whose products were valued at $361,524,034. In the same year, 329 worsted mills, employing 98,168 wage earners, manufactured goods valued at $596,266,304. The foregoing figures are for woven fabrics including blankets and pile fabrics, and also such products as tops, yarn, noils, and wool waste made for sale. In 1923, there were 105 woolen and 156 worsted mills whose individual output exceeded $1,000,000.

The reports of idle machinery, in the wool manufacturing industry as a whole, under the operation of the tariff act of 1922 are here presented for the month of October, 1922–1926.

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