The value increased up to and including 1914 when it amounted to $2,185,941. Since then there has been a decrease and in 1918 they amounted to $1,728,337, of which $1,208,567 came from France. In 1919, calendar year, the imports increased to $6,330,909, and for 1920, to $12,544,581. This appears to confirm the opinion of manufacturers and importers that imports would increase with the resumption of normal conditions. The domestic manufacturers are not equipped to produce sufficient to meet normal requirements, and the foreign establishments appear to have the advantage both in the cost of production and the quality of the products. Competitive conditions. The manufacture requires a great deal of handwork, and this is the principal reason why it has not developed in the United States. It is the consensus of opinion that under present industrial conditions the domestic manufacturers can not compete successfully with the foreign establishments. The industry in foreign countries, especially in Italy, Germany, Austria, and France has the advantage of an old organization. Some of the processes are carried on in the homes of the operators and the work is passed on to succeeding generations. Since 1914 machinery has been used to some extent in the United States, and will possibly enable the domestic manufacturer to compete in some lines. Beads and bead ornaments-Imports by countries (fiscal years). Beads and bead ornaments—Imports for consumption-Revenue. [Beads and spangles of all kinds, not threaded or strung, or strung loosely on thread for facility in transpor tation only.] 1 Includes imports from Cuba and Philippine Islands, which, however, have been negligible. 2 Calendar year. Beads and bead ornaments-Imports for consumption—Revenue. [Curtains and other articles not embroilered or appliqué1, n. s. p. f., composed wholly or in chief value of beads or spangles made of glass or paste, gelatin, metal, or other material.1] 8 From Oct. 4, 1913, to July 1, 1914. 1 Fabrics, nets or nettings, laces, embroideries, galloons, wearing apparel, ornaments, trimmings curtains, fringes, and other articles, n. s. p.f. composed wholly or in part of beads, or spangles made of glass or paste, gelatin, metal, or other material, but not composed in part of wool. (Acts of 1897 and 1909.) 2 From July 1 to Oct. 4, 1913. 4 Calendar year. Curtains and other articles of beads or spangles n. s. p. f.-Rates of duty. as 396 445 1883 1897 408 421 1913 333 Tariff classification or description. Beads and bead ornaments of all kinds, except amber....... * * * manufactures known commercially as beads, beaded or * ** * fabrics, nets or nettings, laces, embroideries, galloons, * * * fabrics, nets or nettings, laces, embroideries, galloons, * * curtains, and other articles not embroidered nor ap- COURT AND TREASURY DECISIONS. * * Curtains composed in chief value of glass or rice paste beads, strung on cotton threads suspended from a horizontal bar or rod, are dutiable " curtains * * * composed wholly or in chief value of beads" under this paragraph. The language "curtains, and other articles, not embroidered nor appliquéd" in this paragraph does not exclude such articles as are not susceptible of being embroidered or appliquéd. (United States v. Morimura, 7 Ct. Cust. Appls., 285, of 1916.) Curtains of Job's-tear seeds are dutiable by similitude to curtains of beads under this paragraph. (T. D. 36656, of 1916.). Artificial flowers, leaves, and stems made of beads with the aid of wires and silk thread, having the size, form, color, and outline of natural flowers, are dutiable under paragraph 347 as "artificial and ornamental * leaves, flowers, and stems, or parts thereof, of whatever material composed," rather than as beaded articles under this paragraph. (United States v. American Bead Co., 9 Ct. Cust. Appls., 27, of 1918.) Ornaments and trimmings consisting of beads on a net foundation, beads chief value, are more specifically provided for under this paragraph as articles not appliquéd, composed wholly or in chief value of beads, than under paragraph 358 as ornaments or trimmings of whatever yarns, threads, or filaments composed. An article is appliquéd within the tariff. sense when it is ornamented with a pattern or design independently fabricated. (Loewenthal v. United States, 6 Ct. Cust. Appls., 209, of 1913.) Silk netting ornamented with beads and spangles, the netting being more valuable than either and less valuable than both, is dutiable as "composed wholly or in chief value of beads or spangles under this paragraph and not as "trimmings * * * of whatever yarns, threads, or filaments composed" under paragraph 358. (United States v. Gavin, 7 Ct. Cust. Appls., 292, of 1916.) Necklaces with or without base metal clasps, in chief value of beads, the beads being made of wood, gelatin, or paste and china or colored glass, 1 some in imitation of jet and amber, are dutiable as articles in chief value of beads under this paragraph and not as jewelry under paragraph 356. (American Bead Co. v. United States, 7 Ct. Cust. Appls., 18, of 1916.) Necklaces substantially of imitation jet beads with imitation jet pendants are not dutiable as jewelry under paragraph 356, but as beaded articles under this paragraph. (Wolff & Co. v. United States, 7 Ct. Cust. Appls., 156, of 1916.) Beaded necklaces are not necessarily jewelry, and articles of personal adornment only are not necessarily jewelry. The jewelry paragraph 448 of the tariff act of 1909 embraced imitation amber; the jewelry paragraph, 356 in the tariff act of 1913 does not. (American Bead Co. v. United States, 7 Ct. Cust. Appls., 161, of 1916.) Necklaces in chief value of paste beads are not dutiable as jewelry under paragraph 356, but as manufactures in chief value of paste beads under this paragraph. (Bloomingdale v. United States, 8 Ct. Cust. Appls., 314, of 1918.) Imitation pearl beads strung temporarily upon flimsy cotton strings selected and graded as to size so that the beads graduate from the largest in the center to the smallest at either end, are dutiable as "imitation pearl beads strung loosely on thread for facility in transportation only" and not as articles of beads under this paragraph. However useful for trade purposes may be the selecting and grading, the fact remains that the stringing was done for facility in transportation only, as the beads have to be restrung more durably. and fitted with clasps before being practical for use as chains or necklaces. (Lorsch v. United States, 8 Ct. Cust. Appls., 246, of 1918.) * * * Beads loosely strung without clasps were held to come within paragraph 333 of the act of 1913. (Abstract 43740.) Necklaces made of wax filled glass imitation pearl beads, permanently strung and fitted with metal clasps and imitation pearl pendants, are classable as jewelry under paragraph 356 and not as articles or beads under paragraph 333. (United States v. Woolworth Co., 10 Ct. Cust. Appls.,-; T. D. 38552.) Glass bead girdles valued at more than 20 cents per dozen pieces were held to come within paragraph 333 and not to be dutiable as jewelry. (G. A. 8319, T. D. 38269, of 1920.) Chains, bracelets, hatpins, and necklaces composed in chief value of beads were held to come within paragraph 333. (Abstract 43629.) The following articles were also held under recent decisions to come within paragraph 333: Wooden bead necklaces (Abstract 43758); bone bead necklaces (Abstract 43901); necklaces composed of metal and beads, beads chief value (Abstract 43925); beads of paste composition permanently strung, but without clasps on the string and in appearance simulating a pearl necklace (Abstract 43926); trimmings or ornaments composed of beads, raffia, and cotton, beads chief value (Abstract 43838). But agate rings, of an inch in outside diameter and of an inch in thickness, the opening in each ring being a little more than of an inch in diameter, used as line-guides on fishing rods, were held not to be beads and to be duitable as manufacturers of agate within paragraph 98 of the act of 1913. "Beads" was defined as a little perforated sphere, ball, cylinder, or the like, usually strung on a thread or attached to a fabric for decoration. (G. A. 8356, T. D. 38452.) 16 Rosaries in chief value of beads were held dutiable as articles made of beads under paragraph 333. (United States v. American Express, 8 Ct. Cust. Appls., 157, of 1917.) Coral beads graduated and` tem porarily strung loosely on strings for facility in transportation, suitable for use in the manufacture of jewelry, are not dutiable as beads or articles in chief value of beads under this paragraph, but as 66 coral * * * cut, but not set, and suitable for use in the manufacture of jewelry," under paragraph 357. (United States v. Bartiloro, 9 Ct. Cust. Appls., 180, of 1919.) Coral beads which have been cut to final globular shape, pierced, graded, and temporarily strung in final relation from large to small for use and wear as coral necklaces, were similarly classified. ( nited States v. Bartimoro, 9 Ct. Cust. Appls., 183, of 1919.) Christmas tree ornaments consisting of a star inclosed in a circle 3 inches in diameter, composed of colored and silvered or gilded glass perforated articles strung on metal wires having a pendant composed of similar glass articles strung on red cotton strings, and other articles of similar description, were held properly classified as beaded articles under this paragraph rather than manufactures of blown glass under paragraph 84. (Abstract 42364, of 1918.) (See pars. 167, 356, 359, and 358.) There has been some uncertainty in the interpretation of the tariff rates for beads and spangles. If they are strung loosely for facility in transportation only, the rate is 3 per cent ad valorem, whereas if they are strung ready for use, the rate is 0 per cent ad valorem. It is often difficult to determine into which classification the product falls. Frequently the strands are complete with the exception of the clasp, yet pay the lower rate of duty. Articles in chief value of beads embroidered or appliquéd come within neither this paragraph nor paragraph 3. 8, but under provisions according to the component material of chief value, such as glass. Omission of the words "not embroidered nor appliquéd and" would simplify administration. The classification of necklaces has given rise to much litigation. As a rule they are jewelry when imported strung with a clasp, but when made of imitation jet or amber, or of wood, gelatin, paste, glass, or china, whether with or without clasps, they have been held not to be jewelry. A valuable collection of matched pearls used abroad before acceptance, and imported unstrung, was also held not to be jewelry. The classification of rosaries is also difficult. Three provisions are principally involved, this paragraph, paragraph 167, and paragraph 356. Rosaries having devotional use have been held not to come within paragraph 356, and are dutiable according to the component of chief value. When having a simple metal crucifix, rosaries might be dutiable at 50 per cent under this paragraph, and when having an elaborate crucifix of base metal, at 20 per cent under paragraph 167. JEWELRY AND RELATED ARTICLES AND PARTS THEREOF. SUMMARY. Jewelry is the name given to a large class of articles designed to be worn on the person for purposes of adornment. It is generally made of, or in imitation of, the precious metals. A large number of articles designed to be worn on or carried about the person are classified with jewelry in the tariff. Jewelry articles are luxuries and the domestic consumption fluctuates in a large measure with general industrial conditions. |