Ostrich feathers originate mainly in South Africa and must be imported, since the ostrich industry in the United States is very small. Other feathers and millinery ornaments are also imported in large quantities. As long as America looks to Paris for its styles it is reasonable to assume that imports of flowers and feathers will continue to be large. Improvements in design and execution by American makers will be necessary if the ratio of imports to domestic production is to be reduced.

Domestic exports.-Domestic exports are very small, averaging a little over $300,000 annually since 1910, except in 1913 and 1914, when they were double that amount. Exports of feathers only are given. They went principally to Canada and to the European

countries.

The ostrich industry.-Detailed information regarding the ostrich industry is given in the auxiliary file of this survey, pages 15 to 25. Ostrich farming was first undertaken in South Africa late in the sixties, and grew to large proportions until checked by the war in 1914. In 1913 it was estimated that there were at least 900,000 ostriches in South Africa. In 1913 a pair of the best breeding ostriches easily sold for $5,000 in South Africa, and the prime feathers (perfect white wing feathers from the cock birds) brought from $120 to $140 a pound (about 90 feathers to a pound). An ostrich yields about 11 pounds of feathers annually which, before the war, averaged about $20 to $30 in value. Exports of ostrich feathers from South Africa in 1913 were valued at $14,600,000.

The ostrich industry in the United States began to develop about 1900, when there were about 500 birds in this country. In 1910, according to the Census of Agriculture, there were 5,349 ostriches in the country, of which 4,028 were found in Arizona, 1,082 in California, 147 in Arkansas, and 92 in Florida. According to A. R. Lee, Bureau of Animal Industry, Circular 172, there were 6,100 breeding or feather-producing ostriches in the United States in January, 1910. A pair of breeding birds in this country was valued at about $800.

The war destroyed the feather market. Import restrictions in England and later in the United States, and the lack of shipping space for this trade, caused a practical cessation in the use of ostrich feathers. The number of birds declined rapidly and feathers sold in 1917 in South Africa at the low averge of $2.70 to $3.25 a pound. The number of birds in South Africa was reduced by at least 50 per cent. The industry in the United States was practically abandoned. Mr. Lee now states (April, 1920) that there are at present probably 500 to 600 birds in this country.

The present demand for feathers is again good and the price is fair, so that it may be expected that the industry will soon regain some of the lost ground. In Arizona, however, the farms formerly devoted to ostrich farming are now put to other uses, and doubt is expressed as to whether they will again raise ostriches.

Paris is the center of the artificial flower industry and is looked to for the "style." The Employers' Syndicate includes 500 shops in

'Artificial Flower Makers, 1913, Mary Van Kleeck.

64912-21-N~9———3

its membership, and, in addition to these, Paris contains many small contract shops which are not admitted to the syndicate.

The president of the syndicate estimates the total number of women flower makers working in the shops and at home in Paris and its surrounding districts to be 30,000, while the flower and feather maker's union believes that there are 28,000 workers in the trade, of whom 3,000 are men and 25,000 women. Of these women, 15,000, the union estimates, work at home and 10,000 work in shops. These figures show that probably more than twice as many women are employed in the artificial-flower industry in Paris as in shops and home work in New York.

Except in exclusive shops, where it is carried on as an art, the making flowers in Paris has become similar to that in New York. The demand for quantity production has replaced the more artistic product, which required a great deal of time and was costly. A number of hours might be spent by one person on a single fine flower. Seasonal unemployment is similar to that in New York, although not so long in duration. Wages varied from $14 a week for the best flowers to about $5 per week for the cheaper flowers, with many workers earning less than $5. It does not appear that there was much difference in the average wages paid in New York and Paris. The wages earned by home workers were also about the same.

The above comments on the artificial-flower industry apply also to the shops working with feathers, some of the shops working on both flowers and feathers. The demands of the styles and 'seasons determine largely the output of the shops.

London is the principal feather market of the world, and consequently many of the imports into the United States come from England. This does not indicate that they are of English production. Ostrich feathers originate in South Africa. Imports of manufactured feathers come principally from France, and other millinery ornaments, flowers, fruits, grains, etc., come from Germany and France.

IMPORTS.

Imports of ostrich feathers, crude, reached a total value of $6,252,298 in the fiscal year 1913, coming from England and South Africa, but originating almost wholly in South Africa. The value of imports of this class decreased to $534,921 in 1917.

Imports of other crude feathers and downs amounted to nearly $2,000,000 in 1913, of which $1,299, 928 came from France. England furnished the next largest amount. Some feathers of this class also came from Germany, China, and Hongkong.

The value of imports of manufactured feathers not suitable for millinery purposes averaged about $1,500,000 before the war, about two-thirds of which came from France and about one-third from Germany. The value of this class of feathers has been almost insignificant since 1915.

Imports of millinery ornaments, including feathers, flowers, and fruits, reached a total value of $3,131,972 in 1914, and have not decreased in value as much as the various classes of feathers, the low figure of $1,013,509 having been recorded in 1918. Imports of this class came from France and Germany in almost equal value before the war, but since the war have come almost wholly from France.

The figures for the most important classes of imports for consumption are diagramed on the following page. Curve No. 1 represents the importation of crude or unmanufactured ostrich feathers; Curve No. 2

represents the imports of ornamental flowers, feathers, grains, etc., not specially provided for; Curve No. 3 represents the imports of manufactured ornamental feathers, exclusive of a small amount of manufactures ostrich plumes; and Curve No. 4 represents the imports of crude ornamental feathers for millinery purposes classified as "all other."

It will be seen from the diagram, that the greatest decrease has been in the imports of crude ostrich feathers. Changes of fashion no doubt had something to do with this reduction of imports, but it is clear that the importation of all kinds of millinery ornaments gradually declined until the four classes touched the $500,000 mark in 1918. This figure represents roughly 8, 20, 28, and 30 per cent, respectively, of the imports of the classes of products named above for the peak year of 1913.

Imports by countries for the calendar years 1919 and 1920 indicate that the trade in the two principal classes of flowers and feathers has been on the increase. Ostrich feathers, crude, valued at $2,698,146 in 1919, and $1,088,111 in 1920, were imported, compared with a total of $746,709 in the fiscal year 1918. The class of millinery ornaments, which consists principally of artificial flowers, fruits, etc., showed an increase of $842,730 over the fiscal year 1918, or a total value of $1,856,239 for the calendar year 1919, of which $1,717,495 came from France. For 1920 the total increased to $3,270,257.

PRICES.

The number of varieties of millinery ornaments is so great and the style changes so frequently that it is not considered of much value to quote prices. Imported and domestic articles are also rarely directly comparable. Many of the smaller flowers, such as forget-me-nots and very small roses, requiring a great deal of painstaking hand labor, are practically not made in this country, so that imports frequently are supplementary and not competitive. Furthermore, articles which may be competitive are difficult to compare, because of variation in color or shade, or material and workmanship.

The following prices are given merely as a suggestion of the range of prices on some more standard articles (wholesale prices):

Domestic wreaths, mixed-flowers, fruits, grasses, $6 to $48 a dozen; imported wreaths, $6 up. Pansies, imported, small, 7 in bunch, $12 a dozen bunches; pansies, imported, large, 5 in a bunch, $15 a dozen bunches. Violets, domestic and imported, $13.50 a dozen bunches. Roses, from $3 a dozen bunches for little June roses, to $7.50 and up a dozen for larger roses. A good quality rose of fair size usually costs from $12 to $24 a dozen, although much higher prices prevail for the finest quality.

Forget-me-nots, imported only, $3 a dozen bunches.

Leaves (foliage), $3 to $4.50 and up, a dozen bunches.

Ostrich feathers range in price from $6 to $60 per dozen at the present time. All kinds of imitation feathers are made, since the prohibition of imports of the feathers and plumes of wild birds.

The price of superior white goose feathers in 1920 (Chinese) was 55 cents a pound, more than double what it was in 1915. This price is c. i. f., New York, less duty. Superior Szechuan duck feathers (Chinese), cost 13 cents a pound in 1915 and in 1920 cost 35 cents, c. i. f., New York.

TARIFF HISTORY.

The act of 1894 imposed a duty of 35 per cent ad valorem on feathers, flowers, fruits, etc., when suitable for millinery ornaments, and also including quilts and manufactures of down. Feathers and downs for beds and crude feathers and downs of all kinds were placed on the free list.

The act of 1897 assessed crude feathers and downs at 15 per cent ad valorem, and manufactured flowers and feathers and millinery ornaments of all kinds at 50 per cent ad valorem.

The act of 1909 raised these rates to 20 per cent and 60 per cent ad valorem, respectively.

The act of 1913 retained the rates of 20 per cent for crude feathers and created a new class feathers manufactured but not suitable for millinery ornaments-at 40 per cent. The rate on artificial and ornamental feathers and other millinery ornaments remained at 60 per cent ad valorem. The act of 1913 also prohibited the importation of aigrettes and the feathers of wild birds, except for scientific or educational purposes.

COMPETITIVE CONDITIONS AND TARIFF CONSIDERATIONS.

Salesrooms of dealers in flowers and feathers appeared to have quite large stocks of imported flowers in the spring of 1920, but

retailers were not heavily stocked with imported goods. Dealers did not think that there had been a dumping of goods as had been anticipated; in fact, there is no indication of an oversupply. Buyers appear anxious to get imported flowers and are going abroad for thêm

While American producers have improved the quality and style of their output since the beginning of the war, it is not at all certain that the improvement has been such as to permanently secure to them a larger share of the trade than before the war.

The American manufacturer faces the same labor problems as before the war; that is, labor will not remain permanently in the trade, wages are higher than formerly, and in addition, the cheap home labor is being eliminated to some extent. While home labor still exists, it is said to be higher priced in proportion to factory labor than before the war, because there are so many opportunities to earn better wages.

It has been commonly recognized in the trade that style and quality of workmanship are controlling factors in this industry and that cost of production and price are relatively less important factors. Until the American manufacturers create superior or more popular styles and turn out workmanship of equally high quality, the demand for imported flowers will probably persist whether the duty is high or low. The American manufacturer will probably never attempt to make the small flowers requiring so much patient hand labor.

The dependence of American fashions on foreign styles will also continue to influence the demand for imported goods. While conditions abroad are very unsettled and prices have been advancing materially, still it appears quite certain that the demand for imported flowers and feathers will be great and the competition from abroad will again become keen.

The domestic supply of common feathers for beds and pillows does not meet the demand

STATISTICAL TABLES.

Feathers, artificial flowers, and millinery ornaments -Production in United States.

[From Federal census.]

!

1 The statistics for artificial flowers and feathers and plumes are combined in this table. They are separately stated by States in the two tables following.