wool hose continually, as workmen who are exposed to the weather and golfers, but beyond these more or less staple types, fad, or fashion governs the demand. At the present time there is a revival of the use of wool hosiery both for men and for women, partly owing to the increase in out-of-door life and the consequent necessity for warmer clothing that will not hamper freedom of movement, partly to the prevalence of sport clothes for street wear, and to some extent to the fashion for wearing low shoes throughout the year.

Production figures are separately stated for wool and merino hosiery, but since one industry produces both, the sum of the two is compared with imports which include hosiery "composed wholly or in chief value of wool." All-wool and merino represented 12 per cent of the total quantity of all kinds of hosiery manufactured in the United States in 1899, 11 per cent in 1904, 8 per cent in 1909, 7 per cent in 1914, and only 6 per cent in 1919. Silk and artificial silk gain in importance at each census. The production of cotton hosiery decreased from 1914 to 1919. The combined production of all-wool and merino hosiery amounted to 5,045,127 dozen pairs in 1914 and to 5,240,000 dozen pairs in 1919, an increase of nearly 4 per cent. The ratio of all-wool to merino hosiery was as 3 to 2 in 1899, but in 1919 it was as 1 to 4. The production of all-wool hosiery has shown an actual as well as a relative decrease at each census since 1904. In merino hosiery, on the other hand, there has been an actual quantitative increase. (Table 6.)

Domestic exports. Since domestic exports of wool hosiery are not separately stated only incomplete data can be obtained by an examination of import statistics of other countries. Exports of cotton and artificial silk hosiery are widely distributed, no one or two countries taking preponderating quantities. The same is probably true of wool hosiery, though to a somewhat less extent because of climatic limitations. Canada would seem to be our most favorable foreign market, on account of proximity and climate, but wool hosiery is the most important branch of the industry in Great Britain and British goods are accorded a preferential tariff rate in Canada. In 1918 Canada imported a total of wool hosiery valued at $913,643 of which $118,804 came from the United States; in 1920 out of a total importation valued at $1,146,065, the United States supplied $172,943. The largest imports of wool hosiery into Canada from the United States were $225,777 and $327,530 in 1916 and 1917 respectively, when imports from the United Kingdom were smaller than usual. During the war some wool hosiery was sent to the United Kingdom, but the amount dwindled from 96,105 dozen pairs in 1915 to 8 dozen pairs in 1918. French statistics do not show hosiery separately, but wool knit goods other than gloves, fabrics, and ornamented articles imported into France from the United States in 1917 (the last year available), amounted to over 2 million dollars in value. This market also is probably temporary, as total imports into France of this class of goods in 1913 were valued at only a little over $240,000.

5

The latest Canadian statistics (1919) show that the production of woolen and worsted hosiery amounted to 465,276 dozen pairs, valued

• Commerce Reports, Aug. 2, 1920, p. 615.

at $3,238,549, and of merino, 485,605 dozen pairs valued at $2,313,672 -a total of 950,881 dozen pairs, valued at $5,552,221. The quantity produced in 1919 was almost 19 per cent less than in 1918. No other recent foreign production statistics are available but export statistics of the principal producing countries are in large measure indicative of foreign production. England is one of the largest exporters of wool hosiery, averaging annually over 2 million dozen pairs, valued at about $5,000,000. Quantities exported were less in 1917 and 1918 than in the three preceding years but this decrease was likely the result of conditions within the country-for example a greater demand for military use and restrictions on exports-rather than international competition.

Exports from the United Kingdom for 1920 were 2,706,765 dozen pairs, which exceeded exports for 1913; there was a falling off in foreign trade in 1921, but exports for the first six months of 1922 show a return to a pre-war basis amounting to 1,498,914 dozen pairs.

In 1913 France exported wool knit goods other than gloves, fabrics, and ornamented articles to the value of 1 million dollars, but only a little over million dollars in 1917. A French official publication without giving any figures, stated that even before the war "the wool knit goods industry was constantly losing ground." German exports of wool knit garments, other than underwear, cut or shaped in manufacture amounted to about $4,000,000 in 1913. Exports of wool hosiery from Switzerland were valued at about $4,000 in 1913 and at about $150,000 in 1919.7

IMPORTS.

The imports of wool and part wool hosiery into the United States amounted to 70,053 dozen pairs, valued at $168,877 in 1915, the first full year in which stated, and 415,900 dozen pairs valued at $2,513,958 in 1921. The average unit values rose from $2.41 in 1915 to $8.08 in 1920. Although these figures show an increase in the quantity imported of over 100 per cent, foreign goods supply but a small part of the domestic market, amounting in 1921 to only 8 per cent of the American output of 1919 and to a less percentage of the present production, as the manufacture of wool hosiery has increased since the last census. However, statistics show that the trend is toward larger importations. Imports in 1918 were above normal, amounting to 426,061 dozen pairs, valued at $2,187,217. The unusual quantities imported in that year were probably for the use of the Army and Navy. About the same time, however, the use of woolen hose by women became an established fashion and this line of goods is likely to continue in popularity.

PRICES.

8

The War Industries Board price bulletin on wool products gives quotations on men's seamless wool half hose from 1913 to 1918. These sold wholesale at $1.85 per dozen in 1913 and at $4.08, in 1918.

• Rapport Général sur L'Industrie Française, Ministère du Commerce, 1919.

'L'Exportateur Suisse, periodical, March, 1920.

* Of this amount 7,417 dozen pairs, valued at $37,557, were imported by the Government "free of duty."

TARIFF HISTORY.

Wool hose were not mentioned in any tariff act prior to 1913, when rates of 20, 30, and 40 per cent were levied. Under previous acts hosiery was covered by wearing apparel provisions.

The emergency tariff act of May 27, 1921, placed a compensatory duty of 45 cents a pound on all manufactures of wool. Most of the wool hosiery imported was valued at over $1.20 a pound, and therefore paid 40 per cent ad valorem plus the compensatory, which was equivalent to an addition of about 15 per cent ad valorem.

In the act of 1922, paragraph 1114, wool hosiery is divided into two value classifications. Hosiery valued at not over $1.75 per dozen pairs is dutiable at 36 cents per pound and 35 per cent ad valorem; higher priced hosiery is dutiable at 45 cents per pound and 50 per cent ad valorem.

COMPETITIVE CONDITIONS.

Domestic manufacturers, under the tariff of 1913, apparently enjoyed equal opportunity with their foreign competitors in equipment and material. About one-fifth of the wool consumed by the knit-goods industry in 1914 was imported, but this is not necessarily a disadvantage. The market prices for the raw material (wool) in England and the United States are by virtue of the admission of American buyers into the London market and of the free import of wool into this country on practically the same basis. The American purchaser has something of an advantage in the London market by reason of the exchange situation and has been able at times to outbid his English competitor."

The additional duty on raw wool and wool yarns under the emergency tariff act made the material costs of the American knit goods manufacturer somewhat greater than those of his foreign competitor. This disadvantage was offset in the domestic market by a compensatory duty on wool knit goods, but in export trade it was a definite handicap. The results of the emergency tariff on raw wool, especially of the medium and coarser grades, were not immediately apparent because they were gradual and because large stocks of these wools, which it would take a considerable period to consume, were on hand in May, 1921, when the emergency tariff act was passed.

As regards labor cost and marketing, the benefit probably lies with the European producer. Wages, however, have considerably increased in England, the chief producer of wool hosiery. European manufacturers of wool hosiery have less risk than the American as they can rely upon a steadier market for their output in north European countries, where wool hosiery is more generally and constantly

worn.

Although very small amounts of wool knit goods have been imported from Germany in the past, American manufacturers anticipate competition from that source.

• A Survey of the British Wool Manufacturing Industry. U. S. Tariff Commission,1920,p. 76.

TARIFF CONSIDERATIONS.

The classification of wool hosiery according to valuations of less than $1.20 per dozen pairs and $1.20 or more per dozen pairs under the act of 1913 had little significance, as the rise in prices caused practically the entire import to be thrown into the higher category. The average unit value of imports in 1920 was $7.97. An inconsistency has been noted in the act of 1913, inasmuch as wool hosiery "not specially provided for" which is actually "cut" hosiery was entered at 20 per cent ad valorem, whereas the knit fabric from which such hosiery is made was dutiable at 35 per cent. Even the second grade of hosiery provided for carried a less rate of duty (30 per cent) than wool knit fabrics.

STATISTICAL TABLES.

TABLE 5.-Production in the United States, by States-Wool hosiery.

TABLE 6.-Production in the United States, by kinds-Wool hosiery,

TABLE 7.-Imports for consumption-Revenue-Wool hosiery 1—Total.

1 Not separately stated prior to Jan. 1, 1914.

* Including 7,417 dozen pairs valued at $37,557 admitted free of duty.

• Including 305,534 dozen pairs, equivalent to 660,102 pounds, valued at $1,778,971, imported under the emergency tariff act of May 27, 1921.

♦ Imported under the emergency tariff act of May 27, 1921. Equivalent to 530,410 pounds.