which receive substantial amounts shows that this trade is widely distributed. These statistics include silk knit goods, and it is probable that a considerable proportion represents silk hosiery.25 During each of the years for which statistics are given, exports to Canada far exceed those to any other country. Canadian import figures show that about one-third of the silk wearing apparel received from the United States consists of hosiery. Since Canada is the most important foreign market for American-made silk wearing apparel, a brief analysis of Canadian import statistics would be of interest. The total was $1,491,751 in 1918, of which 82 per cent came from the United States; $3,233,855 in 1920, 83 per cent from the United States, and $2,219,108 in 1921, 67 per cent from the United States. The classifications which make this total are hosiery, blouses, shirts, underwear, shawls, and clothing n. o. p. f., stated in order of importance except for the last, which is by far the greatest, amounting to over $2,000,000 in 1920 and over $1,600,000 in 1921. The United States supplied more than 78 per cent of the unspecified silk clothing and more than 90 per cent of both the hosiery and blouses in 1920, but only 61 per cent of the unspecified clothing and 83 per cent of the blouses in 1921. The per cent of hosiery varied little. Silk shirts are the only important item of which the largest proportion does not come from the United States. These are principally supplied by Japan, but the total is so small as not to affect the position of the United States in the Canadian silk wearing apparel market. The United Kingdom ranked next to Canada as a consumer of American silk apparel in 1919 and 1920, in the latter year taking a value of $1,894,526. The value sent to Argentina in 1921 amounted to $1,028,976. Cuba and Australia followed in importance, but exports to none of these equaled $1,000,000. The United States sent silk wearing apparel, valued at $411,181, to France in 1920, but this was less than one-sixth the amount received from that country in the same year. FOREIGN PRODUCTION. Although no statistics of production in foreign countries are available, there are many indications that France is first in this industry. An examination of imports into other countries usually discloses the fact that France is the chief country of origin. Few articles of wearing apparel are itemized in the statistics of many countries, but cravats are specified in the reports of most South American countries, amounting usually to a fair proportion of the total imports of silk wearing apparel in those countries. This may be because women's ready-made garments are less popular than in the United States. France, Germany, Italy, Great Britain, and Austria-Hungary are the principal countries from which silk cravats are obtained by South American countries. France supplies by far the larger part of other articles of silk wearing apparel imported into South American countries. The total exports of silk wearing apparel from Japan are rather large, but consist almost entirely of special articles, kimonas and nightgowns, as the Japanese can not make occidental clothing which in style and cut can compete in the markets of Europe and America. 25 Export statistics for the first quarter, 1922, are given in more detail. See Addenda, p. 58. IMPORTS. Imports for consumption of plain silk wearing apparel were not stated separately from those ornamented with lace and embroidery until after the act of 1913, so a table of total imports of silk wearing apparel from 1891 to 1921 is given, followed by a second table of imports of plain silk wearing apparel from 1914 to 1921. The highest imports were $5,275,668 in 1911 and the lowest $1,310,700 in 1899. Imports for 1921 were $5,225,009, second only to 1911. The period from 1899 to 1911 was marked by a gradual increase in imports, which again diminished in 1912 and 1913. The total imports for 1914 were larger than for either of the two preceding years, but it is interesting to note that over 40 per cent of the year's total came in during the first quarter under the higher tariff of 1909, the duties averaging 60.05 per cent, while the duties for the last three quarters averaged only 56.23 per cent of the valuation. During the remaining years under the act of 1913 the annual value of imports was less than during the years under the act of 1909. This was probably due to the general conditions of transportation, restriction of export, and curtailment of luxury manufacture in belligerent countries. Silk corsets are separately stated in import for consumption statistics. The year of greatest imports was 1913, for which 1,304 dozen, valued at $39,476, are recorded. Since then the largest amount was 271 dozen, valued at $10,815, in 1917. France has always been the most important source of the imports of silk wearing apparel into the American market, averaging $2,647,798 for the five years 1910-1914, over 50 per cent of the total. Although there was a decrease in imports from France during war years, the lowest was $982,639 in 1918, and imports for 1921 were $2,749,610. Germany contributed $1,098,221 in 1910 and $1,040,384 in 1911, but imports fell to $403,810 in 1912 and were less in each successive year until 1920. Imports from the United Kingdom were $1,098,542 in 1911, but have never been as much as one-half as great in any year since. Export statistics of these countries are not given in sufficient detail to ascertain the varieties of wearing apparel supplied by each. Silk wearing apparel from Japan averaged annually less than one-half million dollars in value prior to 1916, but in 1920 amounted to $2,261,732. This was the largest value imported from any one country other than France during the period shown in the table. Japan's quota for 1921 was not so large. Japanese imports did not take the place of the diminished European supply, because they are distinctly Japanese products, consisting largely of kimonas and nightgowns. The increase represents rather an increased activity of Japanese manufacturers and a more energetic sales campaign in the American market than a supplanting of other trade. From interviews with examiners at the appraisers' stores in New York City and with men in the trade, it has been ascertained that the largest part of the silk wearing apparel imported is women's wearing apparel, most of which comes from France. Paris is the world's center for women's styles, and costumers and manufacturers from all countries go there for inspiration. Paris gowns are bought for the style suggestions they carry; they are imported, for the most part, simply as models to be copied with various modifications and without the expectation of being sold in this country at a price which would cover the cost plus the duty, being considered an overhead expense. Under Section IV, paragraph J, subsection 4, of the tariff act of 1913 articles. of women's wearing apparel, for use as models. only, may be imported in bond without payment of duty if reexported within six months. These gowns are frequently sold in Canada at reduced prices to avoid the necessity of paying duty in the United States. This provision is considered by the industry to be more important to success than a protective tariff would be.20 Imports of women's wearing apparel for the most part are not competitive with domestic production, but are necessary to stimulate the industry in this country, as Paris is the acknowledged leader in styles. There has been some increase in the imports of French handmade blouses which are offered for sale. This has been described as a temporary, condition resulting from present relative prices, as ordinarily it would not be profitable to import them in any quantities. Apparel ornamented with beading is not provided for in paragraph 358, hence would be imported under paragraph 317 at 50 per cent ad valorem. The amount of such goods that comes in depends entirely upon the vogue. In the last few years it has been popular, and some of the imports of waists and dresses entered for consumption and therefore offered for sale, have been those ornamented with beads. There is no provision for the temporary free importation of men's wearing apparel, nor would such a provision have any significance, especially in silk clothing, which comprises chiefly shirts and neckties, wherein there would be little need for model garments. The importation of men's goods, determined to a large extent by quality, is on a small scale by haberdasheries and by individuals especially desiring the excellent material and superior finish of French and English shirts. The Japanese have sought to develop this trade, but although they use the best of silks, the cut and finish of their garments is as yet too poor to find favor where price is not the controlling factor. High-grade ties, as other lines of men's wear, including pajamas and underwear, come from England and are more nearly competitive in character with the American product than are other lines of wearing apparel, but in actual imports the quantity is so small as not to affect the domestic industry to any extent. To sum up, in general, imports of silk wearing apparel do not offer any real competition to the domestic industry in the home market; increased imports have in large measure been caused by the present ratio of prices; women's wearing apparel is brought in chiefly by the manufacturers themselves to be used for ideas and not for sales purposes; men's wearing apparel, usually distinguished for quality or workmanship, is imported by shops which carry specialties or by individuals. TARIFF HISTORY. The tariff rate on silk wearing apparel has always been a flat ad valorem, varying only from 50 to 60 per cent under different acts. It was 60 per cent under the act of 1890, 50 per cent under the act of 1894, and again 60 per cent under the act of 1897. These rates 26 American manufacturers state that because of American workmanship and efficiency of organization foreign goods are not normally competitive on a price basis, but that France competes on a style basis and American manufacturers must follow the fashion dictates of Paris. Hence it is greatly to their advantage to be able to import model gowns as cheap as possible, and they desire the retention of the provision for free entry of such goods. covered silk wearing apparel whether plain or ornamented. The act of 1909 retained the 60 per cent rate, but made a special provision at 70 per cent for wearing apparel ornamented with lace or embroidery made on a Lever or Gothrough machine. The act of 1913 provided for all ornamented wearing apparel, regardless of the manner in which the lace or embroidery was made, at 60 per cent, and for plain silk wearing apparel (par. 317) at 50 per cent. COMPETITIVE CONDITIONS. Each phase of the industry is surrounded by conditions more or less applicable to it alone. France leads the world in the dress or costume industry, inasmuch as it dictates the fashion, but it does not lead in actual production. Paris gowns are sold in all countries but represent individual purchases of the well to do, not the largescale buying of the masses. The bulk of American ready-to-wear clothing is made on the quantity-production basis, many garments according to one model. The more exclusive shops carry gowns similar to the French, gowns individual in style and ornamentation. A Paris gown is not superior to an American either artistically or in actual workmanship, but Paris sets the pace of fashion and Parisian ideas dominate the trend of style from season to season. American manufacturers find it necessary to follow the French suggestions and import French model gowns to stimulate their own trade by the reproduction and adaptation of the latest accepted ideas. In every other respect, except wage rates, the American industry has at least equal advantages and the lower foreign wage rates do not in reality represent cheaper labor, being offset by greater efficiency in American establishments. The clause providing for the free importation of models in bond (Sec. IV, par. J, subsec. 4, act of 1913) is considered of the greatest importance from a tariff point of view by American dress manufacturers. STATISTICAL MATERIAL. TABLE 13.—Total silk wearing apparel―—Imports by countries. TABLE 14.-Total silk wearing apparel (other than knit goods)-Imports for consumption-Revenue. • Totals, 1902-1920, include imports from Philippine Islands and Cuba. Philippine acts of 1902 and 1905 ; reciprocity treaty with Cuba, 1902. Wearing apparel wholly or in chief value of laces, embroideries, etc., made on a Lever or Gothrough machine dutialle at 70 per cent. TABLE 15.-Silk wearing apparel not ornamented with lace or embroidery (except knit goods and corsets)-Imports for consumption-Revenue. 1 Not separately stated prior to Oct. 4, 1913. 50 per cent ad valorem. Per cent. $873, 731 $436, 791 49.99 930, 674 463, 964 49.85 912, 908 456, 454 50.00 1,220, 892 610, 401 49.67 964, 051 481, 519 49.94 684, 619 340, 517 49.74 2,027,851 1,007, 480 49.68 2 Usually less than 50 per cent, because imports from the Philippine Islands or for special uses are free. |