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Who, forced unhallow'd arms to bear,
Portentous, red with unrelenting ire,
Ye guilty, who may quench the kindled fire !
Ennobled by self-sacrifice,
The wilful king appointed o'er mankind
Is fled !-Avenger, mount the chariot of the wind !
Be thine, to guide the rapid scythe,
Against th' invader doomed to writhe,
Nor death-avail the hard of heart to tame !
Blow wind, and pierce the dire array,
Rise, lonely rock in a wide ocean,
The hour is coming-seize the hour !
From ghastly dream, from death-like trance
O then, by tribulation tried,
A RAMBLE IN MONTENEGRO.
Few nations of Europe have been tive, and the passengers full of politeless known than the Montenegrians, 'ness. Zara, the capital of Dalmatia, and the name even of their country where we stopped a day and a night, is seldom found on maps.* Surround is a walled town of moderate extent, ed by great empires, they have always said to contain 8000 inhabitants. It preserved the independence of their possesses some antiquities. Over the rugged mountains, and have even suc gates of this, and all other of the Dal. ceeded in wresting several rich plains matian seaports, the Lions of Saint from the sway of Turkey. With this Mark yet remain. It is best known power hostilities seldom cease; but for the excellence of its rosoglio. The such is the system with which her re next town we arrived at was Sebenico, sources are managed, that while the now much decayed, and Spalatro, the Montenegrians are at peace with one most interesting of all, where the badpasha, they are enabled to concentrate ness of the weather, during the short their force against another-and all time we stayed, prevented our landing the while the Sublime Porte does not to see the extensive Roman remains. condescend to interfere. Not many After anchoring off Curzola for a years ago, they possessed the reputa- night, we came to Ragusa, where we tion of being a horde of robbers; and, stopped two days. At Zara and Sein all probability, the pilgrim who benico we had opportunites of seeing ventured among them would have re the Morlaccian race. These are the ruturned, if at all, as shirtless as them- ral inhabitants of Dalmatia, speaking selves. But the breath of the spirit a Sclavonic dialect, while in the towns of the age, though faintly wafted to they pride themselves on their Venetheir mountains, has softened some tian origin and language. Amongst thing of their character, without de- these peasants were the noblest specistroying in the least their indepen mens of the human kind I have ever dence or nationality. Bold, hardy,
Of stature almost gigantic, and free, ready and eager for the foray and of the amplest development of and the fray, a stranger is now as safe chest, their symmetry of limb and among them as in any part of her elasticity of step would have called Majesty's kingdom.
forth notice in a Scottish Highlander. Whoever wishes to make the ac Nor could a somewhat manifest omisquaintance of this primitive people, sion to cares of the toilet disguise will do well to embark on board the complexion and features almost faultAustrian Lloyd's Company's steamer less, and in which an expression of from Trieste to Cattaro. They will be frankness and good-nature left one well accommodated, at reasonable nothing to fear from their armed numcharges, and have an opportunity of bers. I speak not of a few among a seeing the principal towns of Dalma- crowd, but of nearly all I saw. It tia, a country little frequented by tra was from amongst these that the vellers. Such was the case with our French, during their occupation, chose selves, (an English lady and gentle- their finest grenadiers; but at present, man,) who quitted Trieste on the 5th in consequence of the scantiness of of November 1843. The voyage com the population, the humanity of the menced pleasantly, and we had the Austrian government has suspended good-luck to have the ladies' cabin to all conscription. Still it is possible, ourselves. The captain was a very gen- that, in the hour of danger, Austria tlemanlike person, the steward atten- might profit more from the devoted
* An excellent map of Montenegro has been made by an Austrian officer of engineers, who resided there for the purpose- but I have not now the advantage of referring to it. This country is divided into twelve military departments; the natives reckon its extent about three days' journey in the longest, by two in the widest part. Those, of course, are foot or mule journeys.
VOL. LVII. XO, CCCI.I.
loyalty of this armed and stalwart which overthrew so many mightier peasantry, than if her ranks were fill states. In 1809 they became compuled with its forced recruits. Their dress sory allies of the French. Their nominal consists of a coarse brown jacket, and independence lasted about two years a waistcoat of red cloth, both orna longer. During the time the French ocmented on the edges, and made to sit cupied it, the city was attacked by the close on the shoulders, without any combined forces of the Russians and collar, and which advantageously dis- Montenegrians; the former by sea, play their well put on head and neck. while the latter conducted the operaThey wear a small red skull-cap, round tions on land. Luckily they failed to at top; but, when married, they usu take it; but they burned and destroyed, ally surround this with a white tur without exception, every one of the ban. Their pantaloons are of blue, numerong villas by which it was surand fịt close from the knee to the rounded. Since the loss of her indeankle, and below they wear the opun- pendence, the trade of Ragusa has ka-a species of sandal, made of sheep- ceased, and her wealth has departed; skin, and bound with thongs, which, while many of her once haughty noas may be seen from their elastic stepbility have no other subsistence than and upright carriage, are well fitted a scanty pension, which the bounty of to their country; round their waist
the government affords them. The is a red sash, and in front a lea town is interesting, and some of its ther belt, in which is placed a yata- buildings ancient and peculiar, though ghan and a smaller knife, and exhibit- hardly to be called handsome--the ing usually the handsome pommels of scale being small. Of the country silver or brass-mounted pistols. Over houses desolated by the Montenegrians, all is a long brown cloak, open in not one in twenty has been repaired; front, and fastening over the chest, and they remain roofless and blackenforming a dress which, with their ed, a lasting memorial of the ferocity free and martial bearing, gives them of that people. The neighbourhood the appearance of ready-made soldiers. is beautiful, and appears more so after The women are, comparatively, infe the stony desolation which the rest of rior to the men ; but their counte Dalmatia exhibits. Though the houses nances are cheerful, and a white nap- still remain in ruins, the gardens conkin gracefully put on the head, had tinue to be cultivated. Olives, vines, a very classical appearance. For the figs, and carruba trees grow in them, rest, they wore a coarso shirt-over and the tops of the hills are covered that a coarser, without arms, neither with stone pines and delightful evercoming much below the knee-a party- greens, of heaths, junipers, cypress, coloured apron and stockings, with and other plants, which at home we opunkas, like the men. Near Zara
coax to grow in our greenhouses. is a small colony of Albanians, who Quitting Ragusa, after having been still retain their national manners and once driven back by the badness of dress, though settled time out of the weather, we at length entered mind.
the Bocca of Cattaro, after a passage Ragusa—of old a republic, with its of about nine hours. Both in its doge and senate—is a city whose glory general and immediate position, few has departed. This little state-con spots can be imagined so cut off from sisting of the town, the promontory the rest of the world as Cattaro. of Sabioncello, the island of Melida, Standing close on the sea, with stuwith a few smaller ones-numbering pendous mountains overhanging it on about forty thousand inhabitants, each side, it is deprived even of the had never been subjected by Venice, light of the sun for the greater part and was governed on the most aris of the day; and, towards the end of tocratic principles. At the time of November—this is no boon. By land the late war, the inhabitants of the the Dalmatian coast-road (the only city owned about four hundred large one, I believe, in the country) passes vessels--and observing and profiting through it, but it would prove indifferby neutrality, they traded every where, ent, I should think, to any but the and acquired great wealth. But they pedestrian; and there is also the mounwere not destined to escape the storm tain-path, of three hours' ascent,
which leads into Montenegro, and Bart., and afterwards garrisoned by issues up from the gates of the town the Vladika of Montenegro, since in a zigzag form, till it appears lost which time an Englishman has hardly in the clouds. Any one wishing to been seen by the people within their quit Cattaro, has indeed, like the gates. Consequently their ideas of robcountry waiter in England, but“ three bing the stranger are faint and barbadesperate alternatives." He must rous; here, as throughout Dalmatia, wait for the next steamer, a whole should you give a man money, and the month if in winter, and return the sum be not even more than twice the way he came. Or he may attempt value of the obligation, the poor ignoto pass through Albania to Greece or ramus is delighted, and thanks and the islands, which would in all likeli- blesses you most fervently. The clihood prove the last attempt he would mate of Cattaro is not considered ever make. Or he may hire one of the healthy. The inhabitants die of concountry trabacolos to take him where sumption in the winter, and fever in he likes. They are neither fast in the summer, and they generally have their sailing nor luxurious in their ac a sickly appearance. There are smart commodation — the price being any
silversmith shops, and many ornathing but cheap. In one thing the tra ments are wrought with much neatveller has no difficulty, which is to dis
There are several also devoted cover the first hotel, as their number is to the sale of arms, as the Montene.. strictly limited. Consequently in about grians here buy and repair the princihalf an hour, during which the steamer pal weapons they use. Pistols, guns, had taken her departure, we found and yataghans are mounted in silver ourselves the inmates of the principal and mother-of-pearl, coral and other salon in the Locanda della Corona, stones, with skill and taste. The popuIt is ever a comfort, when expectation lation are as remote in appearance is not at its highest, to find things from that of any town in western better; and happy the mind that seeks Europe, as in the most primitive part it!
of the East. The town's-people wear a The house was not very dirty, the black jacket of cloth or velvet, withi landlady was full of kindness, and not silver basket buttons, a small cap, and destitute of good looks. After her wide drawers of the same cloth, with first paroxysms of welcome and sur black stockings or high boots, and a prise had passed, then succeeded ad- red sash. The costumes of some of miration, then a general presentation the villages along the shores of the to all friends and relations of the family Bocca are very pretty. The women that could be summoned on a short from Dulcinea wear a body petticoat notice, with many fervent blessings and jacket of scarlet, with silver butand prayers for our welfare, and at tons and buckles, and a white coverlength, which pleased us as much as ing tastefully enfolding the head and any thing, a very eatable dinner. shoulders. The peasantry to the south During that day, and part of the en wear the Montenegrian dress; the suing week, I improved my acquain poorer ones, in extreme scantiness. tance with Cattaro—an acquaintance These profess, like that people, the which, before final separation, became tenets of the Greek church, and in apvery intimate indeed. It contains pearance and dialect do not differ from several small squares or places, with them. A bolder look, however, and an some churches and other public build air of independence, usually mark the ings. There is a respectable café, Montenegrian. Between Cattaro and which is frequented by the officers of Montenegro there is no quarantine or the garrison, and on the whole it is restriction of intercourse. Without rather a neat little town. The popu
the latter the former would cease to lation may be about three thousand. exist—without the former life would It is fortified, having two gates to the be burdensome in Montenegro. Three land and one to the sea. Perched times a-week a bazar is held outside above, at a great height, is the castle, each of the land gates, to which the said to be of considerable strength. Montenegrians descend, themselves In the late war Cattaro was taken loaded with arms and independence, from the French by Sir William Hoste, and their women and mules with the