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LETTER I.

Dispatch it, therefore, to us with all speed; for I expect wonders from it.

Let me tell you To Mr.

hope, in the first place, it will, in lome meature,

remove the barbarity of our present education : DEAR SIR,

for what hopes can there be of any progress in The happiness of hearing now and then from learning, whill our gentlemen fuffer their fons, cel you extremely delights me; for, I must confess, at Westminster, Eaton, and Winchester, lo dat no

most of my other friends are so much taken up thing but falls with their mutten, and vinegar with -- with politics or speculations, that either their their roaf beef, upon holidays? what extensiveness hopes or fears give them little leisure to peruse can there be in their souls, especially when, upon

parts of learning as lay remote, and are fit their going thence to the univerfiiy, their knowse only for the closers of the curious. How blest are ledge in culinary matters is seldom cnlarged, and

you at London, where you have new books of all their diet continues very much the same; and as
forts: whilft we at a greater distance, being dc- to sauces, they are in profound ignorance?
Ritute of such improvements, mult content ouro

li were to be wished, therefore, that every fafelves with the old store, and thumb the claffics mily had a French cutor; far, besides his being as if we were never to get higher than our Tully groom, gardener, butler, and valet, you would or our Virgil

Tee that he is endued with a greater accomaine You tantalize me only, when you tell me of ment; for, according to our ancient author Q.10the edition of a book by the ingenious Dr. Lister, Galli, totidem coqui, As many Frenchm na you which you say is a treatise De Cordimentis et Op“ have, to many cooks you may depend up -1;" Feriis Veterum, “Of the Sauces and Soups of the which i very useful, whe e there is a numerous " Ancients," as I ake it. Give me leave to use issue. And I doubt not, but, with such tutors, an expression, which, though vulgar, yet upon and giod housekeepers to provide cake and freetthis occasion is just and proper : You have made meals, together with the tender care of an inmy mouth water, but have not fent me where-dulgent mother, to see that the children cat and withal to fari fy my appetite.

drink every thing that they call for ; I doubr not, I have aised a thousand notions to myself, only I say, but we may have a warlike and frugal from the title. Where could such a ireasure lay gentry, a temperate and aufere clergy; and such hid? What manuscripts have been collared ? Un persons of quality, in all stations, as may best under what emperor was it written? Might it not dergo the fatigues of our first and armies. have been in the reign of Heliogabalus, who,

Pardon me, Sir, if I breaks off abruptly; for I though vicios, and in some things fantastical, yet am going to Monsieur D'avaux, a person fanous was not incurious in the grand affair of eating?

for casing the tooth-ach by avulsson. He has proConsider, dear Sir, in what uncertainties we miled to thew me how to strike a larcet into the mult remain at present. You know my neigh- jugelar of a carp, so as the blood may issue thence bour Mr. Greatrix is a learned antiquary. I

with the greatest effufion; and then will ivftantly Thewed him your letter; which threw him into perform the operation of stewing it in its own Such a dubiousness, and indeed perplexity of mind, 1 blood, in the presence of myself and several more that the next day he durft not put any catıbup in virtuoli. But, let him use what claret he will in his fifpofauce, nor have his beloved pepper, oil, and the performance, I will secure enough to drink, himon, with his partridge, left, before he had seen your hсalth and the rest of your friends. Do Lister's book, he might transgress in using

I remain, Sir, &c. not common to the ancience.

Te ij

something

SIR,

SIR,

very much in the dark. It is very probable, tha LETTER II.

the public use of them came in abou: the same time that the Egyptians made use of juries

. I To Mr.

find, the preface to the “ Third Pa tu Mo “dern Reports," that “the Chalices had i

great esteem for the number TWELTE, because I shall make boid to claim your pronise, in “ there were so many signs of the Zodiack: fros your last obliging letter, to obtain the happineis “ them this number caine to the Egyptians, 2rd of my correspondence with Dr. Lifter; and to « so to Greece, where Mars himself was tried les that end have sent you the enclosed, to be com a murder, and was acquitted.” Now it des municated to him, if you think convenient.

not appear upon record, nor any lone that I barz scen, whether the jury clubbed, or whether Man treated them, at dinner, though it is most izkeis that he did; for he was a quarrelioune fort cia

person, and probably, though acquitted, might x LETTER UI.

as guilty as Count Koningsmark. Now the other

tom of juries dining at an cating house, and hasTo Dr. LISTER, present.

ing glasses of water brought them with titlege tinged with vermilion swimming at the top, being

still continued, why may we not imagine, the I am a plain man, and therefore never use com the toctb-picks were as ancient as the diant, the pliments; but I must tell you that I have a great

dinner as the juries, and the juries at least as ambition to hold a correspondence with you, grand-children of Mitzraim ? Homer maks Es especially that I may beg you to communicaté heroes feed so grossly, that they seem to have had your remarks from the ancients concerning den niore occasion for skewers than goi-guill.. Hea tiscalps, vulgarly called tooth-picks. I take the use very tedious in describing a smith's forge and a of them to have been of great antiquity, and the anvil; whereas he mighi have been more priti, original to come from the instind of Nature, in setting out the tootbapick-case or painted fasade which is the best mistress upon all occasions. The of Achilles, if that age had not been so barber Egyptians were a people excellent for their philo

as to want them. And bere I cannot but co fophical and mathematical observations: 'they der, that Athens, in the time of Pericles, shes searched into all the springs of action; and, ) it flourished most in sumptuous buildings, and though I must condemn their superstition, I can

Rome in its height of empire, from Augufos do not but applaud their invention. This people to Adrian, had nothing that cqualled the Royal had a vast diftrict that worshipped the crocodile riolities and toy-bops; neither had their fenate se!

or New Exchange, or Pope's-head Alley, for a which is an animal, whose jaws, being very oblong, give him the opportunity of having a great thing to alleviare their debates concerning the # many teeth; and his habitation and business Tying . fairs of th: universe, like raffling fometimes : most in the water, he, likc our modern Dutch

Colonel Parson's. Although the Egyptians of:23 wbitfters * in Southwark, had a very good sto extended their conquets into Africa and Exhip mach, and was extremely voracious. It is cer. and though the Cafre Blacks hare very fine ter; tain, that he had the water of Nile always ready, yet I cannot find that they made use of any iai and consequently the opportunity of washing his instrument: nor does Ludolphus, though to mouth after meals; yet he had farther occafion exact as to the Abyslinian empire, give any : for other inftruments to cleanse his teeth, which count of a matter so important; for which der are ferrate, or like a faw. To this end, Nature

to blame, as I fall thew in my Treatise of " sebe has provided an animal called the ichneumon, which

" and Napking," of which I ihall send you 20 Eperforms this office, and is so maintained by the lay with all expedi:ion. Uhali in that Trento product of its own labour. The Egyptians, seeing fully illustrate or confute ihis paffage of Dr. Hea Such an useful fagacity in t’e crocodile, which they lin, in the third book of his “ CofnogT25&T, so much reverenced, foon began to imitate it

, where he lays of the Chinese, « That increte grcat examples easily drawing the multitude; so

“ their meat with two sticks of ivory, ebasy, that it became their conftant custom to pick their " the like; not touching it with their hands teeth, and wash their niouths, after cating. I

“ all, and therefore no ereat foolers of hoe cannot find in Marsham's “ Dynasties,

" The use of Gilver forks with us, by some of our the “ Fragments of Manethon," what year of the “ {pruce gallants taken up of late, came free moon (for I hold the Egyptian years to have been

“ hence into Italy, and from thence into lunar, that is, but of a month's continuance) so “ land." I cannot agrce with this learned D. there venerable an usage first began; for it is the fault in many of these particulars. For, first, the use of great philologers, to omit such things as are

these flicks is not so much :o fase lines

, as cet ei most material. Whether Sefoftris, in his large pure necefüty, which arises from the length of conquefts, might extend the use of them, is as un

their nails, which persons of great quality in these certain; for the glorious actions of those ages lay countries wear at a prodigious length, to prevent

all possibility of working, or being serviceabie ze Whole tenter-grounds are now almost all built upon. themselves or others; and therefore, if they

or in

}

would, they could not easily feed themselves with those claws: and I have very good authority,

LET TER IV. that in the East, and cfpecially in Japan, the

To Mr. princes have the meat put into their mouths hy

SIR, their attendants. Besides, these sticks are of no use but for their fort of meat, which, being pilau,

I am now very seriously employed in a work is all boiled to rags

But what would thufe sticks that, I hope, may be useful to the public, which fignify to carve a turkey-cock, or a ekine of beef? is a Poem of the “ Art of Cookery,” in imitation therefore our forks are of quite different shape of Horace's “ Art of Poetry," inscribed to Dr. The steel ones are bibental and the filver generally Lifter, as hoping it may be in time read as a preresembling tridents; which makes me think them liminary to his works. But I have not vanity to be as ancient as the Saturnian race, where the enough to think it will live so long. I have, in former is appropriated to Pluto, and the latter to

the mean time, fent you an imitation of Horace's Neptune. It is certain, that Pedro Della Valle, invitation of Torquatus to fupper, which is the that famous Italian traveller, carried his knife and

Fifth Epifle of his First Book. Perhaps you will fork into the Eaf-lndics; and he gives a large ac

find so many faults in this, that you may save me count, low, at the court of an Indian prince, he

the trouble of my other proposal; but, however,' was admired for his neatness in that particular, take it as it is: and his care in wiping ibat and his knife before he

If Bellvill can his generous foul confine returned them to their respective repositories. I

To a small room, few dishes, and tome wine, could with Dr. Wotton, in the next edition of his 1 hall expe& my happiness at nine. “ Modern Learning," would shew us how much

Two bottles of Imooth Palm, or Anjou white, we are improved since Dr. Heylin's time, and tell

Shall give a welcome, and prepare delight; us the original of ivary knives, with which young Then for the Bourdeaux you may freely alk; heirs are suffered to mangle their own pudding ;

But the Champaigne is to each man his fiask. as likewise of silver and gold knives, brought in with the desere for carving of jellies and orange And, if you can exceed it, speak; I'll yield.

I tell you with what force I keep the field; butter ; and the indispensable neceffity of a filver The snow-white damaik enfigns are display'd, knife at the fide-board, to mingle sallads with, as

And glittering salvers on the side-board laid. is with great learning made out in a Treatise call

Thus we'll disperse all busy thoughts and cares, ed Acetaria, concerning “ Dressing of Sallads."

The general's counsels, and the latesman's fears: A noble work! But I transgrefs

Nor shall Necp reign in that precedent night, And yet, pardon me, good Doctor, I had al- Whose joyful hours lead on the glorious light, must forgot a thing that I would not have done

Sacred to British worth in Blenheim's figh:. for, the world, it is so remarkable. I think I may The blessings of good-fortune seem refus’d, be positive, from this versc of Juvenal, where he

Uolcis sometimes with generous freedom us'd. speaks of the Egyptians,

'Tis madness, noe frugality, prepares

A vast excess of wealth for squandering heirs. · “ Porrum et cepe nefas violare, et frangere morsu,” Munt i of neither winc nor mirth partake,

Let the cenforious world should call me rake? that it was " sacrilege to chop a leek, or bite an

Who, unacquainted with the generous wine, “ onion.” Nay, I believe that it amounts to a

E’er spoke bold truths, or fram'd a great deliga? demonstration, that Pharaoh Necho could have no

That makes us fancy every face has charms; true lenten porridge, nor any carrier's fauce to his

That gives us courage, and then finds us arms; mution; the true receipt of making which sauce

Sees care disburthen'a, and each tongue employ'd, I have from an ancient MS. remaining at the

The poor grown rich, and every with enjoy'd. Bull inn in Bishoplgate-treet, which runs thus :

This I'll perform, and promise you shall see “ Take feven spoonfuls of spring-water; Nice

A cleanliness from affectation free: “ įwo onions of moderate fize into a large faucer, No noise, no hurry, when the neat's set on, " and put in as much salt as you can hold at thrice

Or, when the dith is chang'd, the servants gone: “ betwixt your sore-finger and thunib, if large,

For all things ready, nothing more to fetch; " and serve it up." Probatum eft.

Whate'er you want is in the master's reach.
Hoeson, Carrier to the University Then for the company, I'll see it chose ;
of Canıbridge.

Thcir emblematic lignal is the Rose.

If you of Freeman's raillery approve, 'The effigies of that worthy person remain still at that inn; and I dare fay, not only Hobson, but

Or Cotton's laugh, and Winner's tales of love,

And Bellair's charming voice niay be allow'd ; old Birch, and many others of that musical and

What can you hope for better from a crowd? delightful profesion, would rather have been la

But I shall not prescribe. Consult your ease; bourers at the pyramids with that regale, then to

Write back your men, and number, as you please; have reigned at Memphis, and have been debarred of it. I break off abruptly. Believe me an

Try your back-stairs, and let the lobby wait: admirer of your worth, and a follower of your

A stratagem in war is no deceit. methods towards the increase of learning, and

I am, Sir, yours, &c. nore especially your, &c.

T t iij

}

Poem would at the same time console Her L TE TER V.

original Latin, or some of the aforemene

TranNators, they would find at least chisted Το Mr.

that they would recollect those excellent 2

tions which he delivers to us in fuch das I HERĖ send you what I promised, "A Discourse

guage. “ of Cokery,” after the me:hod which Horace I could with the Master and Wardens er has taken in his “ Art of Poetry," which I have Cooks' Company would order this poem : all along kept in my vie tv ; for Horace certainly read with due consideration; for it is foot is is an author to be imitated in the delivery of pre- to be run over, seeing it contains many ule: cepts for any art or science. He is indeed severe structions for human life. It is true, tha: foto upon our sort of learning in fome of his Satires ; these rules may seem more principally to by but even there he instructs, as in the Fourth Sa the Steward, Clerk of the Kitchen, Caute, tire of the Second Book, ver. 13.

perhaps the butler. But the Cook beta:

principal perfon, without whom all the rele “ Longa quibus facies ovis erit, illa memento, litile regarded, they are directed to him: 2:1 “ Ut succi melioris, et ur magis alba rotundis, work being designed for the universal good “ Punere: namque marem cohibent callosa vi. will accomplish some part of its intent, if that tellum.”

of people will improve by it.

It nay happen, in this as in all works of : “ Choose «ggs oblong; remember they'll be that there may be fomc terms pot ebricu found

common readers; but they are not many. T: « Of swerter tafte, and whiter than the round: reader may not have a just idea of a fooled " The firmness of that fell includes the male." which is a sheep roasted in its wool, to tave **

labour of flaying. Bacon and Albert-tarts are le I am much of his opinion, and could only wish thing unusual; but, fince sprout-iarts and that the world was thoroughly informed of two tarts are much the same thing, and to be lees 2 other truths concerning eggs One is, how incon Dr. Salmon's “ Family Dictionary,” hole pentru parably better roafied eggs are than boiled; the who have a defire for them may easily feis: other, never to eat any butter with cog's in the way to make them. As for grout, it is ag old I foell You cannot imagine how much more you nish dish; and it is claimed as an bonoer te dhe will have of their flavour, and how much easier ancient family of Leigh, to carry a disa of it c;" they will fit tipon your Romach. The worthy | the coronation. A dwarf-pve was preparet

. ** person who recommended it to me made many King James the First, when Jeffery his dwartade profelytes; and I have the vanity to think, that I out of one armed with a sword and backler; have not been altogether unsuccessful.

is so recorded in history, that there are few I have in this poem used a plain, cary, fatmiliar know it. Though marinated fijo, bideetrees

, and Nyl-, as most fit for precept; neither have I been ambigues, are known to all that deal in color ton exact an imitator of Horace, as he himself dia

yet terrenes are not so usual, being a fileer vet? rects. I have not consulted any of his translators; | filled with the most costly dainties, after the ti neither Mr. Oldham, whose copiousness runs into ner of an oglio. A surprise is likewise a didh ett Paraphrale; nor Ben Jonson, who is admirable

very common; which, promiling little free for his close following of the original; nor yet the £-It appearance, when open, abounds with stic Lord Roscommon, to excellent for the beauty of oi variety; which I carnot better resemble 2 his language, and his penetration into the very to the och act of one of our modern comedies design and loul of thar Auther. I considered that Lest Monteth, Vinegar, Talieffin, and Beife, Be* I went upon a new undertaking; and though I do be taken for dishes of rarities; it may be 1936 not value myself up n it so much as Lucretius did, that Monteth was a gentleman with a scz pat yet I dare lay it is more innocent and inoffensive.

coat, that Vinegar keeps the ring at Line in's Sometimes, when Horace's roles come too thick fields, Talieslin was one of the most apcien: bara and sententious, I have so far taken liberty as to amongst the Britons, and Bossu one of the pass over some of them; for I consider the nature certain instructors in criticism that this lates and temper of Cooks, who are not of the most has produced;

ient disposition, as their under-fervants too often i hope it will not be taken ill by the wits, the experience. I wish I might prevail with them to I call my cooks by the title of ingenious; fer moderate their pasions, which will be the greater cannot imagine why cooks may not be 23 ! conqueft, fceing a continual heat is added to their read as any other persons. I am sure thciro native fire.

prentices, of late years, have had very ETER! Amid the variety of diretions that Horace portunities of improvement; and men of the : gives us in his “ Art of Poetry,” which is one of pretences to literature have been very liberal, es the most accurate picces that he or any other Au sent in their contributions very largely. They thor has writien, ihere is a secret connexion in have been very serviceable both to spit and rest, reality, though he doth not express it too plainly; and for these twelve months past, whilft Dr. W* and therefore this Imitation of it has many breaks ton with his " Modern Learning" in it. Ii such as fhall condescend to read this pyc-cruft from Scorching, his dear friend Dr. Bet

was detente

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ley, with his “ Phalaris," has been singing of ca and that a maid of an inn prisoned him with one' pons. Not that this was occafioned by any super- saying, “ If he is a prophet, he will discover it; if fluicy or cediousnels of their writings, or mutual he is an impoft. r, no matter what becomes of commendations; but it was found out by some “ him.” I hall have occasion for the atlistance of worthy patriots, to make the la'ours of the two all niy friends in this great work. I some posts doctors, as far as poslible, to become useful to the ago defired a friend to inquire wha: manuseripts public.

Sol Harding, a famous cook, may have left behind Indeed, cookery has an influence uron men's him at Oxford. He says, he finds among his exactions even in the highest stations of human life. ccu'ors several admirable bills of fare for Aristotle The great philosopher Pythagoras, in his “Golden Suppers, and entertainmerits of country strangers, “ Verses." fiews himself to be extremely nice in with certain prices, according to their several seaeating, when he makes it one of his chief prin- rons. He fays, fome pages have la ge black crosses ciples of morality to abstain from beans. l'he drawn over then); but for the greater part the noblest foundarins of honour, justice, and inte bo ks are fair and legible. grity, were found to lie hid in turnips; as appears Sir, I would heg you to search Cooks' hall, what in that great dictator, Cincinnatus, who went from manuscripts they may have in their archives. See the pl ugh to the command of the Roman army; what in Guildhall : what account of cufard in the and, having brought home victory, retired to his (word bearer's office : how many tun he, a coni. cottage ; for, when the Samnite ambassadors came mon cryer, or a common hunt may cat in their thither to him with a large bribe, and sound him life-time. But I transgress the bounds of a letter, dreling turnips for his repast, they immediately and have strayed from my subject, which should returned with this sentence, “ That it was impof- have been, to beg you to read the following lines, "ible to prevail upon him that could be con'ented when you are inclined to be must fa vourable to " with such a supper.” In short, there are no ho- your friend; for else they will never be able to norary appellations but what may be made use of endure your juit censure. I rely upon your goodto Cook; for I find throughout the whole race of nature; and I am Charlemaigne, that the great cook of the palace

Your most obliged, &ce was one of the prime ministers of late, and conductor of armies : so true is that muxim of Paulus Æmilius, after his glorions expedition into Greece,

LETTER VI. when he was to entertain the Roman people," that " there was equal skill required to bring an army

To Mr. " into the field, and to fee forth a magnificent en. " tertainment; fince the one was as far a, pofile

DEAR SIR, to annoy your enemy, and the other to pleafure I Have reflected upon the discourse I had with your friend." In short, as for all perfons that

you the other day, and, upon serious consideration, have not a due regard for the learned, induftrious, and that the true undertanding of the whole“ Art moral, u; righe, and warlike profesion of cookery, of Cookery" will be useful to all persons that premay they live as the arcient inhabitants of Puerie tend to the belles letires, and efecially to po«ts. Ventura, one of the Canary Islands, where, they

I do n t find it proceeds from any enmity of the being fo barbarous as to make the most contemptible cooks, but it is sather the fault of thuir matters, person to be their bulcher, they had likewile their

that pouts are not so well acquainted with good meat served up raw, because they hari no fire to

eating, as otherwile they might be, if oftener indress it; and I take this to be a condition bad

vited. However, eves in Mr. D'Urfey's presence, enough of all confcicnce!

this I would be bound to say, " That a good sinn As this sınall essay finds acceptance, I shall be

ner is brother to a good poem:"only it is someencouraged o pursue a great design ! have in thing more fubdancial; and, between two and hard, ot pubishing a Bibliotheca Culinaria, or three a clock, niore agreeable. the “Cook's Complete Li rary,” which shall begin

I have known a lupper make the most divertwith a trandlution, or at least an epirome, of Athe- | ing purt of a C me ty. Mr Betterton, in " The raus, whey treats of all thivgn belonging to a Ge

“ Libertine ," has fet very gravely with the leg cian feat. He fhad be published, with all his of a chicken; but I have seen Jucomo very merry, ccmments, useful grosses, and indexes, of a vast copi.

and eat very hcar:ily of peast and hutiered ogus, ournels, with cuts of the bofti og ladles, drippi.ge | under the table The Hoft, in " The Villain t," puns, and druding boxes, &c. la ely dug ip at Rome, who carries tables, fools, furniture, and provisi(15, out f an old fubierrakrar fkultery. I delign to have

all ab vihm, gives great content li ic fp.• all authors in all languages upon that subject;

tors, when, from the crown of his har, he produces therefore pray consult what ori nea! manukripis his cold cupon : fo Armarillis (or rathes Partheyou have I remember Erpenius, in his notes up

mope, as I take it) in " The Rehearíai.” with her en lo min's Fai18 (whom I take to be the fime

wine in her spear, and her py-in her helvet; and perto. with tip), gives us an admirable receipt the Cook that fbbers his heard with fuck-pollet, for making he fucir milk, that is, the bonny clabber, in “ The Man's the Matter," have, 11 my opiof the Arubirns. Ith uld be glad to know how Mihomet ufid to have linjeoulder of mutton dreiled.

• A Triced: hy !!omi Shidue.!, actel 1676.

+ Aires y T10:12. Piti, al. 1663 I have heard he was a gre i lover of that joint; t 4 C11cdy by stt Will:10 14 ve! Al, acc0 1061

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